How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

[Trigger]

Amazing, this is answering so many questions. Keep it up ben these videos are awesome. I have another question though fiberglass is a little lighter but have you noticed any difference in the strength of each? Does one provide more strength than the other?



Oh, and could you maybe show how to do this with another piece of armor? Like the ODST WETA shins I'm working on currently? From watching you I've been thinking I'll just have to paint it on with the brush.

[BenStreeper]

[quote name='Trigger' date='10 February 2010 - 08:00 PM' timestamp='1265853618' post='393220']

Amazing, this is answering so many questions. Keep it up ben these videos are awesome. I have another question though fiberglass is a little lighter but have you noticed any difference in the strength of each? Does one provide more strength than the other?



Oh, and could you maybe show how to do this with another piece of armor? Like the ODST WETA shins I'm working on currently? From watching you I've been thinking I'll just have to paint it on with the brush.

[/quote]





You would only have to brush it on sir, so you are correct. I actually already did some odst shins, although mine were a scratch build. I used mat-board which is already quite sturdy, so there wasn't mush re-enforcing needed. However for yours (cardstock I assume) I would resin the outside first then just paint in or slush cast the rondo.

[amancue]

so to ask another question,..would rondo,bondo or resin jelly be best (easiest) for the outside to shape and smooth? after hardening the inside

I mentioned jelly, because I read somewhere, one of the people on the 405th used it instead of bondo and it was easier to sand, was curious if you had

any experience w/ it. couldnt find anything more on it.

[BenStreeper]

[quote name='amancue' date='10 February 2010 - 08:41 PM' timestamp='1265856095' post='393254']

so to ask another question,..would rondo,bondo or resin jelly be best (easiest) for the outside to shape and smooth? after hardening the inside

[/quote]



Of those it would be bondo. It is basically a putty that sands very easily. I will be working with it later in the build.

[amancue]

[quote name='BenStreeper' date='10 February 2010 - 09:53 PM' timestamp='1265856820' post='393260']

Of those it would be bondo. It is basically a putty that sands very easily. I will be working with it later in the build.

[/quote]



another thought I was having maybe you can help w/ this one of the pieces I have to work on, is a closed object, and I've

been thinking of many different ways to handle it, Im wondering how well rondo would adhere to a surface already resin'ed

so I cant 'glass it up then do the final stiffening ontop of it, another thought is more pains taking, carefully glass the

inside of each piece before I put it together leaving the tabs clean then build it so its stiffer from the inside then

coating the outside

[BenStreeper]

[quote name='amancue' date='12 February 2010 - 05:31 PM' timestamp='1266017462' post='393952']

another thought I was having maybe you can help w/ this one of the pieces I have to work on, is a closed object, and I've

been thinking of many different ways to handle it, Im wondering how well rondo would adhere to a surface already resin'ed

so I cant 'glass it up then do the final stiffening ontop of it,

[/quote]



Rondo uses resin inside of it as a thinning agent. This makes it very adherent to already resined pieces (providing of course you are using the same resin.) As for the "closed objects" : first resin the outside so that the object will not lose its shape/ warp. Next examine your object for a flat spot. EXAMPLE: on an AR you would be looking at the back of the butt, or the bottom of the clip. Then cut about a 2inch hole to pour in the RONDO. Rotocast it in the piece. Then pour in more rondo as needed. Once the piece is "hard" enough (some one out there just said "giggitty") pour in one more small batch of rondo. Once it is in put a piece of packing tape over the hole. Let the rondo harden then simply remove the tape.



[quote name='amancue' date='12 February 2010 - 05:31 PM' timestamp='1266017462' post='393952']

another thought is more pains taking, carefully glass the

inside of each piece before I put it together leaving the tabs clean then build it so its stiffer from the inside then

coating the outside

[/quote]



This just wont work well.

[amancue]

[quote name='BenStreeper' date='12 February 2010 - 08:16 PM' timestamp='1266023762' post='393994']

Rondo uses resin inside of it as a thinning agent. This makes it very adherent to already resined pieces (providing of course you are using the same resin.) As for the "closed objects" : first resin the outside so that the object will not lose its shape/ warp. Next examine your object for a flat spot. EXAMPLE: on an AR you would be looking at the back of the butt, or the bottom of the clip. Then cut about a 2inch hole to pour in the RONDO. Rotocast it in the piece. Then pour in more rondo as needed. Once the piece is "hard" enough (some one out there just said "giggitty") pour in one more small batch of rondo. Once it is in put a piece of packing tape over the hole. Let the rondo harden then simply remove the tape.







This just wont work well.

[/quote]



the 2nd I didnt think would just a random I did I had while thinking,. .your 1st suggestion is similar to one of my original ideas of putting a small hole in it and measuredly spraying in great stuff PU foam (after glassing the outside of course) the piece in question is the backpack for the Imperial Space Marine (Warhammer 40k) hmmm the casting it around would prolly work, it'll just take a while its about 725MM 2.25feet high,but Im feeling more confident that it'll work by the time I get to that part

[BenStreeper]

[quote name='amancue' date='12 February 2010 - 07:30 PM' timestamp='1266024611' post='394004']

my original ideas of putting a small hole in it and measuredly spraying in great stuff PU foam (after glassing the outside of course) the piece in question is the backpack for the Imperial Space Marine (Warhammer 40k)

[/quote]





I'll tell you this ahead of time. If you are going to use the great stuff you are better off getting Flex-it from Reynolds. Great stuff was responsible for exploding more than one of my helmets in the past It's just not as predictable as Flex-It due to the way it's Chemical Reaction expands. Using Oxygen was smart on their part but will cause problems for anything in a "contained" space........





Poor, poor ODST Rookie helmet v1







I still miss you

[amancue]

[quote name='BenStreeper' date='12 February 2010 - 08:39 PM' timestamp='1266025193' post='394011']

I'll tell you this ahead of time. If you are going to use the great stuff you are better off getting Flex-it from Reynolds. Great stuff was responsible for exploding more than one of my helmets in the past It's just not as predictable as Flex-It due to the way it's Chemical Reaction expands. Using Oxygen was smart on their part but will cause problems for anything in a "contained" space........





Poor, poor ODST Rookie helmet v1







I still miss you

[/quote]



yeah that's what I've heard,.. I used it on my Anti-Material Rifle and it didnt do too bad a job, but had multiple coats of resin on the outside and still had to wait it,.. and occasionly squeeze certain area;s flat while it was still more fluid to keep it nice,. so I was looking to other alternative's so to make sure I understood one of your earlier statements you said rondo would adhere just fine to a resined surface, IE the outside, but you'd still reccomend doing it to the inside instead?

[sik1276]

I am about to start my first serious strengthening thingy (before, I was really cheap and only made paper helms and painting right on the paper.) and I was reviewing the safety stickies and they say that you're supposed to wear safety goggles? Also, for the respirator, apparently you're supposed to refill the cartridges? How often would they need to be refilled?