Tutorial: How To Make Good Folds For Pepakura Armor

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Ahh! Okay, i am confused about a certain fold on a piece i need to do. Heres what the piece looks like,
Doicut.jpg

It needs to fold in but do i cut the corners where i put the arrows? Some one help me please.

-J-Man
 
tonsofhoopla said:
Ahh! Okay, i am confused about a certain fold on a piece i need to do. Heres what the piece looks like,
Doicut.jpg

It needs to fold in but do i cut the corners where i put the arrows? Some one help me please.

-J-Man
Click to expand...

Yes, cut the solid black lines
 
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I just skimmed though this thread and didn't see this tip listed anywhere. A lot of people have suggested using a ball point pen to score on the folds as well as the backside of an Exacto and even the tip of a mechnical pencil. I've been doing some very intricate paper models for the past couple of years before stumbling upon this forum. The #1 thing I've found to score fold lines on cardstock is a sewing seam ripper. You will have consistent score lines every single time. While the ballpoint pen will work, if you ever build something that has a printed texture, you'll see the pen line over your printed texture. This, in conjunction with a metal straightedge will give you perfect fold lines every single time.
 
This seems weird...42 is supposed to be joined to 42 right? Then why does it say that i have to split them up??
 
SOLIP5IL said:
This seems weird...42 is supposed to be joined to 42 right? Then why does it say that i have to split them up??
Click to expand...

Cut all solid black lines. You're cutting them apart, but see that dotted line? That's going to line up with the other 42. The must be connected. They aren't right now. See what I mean?
 
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SOLIP5IL said:
This seems weird...42 is supposed to be joined to 42 right? Then why does it say that i have to split them up??
Click to expand...
Right but after scaling, the tabs get bunched together sometimes. I have difficulty working with edges so close together (like the 42 and 43 in your helmet) so when that happens I right-click->join/disjoin face to separate at a near fold.
 
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Greg said:
I just skimmed though this thread and didn't see this tip listed anywhere. A lot of people have suggested using a ball point pen to score on the folds as well as the backside of an Exacto and even the tip of a mechnical pencil. I've been doing some very intricate paper models for the past couple of years before stumbling upon this forum. The #1 thing I've found to score fold lines on cardstock is a sewing seam ripper. You will have consistent score lines every single time. While the ballpoint pen will work, if you ever build something that has a printed texture, you'll see the pen line over your printed texture. This, in conjunction with a metal straightedge will give you perfect fold lines every single time.
Click to expand...

A thing which also works, is using one leg of a scissor. Line a ruler up to the line you want to score, GENTLY press down with the scissor leg (or not at all, in my case) and run it down the line. If you hold the paper against the light, you'll see a thin line. Every fold is as straight as that line.
 
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Uh, got a question, how exactly does this work to benefit folding, I didn't use this technique and it still managed to fold well. I know it isn't the marking, it can't be, since you can still see the fold marks clearly without having to mark with a pen, is it maybe the fact that the pen going over the paper creases it slightly, making it tend to fold at that point? IDK
 
By using a pen or the seam ripper, you are actually scoring the cardstock. In other words, you are putting a small crease into the paper that facilitates the fold, making the fold much cleaner than just folding the stock itself. Not as important for thinner paper, but when you get to 80# and thicker stock, it's almost a necessity.
 
im doing Syflo's helm and ive folded 2 already which where the less detail verson, but i printed out Syflo's today and i was cutting and i realized the sections have smaller tabs and everything, also i scaled it to my head. and i was wondering wats best to put them all together cause i used transparent tape last time which i found out resin dissolves it so im screwed on my helms so whats best to out it together.
 
Descended Life said:
im doing Syflo's helm and ive folded 2 already which where the less detail verson, but i printed out Syflo's today and i was cutting and i realized the sections have smaller tabs and everything, also i scaled it to my head. and i was wondering wats best to put them all together cause i used transparent tape last time which i found out resin dissolves it so im screwed on my helms so whats best to out it together.
Click to expand...

create a tab from left over cardstock to attach the two pieces to attach the edges
 
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i've read all the tuts and they are all good i thought i would contribute to this one as i am starting my first MC helmet and noticed that if you want to go further and help create solid folds after you have used the technique of scoring the lines with colored pens you can also use the flat edge of your ruler and place it against the scored lines and than simply fold and create solid folds even those tricky ones with the tabs that dont fold well on the corners. Also to add when you use the ruler i start from the inner most folds and work my way out...its similar to how a machinist would bend metal starting with the inner bend and work his way through the metal piece but maybe i am makin it sound more complex than it is lol
 
Descended Life said:
im doing Syflo's helm and ive folded 2 already which where the less detail verson, but i printed out Syflo's today and i was cutting and i realized the sections have smaller tabs and everything, also i scaled it to my head. and i was wondering wats best to put them all together cause i used transparent tape last time which i found out resin dissolves it so im screwed on my helms so whats best to out it together.
Click to expand...


