Props How To Make A Weapon Prop- Tutorial

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Xtreme TACTICS 101

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PART ONE:





Now, I guess first off I should clear something up: SAFETY FIRST!!! Thats right, ALWAYS use a resporator when dealing with Bondo and Resin!



Now that I have that out of the way, here is the main idea of the thread...



Have you ever wondered what is the best way to make a halo weapon for around $50.00? Are you really low on money and really want or need a very good weapon prop? Stop you're searching, because you have just found the answer to you're question!



This thread is committed to show you the know how on how to make a cardboard Battle Rifle.



Materials you need are:

-Thick corrogated cardboard - FREE from in a dumpster behind a furnature store

-Cerial box - Free, get mommy to buy you some "Lucky Charms"

-Exacto knife - $5.00

-A spring - $2.50

-1.5cm wooden dowel - $2.00

-1.5cm copper plumbing pipe -(optional) - FREE if you have it

-20mm rifle scope rails (optional) - Take them off a cheep airsoft gun or buy some on the internet

-Bondo body filler- small - $10.00

-Spot Putty - $2.50

-Resin - $15.00

-Spray paint (black and silver) - $5.00 each

-Metal knitting needle - $1.00 at dollar store

-School glue - $1.00 at dollar store

-Strong wire - $1.00 from dollar store/Wal-mart



SINGS:



RED - Look at Battle Rifle diagram for referance

YELLOW - Improtant!

UNDERLINED - Link!



Now, here is the diagram I will be refering to:



battlerifle.gif




Once you have all of the materials needed, you are ready to start.



STEP 1: SCALE YOUR BLUEPRINTS-

First off before your start your Battle Rifle, you need to scale your Battle Rifle to the propper size. I used Wizardofflight's blueprints for this. Print the blueprints off of your computer and get ready for the most stressing part of the process. Once the blueprints are printed, you have to scale them up. Grab a calculator, a pencle, an erasor and some paper. Next, find the scale you want. For example: If the battle rifle blueprints you printed off of the computer are 12cm's long and the BR you want to make is 89.9 cm long (real size), than divide 12cm by 89.9 cm and you will have your scale. If you do this correctly, the scale of the BR will be right on.



The finished blueprint you have drawn should look something like this (I know, its some Sniper Rifle blueprints but I did not have a picture of my Battle Rifle blueprints):



DSCN1447.jpg




NOTE: Wizardofflights Battle Rifle blueprints are slightly too short. Once you have you're BR scaled and drawn out, add 1cm-2cm to the flash hider.





STEP 2: GETTING STARTED-

Now that you have made it to STEP 2, I'll show you how to make the base of your Battle Rifle. First off, use your Battle Rifle blueprints and cut 5-7 identicle Battle Rifle pieces from the cardboard but DO NOT cut out the barrel aswell. Finishing this, put the pieces togeather and see if any part is larger than the other. If so, trim that part to the right size. Next, put the pieces togeather again, but this time measure how wide the gun is. If it is 3.5cm's thick and you are building the full scale Battle Rifle, than you are ready for the next step.





STEP 3: MAG WELL, SAFETY BUTTON AND MAG, OH MY!-

Now, you can skip this step or not, its your choice, but if you want plenty of functions, than read on. On my Battle Rifle, there is a removeable Mag, working charging handle and a working safety button. If you want all of these things than here is how to do it.



MAG WELL- Take the innermost layers of your Battle Rifle (all but 2 pieces) and get ready to cut them. Take your blueprints and draw a realistic sized magazine onto it. Next, cut that part from your blueprint and keep the magazine part. Use the BR blueprint and place it on top of the cardboard piece and draw where the mag is supposed to go. Cut that area out and keep the mag shaped pieces and the BR pieces. Do the same thing to all but 2 of the BR pieces. Once finished, the magazine well is done.



SAFETY BUTTON- Take your Battle Rifle blueprints and cut away the safety button. If you are not sure where that is its #(5). Next take all of your Battle Rifle shaped parts and line the blueprint up with the parts and trace the hole where the safety button is supposed to be onto the cardboard part. Than cut the piece out and throw it away. Do the same to all of the parts and you are half way finished your safety button.



