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Thread: KAT ARMOR BUILD - with custom undersuit

  1. #1

    KAT ARMOR BUILD - with custom undersuit

    **UPDATE**
    A quick shot of the current build progress will be updated here. Check out my latest update post for more detailed info!

    >> You can also look for updates on this and other projects at www.facebook.com/LilTyrantCostumes <<

    Prepping for SDCC Helmet/Tactical Case/Pistol Mods are done:





    *****
    Hello all!

    I'm new to armor making and this whole forum thing, but I've often felt Spartan costumes were one of those "Awesome! I should do that some time!" type of things. Finally, after some stumbling, some research, and some lurking, I realized I should make "some time" now and do it!

    My plan is to build a set of foam Kat armor with a custom undersuit. I'm going with foam in hopes it will be lighter, more comfortable, and less toxic a process than pepakura (Bondo has never been my friend ). If all goes well with this build, weapons and a Jun suit for my guy will follow. So here goes nothin'...

    Step 1: Spartan Undies - The Plan
    >> First, I sketched up how I want the undersuit to look (using a photo underlay for scale reference). This will help me out when making the pattern.
    >> I plan to make at least one prelim white model undersuit to test fit the pattern and mock up some armor pieces for sizing before moving on to the final. I'm hoping this way I can tweak the undersuit and armor to work better together.




    Step 2: Spartan Undies - Rough it Out
    >> Using my sketch as reference, I taped up my dress form (that's girl talk for mannequin) to block out the basic pattern breaks. I'm starting just with the core part of the top. The sleeves and pants will come later.





    >> Next, I cut newsprint pieces to roughly fit the dress form and match my sketch. I use newsprint because it comes in big sheets and it's cheap .





    Step 3: Spartan Undies - Make a Pattern (v1)
    >> Finally, I remove the newsprint from the dress form and retrace the pieces to clean them up and add in seam allowance. Seam allowance is the overlap created when two pieces of fabric are sewn together, since you can't sew edge to edge. Most clothes have 3/8 in. seam allowance, but you can get away with 1/4 in. if you want to save some fabric. Any less than that and you may start getting holes after wearing the garmet a few times.



    >> I always label my pattern pieces with the pattern version, the piece name, how many pieces I need to cut, and what fabric I am cutting from. Otherwise, it can start to get pretty confusing.




    That's all for now! Comments/thoughts are greatly appreciated!

    -----
    Next Up: The sewing begins
    Last edited by LilTyrant; 06-14-2013 at 09:14 PM.

  2. #2
    Pretty cool concept, and excellent start using newsprint/sheeting pattern. Thats what my mother does for costumes and I can honestly say (with bias of course) that she is the best seamstress I know.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Wow, very nice job so far with the undesuit. I'll definetly be watching this thread and coming back to it when I start my undersuit. Out of curiosity, what program did you use to do the sketchup? Cant wait to see more!
    Come watch my building casts on the weekends!Twitch.tv/tjx62

  4. #4
    This is looking really promising O_O Can't wait to see more progress! There aren't enough seamstresses on 405th ^_^
    It might be a little cheeky to ask at this point..But do you plan to share your pattern when you are done? :O

    -Phi

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Arizona
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    I'm going to keep an eye on this build. The patterns look spot on to the game. Nice to see more people doing custom undersuits.
    Goodluck!
    Here i am.. sitting at the edge of my seat. Not because of excitement.. but because my cat decided to sleep on the other 90%.
    >_<;;

  6. #6
    Impressive! I am really looking forward to the results! I see you have a "light" and "heavy" texture fabric on the first picture, have you come to any ideas for what kind of material you would use?
    WE ARE THE FORTRESS

  7. #7
    Thanks guys for all the positive feedback...it definitely helps to keep me motivated!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Dinosaur View Post
    Pretty cool concept, and excellent start using newsprint/sheeting pattern. Thats what my mother does for costumes and I can honestly say (with bias of course) that she is the best seamstress I know.
    It always seems mothers are the best at sewing

