Fiberglass

[samuel murray]

I just finished (Well sort of) fiber glassing my Iron Man helmet. But I ran into 2 problems, first on was that I accidentally mixed up too much resin so half of it dried before I got to use it, I know, very funny. Secondly, because I didn't fiberglass the whole helmet, I got about 3/4 of the way though it and it has sort of dipped when drying causing one side to be a bit wider than the other. I was wondering if there is some way to stretch the fiberglass so that it can be a symertrical helmet. Thanks for your input guys.

 

[ACDCrockr209]

You can't really stretch fiberglass. If you do, it'll break.



The only thing to do now is just add support struts the helmet can be a bit more symmetrical.



-Pony

 

[samuel murray]

Support struts? What are they? Have to got a link to a tutorial or anything?

 

[kupokitty]

They're just long pieces of cardstock or whatever that hold up the insides of things. You could use balsa wood, pencils, etc.

 

[samuel murray]

And then when I have made it symetrical I will be able to make a mould?

 

[kupokitty]

I wouldn't mold it right away. Try detailing with bondo first.

 

[samuel murray]

Oh yeah, I was just checking if it would be able to support it during making the mould

 

[UNSC Leatherneck]

Use smaller batches of resin when working. Unfortunately, the polyester resin used to fiberglass is a thermoset resin. Once cured, it is rigid and applying heat will not let you reshape it. Your best bet is to try and fix the problem after you finish with the fiberglass and resin using bondo. Alternatively, you could just start over again and treat this as a learning experience. Keep in mind that making a mold of the helmet and pulling casts from the mold is not the only way to do things. It can get quite expensive doing it that way. Many members have helmets that are pep only. If you must mold and cast helmets, might I recommend considering latex as a molding agent. It takes more time and effort, but it is dirt cheap compared to the silicone molding compounds.

 

[samuel murray]

I was thinking that I could just try and make sort of a war torn iron man helmet and then start again on an ordinary helmet

 

[Blackwatch]

I will throw in what I know:

I have made a lot of molds over the years and heat generated during the mold set-up can possibly warp or deform the oringal part. I try to fill the interior with sand if I can to keep a part solid, if it requires it.



On using latex, modelers are reporting that if you lay on two layers of latex, say Woodland Scenics latex, and allow to cure, then add a layer of guaze bandage or even newspaper (but the guaze works better due to its porisity) soaked in latex. Then add two more layers of latex. You can keep this up to the point that you feel that the mold is solid. The mold will also last longer and allow you to make multiple pulls from it. If it is sturdy enough it should support rotocasting.