MAG- Hopefully you didn't throw away those larger pieces you cut out from the gun that were ment to be the mag. If you did, than make new ones using your blueprint. If you still have them, than keep reading. Use those pieces and glue them togeather so that all of the edges line up. Leave it to dry while you carry onto the next step.



BARREL WELL- This part is important. Cut a hole something around this area and size on all but the 2 outter pieces. This is for the barrel, DO NOT MISS THIS PART!!!





STEP 4: PICKING UP THE PIECES AND PUTTING THEM TOGEATHER AGAIN-

Now, using the Battle Rifle shaped pieces, glue them togeather so that EVERY edge is lined up with eachother. Leave the Battle Rifle to dry over night under some heavy books to keep it from warping. Once finished, it should look something like this (Without front detail yet):



DSCN0888.jpg




STEP 5: CHARGING HANDLE WELL-

Once the Battle Rifle is dry, grab an exacto knife and the Battle Rifle and be VERY CAREFUL during this step! Use the exacto knife to cut on the top of the Battle Rifle where I have directed at #(2). Dont cut yourself!!! Once finished this, tear the inside cardboard down to #(1). Once finished that, cut a section from your cerial box and line the bottem of the well with it. Now, don't worry, the huge hole will not be there forever. You will cover it up soon enough.



STEP 6: DETAIL HO! -

This is the fun part! This is where the Battle Rifle really starts looking great! First off, this step may get a little confusing, so take your time with this and go step by step and you won't go wrong.



Take your blueprint and cut out the Side Grip or "Triangle Bar" [ #(9) ]. This is the hardest part to do, so get it over with now. Take that part and trace it 2 times. The parts have to be opposite to eachother. Do this by tracing it once, than flipping it on its back, and tracing it again. This finished, cut the cardboard part out. Once finished, store it in a safe place for now.



Now, cut the mag relice button out of your blueprint and use the main part of the blueprint and line it up to the cardboard Battle Rifle itself. Trace the mag relice button [ # (4) ] on both sides and cut it out like this:



DSCN0961.jpg




Now for the forgrip area. Take your now mangled blueprint and cut the forgrip part out. Trace that part onto some cardboard, and than measure 5cm-5.5cm (if you are doing a full scale Battle Rifle) from the bottem. Next, take the blueprint forgrip piece and flip it on its back, and line it up with the 5cm-5.5cm marks. Once cut out, it should look something like this DO NOT USE BLUEPRINT!:



zzz.jpg




This could take 2-3 tries to make it work, but it saves lots of work in the long run. Now, take the Battle Rifle's main body piece and where the forgrip part should go, round that area off with the exacto knife. Now, make scores with the knife on the forgrip part you just cut out, and finally glue that part on. Rubber band that part in blace, and keep a close eye on it for half an hour, than let it dry over night.



Follow what I just typed in the above paragraph for the top venting part aswell [ # (6) ].



Next, do the rest of the details on both sides. Glue all of the pieces in place and you will almost be finished with the main part of the project



Here are some pictures of the gun (yours should NOT be here until you complete STEPS 7 and 8.) You should be abled to do the rest of the details using these pictures and your blueprints:



DSCN1428.jpg




DSCN1435.jpg




DSCN1438.jpg




DSCN1434.jpg




DSCN1439.jpg






STEP 7: CHARGING HANDLE+ WORKING SYSTEMS-

Now that you have a charging handle well, you need a charging handle. Get your hands on a metal coat hanger, the metal knitting needle , the copper pipe, and the spring. Cut a part from the copper pipe and drill 2 holes into it, so you can fit the knitting needle inside of the holes snugly. Remove the knitting needle, and cut it so you only have the head, and 4cm of the rod left. Throw away the needle part, and keep the head/4cm of rod. Now hook the end of the spring to the knitting needle while the knitting needle is through only one of the holes on the copper pipe. Once the spring is attached firmly, run the knitting needle through the other hole in the copper pipe so the head of the knitting needle is facing the way you want to yank on. Make sure you leve 1.5cm of the needle running until the needle enters the copper pipe. Now using the hammer, smash the other end of the knitting needle that does not have the head on it so it is bent and you are unabled to pull the needle out or move it in any way. Next, take the strong wire, and cut a long piece off. Run the wire through the corrogation of the cardboard from where the charging handle well starts to the bottem of the Battle Rifle so it sticks out the other end. Now run the wire back through the cardboard about 3-4 corrogation slits away to the charging handle well. Run the access wire through the end of the spring and twist the wire so the spring can't be ripped away from the gun, but can still be extended and can spring forward again.



