ODST R.spec

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Ballistic

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Hey guys, it's been a while. It's been busy since I've first started poking around here, but I've read and re-read enough tutorials. Clocks ticking.
I'm building an ODST suit for the purpose of running in it, specifically running OCRs in it.
That means the suit needs full range of motion, it needs to be breathable, I need to maintain form in it, needs to be waterproof and above all it needs to be rugged.
I've already had to make several concessions for this design.
  • It was originally a reach build
  • It's highly likely a helmet would just impair me too much. (don't care, wanna make one anyway)
  • going for trail shoes since I typically don't run races in boots.

So far I've pepped the chest piece, weapon and reaction side shoulder pieces. I've clocked roughly 5 nights of work, loving how zen it is. I just queue up some background noise and float.

The two main issues I can see are how to mount it secure enough so that nothing will come off if I tackle an obstacle roughly, and how to effectively shock proof the armour so that it can stand up to the abuse I intend to give it throughout the year.

First up I can use some sappergenuity to make the armour Molle compatible during the resin stage. Ie: integrating Molle straps in the fiberglass work.

The shock proofing idea came outta my engee manual. Well sort of. Towards the end of the process, pretty much right up to priming, I'll fill the armour cavities with expanding foam. The general idea is that as shock travels through the armour, it gets absorbed through the foam and disperses, rather than letting the armour take the force and inefficiently transferring force to the undersuit.
 
I think you're going to have to mount the armor directly to your under-suit. The molle was a good idea. The tough parts will be the shins and forearms.
 
Do you plan on molding the pieces? I feel like you'll just end up chipping and cracking the fiberglass and bondo running through an obstacle course.
 
Molding? Is that where I slap on filler and sand it back?
I have heard of people busting knuckles on their armor provided they layered it enough, but I figure a redundancy layer wouldn't hurt.
 
Molding? Is that where I slap on filler and sand it back?
I have heard of people busting knuckles on their armor provided they layered it enough, but I figure a redundancy layer wouldn't hurt.
What AWACS-89 means by molding is creating a master part initially (likely via pepakura) then making a silicone mold of it to replicate it out of either casting resin/fiberglass/etc. The replicated parts will be much more resilient to abuse, and possibly lighter, as there will be little to no body filler on the pieces, which tends to crack or break if it is layed on thick.
 
much more resilient to abuse, and possibly lighter.

Oh, those are some key phrases I like to hear. I always figured the casting of pieces was more for mass producing armor for a team.
Cheers for that, this could save me a lot of work down the line.
So far the only drawback I can see is that molds can be prone to heat damage. Could be a problem down here in Aus, but it's business as usual for now.
http://www.bunnings.com.au/diggers-500g-cast-and-embedding-resin_p1874117
Ticks all the boxes. I saw it while grabbing the Fglass too. Considering it's makeup is sort of similar to vanilla polyester resin I suppose it won't be adverse to a few layers of Fglass backing.

Progress edit:
Forearms are pepped out. One forearm was not a perfect reflection of the others unfolded work so it appears squashed. Support struts should solve that.
I'm knocking out a piece every time I sit down for a session it's great.
Upper torso is pretty much done just need side plates but I should be able to knock those out pretty quickly, figure I'll work on the pressure suit back protector to blend it with the rest since I'm reluctant to add anything extra to the back for fear of snagging on anything. Found the perfect chest rig to mount everything, figuring out a system for the leg pieces now.
Photos to come soon, but I need to get some sleep and I have duty in a couple hours.
 
20140407_204335.jpg

So after my race yesterday I decided to make use of the awesome weather and resin some pieces.
No major problems and everything is still where it should be.
You guys weren't kidding about needing to work fast too.
I've taken to using 50ml batches since I can only be so careful before I start getting jello.
Need to pick my work area a little better though, there's little bits of grit and dirt embedded in the resin.
 
Finished the thighs, since the ODST thigh file I had was a little basic I decided to go for something a little more challenging.
Got some reach thighs by ForgedReclaimer and Brandon McClain and started work.
Still nice big pieces and probably the easiest file I've had so far.
Printed out the shins by Hugh and Luna screw me sideways it took hours to just write out the edge IDs.

I needed something like this to step up my game in prep for the helmet.
Pressure suit and chest rig are on order so ideally I have a couple more weeks to get everything past the initial resin.
I've been drafting what I would need to make the helmet viable in races, initially I had a look at vents in the helmet, but I've run paintball and simunition rigs before and they're pretty good at sapping energy over time.
Now I've been looking at some sort of mesh for the visor which would be easier for me to work with, but that could run the risk of bouncing co2 back in my face just as bad as any mask.
It's a fairly end-game issue though, so it's something I'll nut out in the stress tests.
 
