Painting Tutorial / Procedures

[Serpent_ZX]

It seems, one of the main issues that people seem to always bring up is painting. They end up "doing something wrong in the process" or not following steps correctly. Some need visuals for learning, and others need something written. Hopefully this will help. I typed this up a little bit ago. I have been using this as a base for spray can painting for years, but it's bascially the same technique Adam uses. Maybe this will clear up his inbox from questions as well. Make sure you read well... And mods, if you would like to stickie this, go for it. These steps will help a lot, and also eliminate a lot of problems some people are having. If you think there is anything I missed, I would like only the experienced people to add. Thank you.

First Adam's...

<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dYHA-VvBVY0"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dYHA-VvBVY0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

Then Mine...

<object width="425" height="350"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/uO8lwIKf1Zo"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/uO8lwIKf1Zo" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"></embed></object>

Before anything, just keep in mind, that choosing your paints, and primers is one of the most important things. Make sure they are compatible with each other, as some types will cause others to crack, shrink, expand, fade, or peel (acrylic, enamel, laquer, water based, oil based). Try to use the same primer throughout your project, and also the same brand. Rustoleum is most people&#39;s choice because it is easy to find, has the most choices in textures, colors, and types, and is easy to use to repair. They are semi resistant to chemicals, and are mostly enamel based. It&#39;s not just coincidence, or copying that people use the same materials when painting. Also, another main factor, is TIME. One of the biggest problems that people have, is they don&#39;t wait long enough for the paint to dry. Some people live in Texas, where it&#39;s usually very hot and dry, and so don&#39;t have to exactly apply to the rules and can wait a few hours. Others live in cooler, humid areas, where they have to give a full day of dry time. Labels usually tell you when it&#39;s dry to the touch, or when it can be handled only. But products that say to give a full 24 hour dry time, and a 7 day period for full durability are usually enamels.
***TIP: Letting your object sit roughly an hour, or 2 in the environment which you plan to paint between layers, and coatings allows it to get to the same temperature as the room your painting in, and allows the primers and paints to stick better. Also helps if you let your cans sit in a small bucket of warm water to increase the pressure slightly in the cans, so the paint comes out smoother, faster, and creates an all around better paint job.***
Also, if you fear your object is exposed to dust, pollen, hair, or just want to give it a quick cleaning before processes, sections, or coatings, you can wipe your object down quickly with a lint free rag, and a small amount of Denatured Alcohol. Be careful not to soak it though. It will dry quickly, and leave a clean surface behind.

SECTION 1

1.) 60 - 80 Grit Wet Sanding.

Wash, and dry. When washing, use a non-abrasive pad, with hot water, and a few drops of soft dish soap. Make sure you rinse well, and dry well with a lint free cloth, and then air dry.

2.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.

3.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer.



4.) 180 Grit Wet Sanding with a solution of 25% Denatured Alcohol, and 75% Water.

Wash, and dry.

5.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.

6.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer.

7.) 320 Grit Wet Sanding with just water.

Wash, and dry.



Let Standing Dry for 1 day.

If done correctly, and carefully, your object should retain all details sharply, and accurately. Most of your sanding of imperfections should have been done in the detailing process before painting... So after this preparation it should also retain any, and all deep scratches, cuts, and pits in your object also, but what this process has done is give your object a very smooth glass-like feel, leveled it, filled in any smaller inperfections, and almost able to actually see reflections in your surface. It has also given your next process of painting a very strong foundation for your base color to stick to. This foundation is almost as if it was part of your object, and should have an extremely high chance of NOT chipping or peeling, and has made the surface a very hard durable shell.
Think of each main process as a whole. The priming process should be thought of as one layer. You need a good foundation for a building so it doesn&#39;t collapse. Next, when you start applying your color, black washing, and adding the dry brush of silver for a worn through look, that&#39;s it&#39;s own layer also as a whole.
Another thing, Primer, and Paint are 2 different things. There is a reason why you apply Primer first, before Painting. They are different make-ups. Primer is also drier, and chalkier. Another reason why you use primer to black wash instead of paints, even though some paints can be used.

SECTION 2

8.) Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.

9.) Light misting of Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer, but just enough to cover this time (Part of black washing step).

10.) 2 - 3 light mist coats of Base Color. For the Original MC, most use Rustoleum American Accents Oregano Smooth Satin Finish.



Let Standing Dry for 1 day.

