Shellshocker's Mk-vi In Progress

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Humboldt_spartan said:
hey dude looks like your making some progress here... every thing but what you have already mentioned seems good , and my only advice that i can give is one my first helmet , i let it sit in the window on a warm day behind glass and it managed to get warm enough for me to bend some of the warpage out of it (i did end up throwing that helmet out , only because it was the wrong paper to begin with) but ive notice with most things that , object+heat=pliability ,im not telling you to light it on fire or any thing (wear a respirator if you do lol) but or even if some one in your house has a hair dryer , it should work


sorry, but I'm not really getting your advise 'ㅅ';;;

The windows in my rooms are open-able only on the top parts, so I can't do what you said...
and I thought about the hair dryer, but I don't think it worked so good...
 
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Hey, so you know... YOUR NOT THE ONLY KOREAN!!!! My name is Dallin. My Korean name is TeLin (no lie!). I live in Utah, I am a freshman in high school, even though in MY district the 9th graders still go to Jr High Campuses. I am currently working on armor too. I just started about a week ago. I finished pepping a helmet and an assault rifle just recently. I am not working on a full suit of Mark VI though. I am working on my matchmaking spartan (even though I don't have xbox live {plus my username is my xbox account name}). It consists of a Mark VI helmet, Hayabusa Chest, and EVA shoulders with the rest of the suit. I think Im the first!!!
 
dpchief216 said:
Hey, so you know... YOUR NOT THE ONLY KOREAN!!!! My name is Dallin. My Korean name is TeLin (no lie!). I live in Utah, I am a freshman in high school, even though in MY district the 9th graders still go to Jr High Campuses. I am currently working on armor too. I just started about a week ago. I finished pepping a helmet and an assault rifle just recently. I am not working on a full suit of Mark VI though. I am working on my matchmaking spartan (even though I don't have xbox live {plus my username is my xbox account name}). It consists of a Mark VI helmet, Hayabusa Chest, and EVA shoulders with the rest of the suit. I think Im the first!!!

1.Wait, are you a Korean who has a Korean citizenship? cuz I was meaning that...
2. If you could see, I joined in first, and I started mine way before a week ago... well this doesn't really matter...
 
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Humboldt_spartan said:
hey dude looks like your making some progress here... every thing but what you have already mentioned seems good , and my only advice that i can give is one my first helmet , i let it sit in the window on a warm day behind glass and it managed to get warm enough for me to bend some of the warpage out of it (i did end up throwing that helmet out , only because it was the wrong paper to begin with) but ive notice with most things that , object+heat=pliability ,im not telling you to light it on fire or any thing (wear a respirator if you do lol) but or even if some one in your house has a hair dryer , it should work

Oh, Oh! I get it now!

So I could use a heat method to make my forearm piece to be pliable, and I could readjust it's shape!

Do you think it would work? Cuz my piece is already resined and glassed...
 
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If you're still having the problem with not being able to find a good left thigh piece, but have a good right thigh piece, you could always load the right thigh into designer and use the "Flip Pattern" command under the "2DPatternWindow" tab. That would create a mirror of the right thigh, hence, a left thigh.
 
carpathiavh99 said:
If you're still having the problem with not being able to find a good left thigh piece, but have a good right thigh piece, you could always load the right thigh into designer and use the "Flip Pattern" command under the "2DPatternWindow" tab. That would create a mirror of the right thigh, hence, a left thigh.

I found out about that way........ just after I found new files of both thigh pieces..

well, still thanks for the information 'ㅅ'
 
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Humboldt_spartan said:
it should work , and if any thing its worth a shot considering the time you put into making it

I wasn't thinking about the time, but I was just doubting about it cuz, I didn't think fiberglass and resin would become like that by a hair dryer, cuz that seems like they are weak to heat...

but still, I'll give it a try to it~!
 
