Mark VI build with scale sizes

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Wiz MC

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I have been working on a Mark VI suit in my free time and figured I would post the results now that it's almost done and share what worked for me from a first time builders point of view, I also will post what PEP files I used and the scale sizes that fit me so other people starting out will have a baseline to make scaling a little easier.

This is my first build using Pepakura and also my first full body armor project so there were a few mistakes and learning curves but I found a lot of help and ideas here on 405th, I got quite
a few tips and ideas from Thorssoli's build and LongShot-X's

I am 6' 220 pounds with a 36" waste and a 41" chest the boots are sized to fit over size 14 work boots.

:pEP file links and scale sizes:
(Note that some of the scale numbers will be a little off when you enter them, I usually base everything from the height.)

Helmet:
PEP By Flyingsquirl
Scale: H=276 W=242 D=357

Shoulder/Bicep:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=346 W=200 D=170

Forearm:
PEP (Left Right) By Nugget
Scale: H=319 W=171 D=144

Hand Plate:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=26 W=102 D=119

Chest:
PEP By Flyingsquirl
Scale: H=467 W=436 D=446

Belt/Codpiece:
PEP By Crackhead09
Scale: H=330 W=394 D=363

Thigh:
PEP (Left Right) By Crackhead09
Scale: H=438 W=257 D=273

Shin:
PEP (Left Right) By Crackhead09
Scale: H=395 W=171 D=234

Boot:
PEP (Left Right) By Robogenesis
Scale: H=195 W=178 D=331

Tools for Pepping

peptools.jpg


For the PEP part I got some really small, sharp paper craft scissors and I use a hot glue
gun for small tabs, the hot glue hardens fast and if something is wrong you can just
heat it up and move the parts around, and plastic model glue for larger tabs because it
still drys pretty fast but gives you time to position large tabs.

For the folds I use .07 small tip ball point pins, they make nice small creases and the
colors make it easy to see what direction to fold.

After scaling the PEP file I change the line style in other settings to make folding easier.
I leave Mountain default but change Valley to 0.5, 0.5, 0.5 0.5 then I use the black pin
for mountain and red for valley so it's very easy to see the difference when folding.


For the backing/hardening of the PEP pieces I use a thin layer of rondo (rondo is just
Bondo thinned with fiberglass resin for people that haven't heard of it) and fiberglass
where I'm worried about cracking or need extra strength.
Some people don't like the extra weight of rondo but I really like being able to brush it on
and get the shape of the part right and being able to sand past the paper into Bondo is
nice too

Any place padding is needed I have been using different types of foam and this 3M spray
to stick it.

sprayadhesive.jpg


Spray one side for padding in low stress areas and both sides for a really strong bond.



As I get time I will post pics and notes on each piece.
Any questions or comments please post, I'm always looking to help and get new ideas.

Here is the suit almost finished

img_0497.jpg
 
Thats pretty impressive for a first build! Are you going to do a weathering look to it aswell?

I don't mean to sound like an a$$ or anything but it just looks dirty instead of weathered and used
 
looks very nice, but ya it looks as if master chief just rolled around in some dirt haha. BUT still really really nice. keep it up bro
 
Yeah i was actually going for a dirty and weathered look. It doesn't show up in the picture too well but the edges are buffed with a little silver to give it a
worn look and I did change up how I was painting some of the pieces as I went along so it's not very consistent but this was a first run and Halloween
costume, not like anybody will be looking that close at it.
 
very nice build!! its WIP threads like this that make me want to finish my old mk 6 build some day. definitely going to keep an eye on this. how long until you're done you think?
 
Boots

The boots are made from the three piece PEP with the toe and heel attached to some old
work boots and the top piece is strapped on with elastic and Velcro to cover the laces.

bootbuild.jpg


I cut out some half inch plywood in the shape of the toe and heel and drilled a bunch of small
holes on the inside of the ply for the glue to grab onto. Then I glued the PEP to the ply with epoxy,
I also sanded the toe and heel on the sole to round the ends to make walking a little
easier, after the parts were painted I used shoe-goo to attach the toe and heel letting it
cure for a few days then filled the voids between the boots and PEP pieces to make it solid
and cut down on the hollow sound when walking

The middle cover is a large rubber plunger cut in half, I did have a nice foam wrap I made
to cover it but it wasn't very durable and looking down at the boot most people can't see
the edges of the shoe anyways.

