Crunch's Jun/Scout Helmet-FINISHED (Hot Glue Method)

sik1276 · Nov 20, 2010

For last Halloween, my friend of mine requested that I do a Jun Helmet for him.
Here's the pep build
*WALL-EEE*

Like many others, I'm not a big fan (or even allowed to use anything of the like) of hazardous vapors. My last helmet was a Mark IV Helmet which I made out of paper mache. There were several problems with that, the mess and mainly warping, so for this one, I decided to experiment with hot glue. I bought a $10 skillet at Michael's and $10 worth of hot glue sticks at Wal-mart. I think the skillet wasn't hot enough or I took too long to apply because it didn't apply evenly or quite smooth to the inside. But I have to say, aside from some hot glue on the skin (Yeow!), almost no warping and it's very sturdy although it's like 2 to 3 times heavier than my paper mache helmet.

And here's the painting process. I kinda fudged up on the weathering part. I wanted a hot rod kind of look and was trying to add a big white stripe down the middle but used the wrong paint and when I tried to wipe it away, it gave a cool exposed metal look so I guess that was okay. One $15 visor, $5 1-ft of speaker cloth for padding, and it's done. I really had to add padding for this one because the visor pinches on the head.

At the end of it all, my friend didn't want the helmet which was a big "whatthejib" to me. I had to threw away my paper mache armor for various reasons, space being the main one, but I still kept the helm. Now, I'm kinda taking a break (got really tired of armor and scaling), but I have a Reach Noble Six helmet pepped, but I'm also looking toward some non-Halo stuff as a change of pace.

Roadkiller · Nov 20, 2010

This is excellent!

Great use of materials.

sik1276 · Nov 20, 2010

Roadkiller said:
This is excellent!

Great use of materials.

Thanks! With each project, I try to experiment with new materials to try to find alternatives to resin and fiberglass. For the Noble Six helmet, I might try the expanding foam,; I heard some good and bad thing about it though.

HeavyDutyART · Nov 20, 2010

wow! it turned out very smooth for no bondo work done to it. On a scale of 1-10 how was the pepping? it doesn't look to hard which means i might look into this after i'm done with my odst.

sik1276 · Nov 20, 2010

HeavyDutyART said:
wow! it turned out very smooth for no bondo work done to it. On a scale of 1-10 how was the pepping? it doesn't look to hard which means i might look into this after i'm done with my odst.

I would say a 8. The only problem I had was the "Wall-E" eyes (that's how i see it) on top of the visor because I had to keep pushing them to get it together and probably the lower vents because the part surrounding it is quite skinny on the top and bottom.

Chambs007 · Nov 20, 2010

Well thanks to you I now know my next full suit I will be making.

Hickeydog · Nov 20, 2010

Wow. That looks nice. Very good work.

If you can't work with toxic materials, but can go on a spending spree, you can use Smooth-Cast 321 in much the same way as you would use resin. Plus, you can use it to harden the piece. A gallon kit (actually makes 2 gallons) costs about $100 shipped in the US, and that's more than enough to do a whole suit. You coat the outside like you would with resin (to seal the piece), and then pour some inside to cast it like one would do with Rondo. It's non-toxic (although it does smell a little bit when it's wet) and easy to work with. Plus, a few layers of this stuff is STRONG!!!!

sik1276 · Nov 20, 2010

Hickeydog said:
Wow. That looks nice. Very good work.

If you can't work with toxic materials, but can go on a spending spree, you can use Smooth-Cast 321 in much the same way as you would use resin. Plus, you can use it to harden the piece. A gallon kit (actually makes 2 gallons) costs about $100 shipped in the US, and that's more than enough to do a whole suit. You coat the outside like you would with resin (to seal the piece), and then pour some inside to cast it like one would do with Rondo. It's non-toxic (although it does smell a little bit when it's wet) and easy to work with. Plus, a few layers of this stuff is STRONG!!!!

Thanks for the suggestion, but money is a bit tight for me, still haven't looked for a job yet

unless there's a trial kit.

But there's a store called TAP Plastics near my college. I don't know if they stock it, but I'll check that as an option

PS: I suspect anything wet will smell lol

ventrue · Nov 20, 2010

sik1276 said:
PS: I suspect anything wet will smell lol

Nope. I don't know about this urethane-based stuff everybody uses, but I know that my epoxy almost doesn't smell at all. If you are close to it, you can smell a faint plastic-like odor (for all the other safety-gurus: Yes, I did wear the right respirator, but I wanted to know), but looking at the whole room you can't smell that it's been used.

