Cold Evil123 Custom-Multiplayer Halo 3 Build WIP

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coldevil123

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Greetings 405th! To begin my post, I should probably provide some back story of how I decided to pursue this project.

I went over to a friend's house (I'm working on this project with him) and saw that he had made two Halo 3 helmets, the CQB and EVA. I asked about them, and he told me how he had made them. He also showed me another helmet he was working on, the Mark 5B. This helmet was in the pep stage, and was pretty close to being done. He asked if I wanted to work on it, and I gladly agreed. His first helmets were only paper, resin, and paint, so they looked pretty bad. We decided to go through the proper steps to make this new project look good. We then had the genius idea to make ourselves full suits of armor. He had decided to make a Noble Six suit, and I wanted to make my character from Halo 3, pictured below.



As of now, we are on the Bondo and sanding stage of the Mark 5B helmet. I have begun work on the Halo 3 Scout helmet, and it is currently fully pepped. The current plan is to finish my Halo 3 suit first, then work on his Noble Six suit. Below is a picture of the Scout helmet so far. I'll try you all as updated as I can as we progress through this project.

Does anyone else think the helmet looks a bit too big? Also, I can try to get a picture of our Mark 5B helmet if anyone wants.





These are just quick low-def pieces I made out of regular 20 lb paper to get the scale correct.



I'd like to know what you all think so far, and if you have any pointers for me as I advance my way to success,
 
The helmet does look a little large, but before you go thru the trouble of rebuilding another one, you can build the torso part, put it on along with the helmet and see if it still looks to big compared with the armor, if your happy with it then stay with your current helmet but if you still look like a bobble head then scale it down some, my guess is its going to still look a little on the large side, I built the same helmet a while back and had the same problem, even though I scaled it to the size my head required it still looked large. but I have to say you did a really grat job on the peping, just take your time with the bondo stages and you will end up with a work of art
 
Alright, I'll go ahead and try that. Now I'm questioning whether or not I scaled the chest properly; hopefully that doesn't turn out too big either. Thanks for your compliment on the pepping, although there were a few misaligned spots that I had to correct but cutting a little slice of paper out. Hopefully the chest turns out just as good or even better. I'll probably get started on that today and have it done some time next week. I'm busy for the next couple weeks so I won't be as updated as I hope I can be.
 
Looking good so far. I'd like to see where you go with this one, so keep us posted.
 
Looks good, i'd keep some concern about the helmet clipping the torso when you turn your head however.
Nawww, i want a couch full of pep like that one :(
 
Update Time!

After almost a week of 12-8:30 band rehearsals, I nearly got my chest piece pepped all the way. I feel that it fits me very well; what do you guys think?





I also think that the helmet is indeed too large, anyone agree? I think I am going to make it 15 mm shorter, and that should work. Unfortunately I'm at camp for the next week, so I won't be getting any work done, although I should have the chest done by the end of next Saturday.

Also note: High-Temp hot glue guns are hot! I blistered my finger after sticking it in a pile of molten glue. (Don't ask, it was a good idea at the time)
 
The chest looks like its perfect and ya the helm looks larger than it should be haha.

And a tip...use super glue instead of hot glue...it doesn't burn you, doesn't blister your fingers, and doesn't use electricity =P
 
I'm probably going to continue to use hot glue, seeing as I have a LOT of it, and zero super glue. I'll just stick to the low-temp gun and not stick my finger directly in the stuff.
 
Now that I'm back from band camp, I can get back to work during the next couple weeks. Unfortunately, school starts soon too. As an update, I finished the chest piece (can't get a pic right now) and I am starting to do the Hyabusa permutation. Question: When adding the Hyabusa on top of the MK VI chest, do I resin/fiberglass the chest piece, then put the Hyabusa on it, or do I leave it all as paper and attach it, without any hardening at all? If you don't understand what I mean, I can try to re-word it if you want.
 
Now that I'm back from band camp, I can get back to work during the next couple weeks. Unfortunately, school starts soon too. As an update, I finished the chest piece (can't get a pic right now) and I am starting to do the Hyabusa permutation. Question: When adding the Hyabusa on top of the MK VI chest, do I resin/fiberglass the chest piece, then put the Hyabusa on it, or do I leave it all as paper and attach it, without any hardening at all? If you don't understand what I mean, I can try to re-word it if you want.

