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Thread: "Help!" for: Casting

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  1. "Help!" for: Casting

    This thread will contain general first hand knowledge of casting such as materials, methods, and techniques to get a workable model out of your molds.

    People who don't know: Post questions.

    People who know: Answer those questions.

    Please be as clear and detailed as possible with your questions and/or answers. Repeated questions or variations of certain questions may be consolidated over time into an FAQ section in the post following this one.

    Always ask and answer questions as if you were asking/answering your mother or grandmother. In other words, politely.

    Rudeness and/or impatience will be met with an infraction. You don't want too many of those.

    These threads are meant to reduce and hopefully eliminated the need for the numerous 'I need help threads' that seem to generate endlessly in this section of the forum.

    They are not a be all, end all to all questions that could ever be asked though. Some questions will be project specific and you may need to ask those IN the project's thread itself. However, some may not see your questions there so you may post a link to said project thread in the appropriate "Help!" thread when you need the attention of a few extra eyes.
    Last edited by 23Magnum; 08-20-2010 at 08:33 AM.

  2. FAQ Section:

  3. Tutorials that involve this thread's subject matter and are approved by the site staff will be linked in this post. Please review them as they may already contain the answers you seek.

    Tutorial Section:

  4. idont see any tutorials
    may you please post them

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Sale Cheshire
    Posts
    62
    waiting for new camera to arrive after her indoors dropping the other camera , done quite a bit on my suit so far and the chest and back is ready to cast .. looking at the smooth on products what would be better for shins and the torso pieces etc .. 65 d or 300 ( smooth cast )

    thanks

  6. #6
    When you finish your pull and have a piece made from smooth cast 320, roto, etc. how well do the parts take to sanding? I know ideally you should aim for a perfect buck before molding, but is ok to try to continue smoothing on a casted part?
    Freelance 3D Artist - Design Engineer
    Hi res / Low res models - Animation Rigs - 3D Printing - CNC files - File Conversions / Edits
    Please follow my work or contact me at AxiomUltra Designs

  7. #7
    as i have never used smooth cast products i'll try and answer the second part of your question. It would depend on how much sanding you have to do and what the reason is. if it because of a flaw from the molding process.. then yeah a bit of sanding is alright.. if its a flaw with the master then more work is needed on the master..

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Hugh Holder View Post
    When you finish your pull and have a piece made from smooth cast 320, roto, etc. how well do the parts take to sanding? I know ideally you should aim for a perfect buck before molding, but is ok to try to continue smoothing on a casted part?
    I agree with twistedxknights. If it's because of the master mold, then you should aim to have that mold sorted out.
    As for Smooth-cast 320, it's a dense enough plastic resin to be sanded but I would suggest using a fine grit (probably anything #100 upwards) followed by buffing blocks. The thing with Smooth-Cast 320 is that it's meant to be pigmented when it's first used - it's pretty much impossible to paint directly, as the smallest, softest scratch will cause the paint to lift straight off (I've seen this with a variety of paints, too)...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Atlanta Georgia
    Posts
    149
    Its not a good idea to mold a incomplete piece, but if you find with some issue in your cast ( i keep getting two noticable wrinkles on the left side of my helmet mold everytime )

    It is sandable but it sure feels like it takes longer to sand compared to body filler.

    I also concur with chantelle about painting a raw cast. I thought i would be clever to primer first then mold. End results: most paints did not work very well on the casts.

    You can either primer it or roughen the surface with a fine grit sanding sponge
    Last edited by this is haji; 09-21-2010 at 06:47 AM.

  10. #10
    Well, my question was leaning more towards the pre-painting aspect of the piece but thanks guys.

    I used Roto-65 and the stuff takes well to paint and sanding. It's actually easier to sand than the bondo imo, simply because I can get in the tight areas and sand by hand instead of relying on a mouse. I seem to get things accomplished quicker ^_^

    There is no issue with major details or symmetry, everything is good to go. Just minor surface issues that, when working with bondo and it's pitting habbit, seem to take forever to fix - which actually adds more refining time. Sanding on Roto seems faster and gets me where I want to be in the long run without all of the hassle.

    Thanks again for the advice guys.
    Freelance 3D Artist - Design Engineer
    Hi res / Low res models - Animation Rigs - 3D Printing - CNC files - File Conversions / Edits
    Please follow my work or contact me at AxiomUltra Designs

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