Spartan Laser Metal & Fiberglass Airsoft Prop (Fully Functioning Electronic Replica)

[Redshirt]

Time for more pictures. Since the Pep model started with few surface details and I removed the rest to streamline/strengthen construction, I needed to add the details. I decided that styrene sheets were the best way to go about this by just cutting out the details and layering them up on the surface of the Rondo/Pep blanks. I had to go out on business, so this was a good part of the project to take out on the road.




I started with full size drawings matched to the finished Rondo/Pepakura blanks. I then drew out the details, and cut them out as patterns for the styrene.




I carefully cut out the pieces from 40 and 60 thousandths of an inch styrene sheets. Notice the side markers are square-edged. I rounded those later with needle files.





It was a real challenge to get the vents for the mid shroud straight




Here's a better look at the drawings.







All the parts ready to graft onto the sides of the larger pieces.

Back at home and time to fit it all together:




I used JB Weld to hold the styrene to the Rondo/Pepakura parts. I cut other details into the Rondo using a combo of Dremel and the round file attachment for the beloved air file.




Rubber bands to hold while the JB Weld cures.




The small size of the styrene sheets meant that a lot of details had to be made of multiple parts.



Cleaned up parts for the front end of the upper receiver.

Shouldn't take too long to get the final clean-up done and get them ready to be made into molds.

Redshirt

[Chiefy117]

Coming along nicely man keep up the great work

[Redshirt]

The circuit diagram is complete after many revisions. I didn't know jack about electronics when I started this. I spent countless hours online studying 555 timers and looking for switching and voltage conversion solutions. The end result is below. I had a rocket scientist (literally) review each draft and give me tips and pointers to get to this solution.




I have a large 11.1V lithium-polymer battery driving the primary high (11.1v) and low (5.1V) circuits, The major parts are 3 relays and a Castle Creations battery elimination circuit (BEC). The BEC drops the voltage down to 5.1V tp drive the LEDs and timers. The three relays run high-current 11.1V power to the airsoft mechboxes.





Here are the components coming together as I try to figure out the layout of the circuit boards and how to pair up the mechboxes to fit inside.



The three black boxes are the relays. The little blue and white piece is the BEC (transformer). The BEC has proven to be a cost-effective and very space-efficient way to get the stepped-down voltage for the electronics. Its original purpose is to power the receiver in an RC plane without the added weight of a low-voltage secondary battery. Also in this photo are LED pigtails, the red LED tail light assembly, the rumble motors from and XBOX controller, trigger switches, and fuse holders.



I've started easy with some of the sub-assemblies. Here are the LED pig tails, some will be used for side lights, others will charge glow-in-th-dark tracer BBs for night ops. Although I bought board-mount fuse holders, I think I will stick with the in-line fuses already built into the mechboxes. I'll add resistors to keep from over-boosting the 3V rumble motors.





The BEC and the relays. All relays are the same, but the primary will have the coil driven by the 5V circuit, while the two secondary relays will have their coils driven by 11.1V current from the primary relay.





Two of the version 6 Echo 1 mechboxes and 11.1V batteries. I will use only one of these larger batteries for the primary circuit. I'll get some smaller 11.1V batteries for the two secondary circuits.





Switches, servo, LED tail light, laser pointer tip. I am trying to round up a more powerful sighting laser, but this one will get be started. the switch on the left is the master power switch--closed when the front handle is extended. The other two switches will be the primary trigger and the override trigger. Both will be hidden inside the grip along with the rumble motors.


Still working on detailing out the fiberglass blanks. More pictures of those soon.

Redshirt

[firevoid]

i couldn't read all of your typing but i did look through all your pics and am really impressed. dude seriously keep up the good work. i really want to see this finished.

[Stiilus]

booyah indeed. i'm loving this project. i can tell you were serious about how long it took to plan it, this far in and it shows already that you have put a lot of time and effort into thinking everything through. if what i've seen so far is anything to go by, then it'll look amazing when it's finished ...

[thorn696]

WOW...This is some awesome stuff, Love it.

[Chiefy117]

brilliant!!!!!!!! cant wait to see it fitted!

[JBetts97]

Right here is a guy with a plan! Keep it up !

[Toacrabman]

Now all we need is a grenade launcher that takes 40mm airsoft shells. That and a rocket launcher with some of those 40mm airsoft rocket shells.

[Redshirt]

Now all we need is a grenade launcher that takes 40mm airsoft shells. That and a rocket launcher with some of those 40mm airsoft rocket shells.

We toyed with BOTH of those ideas here. After the SPLASER is done, I'm committed to covert an expended M72 LAW launcher into an airsoft launcher. I've got a plan for a lightweight "rocket" (really an inert foam-covered projectile) that can safely expel BBs via compressed gas on impact. If it works, the system would be directly exportable to a SPNKR. Think about it though, you want a projectile to go at least 100 feet and still expel BBs, yet be light/soft enough not to injure some fool on the receiving end who isn't wearing a helmet. When you look at it from both sides (safety vs performance) there really isn't much common ground for a balance. We'd all love to see it, but practically, it's going to be very difficult. Still, only one project at a time . . . .

Redshirt