Once you have installed the charging handle like this:



DSCN1430.jpg




DSCN1431.jpg




You are now ready to cover up the area that the charging handle is in. Measure in an ark over top of the charging handle well, and use that length to cut a rectangle out of cardboard so it compleatly covers the area. Score the inside of the cardboard piece and bend it so it fits over the area you want to cover. Now glue the pieces like this:



DSCN1449.jpg




DSCN1451.jpg




Now you are VERY close to being ready for Bondo and Resin.



STEP 8: BARREL AND FLASH HIDER-

Take the wooden dowel and cut it to the length of the barrel disincluding the flash hider. Now, dry fit it into the hole where the barrel is supposed to go. Check how it fits, and make any adjustments needed. Double check the length of the barrel sticking out, and once satisified, install it! Now, for the flash hider. Take the copper pipe and cut it to the length you scaled the blueprints at. Now if you have any metal cutting saws at your school or at home, get an adult to help you cut the detail into the flash hider. Now, glue the barrel in.



You are now ready for Resin! PART TWO is down the page!



Tell me what you all think, and hope this tutorial helped!



The only thing I ask in return for this tutorial is that if/when you use it, please mention it in your WIP thread. Thanks.



CHEERS!
 
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No, it's not just you. There are no pictures in the tutorial, but there is one picture in the posts that follow.
 
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:
There are pictures. They are the words that are underlined. They are links that lead to pictures. Do you only see random words and numbers for the links? The links work fine on my computer.

And sorry Leadingspartan, you may not have my baby. But isn't it sooooo cute!

CHEERS!
Are there any pictures of the scope? Awww I can't haz your babiez????????? NOOOO! Lol.
 
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Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:
I haven't started the scope yet because its going to be a custome working 2x scope.

I would just be lazy and not have a scope, or add a red dot sight to make it original.

Great tutorial, though. I like that you added a section for working functions and such. Try to add a part for making a working scope cheaply, though. I don't want to have to risk a working 2x scope to make a BR scope that functions >.>
 
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The scope is more of a modded scope. I used a $20.00 scope from Canadian Tire and cut it down and re-located the lenses. I only have to mod some areas of the scope, so its not too hard. I will make a 3'rd part to this tutorial after the BR main body part is finished.

Hopefully next weekend I will be abled to get resining finished. Its supposed to be above 0 finally! But im also working on a Ghillie suit that weekend. Chances are I will get the 5-7 coats of resin on that weekend, and dye and strip the burlap for the ghillie. Bondo will have to wait untill some time in march durring March break.

CHEERS!
 
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:
The scope is more of a modded scope. I used a $20.00 scope from Canadian Tire and cut it down and re-located the lenses. I only have to mod some areas of the scope, so its not too hard. I will make a 3'rd part to this tutorial after the BR main body part is finished.

Hopefully next weekend I will be abled to get resining finished. Its supposed to be above 0 finally! But im also working on a Ghillie suit that weekend. Chances are I will get the 5-7 coats of resin on that weekend, and dye and strip the burlap for the ghillie. Bondo will have to wait untill some time in march durring March break.

CHEERS!


Awesome! I actually already have a Ghillie Suit. I use it for airsoft. Lol, I had a guy sit on me once because he thought I was grass! -.- . Anyway, My birthday is in March! :), So you should send me one, Jk. Anyway, Since you already have an airsoft rail on there, couldn't you just attach an airsoft scope?


EDIT: Couldn't you just buy these rails and scopes. Link
 
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Actually, Im working on my 5'th ghillie. I've sold 3 of them, and I'm looking to sell 1 more after I make this one.

And I don't want to buy a scope because I will have to mod it anyhow, so instead of spending $100.00 on a scope, why not mod a $20.00 scope instead? Also, airsoft scopes (the red dot ones anyhow) are compleatly un-halo like and look nothing like the WETA scope either. Im not taking any shortcuts with this project.

CHEERS!

