First Models

Swift · Sep 26, 2010

Hey, as you'll probably be able to tell whe nI finally get my pictures up, this is the first time I've ever done anything like this. I decided last week I wanted to get a stormtrooper outfit, and after a few hours of googling I came across methods of making armour. A few clicks later a voila, I'm at the 405th! I came to the decision pretty damn quickly that it would be so much more awesome to make my own suit then by one of those expensive Master Chief ones that wouldn't fit me.

AT the kmoment I'm working on the M6_Magnewm pistol (as supplied in the 405th stockpile of files) as a starting point. Stupid me didn't realise how difficult making a smaller weapon was... so many small pieces D: Doesn't help that I'm don't have the proper equipment - ;m going to acquire that later for my next project (probably a Battle Rifle) - or that I got mountain and valley folds mixed up xD

Over the coming (Australian) summer holidays I'm looking to make my first custom Spartan suit, and I've been making a list of what parts I like best. I'm probably gonna try my hand at a simpler suit first, so I was wondering if there's any tips people were willing to supply me with?

I'll put pictures up here once my pistol starts looking like... a pistol. Or a weapon at all really. Three hours this afternoon got me a quarter of it done

But hey, that's what practice is for...

Sumofl · Sep 26, 2010

Usually, people don't really recommend weaponry as a start off in this world. Though I, as well, have ignored those recommendations and built a knife, I'll have a WIP up when I've got the materials for resining(So I don't have a long time between the posts)

Start small with the suit, there's scaling to deal with and a bunch of tutorials on how to do that just a search away. There's a whole bunch of things you'll need to get to start, and here they are.

Swift · Sep 26, 2010

Thanks man, I was looking for a list like that

Yeah, I had the silly idea that a small weapon would be easier to make then a big one, or armour, but all the folds are so tiny, and a lot of the numbers overlap

Swift · Sep 28, 2010

Okay, looking at other 405th members' pepping skills I realise just how far I have to go... Here's some pics from the last 3 days.

What I got done yesterday. As you can see, due to my intial confsuion over mountain and valley folds, the chamber for the magazine is a bit... wrong. The magazine doesn't fit. I might make a scaled down version of it later, but I don't see how it would have fit without initial scaling anyway.

What I got done today - obviously I need to clean up the back end A LOT and glue the other side on.

I also learnt a valuable lesson - never use anything under 200g/m^2 paper for the pepping. I've been using 165g/m^2 as that was all we had. We'll be going to Bunnings and Officeworks (hopefully tomorrow) and picking up all the materials I need for resinning, bondoing, sanding and painting, along with 200g/m^2 paper.

Also - NEED a hot glue gun. Spreading it on with a popstick is a terrible, messy way of doing it, and it takes far too long to dry.

Moe photos coming once I get the resin done :3

Swift · Sep 29, 2010

Why did no-one tell me HOW AWSOME glue guns are? It's like heaven compred to my stupid popstick and glue! I reglued some of my old folds and glued on the final piece, but it looks a tad wierd... hopefully I can cover it up with the bondo filler later. No resinning today, so I've decided to try my luck with a Scout helmet for the suit I'm going to make.

leet · Sep 30, 2010

the wep looks alot better then my first go at it.(dont drink and pep... and 2 years ago) i ended up scrapping it and havent tryed a wep since... i did print out the new HD one the other day. ran out of ink on the last page and i cant find my ink... i have done 2 full suits(one mess up and 1 ok lookin one... gonna make reach after halloween.) best of luck finishing everything. and heavy paper works alot better... i use 110pound(beleave its 240g/m paper...)get the thickest paper u can get. some people use red/blue pens when glueing to make sure they get valey folds right... valley blue mountain red(or whatever color u have... also helps to fold the paper)

Swift · Oct 1, 2010

Yeah, I use brown for mountain folds, and green for valley folds. 110lb paper is the same as 199g/m^2. I just got mixed with which way a valley fold and mountain fold goes, as stupid as that sounds xD
Pics coming once I finish pepping my helmet, as I'm going to be resinning them at the same time.

leet · Oct 1, 2010

it looks good tho... i get confused myself first time i am building a new piece... to make it worse one of the knife files i had half the folds were backwards...(the ... line was both v and m folds...)

Swift · Oct 1, 2010

Man that would suck, and on such a hard piece as a knife. Seriously, I think pepakura just sabotages whatever it can when we're not looking xD

Swift · Oct 4, 2010

Well, since I started my helmet's resinning today (http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/28355-Mark-VI-Scout-(First-build)), I started my Magnum as well. The magazine is still incredibly large (as is the helmet), but I can redo that later. Pics when I finish the resinning process (hopefully tomorrow).

I still need to buy some primer, but oither then that I'm all set for what I've got to do.

durge · Oct 4, 2010

That's pretty impressive so far! But how do you get weapons to hold their shape? Is there a fiberglassing process on them like there is on armor?

