Custom Halo Figures?

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Tater Mane

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Has anyone customized any of the new Halo 3 figures (or ANY Halo figure) to resemble their own character in H3?

If so, please post pics!

I am waiting for series three, just so I can have my Rogue helmet >_<

EDIT: BTW, I don't just mean switching the armor, I mean giving them a full paintjob and whatnot.
 
Ok so for any of you who have NEVER ever customized an Action figure. The first place to stop at is FFURG.com.
They have tons of tutorials on Assembly painting detailing etc. That is where I got my start with action figure customizing about 3 years ago. Great community, and they will be more than willing to help. Make sure you read all the tutorials on the main page before you ask a Q in their FFORUMS.
 
If you plan on doing a custom halo figure DO NOT use enamel paints on it! Go for acrylic, if you want good paint apps try to use an airbrush.
 
For high-detail figures, I find it bes to hand brush them, like the new Halo figures for instance.

Airbrushing figures is generally not advised, unless you want to add some shading or battle-damage.
 
Tater Mane said:
For high-detail figures, I find it bes to hand brush them, like the new Halo figures for instance.

Airbrushing figures is generally not advised, unless you want to add some shading or battle-damage.


I'd rather airbrush, when i use a brush you can see all the brush strokes :oops:
 
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Then thin EVERYTHING down.

Use a brush with microscopic hairs, thin your paint down, and use multiple thin coats instead of one or two thick ones.

Also, this is the paint I use for small things...

cp0225d1.jpg


There are no brush strokes whatsoever. Not many colors come in gloss, but most people clear-coat their figures, so it doesn't really matter.
 
Ah, Apple barrel, On Articulated Figures like these, the paint will CHIP LIKE NONE OTHER.
Use Tamiya acrylic. They come in a wide variety of bright colors aswell as military tones. These acrylics are tough as nails, and very smooth. Use sable brushes, NEVER use artificial fiber brushes. And then when your are done, Spray it up with a cote of Testors Dull Cote. Its about 5 bucks for a mini spray.

heres one of my favorite sith that I have done over the years. Pain in the rear to make, had to crack a Pilot Obi-wan torso, and add some putty and Gah it was a mess. Turned out well though. I used all of the above on this guy.

P1000480.jpg
 
B&GProps said:
Ah, Apple barrel, On Articulated Figures like these, the paint will CHIP LIKE NONE OTHER.
Use Tamiya acrylic. They come in a wide variety of bright colors aswell as military tones. These acrylics are tough as nails, and very smooth. Use sable brushes, NEVER use artificial fiber brushes. And then when your are done, Spray it up with a cote of Testors Dull Cote. Its about 5 bucks for a mini spray.
Didn't know sitting on a shelf would cause the paint to chip.

Thats what clear coating is for.
 
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Tater Mane said:
Didn't know sitting on a shelf would cause the paint to chip.

Thats what clear coating is for.


On Ball Joint figures Like the new Mcfarlanes or an of the new Joes or starwars figures since ROTS a clear cote is not always going to protect the paint on the joint. Hasbro and MF design the joints to be tight as possible so they don't get loose later and become unposable. This results it paint chippage when you bend the ball joint into itself. Tamiya is a tougher brand and will stand up for the most part. Some rare cases a thin layer of super glue over the o-ring of the ball joint is what is needed to protect the paint(not a fan of this because you gotta continually move the joint around until the glue dries or the joint freezes.)
If your figure will not be posed and will not be "played" with then you can certainly use Apple barrel. Personally I find the 3 dollars for a 6 ounce bottle is worth it to allow me to pose and position my figures.
 
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Hand brush is difficult to make smooth, I can see it good for detailing, but if you're going to spray an entire chest or helmet of a figure, I'd spray paint it using modeling paint from testers and their air brush kit.
 
B&GProps said:
On Ball Joint figures Like the new Mcfarlanes or an of the new Joes or starwars figures since ROTS a clear cote is not always going to protect the paint on the joint. Hasbro and MF design the joints to be tight as possible so they don't get loose later and become unposable. This results it paint chippage when you bend the ball joint into itself. Tamiya is a tougher brand and will stand up for the most part. Some rare cases a thin layer of super glue over the o-ring of the ball joint is what is needed to protect the paint(not a fan of this because you gotta continually move the joint around until the glue dries or the joint freezes.)
If your figure will not be posed and will not be "played" with then you can certainly use Apple barrel. Personally I find the 3 dollars for a 6 ounce bottle is worth it to allow me to pose and position my figures.
I don't paint the joints >_<
 
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AoBfrost said:
Hand brush is difficult to make smooth, I can see it good for detailing, but if you're going to spray an entire chest or helmet of a figure, I'd spray paint it using modeling paint from testers and their air brush kit.

Dude its sooo easy to make smooth, just use high quality paints and you'll never have a problem. PollyScale, Tamiya, and Finally games workshop are all major bang for their bucks. high quality super smooth
 
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