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  1. 405th Southern Regiment Member Redshirt's Avatar
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    May 24, 2009, 12:25 PM - Tutorial: Make & Paint Your Own See-through Visor #1



    OVERVIEW

    This tutorial covers how to make a see-through reflective visor using a
    pair of outer visors from the US MC-2AP chemical defense mask. Try your
    local surplus store for availability. Regardless of whether you start
    with this item or not, the painting and finishing techniques are applicable to
    any hard plastic visor. The format of this tutorial will cover some of the background of
    the original project, very specific instructions on how I built and
    finished my visor, and finally, some lessons learned and some advanced
    techniques to take it to the next level as skills, time, and equipment
    allow.

    BACKGROUND

    The first thing to understand is how I came to the unique set of
    circumstances that drove this build. I was (still am) deployed to
    Southwest Asia on a one-year tour. I brought along a Microsoft
    Legendary Edition helmet and some basic (to me) hobby supplies with the
    idea of painting and weathering it to look like the in-game helmet. My
    how plans change. Once I'd learned that people had succeeded in making
    this prop wearable, I was hooked. The project started at the end of
    July, took on a life of its own, and ended the day before Halloween in
    not only a wearable helmet, but a full armor build from
    cardboard that is well-covered in an earlier thread.

    I won't address the disassembly and basic modifications to the Legendary
    Edition helmet as others have made their mark already in this endeavor.
    Suffice it to say that at the end of the conversion, you are left with a
    helmet that has either no visor, or a beautiful, but non-transparent,
    orange-gold visor. Unfortunately, while there are gold motorcycle
    visors, and a few other products available, there is little that
    captures the correct color of the Master Chief visor. Too stupid to
    settle, I decided to see what I could do myself. Living in a foreign
    desert with few resources (especially motorcycle visors) shaped my path.

    What I did have access to were chemical defense mask visors. Eyeing up
    the one I had in my possession, it looked like it would work. I needed
    ones I could actually cut up though. A quick trip to Supply gave me
    access to all the damaged and scratched visors we had slated for
    destruction. This gave me enough visors to experiment on with various
    finish techniques as well as what I needed to cut the final products.
    The right size of over visor for the Legendary Edition helmet is Medium,
    but Large will work as well. Knowing that the Legendary Edition helmet
    is small, I'd guess that size Large would be the best choice for most
    Pep and molded helmets.

    Anyway, enough yammering, time to start damaging things.


    MAKING A MK VI VISOR OUT OF THE OVER VISOR FROM THE MC-2AP CHEMICAL DEFENSE MASK



    MCU-2AP Chemical Defense Mask With Over Visor In Place


    Over Visor Removed


    As I mentioned earlier, the project requires two over visors. Use your
    nicest (scratch-free in the center of vision) visor as the main (back)
    visor. As you hold the uncut visor up inside your helmet, use a Sharpie
    (permanent marker) to mark where the helmet itself needs to be reprofiled
    (ground down or cut) to allow the visor to fit evenly across the top and
    bottom. Likely you will find that the curve of the visor leaves "air
    gaps" at the very sides (ear area). Also, the visor may not be big
    enough to cover the upper temple region. Addressing each of these items
    separately: The gap at the ear area is largely concealed by the black
    ear pieces. I would highly suggest leaving this gap as it is very hard
    to see and gives needed ventilation. No one on the site regularly
    admits it, but these helmets will fog easily as they don't lend
    themselves to a great deal of ventilation. As for the gap in the
    temple, we'll fix that later by adding additional pieces to fill this
    area and blend in the seams.

    The cutting of the plastic visor works best if you use a toothed Dremel
    attachment rather than a friction attachment, i.e., cutting wheel. You
    want to reduce the level of melting to the maximum extent possible to
    end up with as smooth and straight cuts as possible. The best way to do
    this is with a saw-toothed wheel that removes material (and sends it
    flying). This will make a hell of an unwelcome mess if not done in a
    shop. Please, please wear safety goggles. Often, the only way to cut
    straight is to have your eyes lined up with the rotational plane of your
    cutter. This is another reason to use a saw bit rather than a cutting
    wheel. Cutting wheels shatter frequently.


    Cutting Wheel--DANGEROUS AND WRONG!



