"Flexible" Spartan Boots ( quick tip for foam builds w/ pictures )

Hey all, been a while since I posted a thread up here on the forums. Been busy with tons of other non-Halo props and costumes, but lately I've been upgrading my Reach suit. I've been desperately wanting to re-build the boots, for multiple reasons:

1. They were too bulky, IMO. Which is why I'm building them smaller, both with thinner foam and around a smaller shoe. (Some of you may recognize Vibram 5 fingers in the photos.)
2. They couldn't flex while I walked. They are absolutely stiff, and therefore walking was more awkward then I'd like it to be. (This point brings me to my quick tip)
3. First boots were not to my liking, but they were just that, my first ones. Now that I've got some practice, I'm sure I can make some I'm happy, and comfortable, wearing.


So here is my quick tip: through a series of photos, I hope I can show you how I built around the Reach style boot to allow for some flex while walking/kneeling.

The areas circled in red are where I've glued the foam together.



Inside View





Outside View

Apothacary said:

Hey all, been a while since I posted a thread up here on the forums. Been busy with tons of other non-Halo props and costumes, but lately I've been upgrading my Reach suit. I've been desperately wanting to re-build the boots, for multiple reasons:

1. They were too bulky, IMO. Which is why I'm building them smaller, both with thinner foam and around a smaller shoe. (Some of you may recognize Vibram 5 fingers in the photos.)
2. They couldn't flex while I walked. They are absolutely stiff, and therefore walking was more awkward then I'd like it to be. (This point brings me to my quick tip)
3. First boots were not to my liking, but they were just that, my first ones. Now that I've got some practice, I'm sure I can make some I'm happy, and comfortable, wearing.

Click to expand...

I have had the same idea for a while now. I have been thinking about how to tackle the problem to the point where I have studied up on how to build custom boots, leather tooling and such. I plan on using an old tire for the bottom of the boot, preferably an off road tire with an aggressive thread, the thicker the better. then I will layer and glue foam on top of it, and then I will enclose the boot
welt with the boot pattern of the h4 armor. I hope to have some pictures soon, but time is not on my side at the moment. I hope to see yours finished as they will be rare. my hat is off to you sir for tackling a problem with most of the builds( through my eyes only of course?) that most people seem to just skim through.

Looking very good so far. can't wait to see it finished

How about adding in a Rivet/pin, making the boot basically hinge? You can do this in addition to the setup you already have.
The key/hardest part will be determining the point of rotation at the right spot so that you don't stretch/tear the foam.

While pauldrons go on your shoulders rather than your feet, you could attempt to incorporate their hinged design which allows you move and rotate your shoulder pretty freely.
Here's some pics regarding to what I'm talking about:
http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/Elf/Legolas/Armor/legsPald_judy.jpg
http://fc02.deviantart.net/fs71/i/2012/286/6/9/valknut_pauldrons_by_vofffka-d5hofjj.jpg
http://battle-ready.com/home/wp-content/uploads/pauldron_segmented_1.jpg

I like where you are going with this.
However, I do think you should add a thin layer of reinforcement (maybe rubber or leather, idk) on the bottom of the foam (or the top) to assist with the foam bending.
After a while, the foam on the bottom of the boot will wear out, especially where you are bending it after each step you take.
Adding the reinforcement on the underside will probably make the foam last longer since it will only undergo compression when it bends rather than tension, but it will also make the bend slightly more rigid/stiff than it would be if you put the reinforcement layer on the top.


Also, one of the most important things, is that even though the bottom can bend now, you need to make sure that on the top of the boot, that the toe/front region can slide up and under/into the upper/rear region. If the bottom is supposed to bend but the top is solid, then you'll end up with something that doesn't bend. Both parts, top and bottom, must be able to "deform" or change position in respect to one another in order for the idea to work.
Fortunately, there is the ankle/top of foot cover plate that protrudes over the top side of the boot. You can use it to be the upper region that the toe-piece slides into.

If you want to prevent the toe piece from sliding back out too far, you could attach some elastic straps. They will slacken/loosen when you bend your toe, you just need to make sure that they are at a normal, tight (but low in tension) position when your foot is flat and not bended.


With all of this, you can also give yourself back some height by adding separate soles for the toe and the heel that maintain a groove of separation between the two, which allows the toe to still bend up from the heel.
If you make it so that the two halves meet up flat/evenly when your foot is flat on the floor, this will be another method which will ensure that the top of the toe portion does not slide too far out from the heel section.

