Halo Reach Commander carter BuildWIP

Molag Bal · Apr 11, 2014

Hello all,

been away from the forums for a long time due to a fire i had last year in my apt.
But im back in the swing of things and working on a new project for this summer.
I am going to be building the complete commander carter suit using pepakura and bits of foam here and there.

10% of 100% completed

Parts:
1. Helmet- Pepped, resined, rondoed, bondo 1st stage
a. UA Brim- Pepped, resined, rondoed, bondo 1st stage, Primer, Chrome, Spray Paint black coat
b. Communicator- Pepped, resined, rondoed, bondo first stage
2. Chest- Pepped, resined, rondoed
3. Shoulders
4. Biceps
5. Vambraces
6. Gloves
7. Cod
8. Thighs
9. Shins
10. Boots.

Extras:
1. LEDs
2. Under suit

Molag Bal · Apr 11, 2014

here are my initial images of the work i have already done to get things going

.
giant pile o pep

work in progress: front view

work in progress: side view

Finished pep

1 layer of epoxy resin

added the clips on top

pepped out the communicator

Added Brim

cut out visor

CLOTHAR · Apr 12, 2014

Nice start.

Are you trying to subliminally message us to play minecraft?

Molag Bal · Apr 12, 2014

CLOTHAR said:
Nice start.

Are you trying to subliminally message us to play minecraft?

Thanks for the good words.
you have caught on to my plot...dun dun dun.

Molag Bal · Apr 19, 2014

Small update, I've gotten as far as I can get with my helmet for now with the cold temps out I cant work with bondo yet.
So in the meantime I am working on pepping out my chest piece

EDIT: Chest Complete

Molag Bal · Apr 23, 2014

Hey guys i have a question about fiberglass resin and colder temps. Basically i live in ontario and despite the fact its the end of april its still 30-40°f out. So my question is can i still resin outside then place the resined piece inside a rubbermaid tote warmed by a fan heater? And if so would i heat the tote with the fan or place the fan inside the tote?

Molag Bal · Apr 24, 2014

Any ideas?......

Carpathia · Apr 24, 2014

You can do that; that method is called a hot box. One thing to be aware of is that you don't have to heat the box up to an insane temperature. Resin can still cure at temperatures of 40 degrees Farenheit, so all you need to do is warm it up to about 50 degrees. That means don't put a space heater right next to the box and risk a fire; just seal the piece up in the tote and bring it inside, I wouldn't even bother with a fan or heating source; just be sure you want to use that tub exclusively for resin from here on out, because the smell will never come out.

Molag Bal · Apr 24, 2014

Carpathia said:
You can do that; that method is called a hot box. One thing to be aware of is that you don't have to heat the box up to an insane temperature. Resin can still cure at temperatures of 40 degrees Farenheit, so all you need to do is warm it up to about 50 degrees. That means don't put a space heater right next to the box and risk a fire; just seal the piece up in the tote and bring it inside, I wouldn't even bother with a fan or heating source; just be sure you want to use that tub exclusively for resin from here on out, because the smell will never come out.

Thanks for the advice Carpathia, you're the man.

Molag Bal · Apr 25, 2014

update: Hand plates pepped out.

Molag Bal · May 1, 2014

Hey guys quick question..... I rondoed and fiberglassed my helmet using the hotbox method, which worked perfectly. It seems fully cured solid structure and no tacky spots. But the horrid stink remains i mixed it hot to ensure it cures quickly but as i understand this is the styrene degassing. Is there any method of speeding this process or neutralising the odor?

Shadowind · May 1, 2014

I didn't use the hot box method so I don't know how different the out come would be from glassing and rondo in ambient temp. and open air; but it's been my experience that as long as the part is in an area with good ventilation the smell should disperse pretty quickly. There might still be a lingering hint of the smell for a day or two but it should be gone by a week at most. If it still reeks after two to three days I'd say it may have not set properly, which is bad. Again, I haven't used the hot box method so take my advice for what it's worth, but I hope it helps.

Molag Bal · May 6, 2014

Quick question guys.... did i size this properly?

cha0skn1ght · May 6, 2014

It's hard to tell with the darker colors underneath but I kind of think it is a tad small. In the end it may not be but it looks like you will have to open up the wrist area to get your hand through after it's hardened.

Ted · May 6, 2014

I would say only you would know that. My advice is to look at some references and see if the scale is right when you compare it to a piece you already pepped out, like the chest, for example. The build seems to be going really well

I hope you the best! Btw, where in Ontario?

Molag Bal · May 25, 2014

Update time

1. Minor bondo work and visor screws mounted.

2. I performed a back-off mod due to the neck hole being too small to fit my head and refusal to start over lol.

3. Did a bit more bondo work.

Molag Bal · May 25, 2014

Ted said:
I would say only you would know that. My advice is to look at some references and see if the scale is right when you compare it to a piece you already pepped out, like the chest, for example. The build seems to be going really well I hope you the best! Btw, where in Ontario?

Im in kingston ontario

Mstruvmgc · May 26, 2014

The helmet is looking good, as well as other pieces or armor

As far as your question about the forearm piece. i think it looks good, but like chaosknight said, you will probably have to cut out the wrist area to fit your hand through it after you harden it. That is of course if you plan to just slip in on your arm as one whole piece. You could always cut out a section that you will be able to put back on after its on your arm.
Honestly its really up to how comfy it is and if you like the fit.
Best of luck

Molag Bal · May 26, 2014

Thanks for the good words Mstruvmgc.

Quick question to anyone who knows the answer.......
I have coated my helmet in bondo and sanded it back so its only covering the low areas but i still have lumps/bumps in the bondo itself.
I assume this can be rectified by adding more layers and sanding it back.
sooo my question is are there any tips/tricks to make this process a bit smoother and avoid the lumps/bumps in the bondo?
below is a picture of what i mean.

mkshane81 · May 26, 2014

Do a higher quantity of thinner layers. Rather than adding a lot of material that you have to worry about removing to get your shape back, work in thin layers, and work small areas at a time. Progress is looking great....nice job on the back-off mod!

-Matt

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