    Saw Wheel--RIGHT!


    To make the pattern for the outer visor, simply lay your second chemical
    mask over visor on top of the Legendary Edition visor and trace the
    pattern with your permanent marker. Don't worry, we'll remove any
    traces later. The raised portion of the visor is beveled into the
    surface of the main visor. We will replicate that effect rather than
    have a hard edge around our outer visor. So, be sure to trace the
    pattern to reflect the base of the outer visor (wide part of the bevel)
    rather that the edges of the upper surface or you'll end up with too
    small of an outer visor. An alternative to the 'trace directly onto the
    plastic' method would be to put masking tape over the entire visor and
    trace the pattern on to the tape. The benefit of this would be in
    protecting the uncut areas of the visor from scratching during cutting.
    Please note: Create useful spare visor material by offsetting your
    pattern to the bottom of the over visor. You'll need some of the upper
    visor material to graft on to the temple areas later. Specific to the
    Legendary Edition helmet: After tracing, hold the clear visor up inside
    the helmet to make sure the two upper prongs will line up with the
    notches in the bill of the helmet. The act of tracing tends to widen
    the distance between the prongs so they don't line up with the notches
    in the helmet bill, resulting in poor fitting, and a requirement for
    additional alteration of the helmet.



    Ready For Marking--Note the Temple Areas Not Covered By Visor



    Where To Mark



    Marked and Ready To Cut


    To cut the outer visor, you may want to make a couple of passes to make
    the cuts all the way through. Sometimes it works out best to make a
    shallow cut initially, focusing on getting it straight, followed by a
    second (or third) pass to complete the cut. Try to cut with the chuck (bit holder)
    portion of the tool over areas you intend to discard. That way, if the
    spinning chuck contacts the visors surface, the inevitable gouge won't
    be on a piece you want to keep. Don't worry if the cuts aren't perfect
    so long as the basic results are straight. You'll be dressing the cuts
    into beveled edges with a file anyway.


    First Cut!



    Taking Shape


    Once all the major pieces are removed, the hard work begins, first with
    the hobby knife, followed by the needle files. Do all the cleanup you
    can with the knife. Next, take the needle file and make every edge
    beveled. Look at the Legendary Edition helmet for the effect you are
    trying to achieve. If you haven't used needle files like this before,
    you need to know a couple of things: Do not saw back and forth--you
    will get a bevel with choppy, uneven cuts. Only make back and forth
    passes where you have a specific high spot you are trying to level. For
    the bulk of your filing, make diagonal sweeps, removing material along
    several inches of an edge at a time. The minimum stroke should slide
    along at least three file widths to get an even finish. Use a wire
    brush to clean out the file regularly. One of the first things you'll
    discover is that you can't file a bevel edge into a corner without
    destroying the bevel for the opposite side. Just stop the bevel
    slightly short of the corner. You'll need to hand-carve the corner
    bevel with a hobby knife. Using a heavy duty hobby knife, whittle the
    corners into bevels, taking off only a small amount of material with
    each cut. Safety note: These can be hard cuts to make. There will be
    a temptation to make the cut by pulling the knife toward you or your
    other hand. I have the stitch work to prove that this is a bad idea.
    Getting the filing right will take a while and make your fingers sore,
    but the result is way cool.


    Needle Files



    Basic Saw Cut



    Rough Cut Bevel



    Trimming the Corners



    Bevel Finished


    Lay the outer visor over the main visor and determine where to cut the
    bottom of the main visor. You'll also need to fit the visor inside the
    helmet to figure where to make the upper cut. You can have excess
    material at the top, but not really along the bottom. Make the cuts to
    the main visor at this time.

    Now back to the main visor and the challenge of adding material to the
    temples. You will also be adding material to the outer visor as well.
    Taking material from the leftover pieces of visor, locate areas with the
    same general curvature of the piece you need to add on to. Lay the
    corner of the visor over this piece and trace the curvature of the edge,
    then draw out the rest of the extension you need. Repeat for all four
    add-on pieces. Cut them out, doing as careful of a job as possible
    along the curve were it will mate up with the main portion. Use a
    Dremel drum sander and/or needle file to make the curve mate as evenly
    as possible with the main piece. Carefully glue the pieces on with
    cyanoacrylate glue (Super/Crazy glue). The thick gap filling stuff is
    best. Don't get any excess on the front of the visor. It is fine to
    put a little extra on the back side. If you have any accelerator for
    the cyanoacrylate glue, now is a good time to use it so you don't have
    to stand all day holding the pieces together waiting for the glue to
    set. After the glue work is done, handle the pieces carefully as they
    will break easily.