Maybe this will give you an idea what I'm talking about, you don't necessary need multiple hinge points though.

I am awesome at MS Paint.

there is a very easy solution to this problem that I used in my Agent Maine build. if you put an accordion piece of foam or fabric on the inside, it allows flexing to occur easily. I apologize for the worn appearance, I'm not allowed to "Start anything" now that there is no immediate convention to go to, and that applies to repairs. (hence the bit of my shoe showing through)



this is a halo 3 boot so the specifics are a little different, but I think the solution can be used on your boot as well, it's just that it is only for the edge and not the entire boot.

What i did was i permanently affixed my hard armor pieces to a wet suit boot. It worked extremely well, im attempting to upload a video, but it's not loading real well

I actually did this for my H4 boots as well. Except for the H4 style boots I have worked out a new method (I like to call it the 3 part boot)



If you can ignore the shoes you should be able to see how it works.





after a few iterations I finally used wood and thin hinges to articulate the boots. So when the boot bends it opens at the bottom allowing for full range of movement.
The final result is a very durable and mobile pair of Halo 4 style boots.





just as a thought if you have an extra pair of shoes/boots that you could incorporate into a pair of boots I would really recommend it as it eases walking significantly.

Not trying to Hijack your thread but it has great potential as a resource for newer members and older memgbers alike.

It also depends how you build the boot too. My buddies in the NCRHA, we layer up our shoes to give us extra height, it sacrifices the mobility. But the guys are almost standing at Master Chief height.

I don't have pictures right now, I'm on my phone. But with the way I designed my show was that I had a gap at my toe. So the shoe I was wearing slid further in when I flexed.

Course it was like walking in clown shoes too, the H4 Scout Boots are awful.

Any of you guys using the "high-heel" method for the boots that some of the girls have used in order to add height?
See Links:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/35790-KAT-ARMOR-BUILD-with-custom-undersuit?p=615574#post615574
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/35790-KAT-ARMOR-BUILD-with-custom-undersuit?p=617967#post617967
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/35790-KAT-ARMOR-BUILD-with-custom-undersuit?p=620977#post620977

Personally, I think the design flows better with the shin pieces than it typically would (check the 3rd link).
Combining the height of the additionally padding and combining it with putting your feet onto an incline is a great way to add height to yourself.
In regards to those pictures, yes, the boot does look small, but I think for a female build it looks perfect. If guys were to go this route, I would suggest having an empty/vacant toe that extend out further for looks.

There is only so much height you can add by adding layers on the bottom before you end up looking like you are on platform shoes from the 1980's.

I'm sure if you wanted to, you could still make the toe of the boot flexible and then spring load the toe of the boot so you could step more naturally onto it.

@rickrtickr I would love to see more details on your boots. Checking out your build thread right now
- EDIT: Not sure if I found any details as to your build process on the boots other than the fact that you used some hose/tubing from a F350.

That is how I made my Reach boots for Kat. ^_^ I did that so they would flex better when I walked and not bunch up or anything.

Just a thought. I was thinking about using elastic band material for areas that I want movement but still want coverage. Wouldn't this hold up better than floating foam? I feel like foam would wear worse and possibly wrinkle or retain bending lines.

WandererTJ said:

@rickrtickr I would love to see more details on your boots. Checking out your build thread right now
- EDIT: Not sure if I found any details as to your build process on the boots other than the fact that you used some hose/tubing from a F350.

Click to expand...

Ok so basically here is an extremely simplified blueprint of the moving parts (black is the boot base, red is a hinge or other highly flexible material)



In concept (and practice over the last 4 months) this design works of the Halo 4 style boots (and is greatly improved by a shoe)

Another thing that i have done is make the base part of the boot out of wood (this prevents warping and better stability from the boot, while adding about 1/2-1 pound each) and i have followed that up with a pair of screws going through the shoe into the wood (followed by a sealer to make it water tight) to add even more durability.

The only downside it that the boot opens up accordion style under the sole but it is not all that noticeable after filler is added along the sides and there fore can only be seen from the bottom.

I hope that cleared that up.

rickrtickr said:

Click to expand...

That does clear things up a bit, but I still have a few questions

What did you use for the hinges (if anything)?
I'm guessing nothing, that's just where there are separations in the wood. The hinges are the shoes themselves, right?