Hello fellow Aussie, this is some very interesting stuff and I look forward to seeing how you tackle the damage resistant part, just a quick enquirie when you say write the edge id I'm assuming your file didn't print them? If that's the case you can change that in pep designer.
 
Oh I know how to show the edge ID. It's just that my printers out of black ink.
So even if I try to print the numbers then I'll only get a faint mark if anything.
Usually I'm quick enough to cross reference the IDs to the print out while it's in the middle of the job, but the shins look to be the most complicated part yet.
 
First shin done. Second one well on the way.
Not all that complicated when it comes down to it, i just kept working and it got easier.
I was talking with a few of my race mates and the guys who row suggested i use kevlar weave and epoxy resin instead of fiberglass.
Its a crazy idea that just might work, i just have to wrangle with the idea some more.
 
Kevlar and epoxy would definitely be stronger and more tolerant of bending than fiberglass. The cost of Kevlar will definitely be more than fiberglass.
 
Ran the numbers. Epoxy is marginally more expensive than poly, and kevlar is twice as expensive as Fglass, but it looks more cost effective since even the best woven roving weave will need to be layered more to achieve similar strength.
I'll use kevlar on the final molds, go big or go home right?
Luckily I've found a store that has everything I need, looks like my next trip for supplies is going to be a fun one.
 
The shop owner suggested I mix in metal powder to the cast.
It requires a different type of resin to the one I picked out, but I'll just have to research in the strength the new resin will provide.
 
Been a while since my last update.
All pep is finally done.
Finished a rookie helmet when I saw it was too small, far too small.
So that took the wind out of my sails for a bit while I threw myself into training.
Finished another couple of races and my motivation is back. Just finished the Reach ODST helmet.
Had a steep learning curve with hot glue guns during it too.
10295709_824603394234153_8207754797107147514_n.jpg


The MK.1 is going to be a traditionally made suit. F.glass, filler all that. I will re-use the undersuit for the subsequent iterations though. It might even be con ready.
MK.2 as it stands is going to be a mold of Shore D grade polyurethane, with a kevlar-epoxy middle-layer and a foam backing. If the weight is still manageable I'll sandwich some F.glass as contingency.
I'm getting mighty excited about the helmet, so I'm going to go ahead an cannibalize an ill-fitting mich helmet and fit mesh for the visor.

Depending on the cost, it may be cheaper to trot the pieces out to a rapid-prototyper to fashion the casts.

Little teaser for my mates.
10325246_821604001200759_4209104721261011007_n.jpg

10252099_822192727808553_9090480208395151760_n.jpg

Came 4th.
 
So I was all set to get my F.Glass to start glassing when the shop owner took a closer look at the piece I brought in.
He's convinced I can skip MK.1 and go straight to MK.2 by rotocasting with the polyurethane instead of laying up F.glass.
It raises the question with how I'm going to make the exterior detailing durable, but I'll bring it up next time I need supplies. Maybe I can just slap a thin coat of poly over the top.
I was under the impression rotocasting involved a glorified cement mixer, but I just slushed the poly mix around the inside of the piece, with one of the pieces I had to use a brush to help move the poly around, hopefully it comes out fairly even.
Chest piece and a shoulder piece are curing now. I used the left over that had formed into putty as a sealer for the next few pieces.

So by the end of this stage I'll have to decide if I can just strengthen the original pieces and use them, or mold the pieces to ensure a 100% contingency.
Main driving factor here is the cost-effectiveness of the build.

A point on the kevlar situation. Since the poly will render a piece with the same strength as an industry standard hard hat, it's unlikely I'll need more reinforcement. The shop owner figured just a decent weave of F.Glass would do the job.
But... it's going in whether it needs it or not, just not in the amount that I thought I'd need.

Update: Looking good, it hasn't even fully cured yet and it's stood up to a few knocks with my hammer. There is a little bit of flex, but that should be fixed when it reaches the proper thickness.

So I'll put this question to you guys.
Where are the areas on your suit with the highest wear/impact?
 
Polyuretheane is pretty much the plastic that's used in casting anyways - it -should- be fairly rigid and hold up to minor impacts (read: small bumps and knocks). If you're absolutely sure you want to go further, a layer of GRP (fibreglass) on the inside of your piece is by no means uncommon.

That said, if it's standing up to minor tests fairly well, you may be fine without it.

As for your question: consider 'contact areas' on your build - parts that may interact or impact with each other, like the shins, torso, biceps and forearms. Particularly your shins will need to be strong - you'll scuff them against each other when walking, you'll bump into things accidentally.
 
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