Does that mean after the FG has cured, say 24hrs?
haven't figured out where I might use space filler foam yet.
Foam Armoring
- Thread starter BenStreeper
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Does that mean after the FG has cured, say 24hrs?
haven't figured out where I might use space filler foam yet.
SteelSpartan
Jr Member
I'm still new at modifying the pepakura models (removing parts and everything)... so if anyone can put their pep file online for foam armor... I would not say no to them...
Zat German
Member
Harbor Freight only sells them in-store, not online. Next cheapest price I have found is from [I removed this because the seller is has rip off shipping now to cheat the price up]. Just keep in mind, these are 3/8" thick while the Harbor Freight ones are 1/2". It is kind of nice that you can get these in black. I may pick up a set from here for the thigh ridges.
SteelSpartan
Jr Member
Walmart is also a nice place to go... found some at Canadian tire (yes I live in Canada) but the had a diamond plate motif on them... then went to walmart, and they were around 10$ us
hopes it helps
hopes it helps
the wesellmats place cheats though in its pricing sure they are the cheapest in price but then charge you $15 in shipping so it comes out to 4-5 dollars more then just going to wal-mart, though thier larger sqft packages may work out to being a better deal, but thier lowest price one isnt
Zat German
Member
That is disappointing. It was not like that a week or two ago. I wonder if they have had an uptick in purchases and changed it.
jks soccer
Member
I'm doing foam armor as well and I've dealt a little with modifying pepakura files, actually I did a lot of unfolding for a while. I may create a new thread for editing the templates if enough people think it would be beneficial. Anybody have thought's on that?
Yes, I'd definitely like to see your modified files. please!
For those in Australia, a couple of us have seen them in Bunnings and in Supercheap Auto. Camping stores like Anaconda and I believe BCF and Down Under Camping also sell them. I'm pretty sure the cheap variety stores have a cheaper coloured kids version which is going to be only about 8-9mm thick, but is fine for small pieces.
I can say I've picked up some from Supercheap, and the quality is excellent.
For those in Australia, a couple of us have seen them in Bunnings and in Supercheap Auto. Camping stores like Anaconda and I believe BCF and Down Under Camping also sell them. I'm pretty sure the cheap variety stores have a cheaper coloured kids version which is going to be only about 8-9mm thick, but is fine for small pieces.
I can say I've picked up some from Supercheap, and the quality is excellent.
Shaymin Sky
Well-Known Member
please do. That would be a great help to many of us.
Aultin
Member
This looks great. I may actually finish what I start if I use this method. Looks much easier than full pep and fiberglassing. Can't wait until the rest of the tutorials are out so I can get a more firm grasp on the process.
Also, to the fellow who proposed he would make a foam pep tutorial thread, I would love for you to do so, and, if possible, post a link to it in this thread, as I will probably end up missing it. If that's OK with the OP of course.
Also, to the fellow who proposed he would make a foam pep tutorial thread, I would love for you to do so, and, if possible, post a link to it in this thread, as I will probably end up missing it. If that's OK with the OP of course.
jks soccer
Member
To those who do want me to make a thread of modified peps: Please understand that they will just be the modified 2d templates. I am not making any new custom templates mainly because, well, I can't. I'll start with Rundown's files and then take requests, and I'll post the thread as soon as I finish the chest plate.
BenStreeper
Well-Known Member
I'll upload you a new video tomorrow, you don't actually have to modify the file, you just don't use all the parts
project phoenix
Member
this thread is a win! don't know what we would do without guys like this.
Aultin
Member
Can't wait, but do you find this process easier than traditional Pep, and is it as durable?
Also, I can't remember if you stated it in one of your videos, but will there be a video on a strengthening process?
Zat German
Member
I did some glue and tear tests yesterday and the hot glue plus foam is extremely strong. If you glue the textured sides of the Harbor Freight mats together, they really do not want to come apart. You can tear the smooth sides apart if you try hard but I do not foresee the bond coming apart under normal wear and tear.
Also, I cannot recommend a Hot Knife more strongly. It makes cutting the foam a dream and produces very clean edges. The one in the picture below is a Dremel VersaTip. You can also see a paint test with Krylon Fusion and a Plasti-Dip primer.
Aultin
Member
Thanks, and does this cost significantly less or more than traditional Pep? It seems the process is much easier and can take much less time to complete.
Zat German
Member
The Hot Knife was $22 at Amazon but you could go with regular utility blades, though this material is supposed to dull blades quite a bit faster. You are going to need to buy foam mats for material which are currently on sale at Harbor Freight for $9 for four 2'x2' mats. I believe I read in timecon's thread that it takes 2 mats for a Halo Reach chest. Hot glue gun and glue are cheap and you should have them anyway. Spray on or liquid Plasti-Dip is $6 at Home Depot. I am including this since this is what preps the surface for painting and you would not need it for pep+hardener methods.
Once you start adding bondo, resin and fiberglass for each piece, I believe the pep+hardener methods get more expensive than foam.
However, keep in mind the foam building method is quite new to the United States(cosplayers in Japan and the Philippines have been using it for quite some time). I have been doing some research into it and it looks like it really started up around May of this year over at the Replica Prop Forums but it has only come into its own around July-August. Because it is so new, there is not a ton of information out there like for resin, bondo, rondo, etc. So you are going to have to be able to think on your feet and develop your own techniques. Also, if making molds is a big deal to you, you can forget about that with foam armor.
Aultin
Member
Alright, I think I may give foam armor a try then. It seems like a fairly fun method to use and I would rather not have to delve into the Resin and Bondo. This is essentially my first project, after I had failed at completing an earlier one maybe a year ago.
Thanks for the help.
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