    Marked For Cutting



    Extra Piece Glued To Outer Visor

    Now take modeler's putty and put a good fillet over the top (front) of
    the glue seams, being careful not to get it anywhere other than the area
    of the glue joint. You are doing this to hide the seam and the fact
    that the curvature of the two pieces don't match exactly. Let this dry
    24 hours. Time to wet sand. Wet sanding is a technique for flatting
    down and blending raised surfaces without gouging the material. You'll
    need some 800 and 1200 grit wet or dry sandpaper--the black/dark grey
    stuff. You'll also need a small block of wood and a bowl of warm water
    with just a drop or two of dish soap in it--no more. The water smoothes
    the cutting action of the paper by providing some lubrication. It also
    carries away the debris so it doesn't clog the sandpaper. The soap
    helps with both of these actions. With a section of the 800 grit
    wrapped around the block, dip it in the water and begin sanding the
    areas with the modeler's putty. Be sure to support the piece from
    behind or it will break. Your sanding must always be in short circles
    and should not be hitting and surface of the main visor more than about
    3/4 inch away from the edge of the putty. Keep dipping your block in
    the water frequently. Sand with the 800 grit until you can just barely feel
    the edges of the puttied areas with a fingernail. Switch to using the
    1200 grit and repeat the process until all the edges are blended in.
    You'll usually discover that you didn't get enough putty into one area
    or another, so don't be surprised if you have to do two or three rounds
    of puttying/sanding to get it right. Thoroughly wash and dry the parts
    because painting is next.


    PAINTING ANY VISOR REFLECTIVE ORANGE GOLD

    All right. For all of you who never had any intention of using a
    chemical defense visor in your helmet, but just wanted to know how to
    paint your own see-through visor, here is what you've been looking for.
    The first step is the reflective coating.

    The end result you need to achieve is a very fine, very even, and very
    thin coating of reflective metal on the outer surface of the visor.
    Everything you do here is driving toward that. Beg or borrow the best
    air brush you can. I did my first attempt with an old Testors brush
    with a leaking air valve that caused the paint to spatter. I borrowed a brush locally
    (apparently I'm not the only person that deploys with an airbrush) that
    turned out to be only slightly better. You really need top performance
    for your first job of applying the Testors Model Master Aluminum Plate
    Buffing Metalizer. Be careful not to purchase the non-buffing Aluminum
    Metalizer. You'll need some of the special paint thinner that Testors
    makes for their Metalizer line.



    Required Paints


    Here we go. With your visor and outer visor meticulously cleaned with
    alcohol or paint thinner, you're ready to begin. Just to be clear, the
    two visors are not joined at this time. They are both to be painted
    separately using the same process. Shake the Metalizer very well. You
    can't afford any clumping. Add some to your airbrush's reservoir and
    add the special thinner to reduce the original by about 1/4 to 1/3.
    Quick mix it inside the reservoir with a toothpick and you are ready to
    go. Crank up the pressure so you get really good atomization, and back
    off the needle to get good flow. You thinned the product so that even
    though you get good flow, you are not delivering a lot of pigment.


    Spray the metalizer from 8-12 inches away such that it hits the surface
    and dries almost instantly. You do not want the pigment to flow. Move
    with fairly fast strokes. You want to deliver lots of very thin coats
    over the entire surface, making your best attempt at even distribution.
    Periodically hold the visor up to the light and looking through from the
    back. Paint it just enough to look solid grey from the front, but be
    see-through from the back. This is easier than you think, but a failure
    to get even coats will result in "blind spots" that you can't see
    through in the finished visor. I can't emphasize enough to put on a
    thinner coat than you think you need. Just because you can see through
    it well in the daylight outside where you are painting it doesn't mean
    it will be see-through at a party, at night, or in a convention center.
    This is a lesson-learned that I will apply to version 3.0 if I make it.
    Do put a thicker coat over the puttied seams and the glued on portion.
    These areas will never be see-through and you do not want the putty to
    show through on the outside, so coat it well.