Ehekky · Oct 4, 2010

Great to see other N00b like me, good luck with your MC armor

Swift · Oct 4, 2010

durge said:
That's pretty impressive so far! But how do you get weapons to hold their shape? Is there a fiberglassing process on them like there is on armor?

Thanks for the compliment! Under most circumstances, you'll cut a whole in the weapon and fill the inside of the model with Rondo. I coiuldn't actually be bothered doing that, so I'm just fiberglassing it, one bit at a time. If you do it all at once there's more chance of warpage. SO I did one side yesterday, and I'm going to do the other side this morning, and hopefully have all of it done by this evening.

Ehekky said:
Great to see other N00b like me, good luck with your MC armor

Thanks for the support man, appreciate it

Swift · Oct 6, 2010

I've finished the resinning, and I can now see why many people choose to fill the inside of their models with rondo. The warping was TERRIBLE, much worse then on my helmet (http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/28355-Mark-VI-Scout-(First-build)). It's pretty clear i nthe second picture, but that's not the only place it happened. Just another flaw of low-grade paper... and the victim of noobiness xD

I'll start the bondoing after I finish it on my helmet, so updates then

Swift · Nov 10, 2010

Well, exams are starting next week, so there'll be absolutely no progress here for a while, and in the meantime I'm probably just going to be focusing on my suit.
I've also decided I'm going to make an Assault or Battle Rifle before the pistol (and that I'm going to Remake with proper paper, and rondo <_<). I'll make a seperate topic for those, but I won't be starting those till after the armour (or if I get annoyed with the armour for a while).

Anyway, my armour (http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/28355-Mark-VI-Scout-(First-build)/page3) will probably hold more interest for now.

Enjoy and be awesome

Swift · Nov 18, 2010

Well, I bought an Air Blasters Double Shot today, which is basically a Nerf Double Barrel Shotgun, but a different brand. Being a toy, it was all those silly colours, and I decided to make it a little more awesome. My next thought was "Hey! Why not make it the same paint scheme as my armour will be?" So that's what I did!
Here's some pics:

Colour scheme to begin with (taken AFTER I sprayed the first side <_<)

First layer of dark grey

Second layer of tan, plus some mottled green dabbed in

I used the toothpaste method in order to remove the tan. It didn't work so well in some areas, but I'm sure I can redo it.
The green looks a bit ikky because it's a five-or-so year old tin dad found in the shed. I have a newer tin (bought wit hthe spray paint) in my room, but I'm sving that for my armour. I had already decided on the green, but couldn't decide where to do it. Luckily there were some places the paint had rubbed off, so it seemed logial tro cover that up.

Truth be told I'm going to use this when I dress up as Jayne (from Firefly) saturday week (my friend's having a 'J' themed party, gotta dress up as someone starting with J). It may not work too well with my long hair and all, but I don't thing anyone will mind once I shoot them a few times.

Also, I'm going to be wearing roller skates 8D

union131 · Dec 4, 2010

im making a magnum, AR, and maybe a sniper. i think it will come out nicely ill post pics when its done. o and one question should i fiberglass the weapon after its done?

MAGGOT9324 · Dec 4, 2010

painting a toy gun is a pain, i spent about 2 weeks painting a toy pirate gun i got at disneyland, i painted it brown with some red(mixing colors is a pain lol) and then i painted a logo on the handled and used a sticker i cut as a stencil. it came out great but it broke cause it use to make noises and now it doesnt and the paint is wearing off some places so ill repaint it eventully but good job on yours

Swift · Dec 4, 2010

union131 said:
im making a magnum, AR, and maybe a sniper. i think it will come out nicely ill post pics when its done. o and one question should i fiberglass the weapon after its done?

Rondo is the preferred option, on the outside. What I'mn going to try is an AR, which I will stuff with plastic backs to bursting point, then resin the outside, then the inside, then rondo. This should help stop the warpage I had in my magnum, hopefully.

MAGGOT9324 said:
painting a toy gun is a pain, i spent about 2 weeks painting a toy pirate gun i got at disneyland, i painted it brown with some red(mixing colors is a pain lol) and then i painted a logo on the handled and used a sticker i cut as a stencil. it came out great but it broke cause it use to make noises and now it doesnt and the paint is wearing off some places so ill repaint it eventully but good job on yours

Yeah, it can be a pain depending on the mode being used. If it's a normal plastic painted already then your paint will have issues sticking. In that case you're meant to sand or sandblast the original layer off. Thankfully the PLASTIC was dyed in my case, not painted, so there were no issues for me.

xlasernoobsx · Dec 12, 2010

The Magnum looks great, too bad about warping. Hopefully you can fix it. I always wanted to try pepping a Magnum, but never got around to it because of the difficulty.

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