Go to your local Hobby Lobby and pick up a bottle of "The Ultimate" glue. It's about $4 for an 8oz bottle and is a white glue (like Elmer's) but has an adhesion time of about 10-seconds. They tout it as the "superglue of white glues". That's what I use on all of my paper models. Tough as nails when dry.
 
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Greg said:
Go to your local Hobby Lobby and pick up a bottle of "The Ultimate" glue. It's about $4 for an 8oz bottle and is a white glue (like Elmer's) but has an adhesion time of about 10-seconds. They tout it as the "superglue of white glues". That's what I use on all of my paper models. Tough as nails when dry.
Click to expand...

ok TY, ill find some
 
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Greg said:
By using a pen or the seam ripper, you are actually scoring the cardstock. In other words, you are putting a small crease into the paper that facilitates the fold, making the fold much cleaner than just folding the stock itself. Not as important for thinner paper, but when you get to 80# and thicker stock, it's almost a necessity.
Click to expand...

You're not scoring the paper with a marker.

I don't know why this tutorial is stickied. It's not correct, easy, or the best method.

Buy yourself a metal straight edge ruler, and an exacto knife.
Line up the ruler on the line, drag the exacto blade across the fold line following the ruler gently, bam you're done.
Beautiful, clean, exact folds every time.

Once you get good at it, you don't even need the straight edge 90% of the time, unless you're doing a 5 inch fold or greater.

Do it the right way, it's easier, and more uniform.
 
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quixand_prop said:
You're not scoring the paper with a marker.

I don't know why this tutorial is stickied. It's not correct, easy, or the best method.

Buy yourself a metal straight edge ruler, and an exacto knife.
Line up the ruler on the line, drag the exacto blade across the fold line following the ruler gently, bam you're done.
Beautiful, clean, exact folds every time.

Once you get good at it, you don't even need the straight edge 90% of the time, unless you're doing a 5 inch fold or greater.

Do it the right way, it's easier, and more uniform.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you have seen this or not, but under the topic it says that its BEING UPDATED!!!!

And guess what I'm adding to the tutorial........................exactly what you just said!!!!!!

and yes this is a very easy way to fold the edges of pepakura because its for all those people out there who don't own an exacto knife or who just simply like the way that the edges are color coated to indicate weather or not its a mountain or valley fold. So next time you go about discriminating peoples work I suggest you think about whats easy and whats not, because in my opinion I think using an exacto knife makes the process pretty complicated and is easy to miss a line to fold.

P.S: it's not a marker, its a Pen, way to actually read the tutorial buddy.
 
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Iceman29 said:
I don't know if you have seen this or not, but under the topic it says that its BEING UPDATED!!!!

And guess what I'm adding to the tutorial........................exactly what you just said!!!!!!

and yes this is a very easy way to fold the edges of pepakura because its for all those people out there who don't own an exacto knife or who just simply like the way that the edges are color coated to indicate weather or not its a mountain or valley fold. So next time you go about discriminating peoples work I suggest you think about whats easy and whats not, because in my opinion I think using an exacto knife makes the process pretty complicated and is easy to miss a line to fold.

P.S: it's not a marker, its a Pen, way to actually read the tutorial buddy.
Click to expand...

Believe me "buddy", I had thought about what was easier. Using an exacto knife IS the easiest way to make perfect folds each time. Sure, not everyone has an exacto knife, but I'm sure anyone checking this place out also doesn't have 110lb cardstock sitting in their computer room. They only cost a couple dollars, and are one of THE best investments you can make when getting into this hobby, as it has so many uses.

:whistle:
 
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O.K lets not get into an argument now.

You are right though about the price of exacto knives and how everyone doesn't have 110lb cardstock laying around, I know I didn't.

But what does it matter, I'm changing the tutorial anyways. :lol:
 
Iceman29 said:
O.K lets not get into an argument now.

You are right though about the price of exacto knives and how everyone doesn't have 110lb cardstock laying around, I know I didn't.

But what does it matter, I'm changing the tutorial anyways. :lol:
Click to expand...

No argument from me man. :lol:
 
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