    Quote Originally Posted by TJX62 View Post
    Wow, very nice job so far with the undesuit. I'll definetly be watching this thread and coming back to it when I start my undersuit. Out of curiosity, what program did you use to do the sketchup? Cant wait to see more!
    Glad to contribute some undersuit info . I'll keep an eye out on your thread to see how yours goes. I did the digital sketch in Corel Painter X with a Wacom. Photoshop is awesome for rendering, but I like sketching in Painter...it feels a little more natural to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by phixix View Post
    This is looking really promising O_O Can't wait to see more progress! There aren't enough seamstresses on 405th ^_^
    It might be a little cheeky to ask at this point..But do you plan to share your pattern when you are done? :O

    -Phi
    Thanks! There's a lot I don't know about sewing, but I have done it before so hopefully a can help contribute a thing or two to the general 405th knowledge . I'm not sure what I'll do with the patterns yet, but it'll have to wait at least until this project is done. Prepping patterns for shared use would be quite a task in itself! Plus, it may only be minimally helpful unless someone is my same size.

    Quote Originally Posted by RoxyRoo View Post
    I'm going to keep an eye on this build. The patterns look spot on to the game. Nice to see more people doing custom undersuits.
    Goodluck!
    I used some screen shots (and Google, of course) as reference. Screen shots are in the Reach Reference Thread if anyone needs 'em!

    Quote Originally Posted by kerbyg View Post
    Impressive! I am really looking forward to the results! I see you have a "light" and "heavy" texture fabric on the first picture, have you come to any ideas for what kind of material you would use?
    Thanks! I'm still deciding what fabrics to use. For the heavy texture I'll probable use something like marine vinyl (pleather-ish). For the light texture I want to find something more breathable, but I'm still working that out. I might wind up overlapping a couple of different things. I'm still a ways away from the final, so we'll see how it goes!

    -----
    Hurray for Updates!

    I've started putting together the prelim white model using muslin. I've got the main pieces together, but still need to add the zipper and the stomach/back details. Muslin is the fabric of choice because:

    1. It's super cheap ($1-$2 a yard...and even cheaper if you sign up for coupons at JoAnn's...hurray!)
    2. It's a light color (the better to mark up with any changes I want to make...and the easier to see my black thread in case some seam ripping needs to happen)
    3. It doesn't have stretch (I plan on using non-stretchy fabric for the final)




    A couple of sewing tips I find helpful:

    >> Cutting is boring, but clean cuts on your pattern pieces make lining things up easier.

    >> Before pinning/sewing, always double check your pieces are going together in the right orientation, with the right sides facing each other. Having to rip out your seams and re-sew is always a bummer and can get frustrating the more complex a piece is.

    >> PINNING IS YOUR BEST FRIEND! The better you pin, the cleaner your seams turn out. But don't sew over your pins...that can lead to bent pins and broken needles (bent pins are annoying and nobody wants a needle in the eye). You may get away with it when using thin fabric, but once you go thicker or start layering up, it will become a definite problem. I am obsessed with excessively pinning. I like to use pins with big heads because they are more visible and easier to pull out as you go.

    >> One more thing on pinning: don't just pin from one end to the other. More often than not (even if you have perfectly fitting pieces), the fabric won't line up right. Use the rule of halves: put one pin in each end, then one in the middle. From there, continue inserting pins at the halfway point between each already inserted pin. Also, pin perpendicular to your seam, with the pin heads sticking out over the edge.

    >> Ironing is also your friend. Iron your fabric before you trace your pattern, and iron your seams after you sew.

    Still a long way to go (and some tweaks to make before the final), but I'm excited to be started! Hopefully I can get the zipper in soon so I can see how it actually fits on me since my dress form is a little bigger than I am. Things may slow down a little during the week due to work but I'll try to keep pluggin' away!

    -----
    Next up: Wrap up on those pesky remaining pattern pieces!

  8. #8
    Not a ton of progress, but I finished off the rest of the pattern pieces for the torso and got a zipper in.



    Definitely needs some tweaks before the final...I feel like the fit isn't quite what I'd like. I think I'll probably try a few other things for the padding, too. We'll see.

    Thoughts/input are appreciated!

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    looks super rad!

  10. This is really really sweet! Ive always said that I love all the projects and armor that people build on here but I have the look of the flat under suits, they just dont pop like they should! Cant wait to see more!!!

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