What style of shoe did you use for your base? Walking, Basketball, Tennis, Cross-Training....? It's hard to tell since I don't see a picture of just the shoes.

How happy are you with the height the shoes added?

What did you use as a sealer on the bottom of the wood?

What did you use to cover up your shoe laces (the black material)? It doesn't look like it is foam.

I'm assuming that you pulled out the sole-insert of the shoe, drilled and added the screws, and then you put the sole back over the screws, right? ...or did you drill in from the sides? The former sounds a little uncomfortable, but it also sounds more mechanically durable than the latter.

Since Spartan boots generally have a wider base than our typical shoes, I think it would be possible to make the wooden blocks wider than the shoes and then be recessed on the upper side so that the shoe sits into it. If you go that route, it would slightly help with the gaps you get when you bend your shoe, but you need to make the blocks angled along the edges they meet up at on the sides otherwise it won't bend at all lol.

I've been thinking about how I want to do my boots, and I think rather than screwing the shoe into the wooden blocks, my idea was to use strapping (which I think Carpathia did with his boots) in order to make a non-permanent attachment to your shoes. Sure, you'll probably have a pair of shoes that are still dedicated for use with the boots, because the boots are likely going to be made to go around that particular pair of shoes, but I'd still prefer a non-permanent attachment.
With basically the "internal sandal" you make from the strapping, from there, I would permanently fix the ankle guard/plate to the top side of the shoe, and then have the top side of the shoe capable of opening up, being hinged near the toe of the shoe.

I will add a counter-point to a sandal/strapping method; the permanent/screw-attached boot-to-shoe probably allows for the boot to move more easily with the shoe's flexing and movement -- when you bend the shoe, the boot bends. I have a feeling that with the sandal/strapping method, the boot will be somewhat resistive or rather, it may slide around on you in relation to the shoe.

This will help me with the armor for Filip,who is made by me,and i will probably start doing it on my peped boot and boot tip after the shin I am doing now.

WandererTJ said:

That does clear things up a bit, but I still have a few questions

What did you use for the hinges (if anything)?
I'm guessing nothing, that's just where there are separations in the wood. The hinges are the shoes themselves, right?

Click to expand...

The hinged went through a few different tests as I was working with the boots, (originally they were 1/8 inch craft foam glued to the first base also made out of foam) As the boot sits I have three layers of "flashing" (an extremely thin layer of metal meant for use in between sets of siding) with all three layers on top of each other the metal is a little more than a mm in height allowing for a durable bend as well as a spring of sorts to recenter the boot when standing.

WandererTJ said:

What style of shoe did you use for your base? Walking, Basketball, Tennis, Cross-Training....? It's hard to tell since I don't see a picture of just the shoes.

Click to expand...

I used a pair of old tony hawk skate shoes similar to what is pictured.

WandererTJ said:

How happy are you with the height the shoes added?

What did you use as a sealer on the bottom of the wood?

What did you use to cover up your shoe laces (the black material)? It doesn't look like it is foam.

Click to expand...

I added a 3-3 1/2 inch lift (Which seems like a lot but figre that the toe is lifted about 1 1/2 inches so the heel is not to noticeable when walking.

Plastidip was used to seal the wood and then another layer of foam was added to serve as a temporary sole, I am planning on installing a rubber sole later.

1/8 inch craft foam sealed with plastidip.

WandererTJ said:

I'm assuming that you pulled out the sole-insert of the shoe, drilled and added the screws, and then you put the sole back over the screws, right? ...or did you drill in from the sides? The former sounds a little uncomfortable, but it also sounds more mechanically durable than the latter.

Click to expand...

yes I removed the insole and put the screws in.

WandererTJ said:

Since Spartan boots generally have a wider base than our typical shoes, I think it would be possible to make the wooden blocks wider than the shoes and then be recessed on the upper side so that the shoe sits into it. If you go that route, it would slightly help with the gaps you get when you bend your shoe, but you need to make the blocks angled along the edges they meet up at on the sides otherwise it won't bend at all lol.

Click to expand...

this is the marvel of the Halo 4 style boots each boot has a natural over hang on the side so that the expanding bottom is only view able from the underside of the boot.

Hey guys sorry to post my thoughts. I actually did a contoured halo 4 boot with diving boots. They have the realistic split toe, like in game. And I could affix the pieces to them. Giving me a cool, comfortable, flexible boot.