    Wait at least 15 minutes after painting to begin buffing. Use the
    softest all-cotton rag or towel you have and very gently rub the painted
    surface to bring out the luster. Be very patient. If you rub hard, the
    finish will come off. Remember, you painted a glossy smooth surface so
    adhesion of the paint is not strong. When you are satisfied that you
    have made a fair approximation of home-grown mirrored sunglasses, quit
    while you are ahead. These don't have to be super shiny--the in-game
    visor isn't.

    Now for the amber-orange tinting. You could also opt for blue, purple,
    or green variants as well. One bottle each of red and amber Tamiya
    clear acrylic should handle two attempts to paint your visors. Start
    with a 2 to 1 ratio of amber to red, but be prepared to add more red to
    get the right tone. Just keep doing all of your mixing in a small glass
    jar. Don't do any mixing in the airbrush reservoir. If the color isn't
    right, just dump the reservoir contents back into the jar and adjust the
    color ratio. That way you will have a big batch of the right color to
    do both visors (and any redos). These need to be thinned substantially
    because you do want this coat of paint to flow out (but not run). Being
    acrylics, they can be thinned with water (not recommended). I used
    rubbing alcohol--the good stuff at better than 80% alcohol and a drop of
    dish soap to help the flow once applied. Experiment with your thinner ratio to find
    the right volume that will pass though the airbrush well, but not pool
    and run off the visor surface.

    Airbrush the color coat a little closer to the surface than you did the
    Metalizer. You do want this to go on 'wet' so that it dries with an
    even glossy surface. Again, the challenge is to get an even coating.
    Do not be terribly concerned if the finish has an orange peel texture to
    it or that your visor is no longer very see-through. Let this layer dry
    very thoroughly. All of the water and alcohol need to evaporate to
    reduce the risk of any unanticipated reactions between the color coat and the final gloss
    coat (usually manifested by wrinkling).


    Airbrushing the Amber-Orange Coat


    For the final gloss coat, buy the best clear gloss aerosol that you can
    find. Go to an automotive paint shop if you can. By that, I don't mean
    Autozone, Pep Boys or Halfords (for you UK guys), but a Dupont, PPG, or
    similar place specializing in auto body supplies. If you are building a
    costume out of any of the popular materials, these guys should already be
    your friends as they are likely the best suppliers of resin, Bondo, and
    every tool needed to work them. Anyway, back to the gloss coat. Wipe
    off the visor surface and shake your can of clear for several minutes.
    Try to paint in 70 degrees or warmer temperatures to help the gloss
    flow. Initially get one thin coat and let it dry for at least a half
    hour. This coats the amber, but doesn't stay wet long enough to
    dissolve any part of it. This will be your barrier for the second 'wet'
    coat. The second coat needs to be pretty heavy, but sprayed from enough
    distance that the blast from the can doesn't disturb the surface. Set
    the visor down with the painted surface up and let it dry in a dust-free area for two days if
    you can.


    My First Attempt (1.0) Next To the Legendary Edition Visor--Version 2.0 Was Much More Even, Orange, Bright, and Smooth. You Can Clearly See the 'Orange Peel' Effect On This Rejected Visor


    With some luck, you have two beautiful visor pieces. Perhaps they no
    longer look as see-through as you hoped. Much of this problem is caused
    by stray paint attaching to the inside of the visor during painting.
    Use mild paint thinner (not lacquer thinner) to clean the inside of both
    pieces, being careful not to let any thinner get on the glossy outer surface.
    Be very careful with those extra pieces you glued on. This is your
    last, best chance to break them off and have to start over. It doesn't
    take much to join the visor pieces together. I used two small squares
    of double sided cellophane tape to join mine. The act of gluing the
    assembly into the helmet will permanently lock them together. Be very
    careful not to slide the pieces against each other or scrape them
    against anything as you position them inside the helmet. I recommend
    using a hot glue gun to glue the visor inside the helmet. Do not use
    cyanoacrylate glue as it causes permanent fogging of the clear surfaces
    surrounding the glue.


