"Help!" for: Electronics

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  1. #851
    Quote Originally Posted by spartan 060 View Post
    I have no idea how to put LEDs into my halo 4 helmet spotlights I have a battery pack I gutted from a RC car I'm thinking of getting individual bulbs and attaching them to wires then the wires to the battery pack
    You can not necessarily just take any battery and hook it up to LEDs and expect them to work properly. You will first need to get your LEDs and find out what voltage they are rated for... then you will need to find out what voltage the RC car's battery pack is. You will then need to (most likely) put in the correct resistor to lower the voltage from the battery so as not to fry your LEDs. I would also suggest installing a two lead on/off rocker switch inline with your positive from the battery pack to the resistors/LEDs. If you need help figuring all this out.. give us a bit more information please (voltage of battery pack, how many LEDs and what they are rated at.

  2. #852
    " they're having us do projects of our own choice"
    I'm going to put a stereo amp into my helmet (to hear better), but I'm afraid of it amplifying loud sounds too much. So I've been looking for a Auto Gain Control circuit, to squelch the volume when needed, but haven't found one that meets my needs.
    How about that for a project?

  3. #853
    "i was going to wire up some LEDS soon but was curious as to what resistor i would need."

    May I recommend this site:
    http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=zz.led...tor.calculator

  4. #854
    Thinking about you guys . You could twist wires onto LEDs for your light project, but if you want a long term solution you HAVE to solder the wiring.

    This is the best soldering tutorial I have ever found. Way better then most college classes on the subject.


  5. #855
    Hey is anyone here Any good with building computer systems or writing code to make stuff work? I want to add a few things to the helmet for LCF purposes and but I lack the technical ability to do what I want. I've seen a few of you guys put cool looking comms attachments on your helmet and I was watching The Forgotten Spartans on YouTube (machinima) and one of the dudes had a com unit on one side and what looked like a projector on the other. I thought that would be cool to have a working com unit so if you go with buddy's you have Coms. And the projector would be near to display a map and set an objective or RV point if any one got lost. Idk if anyone can help let me know.

  6. #856
    @SgtPearce:

    I am an electronics Engineer...

    Com system isnt that complicated. You could buy a motorcycle com system and attach it inside your helmet. Done.

    I am not sure, what exactly you want to do with a projector. If you have a stationary map and want to point sth out. No problem.
    But if you have a map in your hand or even want a "display" inside your helmet like the real spartans... That would be really difficult and most of all very expensive. And I mean very very expensive.

  7. #857
    Quote Originally Posted by thatdecade View Post
    Thinking about you guys . You could twist wires onto LEDs for your light project, but if you want a long term solution you HAVE to solder the wiring.

    This is the best soldering tutorial I have ever found. Way better then most college classes on the subject.

    Thank you for this wonderful video!

  8. #858
    I destroyed another servo. I could use some ideas . . . .

    Repost from 1 March:

    On my Spartan Laser I used an RC aircraft landing gear retract servo to retract and extend the shroud. To do so, I removed the electronics from the servo and wired the motor directly using a DPDT switch to control direction and a limit switch to cut off power. The limit switch has proved less than reliable, leading to a burnt out servo motor. Is there a SIMPLE way to pulse the new servo and get it to do its business as intended without me gutting it and having to rely on my analog cutoff?
    Someone suggested buying a servo tester and gutting it for this functionality, but I believe those are geared for calibrating standard servos, not testing retracts.


    EDIT 27 Mar: I ordered up a pair (plus a spare) of mini servo testers hoping I can set one to deliver an open pulse (pulse length well above neutral) when powered and the other to deliver a close pulse (Pulse length well above neutral) when powered. I'll keep the DPDT switch to power/depower the two circuits and drive the unmodified servo. Anyone with actual RC or robotics experience please tell me why this will or won't work. Any tips or pointers would be welcome.

    Redshirt
    Last edited by Redshirt; Mar 27, 2014 at 9:04 AM.

  9. #859
    Wish I could help. I have used servos exactly once. I will say this on reversing the motion, shouldn't you be using an H-bridge to reverse the voltage to the motor?

  10. #860
    Quote Originally Posted by thatdecade View Post
    Wish I could help. I have used servos exactly once. I will say this on reversing the motion, shouldn't you be using an H-bridge to reverse the voltage to the motor?
    Thanks. I'm using a DPDT switch circuit to reverse direction and cutting power in one direction with a limit switch (raised) and cutting power in the lower position with the master power switch. I wiki'd H-Bridge, and believe that the DPDT meets the definition, but realize MOSFETs and other advanced tricks also meet the definition. I hope that by cannibalizing the two cheapie servo testers I can use the DPDT to send the distinct open and close signals to the servo via the signal wire and just wire the supply wires with constant power. I'll use an ammeter to make sure there's no draw at the limits to burn up the servo. Here's hoping it works . . . .

    Redshirt

  11. #861
    If I have two fans in my helmet, should I have one blowing in and one blowing out, both blowing in or both blowing out?

  12. #862
    Quote Originally Posted by Biggus Dickus View Post
    If I have two fans in my helmet, should I have one blowing in and one blowing out, both blowing in or both blowing out?
    It depends on the configuration of your helmet and the placement of your fans. Use whichever one creates the best airflow. Generally, one in and one out works best, but that is not always the case.

  13. #863
    Anyone have suggestions for LED panels, or lights. Been looking into getting some in my suit, I'm just not sure what gives the look. Thanks in advanced.

  14. #864
    Quote Originally Posted by SniperWolf View Post
    Anyone have suggestions for LED panels, or lights. Been looking into getting some in my suit, I'm just not sure what gives the look. Thanks in advanced.
    Think you could do anything with these?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/140937652171...84.m1423.l2649

    Might be able to use them for something. :P

  15. #865
    Check the video in my signature, dollar store reading lights are easy to work with. Diffuse them with any plastic you can get your hands on.
    http://youtu.be/sWDNHmNvvmA

    A step up from that are pre-wired LED pigtails that you can purchase on eBay. A 12 volt prewired LED will run on a common 9 volt battery.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-pcs-PRE-W...ff1aa3&vxp=mtr

    Lastly, the most hands on approach is a visit to radioshack or similar, and buy some LEDs, resisters, and battery clips. Then solder up the wiring to add to your suit. This thread has lots of discussion on what LEDs and resistor values to choose.
    http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/...054#post701054

    edit:
    Another eBay link. Pre wired LEDs, each with a 9volt battery clip. A little wasteful, as you can wire them yourself and run multiple LEDs on a single 9 volt battery. But this is a quick and dirty way to get your suit to light up.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-PRE-WIRED...item4ac114fc47
    Last edited by thatdecade; Jun 4, 2014 at 8:56 PM.

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