P.S.- Leadingspartan, do all of the links work for you? Is it just Arbiter452 and The Stig who are having problems?
 
Sorry everyone, I won't have the second half up until some time around summer. I just ran into a majour problem with the charging handle so it will take a bit to get that cleared up and that I can go onto resining.

Sorry for the weight everyone.

EDIT: Sorta a bump considering the second half of the tutorial is almost ready and I just want people to see the thread.

CHEERS!
 
that would awesome a guy in marine armour and a gillie suit over it and a br you have inspired me to make my very own gille suit :D
 
LOL, wow, Thats like 3 projects in one. Personally I have 3 ghillie suits (1 winter ghillie, 1 spring/fall ghillie and one summer ghille) and made them all from scratch (Netting and all) in less than 2 months. I actually made 4 but sold the other one. I also have the BR, a marine costume (gotta post pictures...) and a MJOLNIR MK.VI costume in the works. Gosh, its getting hard to keep up with myself... :p

Well, good luck with your armour/ghillie suit/BR.

CHEERS!
 
lol, im just gana have to find out how to bypass the rule "that im to young for fiberglass and resin" :p
Just one question; i know that you used burlap for the actual gillie part of the suit but how did you colour it?
 
Don't worry about the fiberglassing part, I just edited the tutorial to better fit your needs, and also to better fit costs and make the Battle Rifle harder to break.



Well, addapting to the new forum was hard, and it took a good 3 hours to edit the first post to make sure everything was functioning properly. Although I can't get the images back into thumbnails, I will still try to get it to work.



Now, Other then the second half of the tutorial (Comming soon, just give me a week or two) what would you like to see in the tutorial improved? Want do you like about it, ro hate about it. Mods, Im looking your way for this information.



Be really pickey about it. Are there spelling mistakes? How could I better improve this tutorial to be sticky worthy?



Thanks in advance.



EDIT: HA! YES! I fixed it!!! OK, all images are in there proper form now!



CHEERS!
 
OK people, this is the moment you all have been waiting for:



PART TWO:



NOTE: For all of PART 2, you MUST wear a resporator, or when sanding, a dust mask.





STEP 1: RESIN



This part is pretty straight forward. I'm going to point you in this direction: Resining & Fiberglassing Tutorial/How To. Now, the only tips I can give you are:



-Do one LIGHT coat of resin first to make sure the cardboard does not become soggy. Doing this also makes sure when the cardboard is dry, it isn't all bumpy because of how soggy the cardboard may have gotten if you used a heavy coat of resin first.

-Do NOT resin the wooden dowel that is the barrel.

-Resin one side of the Battle Rifle at a time. Resin one side, wait a few hours (Or until the resin is cured), then resin the other side.

-DO NOT resin the magazine AND inside the magazine well. Only resin the magazine! Resining both WILL result in the mag not fitting back into the magazine well.

-While the magazine is drying, DO NOT at any point put the magazine into the rifle. The magazine WILL stick to the inside of the Battle Rifle and you will not be abled to get it out again.

-DO NOT resin the charging handle UNLESS its cardboard.

-DO NOT resin the inside of the charging handle well.



You should apply inbetween 5-7 thin coats of resin, NO LESS. Any fewer then 5 thin coats of resin, when you sand, you will have sanded all the way through to the cardboard. You DO NOT want this to happen!



STEP 2: BONDO



This step, although somewhat similar to the bondoing of a pepakura helmet or armour part, is not the exact same. First off, prepare the bondo as it instructs on the can. For further instruction of how to use Bondo body filler, go to this tutorial: Tutorial: Using Bondo For Detailing.



Now, you will have to Bondo the Battle Rifle a certan way. You have to apply the bondo on all the exposed corrogated areas and fill them in so your Battle Rifle looks its best. In order to do this, once you have your bondo ready to be applied to the Battle rifle, grab your spreading tool, and load it with bondo. Now, very quickly take the bondo and smear it over one corrogated area at a time. Only do one side of the Battle Rifle at a time. To properly smear the bondo onto the corrogated areas of the Battle Rifle, you have to do 3 basic movements. The "Place, Wipe, Clean" movement. In order to properly exicute this movement, place the spreading tool loaded with bondo on the area you wish to fill. This is the "Place" step. Now, smear the bondo upwards and away from your Battle Rifle so it fully fills in the corrogated area. This is the "Wipe" step. And finally, do a quick clean up run with your spreading tool. Do this by running the spreading tool along the surface of the bondoed area to wipe away any excess Bondo you do not need. Thats was the "Clean" step. Now, just remember, make sure you leave atleast 2mm of bondo exposed. Make sure you can not see the corrogation through the bondo. If you can, just apply more bondo about 1 hour later.