    Done!


    Finished Helmet With Painted Home Made Visor



    How Well Can You See Through It? Better Than This. This Is A View of My Dormitory Through My Rejected First Attempt (Bad Airbrush). Warning--All Girls May Seem Pretty When Viewed Through This Visor!



    ADVANCED TECHNIQUES AND POSSIBLE ALTERNATIVES:

    That turned out great, but I couldn't help but think of ways it could
    have been better if I'd had access to my full shop, a bigger budget, or
    hind sight. Here are my untried ideas, feel free to suggest your own
    and I'll try to assess their viability:

    Even at its best, a spray can gloss coat will not be glass smooth. This
    condition is known in automotive circles as 'orange peel'. All modern
    cars have it. Go look, I'll wait here while you do. Show cars don't.
    I'll tell you how. Wet sanding and polishing. Although you can do this
    with the spray can gloss, your chances of success are low because the
    material is just too soft to bring back to a full gloss after disturbing
    (sanding) its surface. If you have the budget and access to an
    automotive spray gun, coat the visor in several coats of catalyzed clear
    coat instead of aerosol clear gloss. Even with no further action, you
    will get a smoother, more resilient clear coat. After it is fully
    cured, wet sand the surface with 1200 grit, followed by 2000 grit paper
    on your block. Don't sand deep, just enough until there are no glossy
    low spots. After the 1200, follow with the 2000 grit to take out the
    deeper scratches left by the 1200 grit. Next, using fine polish, bring the
    surface back up to glass smooth. You may try an orbital polisher, but
    your risk of breaking off the glued-on pieces, flinging the visor
    against the wall, or tearing off your finger nails is extreme. To keep
    the risk, rewards, and time spent in perspective, I would consider only
    wet sanding and polishing the center (inside the octagon) of the visor.


    Another technique would be to spray the metalizer on the inside of the
    visor and not worry about buffing it. Just follow with the specified
    orange coat and clear coat on the outside. The risk here is that any
    rub or handling of the inside of the visor will have a strong chance of
    damaging this coating--it's that fragile. You could clear coat it, but
    you would have two surfaces with orange peel, resulting in very poor
    visual clarity.


    CLOSING THOUGHTS:

    This visor project was conceived to work with a Microsoft Legendary
    Edition helmet and was cut to accommodate being able to drink from a
    bottle while wearing the helmet. If you have interest in that feature
    or the other mods I made to that helmet, visit my Work In Review (WIR)
    thread in the Pep and Cardboard forum. Overall, the chemical defense
    visor has potential use either as a whole, or re-sectioned for use in several
    Halo derivative helmets. The Metalizing/painting technique will work
    equally well with vacu-formed visors and energy sword projects as well.
    Likewise, any Elite-based Covenant weapon requires a translucent purple
    surface. This is how I would achieve that, using clear red and blue
    over Metalizer to make translucent purple. If you have any questions,
    just ask here, or, if you are reading this long after the thread is
    dead, just PM me. Thanks for looking.

    Redshirt


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  3. Member Since
    Apr 2007
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    May 24, 2009, 12:36 PM - #2

    That's just perfect.

    Man, I hope you get stickied for this, you deserve it.
  4. Member Since
    Mar 2009
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    May 24, 2009, 12:40 PM - #3

    nice tut. i was going to use that same paint but the hobby store here had to order it so i went with the translucent blue for mine. i think its alittle harder to see through than yours but it will do the trick
  5. Member Since
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    233
    May 24, 2009, 12:51 PM - #4

    I agree with last Spartan. Just astouding!

    I think you are the first person to do this method - hell, first person to make their own good visor!

  6. Shade88's Avatar
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    May 24, 2009, 1:21 PM - #5

    I likie.
  7. Enrisan's Avatar
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    May 24, 2009, 2:36 PM - #6

    I think you just figured out how to make a good visor for the EVA.
    nice job!
  8. Member Since
    Mar 2009
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    339
    May 24, 2009, 2:51 PM - #7

    Awesome work. I was figuring on trying the airbrush for that effect. This is just beautiful. I second the request to sticky, this is amazingly helpful.