Anyways, the helmet looks really nice!

sik1276 · Nov 20, 2010

That's very good to know. I was always curious about the vapors and if they would still linger and the anything wet will smell was a joke like "wet dog" or "the first rain of the season" kind of deal

Zat German · Nov 20, 2010

Hickeydog said:
If you can't work with toxic materials, but can go on a spending spree, you can use Smooth-Cast 321 in much the same way as you would use resin. Plus, you can use it to harden the piece. A gallon kit (actually makes 2 gallons) costs about $100 shipped in the US, and that's more than enough to do a whole suit. You coat the outside like you would with resin (to seal the piece), and then pour some inside to cast it like one would do with Rondo. It's non-toxic (although it does smell a little bit when it's wet) and easy to work with. Plus, a few layers of this stuff is STRONG!!!!

Smooth Cast 321 is NOT non-toxic before it cures. This is a huge fallacy that keeps being repeated on this forum and really needs to be nipped in the bud. Read the MSDS. The Methylene bisphenyl isocyanate has extremely hazardous vapors and repeated exposure can cause depressed lung function and you can become allergic to it. Unless you like the idea of straight up dropping dead(seriously, extreme allergic reaction results in death, look up the stuff) after using enough of the stuff, use a respirator until it is cured.

sik1276 · Nov 20, 2010

Zat German said:
Smooth Cast 321 is NOT non-toxic before it cures. This is a huge fallacy that keeps being repeated on this forum and really needs to be nipped in the bud. Read the MSDS. The Methylene bisphenyl isocyanate has extremely hazardous vapors and repeated exposure can cause depressed lung function and you can become allergic to it. Unless you like the idea of straight up dropping dead(seriously, extreme allergic reaction results in death, look up the stuff) after using enough of the stuff, use a respirator until it is cured.

Just read it. Looks like I'm avoiding this option also until I can afford a respirator or actually be sure I get the right one. Every time I go to Home Depot, the employees try to assure that a fiberglass particulate/dust respirator will work and also, I've seen on TV shows people working on auto body repair work without one, outdoors. But anyways, personally while I understand all the safety standards and such, I just avoid all the toxic stuff because it's a hassle for me to find everything right and I really don't want to be a potential danger to anyone else, too.

ventrue · Nov 20, 2010

Zat German said:
Smooth Cast 321 is NOT non-toxic before it cures. This is a huge fallacy that keeps being repeated on this forum and really needs to be nipped in the bud. Read the MSDS. The Methylene bisphenyl isocyanate has extremely hazardous vapors and repeated exposure can cause depressed lung function and you can become allergic to it. Unless you like the idea of straight up dropping dead(seriously, extreme allergic reaction results in death, look up the stuff) after using enough of the stuff, use a respirator until it is cured.

Damn. I remember writing that myself only a few hours ago...

And I also know from whom I picked it up, but I'm not going to discredit him here because he's done great work otherwise.

Zat German · Nov 20, 2010

ventrue said:
And I also know from whom I picked it up, but I'm not going to discredit him here because he's done great work otherwise.

Yeah, I think I know who you are talking about because I believe he is also who made me think it was safe at first. No need to name names.

I am not looking forward to having to shave when I get a helmet finished and need to harden it with my Smooth-Cast either. Cannot have facial hair when using a respirator. :/

spartanb312 · Dec 27, 2010

good helmet and good way to harden out

Trooper114 · Dec 27, 2010

I tried this but it didn't work to well for me, but it looks like it worked amazingly for you, good job

cory045 · Dec 28, 2010

since my family cant use fiberglass (genetics) im glad i found this thread

Road Kill · Dec 28, 2010

wow! man bvery nice job on the Jun helmet and it seemed like you finished the helmet pretty fast too

BUBBENSTEIN · Feb 6, 2011

this is nice! Better than I thought the Hot glue method was gonna look

geoat2t · Feb 6, 2011

it came out pretty kool

Crunch's Jun/Scout Helmet-FINISHED (Hot Glue Method)

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Jr Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Member

Well-Known Member

Member

Sr Member

Member

Jr Member

Similar threads

Similar threads