odst hybrid build

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n1njqch1cken

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ODST hybrid build (WIP)

hey everyone, as you may have guessed from the title, this is my hybrid build!

chapter one, a bit of a backstory-
i have just recently finished pepping one odst chest, two odst forearms, one odst shoulder and one odst helmet when i released that fibreglass is really expenisvewhere i live, and i can't get it shipped because it adds a GIANT extra fine on top of the shipping for a dangerous goods charge. i have realised, in order to obtain odst armour, i must change my ways....

chapter two, current time-
i shut down the thread for the old build, and all the pepakura work is going on the shelf, for refference in order to build my new armour, except the helmet, which i will fork out the money to mudglass....

here are some pics of the good times (not!!!) i had assembling the armor, before it was rendered redundant by fiberglass costs... (once again, except the helmet.)
5211105820_a2172a62d1.jpg
SDC10395 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

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SDC10393 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

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SDC10384 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

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SDC10383 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

(my old setup)

4893036495_6f810739f1.jpg
P8080031 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

and, for future refference in this post, the chest

4893630596_f35e32af68.jpg
P8080011 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

continued next post....
oh, the lovely html code taking up my typing space... anyway, here is the plan,
 

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ok, here's the plan (each piece described individually)

THE HELMET- i am forking out the money to have this mudglassed, i love it so much..5210507851_d2bbee9f12_m.jpg
SDC10394 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

THE CHEST- this will be made from alluminium, as you can see from the picture, it is composed mainly of strips of paper, i will replicate this with strips of metal, a drill and LOTS OF POP RIVETS!!

THE SHOULDER- this will be made from alluminium. the assembled shoulder will serve as a sizing/shaping refference, while the uncut, unassembled one, still in its 2d form, will serve as a plan for the alluminium one

THE FOREARMS- made from alluminium, there will be essentially two slanting cylinders, the inner and the outer, joined together by a rounded cuff. the elbow part of it and the raised detail will be made seperatly and attached later.

THE MAIN TORSO/TUMMY(love that word)- my tactical jacket (insert pic here)
4848028594_d5183fdafa.jpg
P8010020 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

it fits the profile of the odst torso fine, withe the shoulder straps, shotgun shell holder and tac pockets

THIGHS/KNESS/SHINS- these will be made of foam, i have not pepped them yet, so apart from some awesome reference pics, im going blind. i am making these as the reach odst shins/knees/thighs.




questions?
 

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definitley custom, i haven't decided but it will still be odst esque, lots of cool additions like little emblems. i will make it relatively new because in my books, damaged armor is crappy armor, but still looks badass, so there will be a bit of weathering and definitley muddy boots/legs :)

i'll think about it and get back to you eventually with a design


mudmap:

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top by dan4dan4, on Flickr
5210781241_9eaf63c4c2.jpg
right by dan4dan4, on Flickr
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left by dan4dan4, on Flickr
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back by dan4dan4, on Flickr5210781159_5b982694a2.jpg
Capture by dan4dan4, on Flickr



design will stay virtually the same throughout the whole suit, except there will be a few assorted customisation things going on aswelll :)



update: as soon as the chrissy holidays start, which is next week, i'll go out and buy the stuff (almost splodes with excitementt!!) and pop thinks it should be done in around 1 week solid working together, although i'm adding a whole two week more for the paint job, i want to do a good job, and also 1 more again for customisation like lights and disco balls. i think it will be done in at least 5 weeks, that gives me four more to have fun in it :) !!!! btw i might be getting foam today!
 

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What thickness/grade of aluminum are planning on using, and are you just going to be dishing it or are you planning on welding as well? I've built lots of SCA armor out of 6160, but I've never tried the more malleable costume stuff, mostly because I don't know anything about it. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out :)
 
I see your using the lowdef shoulders. Bad Idea. they are very inaccurate to the actual ones and are scaled to small. the HD shoulders are best but need to be scaled down by 10%
 
@optimuswang i'm not sure what grade of metal yet, or thickness, i'm going down to the store to pick up supplies on the first day of holidays, that is the day i will deside. probably something strong, but easy enough to bend to shape because i'm only using metal for basic parts of the armor that are almost devoid of detail :)

@adam4472 i'm not doing the hot glue method because all builds i have seen using that have been very short term suits that don't last at all, plus fibreglass doesn't sand and with my pep work, there will be alot of that :S

@AI blue fox i see what you mean, i'll download the hd model soon and use that for reference instead while i'm making them out of metal

@jester1014 ty! it is very basic at this point, i don't think to much about painting untill i actually have the armor in front of me :p
 
sorry bout the double post, edits take to long

What about smoothcast? is that real expensive to bring in? It's not toxic like fiberglass.

it's not the fibreglass thats the hazard, it's the resin. it can spontaniuosly combust in the right conditions so the fine is huge for transport
 
hey guys, quick question, my sister wants an odst helmet and so do a few friends. would it be easier to pep and fibreglass and bondo a few more helmets or would it be easier to make a mould and cast a few copies???

also, a question i'm asking in the allum thread as well, can i solder allum??
 
have no experience with pep and fiberglass etc. but as far as soldering alu I'd have to say that it's a bad idea to just solder it, you'd be better off using soldering as a base and then use something else to strengthen the soldering. Soldering tin is really soft and thus easy to break. + it's hard to get the solderlines smooth on large areas.
 
I asume you are trying to join the aluminium together. Try and get a butane torch, a welding glove and a stick of aluminium. With the butane torch heat up the 2 edges of the join for a couple of seconds then with the end of the Al stick lightly rub it across the join till the Al starts to melt. repeat process till join is filled in.

p.s. practice on some scrap aluminium.

p.p.s. insted of using solder try adding tabs to 1 side of the join and spot welding the join together on those tabs.

p.p.p.s. these are just my thoughts, you don't have to use them at all.
 
build looks amazing so far, why not use Duct Plating?
It's really maillable, it's light and cheap.
I found a pretty big piece for $5.00 at Home Depot or a home improvement store.
 
thanks for the replies all :) i was gettin scared people had moved on since i haven't done much, construction starts tomorrow!!!! (holidays!!!!)

@madsvg if soldering is a bit week, i'll stick with pop rivets, but would soldering be ok for adding small raised details like the one on the odst forearm? (i'll post a pic)

4893633580_83c3573fcd.jpg
P8100034 by dan4dan4, on Flickr

@ballzy my reply is pretty much the same as above, if soldering is to weak and i need to buy a welder, then i'll stick with pop rivets :)

@milkyvengence hehe thanks, although most of the things i have pepped will not be used as armor, only as reference when i start making the real pieces out of foam/metal. but my helmet that i am ever so proud of ( :) ) will be fibreglassed and bondo'd
 

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I think it should be able to fasten the parts as long as you remember to rough up the fastening area a bit so the solder has something to "hold on to" AND you do it the whole way around the part. As long as the part's not going to move it should be fine.
But pop-rivets might be a good way to strengthen it + look cool ^^
 
@monk1junk1 yeh pop rivets should work fine. How about use the tabs idea i had 4 posts up and pop rivet the tabs. Then instead of using a welder you could use that liquid nails stuff that carpenters use, or try using liquid weld to fill in the gap between the join. Then once you done that and waited for it to dry, you could sand paper or dremal the join down to give it a nice finish.
 
yeah, i'm trying to find a body filler that will expand and contract with the allum because if i use bondo, the bondo will crack. BTW im off school now, it is time to go supply shopping!!!!!!
 
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