    Edit: Also, I don't want to hijack the thread but thought I should throw this in there. If you can't find that gas mask or a visor for it, this visor should be a pretty good substitute.
  9. Loess's Avatar
    Member Since
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    May 24, 2009, 3:26 PM - #8

    Epic paint skills!
    Definatly needs to be stickified.
  10. Member Since
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    May 24, 2009, 6:03 PM - #9

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Enrisan @ May 24 2009, 11:36 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I think you just figured out how to make a good visor for the EVA.
    nice job!</div>


    [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] I was thinking that to you could melt 2 of them together or make a security visor perfect .
  11. Member Since
    Aug 2007
    Messages
    206
    May 24, 2009, 6:41 PM - #10

    Alternatively for the reflectivity, if you don't want to go through the hassle of dealing with the paint. You could always vacuum form a visor out of this stuff

    http://www.mirropane.com/

    then just color over it with a gold transparent paint
  12. Member Since
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    May 24, 2009, 7:09 PM - #11

    All I can say is.. Just awesome
  13. 405th Midwest Regiment Member L3X BLU3R1V3R's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jun 2008
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    357
    May 24, 2009, 8:23 PM - #12

    thanks alot red, i can finally get to making a better vidor for my cqb!!!
  14. {Cortana's Avatar
    Member Since
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    May 24, 2009, 10:28 PM - #13

    I also throw in my vote to have this stickied. This is incredibly helpful! You really thought out of the box with this idea, it works, but it it's not ridiculously complicated, and the finished result is just astounding.
  15. Member Since
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    May 25, 2009, 11:36 AM - #14

    <span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%">Worthy.</span>
  16. New Recruit
    Member Since
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    May 25, 2009, 11:48 AM - #15

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Keegan @ May 25 2009, 04:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'> <span style="font-size:14pt;line-height:100%">Worthy.</span></div>

    I vote sticky also.
  17. New Recruit Dark's Avatar
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    May 25, 2009, 1:05 PM - #16

    Awesome tutorial.
  18. Member Since
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    May 26, 2009, 4:59 PM - #17

    Really, incredibly well done. I will definitely be using this as a reference once I start pumping out some vacuum-formed visors.
  19. {Cortana's Avatar
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    May 26, 2009, 10:50 PM - #18

    I do have one suggestion. Look at MC's visor; it has ALOT of knicks, scratches and battle damage. If you wanted to go for the "worn" look, you could chip away with something like an ice pick or a screw and/or nail, maybe even rough up some of the sides with a bit of course sandpaper.

    Just a thought...
  20. Member Since
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    May 26, 2009, 10:57 PM - #19

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE({Cortana @ May 26 2009, 09:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I do have one suggestion. Look at MC's visor; it has ALOT of knicks, scratches and battle damage. If you wanted to go for the "worn" look, you could chip away with something like an ice pick or a screw and/or nail, maybe even rough up some of the sides with a bit of course sandpaper.

    Just a thought... </div>

    Or blast it with salt at close range. Because, you know, shotguns are fun.
  21. 405th Southern Regiment Member Redshirt's Avatar
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    May 27, 2009, 2:53 AM - #20

    You are quite correct. If you look at the inside edges of my outer visor, you'll see some gouging. I chose not to clean that up during finishing for the very reason you mention. Even so, you're right, my visor looks much healthier than the rest of the helmet. If I was going for a more abused look, I would suggest gouging the visor (outside the center of vision) before applying the Metalizer. The end result would gouges, but with the Metalized finish intact rather than a clear spot that would result if you did the damage after finishing. his would also be consistent with the fact that the MC's vistor looks more like solid metal than a see-through visor. A further degree of weathering would be to mud spatter the visor with thinned paint. I would do this by spraying an oval in the center of vision with a light coat of WD-40 just prior to spattering on the "mud". The WD-40 will easily clean up with glass cleaner, taking only the mud that would have blocked your vision with it. The fuzzy edges of the WD-40 path will allow the mud spatters that remain to have a gradient, rather than a hard edge like you'd get if you masked the center of vision to protect it.

    My thoughts.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE({Cortana @ May 27 2009, 05:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I do have one suggestion. Look at MC's visor; it has ALOT of knicks, scratches and battle damage. If you wanted to go for the "worn" look, you could chip away with something like an ice pick or a screw and/or nail, maybe even rough up some of the sides with a bit of course sandpaper.

