The Complete Respirator And Safety Guide

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Sean Bradley

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The Complete Respirator and Safety Guide

Overview of hazardous materials and safety precautions



There are certain materials commonly used in the creation of costume armor that are hazardous to your health and should ONLY be used with proper safety equipment, ventilation and in accordance with the manufacturers safety recommendations.



Mjolnirarmor.com and the 405th costume armor group insists on the responsible use of these materials by its members and guests to these sites in the creation of costume armor.



These hazardous materials include but are not limited to:



jean4Lrg.jpg


Polyester or 'Fiberglass' resin is a two part liquid plastic that is commonly sold for repair projects. A kit consists of a quantity of resin and a smaller quantity of catalyst or hardener. Adding the hardener to the resin in the manufacturers specified ratio (usually 1/10) will cause the liquid resin to cure to a very hard, yet brittle plastic. Using this resin in combination with fiberglass cloth yields a reinforced composite material that is strong, lightweight and rigid.



Polyester resin is a particularly dangerous material because of the fumes that it gives off in an unmixed state and during the curing process. Short-term effects of these fumes are dizziness, nausea and skin irritation. Long–term effects of overexposure can include nervous system (brain) damage, asphyxiation, and cancer related hazards.



For further information, the Material Safety Data Sheet for this material can be found here:



http://intranet.risd.edu/envirohealth_msds...rglassResin.pdf



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Bondo is a two-part putty for the cosmetic repair of dents in cars, created by the Bondo Corporation. While the term "Bondo" is a brand name for this company's product, it is commonly used in the U.S. as a genericized trademark to refer to all auto-repair putties or so-called plastic body fillers. Bondo is a polyester resin product that when mixed with a hardener (an organic peroxie), or catalyst, turns into a putty which then sets and becomes rock-hard.



As bondo is variant of Polyester resin, it carries with it all the same hazards and potential for long-term damage, see above.



For further information, the Material Safety Data Sheet for this material can be found here:



http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msds/Docs/wcd00008/wcd00821.htm



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Urethane resin is a low viscosity two part plastic that is frequently used for casting. The resin part of a urethane product is not very hazardous. This is because it is not actually a "urethane resin." Instead, it is any of several types of resins such as polyesters, polyethers, polyols, epoxies, and so on. These resins do not become "polyurethane" until they are reacted (cured, hardened, etc. ) with a diisocyanate. These diisocyanates are the problem.

Diisocyanate hardeners are capable of causing severe respiratory allergies and lung damage. Most notably, they cause a debilitating incurable occupational illness called "isocyanate asthma." Sudden respiratory spasms and anaphylactic shock on exposure to diisocyanates also has resulted in death among workers using urethanes. There have been cases in which deaths occurred suddenly and without warning in people with no prior history of allergies.



For further information, the Material Safety Data Sheet for this material can be found here:



http://www.usa829.org/USA/urethane.htm



ct2-16_superglue.jpg


Cyanoacrylate or ‘Super Glue” is the generic name for substances such as ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate, which is typically sold under trademarks like Superglue and Krazy Glue. Cyanoacrylate adhesives are sometimes known as "instant adhesives". The acronym "CA" is quite commonly used for industrial grades

Cyanoacrylates bond skin and eyes in seconds. Cyanoacrylates give off vapor which is irritating to eyes, mucous membranes and the respiratory system.



For further information, the Material Safety Data Sheet for this material can be found here:



http://www.surlok.com/msds/1415.htm



quickcure.jpg


Epoxy or polyepoxide is a thermosetting epoxide polymer that cures (polymerizes and crosslinks) when mixed with a catalyzing agent or "hardener". Most common epoxy resins are produced from a reaction between two parts. Epoxies are frequently used as glue or hardeners in the craft and creations of costume armor.

The primary risk associated with epoxy use is sensitization to the hardener, which, over time, can induce an allergic reaction.Both epichlorohydrin and bisphenol A are suspected endocrine disruptors.According to some reports [5] Bisphenol A is linked to the following effects in humans:

• oestrogenic activity;

• alteration of male reproductive organs;

• early puberty induction;

• shortened duration of breast feeding;

• pancreatic cancer



For further information, the Material Safety Data Sheet for this material can be found here:



http://www.2spi.com/catalog/msds/msds04964.html





Saftey precautions



Fumes and Vapors:



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Many of the materials used in costume armor making are hazardous but can be used safely by taking certain saftey precautions. First and foremost, most of these products require the use of a Organic Vapor Respirator. In addition to this precaution, saftey glasses and latex or nitrile gloves will protect against skin absorbtion and irritation from these chemicals.

There are many types of respirators designed for different uses. For the use of materials that cast off harmful vapors and organic fumes (Polyester Resin,Bondo,Urethane Resin, Epoxies) an OSHA or NIOSH approved respirator rated for fumes and organic vapors is absolutely necessary. These respirators use a cartridge filtration system that both filters and chemically neutralizes these hazardous chemicals.



Appropriate Respirators for fumes and vapors:



http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xhw/R-100393827/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053



http://www.amazon.com/3M-R6311-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator/dp/B0009F5KDS



Work with plenty of ventilation, and be safe. Don’t cheap out of your health, it WILL cost you later in life.



Dusts and Particulates:



3M9211.jpg


The afforementioned respirators will filter dust and particualtes as well as fumes and vapors. If you wish to extend the life of your organic vapor respirator, you may want to use a different respirator while sanding.

A good dust mask will create a proper seal on your face, and will not allow unfiltered particulates to pass around the mask and into your lungs. Higher end dust mast are far more effective at this than cheap paper masks.



Skin Absorbtion/Irritation:

6515014618507.jpg


Latex, vinyl, or nitrile gloves will protect the exposed skin of your hands from skin irritation as well as from chemical burns, and absorbtion of the chemical through the porous membranes of your skin.



