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  1. New Recruit
    Member Since
    Jun 2012
    Messages
    10
    Aug 14, 2012, 11:05 AM - #76

    New update. The left and right shoulder pieces are done, but not fiberglassed. Working on the chest which should be in a day or two.


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  3. New Recruit
    Member Since
    Jun 2012
    Messages
    10
    Aug 19, 2012, 1:20 PM - #77

    I am starting to think that I am posting to a Dead thread :P




    The chest piece seems to need a lot of smoothing later on because it is very rough to look at


    The edited pieces as I post them can be found HERE
  4. New Recruit
    Member Since
    Oct 2009
    Messages
    3
    Sep 23, 2012, 1:53 PM - #78

    Not dead, and really impressive. Do you happen to have the files for this already unfolded? I've had some problems with the ones (mainly the helmet) I've found online. Any way I can get the files from you if so?
  5. New Recruit
    Member Since
    Sep 2012
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    1
    Sep 29, 2012, 10:46 PM - #79

    Thinking about lich king for next year's Halloween. Please do continue :-) I didn't know pepakura even existed, but I'm handy enough and it seems doable but it will probably take me 6-8 months..
  6. New Recruit
    Member Since
    Sep 2010
    Messages
    5
    Oct 5, 2012, 12:34 PM - #80

    I'm also following this thread with great interest. Good job so far! But just thought I'd add, I've worked with epoxy a great deal (I use marine-grade West System epoxy - it has great wet-out properties but definitely isn't cheap at about 3x the price of polyester). It's a little more flexible than polyester (more flexibility means you can use less glass without your piece being as prone to breaking), but I've not had any problems with it not being rigid enough for most models made with cardstock paper to hold their shape, and I've done some really huge pep models too which held up pretty well once the outer coat was cured too. It just takes a good 3-4 days for epoxy to cure to maximum strength, and during that time, you need to ensure your pep model has enough support that it doesn't collapse or bend out of shape during the wait, or it will finish curing and stay that way. On the upside though, virtually no noxious fumes, and the surface of cured epoxy resin doesn't stay tacky like it tends to for polyester resin (well, it's a plus if you're not looking to do multiple layups). If you used a decent epoxy (I'm not sure what type you bought, but it doesn't sound like it was marine grade), that's the likeliest reason why the polyester didn't stick to it very well - polyester's adhesion properties aren't as good as epoxy's, and because epoxy's surface cures smooth and tack free, you would have to sand it with low-grit paper to give your model a much rougher surface for the polyester to adhere to, so it's better to simply not mix them.
    Last edited by Jersey13; Oct 5, 2012 at 3:12 PM.

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