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VoodooChild said:
I looked at it before I posted this, must have missed that part. But nonetheless I think I found what I need to do and got a approximation. Thank you!


Cool..

You can check Robo's thread as well I believe his formula is there as well... I am slowly working a a scaling method as well which I have the boots part posted in the Noob area as well since this is a very common question.


Doug
 
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Thanks for the instructions on posting. Don't worry about me, I'm more of a reader but if I get stuck I will ask. I'll do my best in contributing to this community :D
 
I cant remember if i asked this b4 to someone but here it goes again! Do you Just bondo the cardboard weapon, or do you have to cut it open then fiber, or just resin then bondo? Im really lost on making the cardboard harder, (I KNOW THAT CARDBOARD IS ABSORBTENT! I JUST FORGOT HOW TO)
 
There's several ways to go about making weapons...

- some use somewhat of a wooden sub frame and apply the card stock over it.

- Some people just apply a couple coats of resin, sand lightly paint and call it done

- some fill the weapon with expanding foam... there's several threads that discuss it, its risky because you could ruin your weapon if you get impatient and put in a lot of foam.

* if you plan on adding either a PVC barrel or a wooden dowel for a barrel, I would suggest reinforcing the part of the weapon that the barrel is going to be fastened to. Easiest (not saying best, just easiest) is to trim down a piece of wood, then glue/resin it into place. it doesn't have to be a huge piece, 1 1/2 inches deep should be plenty. I rarely ever use a larger piece that that. Then drill into the wood from the outside and attach the barrel that way (AFTER you apply the resin to the outside). Before you fasten the top of your weapon, you should be able to insert the piece of wood and glue it into place. be sure to use plenty of glue!

if you decide not to reinforce the inside with anything, I would suggest at least reinforcing the handle.

All of my weapons have been made either out of Plexiglas, wood or Styrofoam base with fiberglass shell

wood is a sponge thus paper is a sponge as well.

hope that helped answer your question.
 
Hy everyone I am from Brazil and I want built the Mark VI, but I have a problem, so I would like know if you can help me in a question.
Where I find the pelvis, cruisse and the greave from Mark VI High Details, because I try find and don't encoutered nothing or what another Mark that I can use that parts to make my master chief.
And another question is how you do for dress (equip) your armor and fix in the body, because I try find any suggestion here in the forum and I don't find.
Thanks for every thing. :D
 
junior brasil said:
Hy everyone I am from Brazil and I want built the Mark VI, but I have a problem, so I would like know if you can help me in a question.
Where I find the pelvis, cruisse and the greave from Mark VI High Details, because I try find and don't encoutered nothing or what another Mark that I can use that parts to make my master chief.
And another question is how you do for dress (equip) your armor and fix in the body, because I try find any suggestion here in the forum and I don't find.
Thanks for every thing. :D

first off check the Pep index for the files you need pep index

secondly u need some sort of undersuit (check the creation disscusions stickies) then u will probably want to go with industrial velcro (not the stuff you can get from a supermarket)

finally don't forget to use the search function (it's ur friend)
 
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Hey, Im kinda new to these forums, I would just like to know would using Caulk be a good filler material for something that has a strong outer surface already? I'm not sure I would be able to use expanding foam, however Caulk is an easy material to find.

My project is to make the Buster Sword from Final fantasy 7 (maybe the advent children sword, if i have enough time.)
During my move to another house, the construction workers left behind a large roll of Sheeted metal , about 16-20 feet long and 6 inches wide , they never came back for it.
Here is a picture.
Picture1.jpg


I was wondering what would you opinions be as to whether using Caulk in combination of cardboard or wood fillers inside the sheet metal would allow my project to be fairly solid. Please let me know what you think.


Plan B: Use the plastic making method from using Milk and vinegar, although I don't even have experience in that so I would also like to know if anyone would like to lend their advice to me. Does anyone know the strength of the plastic produced from milk in vinegear?
 
Having done construction for a few years... my dealings with that kind of rolled metal is it won't hold its shape the best unless you crease it or securely attach it. You may have better luck using wood base and gluing the metal to it. If you want lighter there's always the fiberglass on construction foam approach...

If you are looking to bring it into Sci-fi, Anime or Gaming conventions however, many of them have a NO METAL policy(the larger ones anyhow), meaning if your sword or large prop is made of metal or has metal exposed anywhere besides the handle, its not allowed. This I know because I help run a Midwest anime convention.
 
Make it out of wood and spray it.

Seriously. It's less hassle than making it out of metal will be for a vast number of reasons - most pertinent, ease of construction and safety when using it.
 
thanks for the insight, however I don't have easy access to power tools and wood(mainly power tools) because I live in a small apartment with one parent. I was thinking of using wood and gluing the metal to it, although cardboard would most likely be what I would be using, which is why I wonder if using caulk to fill/glue it would be useful because super glue doesn't work well with cardboard and glue gun doesn't put together a strong enough bond.

