I have been working on a Mark VI suit in my free time and figured I would post the results now that it's almost done and share what worked for me from a first time builders point of view, I also will post what PEP files I used and the scale sizes that fit me so other people starting out will have a baseline to make scaling a little easier.
This is my first build using Pepakura and also my first full body armor project so there were a few mistakes and learning curves but I found a lot of help and ideas here on 405th, I got quite
a few tips and ideas from Thorssoli's build and LongShot-X's
I am 6' 220 pounds with a 36" waste and a 41" chest the boots are sized to fit over size 14 work boots.
EP file links and scale sizes:
(Note that some of the scale numbers will be a little off when you enter them, I usually base everything from the height.)
Helmet:
PEP By Flyingsquirl
Scale: H=276 W=242 D=357
Shoulder/Bicep:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=346 W=200 D=170
Forearm:
PEP (Left Right) By Nugget
Scale: H=319 W=171 D=144
Hand Plate:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=26 W=102 D=119
Chest:
PEP By Flyingsquirl
Scale: H=467 W=436 D=446
Belt/Codpiece:
PEP By Crackhead09
Scale: H=330 W=394 D=363
Thigh:
PEP (Left Right) By Crackhead09
Scale: H=438 W=257 D=273
Shin:
PEP (Left Right) By Crackhead09
Scale: H=395 W=171 D=234
Boot:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=195 W=178 D=331
Tools for Pepping
For the PEP part I got some really small, sharp paper craft scissors and I use a hot glue
gun for small tabs, the hot glue hardens fast and if something is wrong you can just
heat it up and move the parts around, and plastic model glue for larger tabs because it
still drys pretty fast but gives you time to position large tabs.
For the folds I use .07 small tip ball point pins, they make nice small creases and the
colors make it easy to see what direction to fold.
After scaling the PEP file I change the line style in other settings to make folding easier.
I leave Mountain default but change Valley to 0.5, 0.5, 0.5 0.5 then I use the black pin
for mountain and red for valley so it's very easy to see the difference when folding.
For the backing/hardening of the PEP pieces I use a thin layer of rondo (rondo is just
Bondo thinned with fiberglass resin for people that haven't heard of it) and fiberglass
where I'm worried about cracking or need extra strength.
Some people don't like the extra weight of rondo but I really like being able to brush it on
and get the shape of the part right and being able to sand past the paper into Bondo is
nice too
Any place padding is needed I have been using different types of foam and this 3M spray
to stick it.
Spray one side for padding in low stress areas and both sides for a really strong bond.
As I get time I will post pics and notes on each piece.
Any questions or comments please post, I'm always looking to help and get new ideas.
Here is the suit almost finished
This is my first build using Pepakura and also my first full body armor project so there were a few mistakes and learning curves but I found a lot of help and ideas here on 405th, I got quite
a few tips and ideas from Thorssoli's build and LongShot-X's
I am 6' 220 pounds with a 36" waste and a 41" chest the boots are sized to fit over size 14 work boots.
(Note that some of the scale numbers will be a little off when you enter them, I usually base everything from the height.)
Helmet:
PEP By Flyingsquirl
Scale: H=276 W=242 D=357
Shoulder/Bicep:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=346 W=200 D=170
Forearm:
PEP (Left Right) By Nugget
Scale: H=319 W=171 D=144
Hand Plate:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=26 W=102 D=119
Chest:
PEP By Flyingsquirl
Scale: H=467 W=436 D=446
Belt/Codpiece:
PEP By Crackhead09
Scale: H=330 W=394 D=363
Thigh:
PEP (Left Right) By Crackhead09
Scale: H=438 W=257 D=273
Shin:
PEP (Left Right) By Crackhead09
Scale: H=395 W=171 D=234
Boot:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=195 W=178 D=331
Tools for Pepping

For the PEP part I got some really small, sharp paper craft scissors and I use a hot glue
gun for small tabs, the hot glue hardens fast and if something is wrong you can just
heat it up and move the parts around, and plastic model glue for larger tabs because it
still drys pretty fast but gives you time to position large tabs.
For the folds I use .07 small tip ball point pins, they make nice small creases and the
colors make it easy to see what direction to fold.
After scaling the PEP file I change the line style in other settings to make folding easier.
I leave Mountain default but change Valley to 0.5, 0.5, 0.5 0.5 then I use the black pin
for mountain and red for valley so it's very easy to see the difference when folding.
For the backing/hardening of the PEP pieces I use a thin layer of rondo (rondo is just
Bondo thinned with fiberglass resin for people that haven't heard of it) and fiberglass
where I'm worried about cracking or need extra strength.
Some people don't like the extra weight of rondo but I really like being able to brush it on
and get the shape of the part right and being able to sand past the paper into Bondo is
nice too
Any place padding is needed I have been using different types of foam and this 3M spray
to stick it.

Spray one side for padding in low stress areas and both sides for a really strong bond.
As I get time I will post pics and notes on each piece.
Any questions or comments please post, I'm always looking to help and get new ideas.
Here is the suit almost finished