Again, before actually black washing, just remember to let all paints to flash off, and dry fully. Labels are on paints for a reason. Depending on what your using the paints for, sometimes the labels don&#39;t directly apply (black washing)... But dry times usually always stand firm. So just because the label says the paint is dry in 15 minutes, they assume that it&#39;s safe to handle, and touch, not wipe, or rub with another color, since that&#39;s not exactly what they are intended for.
***TIP: Just be careful, and test on less noticable areas first or on a test object with similar characteristics. When your object or test is dry to the touch according to the labels, move your object to another area that is hotter, or maybe out on a porch where sun is with a nice breeze to &#39;bake&#39; and flash off more efficiently, and since the surface is dry to the touch, dust, pollen, bugs, or other contaminants won&#39;t harm it, or stick.***
Temperature, and humidity DO make a big difference. You want a soft finish, or a hard durable finish? And good rags to use to do your swiping are usually headbands, new cotton socks (not used, or washed since they retain chemicals that could alter their absorbancy), or clean lint free painter&#39;s rags which can be bought on the cheap in bundles. Just try not to use something along the lines of a napkin, paper towel, and old rag from the garage or toilet paper, and you&#39;ll be fine. Also, dry brushing is not a coat per-say, so it&#39;s adhesion properties don&#39;t really matter, and neither does the type of paint.
***FACT: Part of spray paint flashing, or curing process is part of the distance your spraying from. Since they contain solvents usually, they flash off in the air as they are being sprayed, and that&#39;s why they dry so quickly to the touch.***
This is why you spray the brush from a distance. The solvents don&#39;t really have a chance to hinder your object&#39;s paint job, and there is so little being applied.

SECTION 3



11.) Black wash. Lightly spray Rustoleum Dark Grey Automotive Primer fairly close to the surface, in spots where you want to have definition and stand out, recessed areas, or in intricate areas. Mostly anywhere you want an aged look. Wipe away in very light swipes in the same direction with a clean, chemical and lint free rag. DON&#39;T rub, and be careful not to go in a circular motion. Try to only make 2 - 3 passes.



12.) VERY lightly mist with your color again, from a reasonable distance, but not enough to cover your black washing, or to actually put another layer of paint on. This will highlight more raised areas.

13.) Dry brush. Spray your choice of a metallic silver paint from a distance onto a wide bristle brush. Usually a 2 inch brush will be enough. Rub it against any corners, or raised surfaces you want to have a worn look. Just make sure the paint isn&#39;t too wet. You only want enough so slight force is required to make it rub off the brush.



Let a full week of Standing Dry Time pass before full durability is achieved.

[LastSpartan]

Wow good tut Scott. Add some pics and it will be perfect!

[Serpent_ZX]

I have no pics on hand... But if it&#39;s hot out tomorrow, I am starting another painting project tomorrow. I just get frustrated seeing people not being able to do something, and not being able to help in a few words, or being helpful in short posts. That&#39;s the reason for the tut. My problem is I get so caught up in projects, I usually don&#39;t stop to take pics until when I&#39;m done, I realize I make a tut for something I already did, and didn&#39;t document it. Makes it seem less believeable. I have my helmet ready for my base coat... The steps in SECTION 1 were used so far... Maybe I can take pics later, and atleast show that. Not sure if the pics will give it justice though. I can see reflections of my hands in it. LOL Still has all the pits, and marks I left in it from my dremel though.

[colmon_9]

Whats denatured alcohol?

[LastSpartan]

And nice helmet you got there Scott! ^^

Yeah it&#39;s way better with pics.

[Serpent_ZX]

Denatured Alcohol is basically rubbing alcohol... But its a stronger concentration. It&#39;s usually 99% alcohol or more, with like 1% xylenol or of another type of thinner. Usually the other chemical is useless, just a filler to avoid alcohol tax. Companies, and places do this so they don&#39;t have to pay a liqour / alcohol tax. Once a product is a certain percentage of alcohol, they have to be taxed as if it were beer, or vodka. People also use it in painting, and thinning things. Also, its a clean burning fuel for stoves on boats, and stuff. Enough of a description? LOL It&#39;s pretty cheap... Like a gallon for $10 at places like Home Depot, or Lowe&#39;s, or even Wal-Mart carries it. It will be next to mineral spirits, paint thinners, and laquer thinners.

This is what I use, and it&#39;s from the same company that makes more of the better quality stripers,cleaners, and thinners

http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=21&prodid=101

Also, here&#39;s another description of it... Don&#39;t forget, there are many types...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methylated_spirits

Also, the second pic which looks like its night time, I had JUST took like a few minutes ago, and its light out... Stupid camera... LOL

It&#39;s a modified Spase helmet. When I say modified, I don&#39;t mean recast, don&#39;t worry Spase. Heh... It&#39;s just been further detailed, and &#39;stuff&#39; has been added for strength. LOL

[werewolf7171]

Sweet, finaly there is a detailed tut for this. Thank you. Also is the Bulldog Adhesion Promoter sold somewhere like Home Depot or Lowes, or is it a Auto specific product. Thanks Again.