The way I did it for my Hayabusa build was first I hardened my MKVI chest piece, I then added the Hayabusa chest perm to the hardened MKVI chest while it was still paper, I taped the Busa perm where I wanted it to fit, then hardened it directly on top of the MKVI chest, once its dry, hardened it the normal way you harden your parts, you should be able to lift it off the chest piece to get to the backside of the perm for hardening, If this is all hard to understand just look on my busa build in my signature, there should be some pics on how I did the chest sections, hope this helps
 
The way I did it for my Hayabusa build was first I hardened my MKVI chest piece, I then added the Hayabusa chest perm to the hardened MKVI chest while it was still paper, I taped the Busa perm where I wanted it to fit, then hardened it directly on top of the MKVI chest, once its dry, hardened it the normal way you harden your parts, you should be able to lift it off the chest piece to get to the backside of the perm for hardening, If this is all hard to understand just look on my busa build in my signature, there should be some pics on how I did the chest sections, hope this helps

Okay, I'll attempt to do just that, and I fully understand what you mean. I currently have 4 days with absolutely nothing planned, so I'm going to be doing a lot of pepping. I just now finished the Hyabusa permutation and taped it weakly onto the MK VI chest, and it looks spiffy. I plan on doing both of the shoulders next, and they should be done in a few days. After that, I will probably re-pep the helmet to a better, and hopefully correct, size. I'll try to get some pictures once I have a working camera.
 
UPDATE!

I recently finished pepping both the Security Shoulders for my suit. They turned out well, the second being better than the first, and I am probably going to start the resin phase tomorrow. As for the chest, half of it is resined, and there is some warping on a section on the back. We are attempting to fix this problem with a wire to hold it in place. The wire, unfortunately pulled a few tabs undone, so I will need to re-glue 5-6 tabs. Other than that, I have a long day ahead of me tomorrow with all the work I plan to be doing. I also will be helping my friend maxstaxbox with his project, which can be found here.

Here are the pepped shoulders, waiting to have resin applied.



Here is the chest, half of it with resin, the other half waiting.





Opinions? Advice? All words are welcome! (Well, most words)
 
Wow. You started this project after me, and you got further already. Should I be offended? lol. Anyway, looks solid man, keep up the good work!
 
Before I go too far with this, I find that this is a necessary question to be asking. How many layers of resin on the outside is appropriate before adding the fiberglass to the inside? The chest is currently at two layers, and it feels slightly "flimsy." It isn't entirely weak, but I feel that it should be stronger. Hopefully someone can answer this before the weather gets warm again, and I can start glassing things soon.
 
Update, I guess.

Well, the day I planned to do a lot of resin-ing it rained a lot. It did the same for about a whole week after that. Due to the rain, I couldn't really get any work done. Fortunately, today was warm, so I got dome work done. Both of the shoulders got two coat of resin on the outside, and one got one layer of fiberglass. The chest got two coats of resin on the back, making it fully resin-ed. Pics below! Let me know what you think.







The plan is to finish re-pepping the helmet in a few days, and glass the chest a both shoulders; two layers each.
 
Right now I'm starting to look at paint so I know what to get ahead of time. I have the exact colors I want, but the problem is: they are only available in glossy. I can't seem to find the right color in a flat version, and that's what I need. I see two possible solutions:

1. Resort to ordering the paint online.
2. Someone knows a way to turn glossy paint flat.

If anyone knows how to do option 2, please, feel free to share.

In other news, I have finished glassing the shoulders, and I shall start Bondo on those. While doing that, I will also probably begin glassing the chest piece. I don't have pictures because, I mean, it doesn't look very different from just glassing. I have also begun pepping the right forearm, and hopefully I have scaled that correctly. I'll get pics of that once I'm done with it, along with shoulder pics after Bondo work.
 
I'm no expert at paint but my dad and others on this website are! Here is what I have learned about turning glossy paint flat.

Option A: You can lightly sand it with the finest grit sandpaper you can find. It's a lot of work but it helps with weathering also. (mostly good for LIGHT colors.)

Option B: If you are looking for a quick route and want to do weathering seperate (or not at all) then you can do this. Get some flat clear coat paint/primer and paint several thin layers of it on. The more you put the duller the glossy paint should get. (Be carefull NOT to spray too much as you will get fog[a white-ish layer of clear-coat over the primary color] and drips!)

Hope this helps...
 
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