Let The Madness Begin, Or My Warthog Build.

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So How're you gonna get the mesh to stay on the frame? Tak-weld witha flex-core would work nicely, just use some 1" washers with the mesh between them and the frame would keep you from burning up the aluminum mesh. I dunno I'm just curious. I do alot of auto body welding.
That frame looks fantastic.
 
UPDATE
9-24-2010

No pictures but in the next couple of days i will be picking up a early 80's Ford Bronco. The deal has been made and the money has changed hands. The big tires and rims from my first few posts will bolt right up to it now. I hope before i head back to work to have the warthog's framework on the new chassis. The motor in it is bad, but it is very easy to get a 302 ford. I have a spare one in the shop anyways (320 engine). Only thing i may have to address is the wheelbase of the new chassis is 2.5 inches shorter than what i currently have. I will just have to look at it, and if it needs it later on. Swap springs or go to a ladder bar rear suspension to get the wheelbase i need it it looks too short. With this i can start some of the work like the turret base and interior. I will know what frame it will be "stuck" on.
 
O.M.G!! I had been holding my breath from page 1 to 35 n say OMG OMG how far did he went!? I want that soo bad!!! hmmmm WOW hes single dad HMMM!!! LOL just kidding :)
 
UPDATE 11-25-2010

This has slowed down some because i have needed a new chassis. I stopped work on the floor braces in case I had to go with a different chassis I didn't what to have to cut them out and start over. Well i finally got the new chassis home. I still have a couple of legal things i have to do like get the title in my name, and a couple of forms to fill out so i can put the warthog body on it. After that is done i can go back to welding and fitting on the last of the braces. I need to get back on the body panels too. I also have picked up a new pile of metal to have on hand for when that time comes. Just want to make sure i have it all legal before i start.

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Man that's awsome, I was thinking about doing the same thing but I'm unemployed and have quite a few other things I need to accomplish before I start such an insane project. Glad I won't have to wait that long to see how yours turns out. My favorite part is the rear steer which sadly is probably the most difficult part unless you can find another vehicle that utilizes a rear steer and convert its rear end into the K5 chassis. I think I read something a while back about an older truck that had rear steer but I forget where... If I ever come across it again I'll be sure to let you know

can't wait for further progress

Getting a rear steer rearend is easy. Just use another ft end and flip it. Then you have to swap out your reverse cut gears to standard gears. The big pain in setting up your steering linkage. I plan to go to bigger axles in the future (dana 60) so i may do a conversion on it later on. Got to get it going first.

When You say 'flip' do you mean cutting the Knuckles and then welding them back in place? I've heard people doing that before. I take it you'll also be going with a Hydro setup as well? Should make it really cool. I've thought of this idea quite often on my "Dream 4x4". It is very Warthog ish.

Keep up the good work!
 
When You say 'flip' do you mean cutting the Knuckles and then welding them back in place? I've heard people doing that before. I take it you'll also be going with a Hydro setup as well? Should make it really cool. I've thought of this idea quite often on my "Dream 4x4". It is very Warthog ish.

Keep up the good work!

No cutting, on the knuckles, just your attachments for coil springs or leaf springs are the only cutting. Then the swapping out of the gears so putting it in drive won't make you go backwards, lol. Then on the steering there are a few ways to do it. Just depending on how much you are wanting to use it, but i am going to skip the 4 wheel steer for now. IF if get it going on this warthog i will have to have a bypass and mechanical pin off so the rear can't steer for road use to remain legal.
 
I Can't wait to see this thing finished. You should make the turret barrel spin and make it shoot smoke and fire like a real gun haha.
 
haha sweet, weird thing I just noticed is that you started this post on my birthday. A paintball gun with the co2 and the paintballs in a tube running into the gun would be epic. Ive seen it done with turrets before, just not on this kind of vehicle.
 
Firstly, I gotta say, epic work man. Im currently planning to make my own road legal warthog. At this time, I dont have the funding to buy a vehicle to start my build, however I'm currently making 3D plans (actually done in blender) for a tubing frame that can be dropped on a jeep or sedan frame without too much dificulty. The only way i can make this frame work is if it costs around 100$. My price estimates for the vehicle are still a bit to high, so With that said, would you mind helping me out by answering a few questions?

Firstly about the frame, how strong it?, how much does it flex?
and lastly, are there any places that 2X2 tubing that could possibly be substituted for 1x1 tubing (3/16 thick walls)?

This is definatly one of the best builds on the 405th! I really hope to see it finished.
-Gryphon
 
Firstly, I gotta say, epic work man. Im currently planning to make my own road legal warthog. At this time, I dont have the funding to buy a vehicle to start my build, however I'm currently making 3D plans (actually done in blender) for a tubing frame that can be dropped on a jeep or sedan frame without too much dificulty. The only way i can make this frame work is if it costs around 100$. My price estimates for the vehicle are still a bit to high, so With that said, would you mind helping me out by answering a few questions?

Firstly about the frame, how strong it?, how much does it flex?
and lastly, are there any places that 2X2 tubing that could possibly be substituted for 1x1 tubing (3/16 thick walls)?

This is definatly one of the best builds on the 405th! I really hope to see it finished.
-Gryphon

If you are looking at jeeps I would look for something with a longer wheelbase than a wrangler. Right now i am looking at 106 inch wheelbase but it could of been longer even up to 115 to 120 inches with out a problem.

The metal is going to cost. I have around 800 tied up in metal for the body right now. I would have to go through my tickets for the exhaust cost. I payed more for the metal i picked up this time home than i did last time. It had gone up almost 10 bucks a stick.

Before you work on your frame i would decide 100% what chassis you want to use and try to get it running or needs very little work. It will cost more in the long run trying to find all the little things. I only payed 500 for the bronco, but that was everything there and working except a engine and i have one of those in the shop already. I found others that were cheaper between 200 and 300 dollars but they didn't have a title, just used around the hunting camp. I was looking for one that had been rolled, but didn't want to waste more time on that.

Firstly about the frame, how strong it?
It is very strong, I put everything not just to look like a warthog but to work as a roll-cage. I plan on driving it on the street and at the very least off-road. Accidents are going to happen so all you can do is prepare.

how much does it flex?
It doesn't flex very much, i wanted it to be solid. I can put a ratchet hoist on it and pull it over some, but you aren't going to get it to flex by hand.

are there any places that 2X2 tubing that could possibly be substituted for 1x1 tubing (3/16 thick walls)?

That will be determined on your personal design. I am using .125 or 1/8" thick mild steel. Legal drag race requirements on a roll-cage are .120 mild steel or .085 for chrome molly steel. Chrome molly costs more but it weighs less too. ( hope these specs are still up to date, NHRA may of changed them some) The reason i went with the sizes i did was to get the sub frame (roll cage) looking like the warthog main frame as much as i could. I have used 2" x 4" , 2" x 2" and 1" x 1" . You will want to price the thicker 1" x 1" and compare it price wise to the other metal sizes.

Anything else you want to ask my opinion on just ask here or in a pm.
 
yes it can be all he has to do is add lights for everything mirror's and tale lights lience plate and a thick car body and role cage and probly no gun cops might look down on that F....K THE POLICE lol any ways keep it up man im really liking it so far
 
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