Halo 3 Marine Helmet.

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DeathOfBlades

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I am almost done peping my helmet but I do have plenty of questions. I am using Vrogys helmet so yeah. Okay so when you notice Vrogys helmet it has two pep pieces going through the face area. People have told me you don't glue that piece while others say it is there to keep the helmet in the correct proportion and told me to cut it off after I have fiber glassed and resined it. Also, what is prefered? Fiberglassing first? Or Resining first. Thanks!
 
kolinrulz said:
pics or it didn't happen



I grow tired of this expression...





Anyways, photos would help but I think I know what you're talking about. You mean those support struts in the front, where your face is and underneath in the neck area?

If so, yes glue them in before you get much further and cut it out after you finish fiberglassing. Also resin before you fiberglass, that way the resin hardens the pepakura armature so it doesn't collapse or warp under the weight of the fiberglass.
 
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i agree with Belakor, everyone needs to lay of the post that just says "pics or it didnt hapeen". this is said so much, and is getting very annoying... maybe start with "please do not post a wip thread without pictures" and then answer any questions they might have, or advise them to PM a mod and lock the thread until they are able to get Pics so they dont have 20 members saying "pics or it didnt happen"



on topic: belakor is again right, you want to add in the supports while you are hardening the helmet... Some of them are easy to work around while glassing, but sometimes you just have to get them out of there before you can. What i like to do is 2 coats of resin on the outside 1 coat on the inside, remove any of the supports that are going to get in my way, fiberglass the inside, cut out the rest of the supports and give it another layer of glass, and one more coat of resin on the inside to get it all nice and smooth.



this method make a nice strong helmet, and keeps it in good shape while hardening.
 
DreadMullet said:
i agree with Belakor, everyone needs to lay of the post that just says "pics or it didnt hapeen". this is said so much, and is getting very annoying... maybe start with "please do not post a wip thread without pictures" and then answer any questions they might have, or advise them to PM a mod and lock the thread until they are able to get Pics so they dont have 20 members saying "pics or it didnt happen"



on topic: belakor is again right, you want to add in the supports while you are hardening the helmet... Some of them are easy to work around while glassing, but sometimes you just have to get them out of there before you can. What i like to do is 2 coats of resin on the outside 1 coat on the inside, remove any of the supports that are going to get in my way, fiberglass the inside, cut out the rest of the supports and give it another layer of glass, and one more coat of resin on the inside to get it all nice and smooth.



this method make a nice strong helmet, and keeps it in good shape while hardening.



@ BELAKOR: Hence the name "Noob Forum". That is why we learn. I'll put pics up or better yet would a link work? http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index. And what Belakor said just answered my entire question. BTW I love your Recon peps.



@ DreadMullet: Won't adding that much resin and fiberglass basically cover up the detail of the helmet? If not then will the extra toughness make it Airsoft proof ;D?
 
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DeathOfBlades said:
Won't adding that much resin and fiberglass basically cover up the detail of the helmet? If not then will the extra toughness make it Airsoft proof ;D?



Thin layers of resin go on the outside, i usually use around 2 or 3 light to medium coats to make sure the pep is supported, the resin coats shouldnt remove any detail on the outside as long as you keep them reasonably thin.



The fiberglass goes on the inside of the helmet where it wont erase any detail. while no one sees the inside because thats where your head goes, i would still recommend keeping it reasonably neat and clean, sharp and pointy pieces of fiberglass do not make your scalp happy....trust me lol



also,



We highly recommend not using the armor you build for paintball or airsoft. The reason why is the safety requirements that have to be met and so on and so forth. It is also impractical because it limits your range of movement, giving your opponents an advantage(unless your playing a halo themed game)



with the obligatory warning out of the way, i must say that i was curious today and thought i would test to see how many layers of fiberglass it would take to stop a PAINTBALL without taking damage.



The result was a strip of fiberglass that was at least 6 layers thick. note: the fiberglass i used was the fiberglass cloth(the woven, not the short strands) so the added flex you get from that might have helped.

The fiberglass took around 60 paintballs POINTBLANK (the muzzle was about half an inch from the fiberglass) at 300 FPS from my Spyder MR-1 Marker without any damage, it was kinda messy though....



as i stated, this was only for paintballs, airsoft would most likely require more due to the smaller projectile that is solid will add a more concentrated application or force to a smaller area, also paintballs are ment to bust, airsoft BBs are not.



I AM NOT SAYING THIS IS OKAY. im just saying that if you wanted to, it would take a lot of fiberglass and sufficient testing before i would even remotely trust it.
 
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Syphon said:
Thin layers of resin go on the outside, i usually use around 2 or 3 light to medium coats to make sure the pep is supported, the resin coats shouldnt remove any detail on the outside as long as you keep them reasonably thin.



The fiberglass goes on the inside of the helmet where it wont erase any detail. while no one sees the inside because thats where your head goes, i would still recommend keeping it reasonably neat and clean, sharp and pointy pieces of fiberglass do not make your scalp happy....trust me lol



also,



We highly recommend not using the armor you build for paintball or airsoft. The reason why is the safety requirements that have to be met and so on and so forth. It is also impractical because it limits your range of movement, giving your opponents an advantage(unless your playing a halo themed game)



with the obligatory warning out of the way, i must say that i was curious today and thought i would test to see how many layers of fiberglass it would take to stop a PAINTBALL without taking damage.



The result was a strip of fiberglass that was at least 6 layers thick. note: the fiberglass i used was the fiberglass cloth(the woven, not the short strands) so the added flex you get from that might have helped.

The fiberglass took around 60 paintballs POINTBLANK (the muzzle was about half an inch from the fiberglass) at 300 FPS from my Spyder MR-1 Marker without any damage, it was kinda messy though....



as i stated, this was only for paintballs, airsoft would most likely require more due to the smaller projectile that is solid will add a more concentrated application or force to a smaller area, also paintballs are ment to bust, airsoft BBs are not.



I AM NOT SAYING THIS IS OKAY. im just saying that if you wanted to, it would take a lot of fiberglass and sufficient testing before i would even remotely trust it.



Hmm. Also For the ODST helmets. I've seen people with a nice awesome looking bent visor shape. How did people do that? My theory was they vacuum sealed a heated motorcycle helmet onto the visor pep part of the helmet they sanded down and bondoed.
 
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DeathOfBlades said:
Hmm. Also For the ODST helmets. I've seen people with a nice awesome looking bent visor shape. How did people do that? My theory was they vacuum sealed a heated motorcycle helmet onto the visor pep part of the helmet they sanded down and bondoed.



This topic (Link) has some good photos and info on how Rube created his ODST visors, that might explain the process a little more :)
 
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Belakor said:
This topic (Link) has some good photos and info on how Rube created his ODST visors, that might explain the process a little more :)



Oh wow. So I was right! But He was very creative of making his on Vacuum sealer. Which vacuum did he use? I have a Kirby Year 2000 and I want to know if that will do just fine.
 
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