[Serpent_ZX]

Yes... Bulldog Adhesion Promoter is sold in many stores, not special automotive stores... Bulldog is also one of the best universal adhesion promoters, and is compatible with almost all paints... Spray, brush, or rolled. Its better since it allows you to use any brand paint also, instead of having to depend on the same brand of paint, or worry about finding others.

[Humungotron]

IMO, the adhesion promoter is useless. Great if you&#39;re painting plastic, but it doesn&#39;t help any with glasswork. All you&#39;re really using it for in this app is for high build, and to fill sand scratches. if you go with a higher grit sandpaper, say, 400, you shouldn&#39;t need a high build. If you DO need high build, then buy high build primer. The extra step isn&#39;t helping any.
Rustoleum has high builds available, basically its a thicker coat of primer per spray. instead of the standard 2-3 mils, you&#39;re looking at anywhere from 10-30 mils, depending on the product.
The primer is a sealer, among other things. A light mist coat isn&#39;t going to help you any. The first coat should be light, followed by 2 heavier, wet coats. That ensures that whatever you&#39;re painting is a)sealed, and b)built up enough to be able to sand without breaking through the primer. Paint soaks into bondo like a sponge, and it&#39;ll show up in your paint job as a dull spot. fine, if you don&#39;t care, or are going to cut and buff your piece.
Acetone will also work fine instead of denatured alcohol, if you have any available. Personally, I wouldn&#39;t sand with it, even diluted. Anyone who has wet sanded anything of size knows that you end up wearing your fingertips out. its basically like a rugburn. rugburn+alcohol= mind numbing, scream like a little girl pain. The main purpose of it is to remove any wax or grease/oil that may prevent the paint from sticking to the primer, resulting in &#39;fisheyes&#39;.
As for the rag, use a tack cloth. Its basically cheese cloth with a light coat of pine rosin. the tack cloth will pick up alot more dirt and such than a regular cloth will.

And I would never take 80 grit to something except bare bondo. double all the grits listed.
My shop won&#39;t paint anything thats sanded under 400 grit. And I won&#39;t put primer on anything under 220 grit.

Not trying to be a dick... just how I&#39;d do it.

Edit: a mil, for the UK&#39;ers, is a mili-inch, or .001 inches. Yes, Its an archaic system.
the plastic film on a cigarette pack is 5 mils thick, i believe, but don&#39;t quote me. just something to use for comparison.

[Serpent_ZX]

Some of your facts, are correct. Don&#39;t forget, I said we are using the paint for something it is not really meant for... Black washing is one of them. And using a high build wasn&#39;t the point. This is not automotive work, and neither are there any real rounded corners. I also should have mentioned this is on SmoothCast 300. That&#39;s my fault.

There is no real rule when it comes to Adhesion Promoter, except that it ties coats together. The purpose I used it for, since I didn&#39;t use different colored primers to see if I scratched through, was to give it a gloss, so I could tell what was covered, and what wasn&#39;t without trying to build the coats on too thick. I didn&#39;t want to fill in deeper scratches. There was a point to the way I do it. And the alcohol in the water, does in fact help. Usually its 2 parts water, and 1 part alcohol to work correctly, but that&#39;s with very high grade automotive paints. I dilluted further for the Rustoleum.

Acetone will do much more damage, when wiping, expect the paint to become tacky, smear, and will start to come off on your lint free cloth. Alcohol is not as potent, and is only to give it a quick wipe down. Acetone is good for metals usually.

The purpose for using the dark primer was to make a strong, tight bond for the paint to stick to, and also create a surface for, if it just happens to occur, damage... A dark color would look much better then say... Yellow, or white. I also said that most of the sanding of imperfections should have been done before hand.

Lightly misting the paints was also meant to preserve any details that are recessed, and so all the layers don&#39;t become too thick, and over time, a short time, will crack, and peel... Even if they are sanded, primed, and painted correctly.

And if your sanding to where your fingertips are like that... WEAR SOME GLOVES! And why are you sanding with your fingertips!? Use the blocks! LOL Kidding, kidding... But seriously though, I have never had any of those problems you speak of. I just buy empty spray bottles for the measly $0.50, and spray as I sand, and never had problems.

My steps have worked for me for a long, long time. I only tried to relate to what Adam does (the colors he uses) and steps I take, so other people can get an idea since they are asking all the time, and on what colors he uses.

I do commend you for your 2 cents thrown in though. So thank you for your input. I didn&#39;t FULLY explain WHY I took certain steps, so I&#39;m sorry for that, maybe you would have better understood why if I told you guys. But just know, there are reasons why I took certain steps. And there is no real rules when it comes to spray can painting...