Paper Weights: Lb To Gsm Conversions

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ilikecats

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Please use this as a guide for people living in areas where paper is not sold by US Weights.
Introduction
Paper weights and types can be very confusing.

This is a general guide to help understand the sizes and terms and to associate them with items that you are familiar with.

There are two basic systems in use: <ul>[*]The U.S. system (traditional English system), which sizes the weight in pounds,[/list]<ul>[*]And the Metric system, which sizes the weight in grams / meter squared (g/m²)[/list]The U.S. system is more difficult to understand because the same number in pounds can be used for the thicker card stock or the thinner text papers.

In the U.S. system, a paper's weight is the weight, measured in pounds, of one ream [500 sheets (Courtesy of rvb4life)]. But every type of paper has its own size of ream!

The metric system however is standard across all weights of papers. It measures a fixed size--one square meter.

As a general rule, <ul>[*]10-35 gsm is of tissue consistency;[*]35-70 gsm is lighter textweight,[*]70-100 gsm is medium textweight,[*]100-120 gsm is heavy textweight/light cardstock,[*]120-150 gsm is regular cardstock weight,[*]150-200 gsm is heavy cardstock,[*]and greater than 200 gsm is super heavy cardstock.[/list]For Pepakura Use, 175-250 gsm is the recommended weight.

Anything lighter will be too flimsy to work with when the Resin goes on.

Anything Heavier will begin to get complicated when making HD folds, but can be used for rigid structural integrity.

Conversion Table:

I take no credit for the information, but researched from reliable sources.
Simplified Table generated by me.
Note: All Values are Averages, Paper Types are Generalised.

Paper Type------------------------------------US Weight---------------GSM

Bond/Writing/Ledger (A4/Letter)-----------------20 lb---------------------90 gsm

Translucent Vellum Paper (A4/Letter)-----------29 lb----------------------109 gsm

Solid Card Stock (A4/Letter)-----------------110 lb--------------------175 gsm

3" x 5" Index Card-------------------------------110 lb---------------------200 gsm

If you would like more information, please ask!

Cheers
 
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nice! good post. made me remember why I like the metric system. j/k

through trial and error, I've found everything past 150 gsm is okay for armour, but obviously more gsm = more fun/less frustration.
 
Haha, well I guess Americans will always like their system better, this is just to help those outside of America who are a little bit confused per se.
 
150-200gsm is NOT strong enough for decent pep. I use at least 220, but i even find that not strong enough, so whenever i can i use 280gsm, that does the trick.
 
p0rtalman said:
150-200gsm is NOT strong enough for decent pep. I use at least 220, but i even find that not strong enough, so whenever i can i use 280gsm, that does the trick.

Really? I'm using 200 gsm, but hey, I'll take your word for it.
 
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p0rtalman said:
150-200gsm is NOT strong enough for decent pep. I use at least 220, but i even find that not strong enough, so whenever i can i use 280gsm, that does the trick.

WRONG!

I found out that 110lbs Cardstock is the equivalent to 150 gsm paper. When you say you should use 280 gms, you're looking at 200lbs Carstock!
I believe that 160gms paper is JUST fine for pepping. (Although I suggest using 220gsm and up for REAAAAALLY Big models like the Chest piece)
 
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p0rtalman said:
150-200gsm is NOT strong enough for decent pep. I use at least 220, but i even find that not strong enough, so whenever i can i use 280gsm, that does the trick.
one problem: the printer. if you can print it, obviously the more the better... 150 gsm is bottom limit, but 180 gsm will work fine. trust me on this one, I have several pieces of armour (most of them testers) made with paper of 150 gsm.
 
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I've been using 110 lb. card stock for my printouts. So far I've only done the hand plates and helmet, and that seems to be just heavy enough for the prototyping method I'm employing. I'm tempted to try heavier stock for the larger pieces, but I'm not sure if my Lexmark 8350 can handle it.
 
Good info.

Added this as a sticky since there's quite a few folks from NZ, AUS, and UK that could make use of this. :)
 
I use 200gsm Tablex Card i bought from Officeworks. $11 for a pack of 100 sheets. But i think it's more than 200gsm though, cause other brands of 200gsm paper bend and flex like 80gsm.
 
S1l3nt V1p3r said:
WRONG!

I found out that 110lbs Cardstock is the equivalent to 150 gsm paper. When you say you should use 280 gms, you're looking at 200lbs Carstock!
I believe that 160gms paper is JUST fine for pepping. (Although I suggest using 220gsm and up for REAAAAALLY Big models like the Chest piece)

i dont think 110 lb is thick enough, especially when you get to the fiberglassing stage. when i used cardstock i didnt warp but as soon as i switched over there was a significant change. i also feel more confident that my models wont break when theyre thicker.
 
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Vexona said:
Good info.

Added this as a sticky since there's quite a few folks from NZ, AUS, and UK that could make use of this. :)

Thanks for the Sticky!

And Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread.

Your first hand experiences are a great asset to the many tutorials around.
 
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I'm new to this and i am trying to decide which kind of paper to use for my first armor, are the heavier papers harder to work with or are they just more expensive?
 
I've found them easier to work with in that you don't have to worry about the model losing it's shape as you work due to the weight of the model. Otherwise, there's not much difference.
 
Hi guys, I'm planning to make a full suit of Mark VI HD armour, undersuit and all, and I would like to know the ideal gsm to use for the armour components.



Can anyone who has successfully constructed and fiberglassed their armour please tell me what they found were the ideal GSMs of cardstock for each armour component? Any help would be very much appreciated.
 
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