Props Spring like Casting Material???

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Aiden26

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So I have been a Skyrim fan since day 1 and I always wanted a functional bow from Skyrim. In the Skyrim pep thread there are a bunch of Pep files of bows. I would like to know if there is any Spring like Material that could make a bow functional? It may sound like a stupid question, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
 
I can only think of like a rubber, like brush-on or latex. But you don't want a floppy bow. I understand what you're looking for. I'll have to research this more.
 
if you don't mind me asking what you will be using it for first. if its just your own enjoyment. then cool. but a lot of the springiness of a bow is in the line and how much pressure its tighten too. not the bow itself. If your wanting this for a convention. And this is why im really posting this. Conventions usually have strict rules on weapons. A normal one i have seen with bows is the string can not be put to any pressure minus keeping it straight when your not holding it. Enjoy and have fun
 
if you don't mind me asking what you will be using it for first. if its just your own enjoyment. then cool. but a lot of the springiness of a bow is in the line and how much pressure its tighten too. not the bow itself. If your wanting this for a convention. And this is why im really posting this. Conventions usually have strict rules on weapons. A normal one i have seen with bows is the string can not be put to any pressure minus keeping it straight when your not holding it. Enjoy and have fun

I`m using it for Films. It doesn`t have to shoot exactly like a real bow, but it needs to have the right amount of tightness to launch an arrow.
 
I`m using it for Films. It doesn`t have to shoot exactly like a real bow, but it needs to have the right amount of tightness to launch an arrow.

That's still a functional bow. My advice would be to simply build your piece around an actual, cheap replica bow - I'm sure you'd be able to find a cheap archery kit for not very much.
 
I imagine you could use a more dense rubber (like they use for casting prop guns for films) and casting it around a flexible metal rod/shim. The metal rod/shim would give it some strength but remain flexible and the rubber would look good with a nice paint job. I'll have to draw up an example for you!
 
I imagine you could use a more dense rubber (like they use for casting prop guns for films) and casting it around a flexible metal rod/shim. The metal rod/shim would give it some strength but remain flexible and the rubber would look good with a nice paint job. I'll have to draw up an example for you!

Do you have any exact names and places to find them? Also what kind of rod/shim would work?
 
Thanks! I really appreciate your help :)

Sure thing!

So, casting wise, this is the same principal here with this prop hammer-


Now, i'm not sure how rigid something the size of a bow would be with a material like PT Flex. You might want to look at some of smooth-ons more rigid Flex-It! Foam Rubber series-

http://www.smooth-on.com/Rigid-and-Flexible/c10_1121/index.html

The same hanger kind of method could apply here. You could use some sort of plastic rod....I'll have to see what I can find as an example!
 
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That's sounds great! Just one problem. How could I add the rod in the mold without it leaning/lying down on one side? In the Video the guy stuck it in while it was in the mold. But that would be hard for a bow cause it's not perfectly straight.
 
That's sounds great! Just one problem. How could I add the rod in the mold without it leaning/lying down on one side? In the Video the guy stuck it in while it was in the mold. But that would be hard for a bow cause it's not perfectly straight.

Yeah, I thought about that after I posted the video..

Use a heat gun to bend the plastic rod to the shape of the bow. Then if you do the bow in a two part mold, you could pour half and suspend the rod in the foam rubber when it starts to cure. Then put the other half of the mold on and pour the rest. That idea might be better in my head, but hopefully it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about! Does anyone else have any ideas that would work for the plastic rod? I think we might be onto something here! Haha!
 
Yeah, I thought about that after I posted the video..

Use a heat gun to bend the plastic rod to the shape of the bow. Then if you do the bow in a two part mold, you could pour half and suspend the rod in the foam rubber when it starts to cure. Then put the other half of the mold on and pour the rest. That idea might be better in my head, but hopefully it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about! Does anyone else have any ideas that would work for the plastic rod? I think we might be onto something here! Haha!

I was also thinking of something that involved doing half and half. This has nothing to do with my thread but while we're talking about casting material and it seems you know a lot. How strong do you thing this stuff is? http://www.shop.brickintheyard.com/Poly-15-3X-Gallon-Kit-20-Lbs-153XU20.htm I need something cheap to cast about 15 helmets for some Films. But everything, especially Smooth-On is expensive. If it can break easy, is there something I can do to give it strength? Because actors will be getting knocked down and stuff like that. (It will be safe). But I don't want the helmets to break. Thanks for all your help!
 
I was also thinking of something that involved doing half and half. This has nothing to do with my thread but while we're talking about casting material and it seems you know a lot. How strong do you thing this stuff is? http://www.shop.brickintheyard.com/Poly-15-3X-Gallon-Kit-20-Lbs-153XU20.htm I need something cheap to cast about 15 helmets for some Films. But everything, especially Smooth-On is expensive. If it can break easy, is there something I can do to give it strength? Because actors will be getting knocked down and stuff like that. (It will be safe). But I don't want the helmets to break. Thanks for all your help!

Haha! Glad I can be of assistance! Molding and Casting hand props has been my area of knowledge when it comes to this hobby!

I'm not sure how well the Poly-15 would work for a helmet since it's meant to be used as a back filling material, but the short working time would certainly be optimal for "slush" casting. Could you order a small trial of it an test it? I'm a Smooth-Cast 300 guy (300 is bright white and 320 is off white. the latter of which is better for tinting). If you're looking for a quick de-mold time, 300 Q is the right thing. Take my word for it, though, the "Q" stands for quick. And trust me it is super quick. But, smooth-on products can be expensive. Good ol' Bondo Brand fiberglass resin never hurts. A gel-coat of fiberglass resin, and then a few layers of fiberglass works really well (and is pretty cost-effective).

So, have you come up with any ideas for the molding of this bow?
 
I think I'll give the half and half mold thing a try and use a PVC Pipe because there great for flex and I've made Bows out of them before. Also Demold time is the material curing right? Also what does Pot Life mean? Also I have found casting material. When it says the mix ratio is 1:5, would it be something like 1oz part A and 5oz part B?
 
I think I'll give the half and half mold thing a try and use a PVC Pipe because there great for flex and I've made Bows out of them before. Also Demold time is the material curing right? Also what does Pot Life mean? Also I have found casting material. When it says the mix ratio is 1:5, would it be something like 1oz part A and 5oz part B?

A small diameter PVC might work! Demold time is the time to when the material is fully cured. Pot Life is the amount of time you have to work with the material after it's mixed before it starts to cure!

a 1:5 mix ratio would be this-

the "A" means part A and the "B" means part B!

you would mix this (1 letter = 1 part) - AAAAA into B

That would be by volume. Weight would be a little different. You would need a gram scale (you can get those at walmart for like $15). That would mean (For example) 10grams of part B into 100grams of part A.
 
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