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Thread: Smooth Cast Products

  1. #1
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    Smooth Cast Products

    I am calling out anyone that has decent to great knowledge abot the smooth cast suff. I want to go this route to harden my pep pieces.

    Now, I know that Stealth made a video talking about the smoothcast 320 and 321. Now he said that the 321 is used for the outside and the 320 is used for the inside. However, he then mentioed that you can use the 321 for the inside and the outside if you decide to not get the 320. I want to know if the 320 can be used for the inside AND the outside of a pep piece?

    Also, there is this smooth-cast 300................can that be used the same way as the 320 and 321 or is that something entirely different?

    I plan on only getting one or the other so I want to know what will get me the best strength results if I go with just one type. I have the money to get the stuff, but can only get one kind, so what should I get??? The 300, 320, or the 321??

    With summer coming to an end and the weather getting cooler, I want to be able to still work on my stuff indoors and at least have it all hardened so that when it starts to warm up again, I can then bondo and paint my stuff!
    Getting back in armor building!
    Going to make my Hayabusa, FINALLY! I started it 4 years ago,
    it's about time I finish it.

    MY SCALE TUTORIAL HAS BEEN REVISED!

  2. #2
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    If you're worried about the weather being a problem with your bondo and resin not hardening I'm pretty sure that just adding more hardener should do the trick. It's been cooling down a bit here and I just resined a piece faster than usual by adding some more hardener to resin. And I have also done work in the fall. That's the great thing about bondo products is that if it's not right out in the cold it'll still work.

    I'm not sure if I answered you fully, so another more experienced member and chime in if they like!!

  3. #3
    Click the link in my sig for a video.
    Stealth use it on the outside using a very thin layer, but just the inside is fine. I recommend though using fiberglass resin on the outside first (one or two layers) and then roto casting the inside with 300 or 320. Both work great.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gallard View Post
    If you're worried about the weather being a problem with your bondo and resin not hardening I'm pretty sure that just adding more hardener should do the trick. It's been cooling down a bit here and I just resined a piece faster than usual by adding some more hardener to resin. And I have also done work in the fall. That's the great thing about bondo products is that if it's not right out in the cold it'll still work.

    I'm not sure if I answered you fully, so another more experienced member and chime in if they like!!
    I'm actually also looking into a NON toxic alternative since I have animals and I don't want the fumes around all the time. Not only that, I would have to buy more fiberglass resin AND then buy the smooth cast stuff. I'm not looking into spending that much money.

    Quote Originally Posted by JediStumpy View Post
    Click the link in my sig for a video.
    Stealth use it on the outside using a very thin layer, but just the inside is fine. I recommend though using fiberglass resin on the outside first (one or two layers) and then roto casting the inside with 300 or 320. Both work great.
    Well, as I said, I only plan to get one type, so if YOU could only get the 300 or 320, which would you prefer? Also I know the 320 has a pretty fast cure time, but I don't think I know the cure time for the 300. Do you know?

    Oh, and there is no link in your sig. XD lol
    Getting back in armor building!
    Going to make my Hayabusa, FINALLY! I started it 4 years ago,
    it's about time I finish it.

    MY SCALE TUTORIAL HAS BEEN REVISED!

  5. #5
    Well, I personally haven't used the 320 or 321, but I have used the 300 a few times. I LOVE the stuff. I also wanted a Non-toxic alternative, and a way to skip resining and fiberglassing all together.

    I poured the Smoothcast 300 directly into my pep models, with no reinforcement whatsoever. I was really careful, and mixed very small batches at first so that I could coat the entire piece before adding anymore weight. Depending on whether you do it indoors or outdoors, (and the temperature) It can take up to 10 minutes to fully cure. I did it outside a few times in 110 degree Kansas heat and it fully cured in about a minute lol. But even indoors, there is almost no smell at all, and like I said, about 10 minutes max fully cure time. And you can keep adding more layers to it. Only problem with my method, is that if your seams aren't sealed completely, it will leak through in places and drip out. I had a drop cloth underneath, and it didn't leak out a ton, but it is something to keep in mind. I have used scotch and/or normal masking tape to help seal it up, but it still normally drips a little bit when I miss something.

    Hope this helps some, but sorry that I have no knowledge of the other two. Though if I remember what I was reading, the only difference with the 320 is that it cures in about half the time or less.

  6. #6
    Once upon a time, the 405th Source used to be an electronic magazine (lol). I happen to have a copy of the March issue which has a complete step by step with pictures of how to slushcast armor with Smoothcast 300 and lots of pictures. It was also available on the website before the change. I know for a fact because when transferring from .PDF to a website guess who got to re-write everything? :P

    *blows the dust off the .PDF* Prepare yourself for 43 pages of awesome!

    http://filevo.com/4bhgsmycfrd0.html

    Cheers,
    Kensai
    Last edited by kensai111; 09-01-2010 at 03:13 AM.
    405th.com Multimedia Editor / Affiliates Representative

  7. #7
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    @PsHWilliam043 - Why thank you. That does help since I wasn't sure about the smoothcast 300. I also noticed that it costs a little bit more too. As for the dripping issue, I already figured that would happen and plan to have a tarp placed over the table that I wil be working on. hehe So does the 300 become pretty hard then? I just want to make sure that my finished armor will be nice and sturdy and won't crack or break anywhere while wearing it. I think it would be embarrassing to have my armor fall off! XD lol

    @Kensai111 - That's awesome! Too bad I need a password in order to access the file.
    Getting back in armor building!
    Going to make my Hayabusa, FINALLY! I started it 4 years ago,
    it's about time I finish it.

    MY SCALE TUTORIAL HAS BEEN REVISED!

  8. #8
    youll do just fine with either. the only thing i would stay away from is 325. we did some cold cast odst helmets and had some left over, so i played around with it. without the cold casting metal powders it cures in to more of an extremely hard gel layer, instead of that nice hard plastic feel.

  9. #9
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    That is a great question HaloGoddess! The reason that the 321 is used on the outside, is that it has a slower cure time than 320. Both 300 and 320 have very very fast cure times, so if you are trying to mix them and then brush them on, they will kick too fast to be effective, You can use 321 inside, but it will take a lot longer to cure than 320, and you will spend a lot of extra time slushing your part, and just waiting for it to kick. So, 321 outside, 320 or 300 inside. Hope that helps!!!

  10. #10
    I used 321 to slush cast the inside of my helmet, both shins and both forearms. It does cure a bit slower but after a minute of mixing I only roll the piece around for about 3-4 minutes per layer. Just pour the excess out, and make sure to tape up the ends having a nice hole to pour it into. According to the Smooth-on website the compressive strength of all 3 materials are the same (4500psi) with the 321 and 320 beating out the 300 in tensile strength by 100lbs (3000lbs vs. 3100lbs), strength wise they are about the same. I did about 5-7 layers each piece.

    300 and 320 have the same pot life (3 mins) while 321 is longer (10 mins). I haven't tried this but if you are able to brush on or apply in some way the material to the outside to make it semi-rigid you can do it. When sanding too dont worry if you go through the paper thats not a big deal as you will have quite a bit after it. Keep in mind the 320 and 321 are runny (a bit thicker than milk but no where as thick as maple syrup), the outside would need more than 1 layer. I would suggest also to only do part of the piece and let it dry before moving on to the other parts of that specific piece.

    I'm sure you know half of this already but just for the sake of being thorough its here. Good luck in what you choose hope this helps.

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