    Just a thought... </div>
  22. {Cortana's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2008
    Messages
    388
    May 27, 2009, 5:02 AM - #21

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Malechei @ May 26 2009, 09:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Or blast it with salt at close range. Because, you know, shotguns are fun.</div>
    [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] Oh yes, shotguns are my fav.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Redshirt @ May 27 2009, 01:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>You are quite correct. If you look at the inside edges of my outer visor, you'll see some gouging. I chose not to clean that up during finishing for the very reason you mention. Even so, you're right, my visor looks much healthier than the rest of the helmet. If I was going for a more abused look, I would suggest gouging the visor (outside the center of vision) before applying the Metalizer. The end result would gouges, but with the Metalized finish intact rather than a clear spot that would result if you did the damage after finishing. his would also be consistent with the fact that the MC's vistor looks more like solid metal than a see-through visor. A further degree of weathering would be to mud spatter the visor with thinned paint. I would do this by spraying an oval in the center of vision with a light coat of WD-40 just prior to spattering on the "mud". The WD-40 will easily clean up with glass cleaner, taking only the mud that would have blocked your vision with it. The fuzzy edges of the WD-40 path will allow the mud spatters that remain to have a gradient, rather than a hard edge like you'd get if you masked the center of vision to protect it.

    My thoughts.</div>

    That's actually some very good points, I kinda forgot about the fact that the chips and gouges would make a clear spot in the visor. And I really like that idea for the mud splatter.
  23. Member Since
    Mar 2009
    Messages
    234
    May 27, 2009, 3:20 PM - #22

    I vote for sticky, but the paint thing seems pretty complicated at first...

    so you wanna metalize, then orange....

    so it isn't so complicated afterall, you just have to be patient and carefull when spraypainting.

    Right? ^^
  24. 405th Southern Regiment Member Redshirt's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2008
    Messages
    452
    May 28, 2009, 1:13 AM - #23

    That's really it. So long as your airbrush atomizes well, the Metalizer is hard to screw up except by overdoing it. To much equals a visor you can't see through. The Metal coat is fragile until you get it covered. The trick to the color coat is evenness more than smoothness. The clearcoat is all about the smoothness. That is the layer that most affects how clear your vision is. Just make sure the visor is clean and that the temperature of the air and the clear coat can are warm enough to get the coating to flow out smoothly. If you screw it up, take it all off with paint thinner and only lose 1 to two days starting over.

    That reminds me, if you do have to start over, be careful with the paint thinner in the areas where you used modeler's putty to join in the extra pieces. The thiner will dissolve your smoothly sanded surface, causing additional time to restore it.

    Redshirt

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chip475 @ May 27 2009, 10:20 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I vote for sticky, but the paint thing seems pretty complicated at first...

    so you wanna metalize, then orange....

    so it isn't so complicated afterall, you just have to be patient and carefull when spraypainting.

    Right? ^^</div>
  25. New Recruit
    Member Since
    Feb 2008
    Messages
    23
    Jun 1, 2009, 10:54 PM - #24

    Will any clear or translucent paint do? If not, could you explain why?
  26. 405th Southern Regiment Member Redshirt's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2008
    Messages
    452
    Jun 2, 2009, 6:30 AM - #25

    I suspect that other brands of clear paint (there aren't many) will work fine. Translucent paint will not be see through, but would make a cloudy visor. The real trick is to test compatability between all of your paints before starting. The nice thing about the Tamiya clear paints is that they are acrylic, so they have little chance of disturbing (disolving or wrinkling) the Metalizer (an oil-based enamel) underneath. Your biggest risk is in the clear coat causing trouble with your color coat. If it causes problems, just change brands. It's much easier to find different brands and formulations of clear coat than it is to find the clear red and amber paints. The risk of interaction between dissimilar paints is further mitigated by starting with a very thin coat or two of the gloss and letting those dry before laying on the heavy gloss coat. The thin coats aren't wet for long enough to dissolve the lower layers. The thin coats then act as a barrier when the really thick coat goes on.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(knightwing316 @ Jun 2 2009, 05:54 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Will any clear or translucent paint do? If not, could you explain why?</div>

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