The sole I used conveyor belting for the treads but you can use almost anything rubber for
traction and sound buffering.
 
Gloves

The gloves are pretty straight forward.

glovebuild.jpg


I used some cheap paintball gloves I found on eBay, then I figured out how high I wanted
the hand plate to be from the back of the glove and marked the inside of the piece.

I thinned some Bondo with fiberglass resin to make it flow a little better then filled the PEP
piece up to the line and let it harden. The hand plate is attached with Velcro which makes
it flexible and easy to adjust.
 
Great looking work you have going here. Love the detailed WIP. photo's and write up as you move along. Keep us posted.
 
Wow! Excellent start on your 1st post!

Love how you give the credits and especially your scaling measurments. That reminds me that I still need to post my scale sizes.

I like that your putting the black detail lines. It really does help to show off all the detail parts.

Also, I love your duct-tape dummy. I still want/need to do one.

Your bondo work looks awesome. You hid the polygons very well.

Can't wait to seem more progress pics.

Cheers! :)
 
Chest

chestbuild1.jpg


The chest I ended up doing in three pieces splitting the front, back and abb plate apart.

chestbuild2.jpg


The front is connected to the back with clips on the top and Velcro on the bottom, there are
also two rubber nubs on the top that line the front and back pieces to keep it from shifting
around. The black section on the lower inside is for the abb plate.

chestbuild3.jpg


I made the abb plate separate from the chest for comfort and mobility.
I cut off the corners a little because they were ether rubbing the inside of the chest piece
or poking me in the ribs when bending over or sitting down, it is attached with 1/8th thick
rubber and Velcro.

chestbuild4.jpg


The back has clips with elastic webbing on the top so it's easy to pull it out and clip but
it will still have a tight fit without having to adjust straps all the time. The straps on the
shoulders are for the Arm/Bicep pieces and the bottom,

chestbuild5.jpg


Has normal webbing and Velcro with a wood block sanded to fit the inside of the front
section to lock it in.
 
Wow! Excellent start on your 1st post!

Love how you give the credits and especially your scaling measurments. That reminds me that I still need to post my scale sizes.

I like that your putting the black detail lines. It really does help to show off all the detail parts.

Also, I love your duct-tape dummy. I still want/need to do one.

Your bondo work looks awesome. You hid the polygons very well.

Can't wait to seem more progress pics.

Cheers! :)


Thanks! I really wanted to post just to get the scaling measurements out there, it is a pain when you're first starting out trying to get
the sizes right, this way people have a baseline to start with.

The duct-tape dummy is a huge time saver, I helps when you are trying to fit armor pieces or just need to see what things look like on a body.

And I haven't done much bondo body work on most of the pieces. I have been trying to see how little finish work I can do and still have
it come out looking ok. I do a thin layer of rondo on the inside then fiberglass where it's needed, then in places I need to round off and
smooth I just sand past the paper.
 
Just a quick update, got most of the armor done for the Halloween party and I'll finish posting build pics once I get caught up
on work and stuff. Here is a shot of most of it done.

party.jpg
 
The scaling looks spot on. One of the best Chiefs I've seen for sure.:)
 
Very cool! I'd agree that your scaling is right on the money. Awesome job. How's the range of motion in the suit?
 
Awesome job! I was wondering about how the boots would work if the sole was actually left closed instead of opening it for the boots. I am impressed with your work!
 
Very cool! I'd agree that your scaling is right on the money. Awesome job. How's the range of motion in the suit?

Thanks! Pretty much the only place armor gets in the way of movement is the chest. I can't cross my arms very far and had to have
somebody help me attach the shoulders to the Velcro straps, which I'm going to change in an update to clips because the Velcro would
pop off if I moved my arms around wildly.
 
Sweet! I only ask because I'm having that exact problem with my mk V chest and shoulders. Love to see how you manage to fix it. Could be helpful when I start my mk VI. Keep up the awesome work!!!
 
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