Eye protection:

safety-goggles.jpg


In additon to the previous measures, eye protection will prevent liquid splashes, and dusts from entering your eyes. Eyes can be extremely sensitive to these chemicals, and eye protection is a serious issue. As in all safety precaustions, it is better to wear it, that to regret it later.





I hope that this guide prepares you for the materials that you come into contact with in this hobby. Be sure to read ALL accompanying saftey warnings with EVERY material that you use. If you have any questions, or would like advice on a particular material, please let me know.





Be safe, and make cool armor!



-Sean





******* Additional information******



As a complement to Sean's great thread, I would like to add this.



In Europe (atleast in Scandinavia) we have a different system for respirators, with various labels. The most common label is A1. The A stands for that it can handle organic fumes and vapors, in a system of A1, A2 and A3. What differs these from each other is how packed the charcole is, A1 has less packed charcole than A3, and is often the cheapest one. A3 is pretty unusual, more common is A1 and A2.



These will protect you from the fumes and vapors, but will not protect you from any type of fiberglass dust or 2-component spackling paste like Bondo. It will practically go right through, and your body will not be able to break down the dust, that gathers in your lungs.



To get protection for this you will need to get a P3 filter, which you could add as a supplement to your normal respirators. These does'nt cost much, and will save you your health. These does'nt have an expire date as the charcole filters, and will work as long as you could get air through it (information gathered from Procurator, the biggest distributor of personal safety equipment in Sweden).



Please take in mind that a normal white dustmask wont give you protection against the dust! You will suffer from it when you get older, and your medical bills will be extremly much higher than the filter price, since the filter cost about as much as a pizza.



If you wanna make your charcole filters last as long as possible, then you should put them in an sealed plastic bag after you have used them, and keep them there ( another hint from Procurator).



I will warn people from Sweden to not use Biltema safety equipment, since they are bad quality, the headmaster of the Polyester department from theirs told me he did'nt use a respirator himself! That makes it quite hard to know anything about it then, and I bought 3 respirators from the which leaked. I would though recommend Jula's MSA Respirator which has A2 + P3 filters that I use, which they get from Procurator. It's a bit pricy, but safety should be the last thing you start saving on.



A common combination you could ask for in your local store is A2 + P3 , which will give you full protection against both the resin fumes and the dust.



Best Regards,

Tahu
 
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Hey Sean, I see that your getting tired of all the "Does this work as a rezprator?" Topics. As long as they read the stickies (which they seem to not be doing anymore...) there shouldnt be any more of that kind of topic. - Ice
 
good idea to post this, now we have something to tell people to read when they ask about respirators...
although if you are completely outdoors then i don't see the need for a cartridge based mask but thats just my opinion.
 
You will still inhale fumes EVEN if you are outdoors, just not in as great of quantity.

Inhaling fumes = brain damage.... why would you want to risk it?
 
I don't think anyone has specifically mentioned that the cartridges in an organic vapor respirator will wear out after use. The documentation in my respirator (3M 6000 series with 6001 organic vapor cartridges) states that the cartridges need to be replaced after 40 hours of use, or 30 days after you open the foil bag that they are packaged in. (If you keep the respirator in a sealed bag, the filters probably last a little longer, but that's off-label use and you're on your own.)

You will eventually have to replace the cartridges. They won't be able to protect you after they fill up with resin vapor, so pay attention to how long you've been using your mask.

New 6001 cartridges are only $11 a pair, it's really cheap to stay safe.
 
:D thanks for the link i didnt know they were so cheap so im gonna buy one then start resining my helm (once i finish making it i only have the back of it left.. :D) so again thanks.
 
Sean Bradley said:
You will still inhale fumes EVEN if you are outdoors, just not in as great of quantity.

Inhaling fumes = brain damage.... why would you want to risk it?


Beating the dead horse here. The 3M mask, with the two filters, is the best investment anyone can make who gets into this hobby. Working with Vrogy and TheRob yesterday I learned this, but not the hard way. Bust out the 3M mask and went to work with the fiberglass, resin and mud. FUN!
 
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Hi I was wondering, if I attach and seal 2 hoses to the resporators instead of the cartridge and have the other end of the hose stretch out to where its safe to breath, would this be safe? Sorry I just hate the idea of having to replace cratridges.
see illustration
solution.jpg
 
No joel, you will suffocate and die alot if you do that. :eek:

Basically there isn't enough capacity in your lungs to draw new air into the tube, and to push the CO2 out.. the Co2 will continue to build in the length of the tube until you pass out from asphyxiation.

The filters don't have to be changed daily or anything... maybe once every 6 months or so.. is it that unbearable?
 
Sean Bradley said:
No joel, you will suffocate and die alot if you do that. :eek:

Basically there isn't enough capacity in your lungs to draw new air into the tube, and to push the CO2 out.. the Co2 will continue to build in the length of the tube until you pass out from asphyxiation.

The filters don't have to be changed daily or anything... maybe once every 6 months or so.. is it that unbearable?
oh ok i see, thanks. the reason i was worried about the filter changing was because I read somewhere that they had to be changed like after 40 hours of use or 30 days after opening the package( since they had a chemicals in them that help filter supposedly).
 
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Take it from the voice of experience - use the full respirator.

I probably did my lungs a small number from only using a simple elastic surgical mouth cover to do around 7-8 resin jobs and around 5 sanding sessions....and yes I now know how big an idiot I was.

Just buy a respirator and you will be happy.....and I know everyone has probably lost all respect for me now that I've mentioned how finite my original understanding was concerning the hazards involved. I pray I don't regret it later.

Thanks for posting this. So nobody goes and makes my mistake to a potentially worse degree.... :eek:
 
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