For those that haven't seen what I'm trying to make, it's this.
bustersix5kz.jpg


5 feet 7 inches overall (I assumed the advent children buster blade is about the same height as Cloud , which is 5'7. Also my height :)


P.S. I don't plan on going to conventions with my sword WHEN(not if) I finish it. :)
 
Hey I've been having an issue with the site itself and I can't find the options to change it. Here is a Screen
annoying.jpg


I can't see all the replies to posts as normal which I was able to before so that means something has changed. As you can see, all the replies are shortened to outline format and its really quite annoying.

Any help would be appreciated!


*EDIT* So I just figured it out and I'll try to see if it randomly changes again and post incase this is a problem for anyone else too.
 
I had that problem when I first started viewing the site. took me a while to see the
-> Options button beside the star rating
-> Display Modes
-- Outline displays it the way you have it
-- standard displays it the way most people are used to
 
Is there a shop, or a place to by something that look likes a cocking bolt (meaning the loading/cocking bolt, sets say like the battle rifle, or a bolt action sniper rifle? Or know where to buy supplies to make one? :D

Spraynoob (Ralph P.)
 
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I have no idea where this goes, but I'd first like to read some opinions on what might go wrong.

I thought of a possible alternative to fibreglass. Like some others I am not allowed to use fibreglass due to its price, toxicity, messiness, smelliness, etc.

Epoxy and acrylic sheets.

While it may take more effort to cut using a special perspex blade and Styrofoam cutter, it costs about the same as fibreglassing, perhaps cheaper.

US Plastic Corporation

The 1/16 sheets should be best.

Pepakura: Cutting
The tagged pep pieces can first be printed on normal all purpose paper, cut out without the tabs, but have the mountain/valley folds marked with coloured markers.

Do one small section at a time, every piece that needs to be folded has to be cut off to be an individual piece. In example, if a piece has to be folded twice, you have to cut it where it needs to be folded.

Fit all the pieces on the acrylic sheet, take as little space as possible but leave enough room for cutting. Glue the paper faced up on the bottom side of the acrylic with a small amount of hot glue. [The paper has to be arranged faced up, and then place the acrylic on top of it.]

Then cut it out using a Styrofoam cutter. I'm sure these can cut through thin acrylic but it might melt a little. If it melts too much and forms a thick layer of acrylic in one area, that can be sanded or cut off with the [super!] sharp perspex knife.

Pepakura: Attaching
Remove the paper on the inside by wetting it [with a spray] and removing it with your nails, a coin or toothbrush. Scratching it on the inside is fine.

Hold it together using hot glue or super glue on the inside. Use modeling clay to hold the pieces together temporarily while gluing.

Use hot glue for larger areas, but super glue for smaller areas. Be careful with super glue. The [toxic!] fumes will change the colour of acrylic to white, but don’t worry about it. Super glue dries quickly, and if you make a mistake you can’t fix it.

Coating
I do realize that when you glue two sheets of thick material together at a different angle, there'll be a gap between. So first epoxy all the joints on the outside. When dry, epoxy again on the inside. A few layers of epoxy can be used on the inside for more strength.

Spraying
Use plastic spray-on paint or sand the entire thing and paint it with the normal aerosol paint.

Padding
Padding should work as usual. Spray-on truck bed liners will stick to it, because it's plastic too.

Usually after the fibreglassing process, the pieces get padded up a bit on the inside. However with this method, there is only a few layers of epoxy. Bulk it up a little with those cheap washing up sponges. Just glue it to select places using hot glue to achieve a comfortable fit. High density foam should do fine, but I believe washing up sponges are cheaper.

Strapping
This acrylic should be quite strong, drilling holes with a low RPM drill to fit whatever bolts should be fine. High torque is not necessary because it's quite thin. If using nylon straps, maybe a tab can be built on the insides of the pieces [ie. Bicep piece] and thread a strap through, then tighten with one of those "Tri-Glide" buckles from the Complete Noob List

You know what? Just glue the strap on. [Lazy ftw.]

It's definitely not suited for sitting on--as is a normal fibreglassed piece--so the butt piece should be removed before sitting. In one of the stickies, I remember someone mentioned using a tactical vest that had a seemingly redundant piece of material on the butt. It was used to hold the butt piece when it’s removed for sitting.

What do you think?
 
The Hunter II4 said:
how do you put a signature or armor stats with out doing it manually everytime i post

towards the top of the screen
-> My Controls
left hand side 1/2 way down
-> edit signature

the armor stats:
http://heavenofanime.org/maker/

you make it, save it to your computer, and upload it somewhere like photobucket for instance. When you need to update it replace the image with something else. The code to make it appear in your signature should be given to you once you upload it somewhere
 
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