Now, keep doing the "Place, Wipe, Clean" movement until you are satisfied and you can not see any more corrogation.



STEP 3: SANDING



For this step, wait for the bondo to dry for atleast (YELLOW) 48 hours (YELLOW) just to make sure the Bondo is nice and hard. Now, sand the bondo so its as smooth as possible.



Now, spray some sandable primer on the Battle Rifle where you applied bondo, and wait for it to dry. Look for any "dents" in the bondo. When you find them, take a marker or pen, and mark them. Now, apply more bondo to the area, and once dry, sand. Do this as many times needed.



STEP 4: SPOT PUTTY



Pretty much, this step is the same as STEPS 2 and 3, but with the word "Bondo" replaced with the words "Spot Putty".



STEP 5: WOOD GRAIN FILLER



If you used a wooden dowel, you have to fill in the wood grain. In order to do this, its just like working with bondo. Just apply in a THIN coat (Unlike bondo when you apply bondo in a rather "thick" coat). Once dry, sand until the wood is nice and smooth.



STEP 6: RESIN AGAIN



This is the last part to do with resin for PART 2, I promiss.



Now, apply one last coat of resin to the whole Battle Rifle. This will seel the bondo so it will not crack as easly if you drop the Battle Rifle. Sand the resin so you have a somewhat smooth surface. Don't make it too smooth, other wise the pant wont stick to it.



STEP 7: PRIMER AND PAINTING



First off mask off any areas you don't want paint in/on.



Apply 2-3 light coats of primer to the surface of the Battle Rifle. Paint one side of the Battle Rifle at a time. Inbetween each coat, let the primer dry for atleast 6 hours. In order to properly apply spray paint, take the paint can and line the edges of the Battle Rifle. Now, "fill in" the Battle Rifle with five, even, clean strokes of paint starting just before one side of the Battle Rifle, and ending after the opposite end of the Battle Rifle. Don't rush yourself!



Once the Primer is dry, take your base colour (If your doing a normal Halo 3 Battle Rifle, use Flat/Matt Black, if its the Weta Battle Rifle, use Flat/Matt, or Satin Black) and apply 5 nice, thin coats of paint. Once again, don't rush it. You don't want the paint to run and you end up having a bunch of streek marks on your Battle Rifle. Follow the same basic instrustions above. Now, wait for the base coat of paint to dry for a full 24 hours, and move onto the next part.



Finaly mask off the parts you wan't to remain black/whatever colour you used for your base coat. Make sure you have NONE of the Battle Rifle you don't wan't painted showing. Now, take your second colour and paint the area you want painted with that colour. Use the same steps above to properly paint the Battle Rifle with no streek marks. Allow the paint to dry a full 24 hours or more, and remove the masks.



Now, take a small paintbrush and make any touch ups needed. Also add any detail you want/weathering you want. Once satisfied, double check your work, and make sure you have no inperfections.



STEP 8: CLEAR COAT



Congratulations, you have reached the last step of PART 2!



Now, firstly, you need to choose the type of clear coat you want. Depending on what type of paint your base colour was ( Flat/Matt, Satin, Semi-Gloss, Gloss) use the same type of clear coat. DO NOT use a Gloss clear coat on top of a Flat base colour!. Now, following the same way you painted your Battle Rifle, apply 3 nice, thin and even coats of clear coat.



Wait a full 48 hours before handling the gun again.



Now, I would like to officialy congratulate you on the compleation of the main piece of your Battle Rifle. Sadly (or for some happily), you still have one more thing left.



Wait for PART 3 of the tutorial to come out to learn how to make the scope.



Good luck on your Battle Rifles/whatever gun your making using this tutorial.



I will have pictures for PART 2 up within the month.



Feedback will be greatly appreciated.



CHEERS!
 
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