i tried plaster gause and it would work, however because the card gets very wet quickly you would need to make it water proof first, i found a good site for resin pm me for details

plaster might work as a fiberglass substitute but not for detailing with the gauze it gets bulky. and im pretty sure plaster is brittle and very heavy.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Since Bondo is an American product, what&#39;s a good, viable UK-available substitute? And can I get it from B&Q?</div>
Hey, Im in New Zealand and we have a lot of the same and similar brands as you guys, bondo (bog) is just plain old plastic putty, builders filler or auto body filler (its a ceramic and styrene addition cured plastic) mixture. Its all the exact same stuff with different labels on the tin, just look for a tin that has "warning contains styrene" on it and you&#39;re pretty much on the right track, you can get specialist types for auto body work that have differing qualities, but you dont really need them and they cost more. I buy it in 3.5 litre tins (CRC brand) for about 60NZD which is about 20 sterling i think. you&#39;ll also need a good blade putty for finishing the surface, before you use your filler primer to get the last of the fine dents out.
In my opinion plaster would be too brittle, even proper casting/masonry stones (hydrocal, ultrcal 30 etc) wont be strong enough at the thickness you&#39;re wanting, avoid plaster.
For your visor, the scout has a pretty simple visor shape so, you could take the lazy way out and just use a flat sheet of lexan with some gold mirror tint on it, or you could vac form one yourself to include the details and compound curve, vacforming such a small part (the scout visor is smaller than an A4 sheet) would be a pretty simple affair with a block or two of dried flower floral foam and more bondo. you can build a small vac table for about 5 dollars, and then you could sell copies to noobs. For sealing the final coat it all depends on what type of look you&#39;re going for, personally I&#39;d use a plain matte clear coat. Make sure you seal it well though, you dont want to get moisture under your bog, it can expand and crack.

FS reporting for duity. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Primal Weyland @ Dec 20 2007, 02:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Questions are as follows:<ul>[*]Since Bondo is an American product, what&#39;s a good, viable UK-available substitute? And can I get it from B&Q?[/list]</div>over here we call it isopon so i presume its the same there. if anyone would have it it would be B&Q. ask for car body filler. smells funky, like realy realy powerful perment marker solvent. (if you leave the tin open when working in a small space you will get dizzy)
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'><ul>[*]Would using plaster gauze (the same stuff a cast for a broken bone is set in) work fine for reinforcement? Or would it be viable as a complete replacement for Bondo/resin/fibreglass?[/list]</div>honestly, no. plaster bandage is fine for mask making and stuff but in the long term what happens is it gets lightly knocked over and over at the corners and the plaster there turns to dust (even under paint) and eventualy it turns into something like a lumpy cloth. also its quite heavy compared to the support it gives. you could crumble three layers in your hand quite easly.

having said that i wouldnt rule it out. if you were planning on making it as a buck (using it to make a mold) im sure it would work grand. the only reservation i would have is that the gause tends to go frizzy and take little chunks of plater with it when you pull it outa the way.<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'><ul>[*]What would be recommended as a sealant after the spraypainting stage?[/list]</div>ide go for a matte clear coat. not sure of the propper name but again B&Q would be the place to go.<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'><ul>[*]Any decent places other than the Almighty eBay for visors and the like? And what visors would be advisable?[/list]</div>yea, most moterbike places have em or will order them in but ide say ebay would be the cheapest place for em. then again the scout visor is quite thin (top to bottom) so ide say it would be easier to do the gold window film on some thick acitate or the like.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NZ-TK @ Dec 20 2007, 12:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Hey, Im in New Zealand and we have a lot of the same and similar brands as you guys, bondo (bog) is just plain old plastic putty, builders filler or auto body filler (its a ceramic and styrene addition cured plastic) mixture. Its all the exact same stuff with different labels on the tin, just look for a tin that has "warning contains styrene" on it and you&#39;re pretty much on the right track, you can get specialist types for auto body work that have differing qualities, but you dont really need them and they cost more. I buy it in 3.5 litre tins (CRC brand) for about 60NZD which is about 20 sterling i think. you&#39;ll also need a good blade putty for finishing the surface, before you use your filler primer to get the last of the fine dents out.
In my opinion plaster would be too brittle, even proper casting/masonry stones (hydrocal, ultrcal 30 etc) wont be strong enough at the thickness you&#39;re wanting, avoid plaster.
For your visor, the scout has a pretty simple visor shape so, you could take the lazy way out and just use a flat sheet of lexan with some gold mirror tint on it, or you could vac form one yourself to include the details and compound curve, vacforming such a small part (the scout visor is smaller than an A4 sheet) would be a pretty simple affair with a block or two of dried flower floral foam and more bondo. you can build a small vac table for about 5 dollars, and then you could sell copies to noobs. For sealing the final coat it all depends on what type of look you&#39;re going for, personally I&#39;d use a plain matte clear coat. Make sure you seal it well though, you dont want to get moisture under your bog, it can expand and crack.</div>

I... THINK I understood that...

I do apologise if I appear a little dim on this matter, but I have absolutely no idea of what it is I&#39;ll need or where to go for it. A lot of this is going to have to be explained to me quite patiently, because I&#39;ve never done this before and I&#39;m liable to go wrong somewhere. The tutorials I&#39;ve read aren&#39;t exactly very specific on these matters, and this is what&#39;s causing me problems...

for any uk based people found a great supplier for fiberglass and resin http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/store/

I love you. Any ideas or specific filler products?

nope, but i&#39;m gonna call them to find out what products would suit best.

will keep you posted as to any progress

Alreet. Thanks, amigo.

I will probably get my Resin and Fiberglass from Halfords:
Resin
Fiberglass Mat

I might try using this as a filler and see how it turns out although if you put filler into the Halfords search you can see that they have some alternatives.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Primal Weyland @ Jan 12 2008, 02:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I love you. Any ideas or specific filler products?</div>

Go down to any auto garage/or body repair garage, theyl have it there, its in a balck tin and usualy says somthing like P340 instead of bondo, or if you have a Screwfix catalouge they have real cheap fiberglas and resin, and filler in there!

after speaking to East Coast Fibreglass Supplies i was recomended the following

[attachment=2572:filler.jpg]
filler (£3.24) there are 2 size tins a 250ml tin and a 3.5lt tin

[attachment=2571:synolite_1kilo.JPG]
resin includes catalyst (£5.32)

check website for required quantities

Cool... and thanks a lot. I can use this information.

oh and if you go to the range (its like a big um shop) they sell body filler for like £1.95 a tub