Thanks ! The rivets were heat stamped with a bit that I have in a wood burning kit. I know they're not game accurate but I just thought it needed a little something extra. I plan to paint and do the rivets on the rest of the pieces at some point. Adding the weathering and such seems to hide a lot of the imperfections, and I have a lot of imperfections lol. Hopefully grinding this out will get me going again. I've kind of slowed down to a crawl lately with everything else I've got going on.Its all good. Once you open it up fully it rights itself. I know how you feel about progress......it feels like forever till the next piece is finished.......Like a go-cart in an Indy race.......I love the detail that you did put in to the cod piece. The shelf liner that's glued on the inner part and goes over the lip...like that look. Now the "rivets". How did you do these? Heat stamped? They look too uniform and exact to be done individually by hand. Great job!!! Fantastic!!!
Thanks coolrextreme.This looks great! The details are amazing!
And you are not the only one with the sideways picture problem :I
I use hot glue, because it's fairly inexpensive, and it holds foam together reasonably well. The only issues I have with hot glue is the fact that it has a tendency to pull apart if it hasn't completely cooled yet, and the amount of wastage (glue strings + gun drippage).So I have a question for you fellow foamers. What are you using for adhesive? I've been using hot glue with guess id call it "ok" results.
For me, at least, I find that the best solution is to carefully cut off any excess glue with a very sharp knife after the glue has cooled and solidified. But it likely varies from person to person.I also have to clean all the excess off from my seams and it's near impossible to get it all off.
Thanks coolrextreme.
So I have a question for you fellow foamers. What are you using for adhesive? I've been using hot glue with guess id call it "ok" results. It's messy and I have to use a large amount for it to hold well. I also have to clean all the excess off from my seams and it's near impossible to get it all off. I have tried several contact adhesives and they didn't work well. I have yet to try barge cement as its quite pricey and I can't find it locally. Anyone using barge cement or have any experience with it? I'm thinking I trying it I know couple of the youtube guys use it and make it looks easy.
Ok I will keep these in mind. I am not a student so I think that I'm going to try playing around with some free software. I still need to figure out a program I can just slice a model too. Like I have said I'm not really sure what I am doing. I'm just making it up as I go along. Plus this is a very basic printer I have no control over temps or anything like that. I just pick the material to use and it does the rest. I'll post pics of the one I have printing now. I did the first one as a 220 micron and as little material as possible for the fastest time. It was getting late and I didn't want to leave it going all night still took 3hrs. One I have on there now is a 70 micron print and some more strength so we'll see the comparison. 7hr print for a hand plate lolYes!! you have come to the dark side!!
now, I'll tell you first hand it's more fun to model, then print a prop of your own design.
I have modeled several props, and after printing, you know how every single detail got on that prop.
for a starter in the world of 3D modeling, I'd suggest fusion 360. it's a pretty intuitive software, and it has some EXCELENT tutorials on how to use fusion online. the only hiccup is that you have to be a student in order to get it free.
otherwise, it's 30 bucks a month. if you're not a student, I'd suggest using something else until you learn how to use 3d modeling software. then, switch to fusion if you're comfortable with paying that. I'm a student, so I get it free.
I actually still use fusion for all my props. I own SolidWorks, but I'm not a huge fan. there are strengths and weaknesses, I guess. another good software is inventor. or, so I've heard. I'm not sure about pricing, though. you have to get a quote.
best of luck!
Alright thanks for for the suggestions. Yes simple is good at this point. Ya like I said this printer is very basic not much I can really do for tuning. I have 70 and 220 microns (whatever units those are) for my options in print quality. So we'll see how this one turns out it'll be as good as this little printer can do. But your software suggestions should help, I appreciate it.7 hours? that's not enough! I print small parts at 0.1-0.05mm! 16 hours, much nicer results! (i'm just teasing) You will get very much used to long prints. my shin armor on my printbed right now is in 3 pieces, each taking about 24 hours. be patient with your printer, it will take time to get nice results. once you tune your printer, you'll have a lot of pretty-looking plastic parts that your printer is spitting out.
for slicing models, I would use Autodesk NetFabb Basic. It's fast, it's easy, it's pretty intuitive. it's free! Basic version doesn't have a whole lot of features, so If you want more features, spend an extra 20 bucks for something nice. you will use it a lot!
if you want a super simple learning software, 123D MAKE is a SUPER basic software. zero cost, too. it's a good learning program. not much to it, not many features.
notice how all the programs I suggest are Autodesk? they are the best!
hope this will steer you in the right direction!