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yeah , i agree about the hair dryer , i was actually thinking about a heat gun but you would just have to be careful with it , but im sure you know how to take precautions , and i forget where but i remember some other people on here "salvaging" warped pieces by heating them up , so i dont know if its a "tried and true" method , but its worked before
 
I used to do alot of fiberglass work, and the heat gun/hairdryer method is still your best bet to get the parts to move to where you want them. You're probably going to have more luck with the resined helmet than you will with the forearm. What I'd recommend doing is taping structural supports in, using either fiberglass reinforced packing tape -looks like this or black electrical tape. Those are the two types of tape that can hold up to higher temperatures (at my current job, we use the fiberglass reinforced tape to hold together glass mold halves that get heated to 700 degrees before going into production). Once everything is taped into place, and holding the position you want, set the hairdryer to high and heat up the entire helmet. The resin will start to relax and everything will move to where its currently held. after 30-45 minutes, pull all the tape off, check for symmetry, and if necessary, try again.

As for your forearm, keep in mind that the human forearm isn't perfectly round, and is more of an oval shape when viewed from a cross section. If your arm fits into the forearm piece fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Don't remake it unless there's a need.
 
Humungotron said:
I used to do alot of fiberglass work, and the heat gun/hairdryer method is still your best bet to get the parts to move to where you want them. You're probably going to have more luck with the resined helmet than you will with the forearm. What I'd recommend doing is taping structural supports in, using either fiberglass reinforced packing tape -looks like this or black electrical tape. Those are the two types of tape that can hold up to higher temperatures (at my current job, we use the fiberglass reinforced tape to hold together glass mold halves that get heated to 700 degrees before going into production). Once everything is taped into place, and holding the position you want, set the hairdryer to high and heat up the entire helmet. The resin will start to relax and everything will move to where its currently held. after 30-45 minutes, pull all the tape off, check for symmetry, and if necessary, try again.

As for your forearm, keep in mind that the human forearm isn't perfectly round, and is more of an oval shape when viewed from a cross section. If your arm fits into the forearm piece fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Don't remake it unless there's a need.


I tried the hairdrier, but I think it isn't hot enough to do anything... So, I think I should look for a heat gun... do they have those in walmart? If so, what section?
And does this method only work with resined parts or resin& fiberglassed parts?
plus I have a question.
When we let the resin dry, we put it in a nice warm place as possible to dry up faster. So, I was thinking, wouldn't hot heat dry the thing faster?



DSCN2181.jpg


this is a picture of comparing my parts.

the one in the bottom is the one I have a problem with, and the one above is which I think is done perfect. you could see not only the problem of the hole, but also the details are twisted which is making it kind of bad looking.
 
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well if you feel ballsy try putting it in the oven for a lil while , keep a close eye on it though.i did this with my visor to get it to fit in my helmet . but heating it up higher than the curing temperature should make it soft enough to bend back into shape ,
 
they do have heat guns at walmart. you're probably gonna need help finding them, as I have no idea as to which department they'd be in. Probably paint or tools.
If you don't want to drop 60 bucks, you can use the oven method, just be aware it'll put alot of stink out when you do it. As the resin heats up, it starts to gas out again, meaning it'll make the apartment smell like resin. You're looking for an overall temp of 200-250 degrees, and you're only gonna need the helmet in the oven for 10-15 minutes. I'd start to pull it out and check every 3-5 minutes, and go from there. You want to keep it in long enough the resin starts to get tacky again, and the overall flexibility of the paper/resin parts to get alot closer to how it was before you resined. just tape it into place before you put it in to get it close, and keep adjusting the tape as you go. It'll get floppy, then once it cools, it'll actually be a little harder than it was when you started.
Another thing I forgot to mention, and which you should be aware of, is that the tape will naturally try to release as it gets hot (the adhesive on the tape itself begins to soften, and will slide off. just make sure that anywhere you put the tape on, give it alot more tape on the helmet to keep it from sliding off.
Also, don't use electrical tape. I know I said earlier that this will work, and it will, but not if you're putting it into the oven. The heat will soften the plastic of the tape, and it won't have any pull on it. So if you're going with the oven, use the fiberglass strapping tape.

The positive side of heating the helmet back up again is that alot of the odors naturally released from the resin will dissipate. Normally, when you glass something, it'll smell like resin for weeks, months, even years. Heating it up will make the fumes go away, as the resin is re-curing. You don't necessarily have to put it in the oven... leaving it outside on a hot day a couple of times will do the same thing.

IF your forearm part is that warped, I'd suggest starting over. Once the details start to significantly warp, its a huge pain in the ass to get them back to where you want them to be. It'll be less time and effort to remake the part than to try and fix everything with heat, bondo, etc.
 
Humungotron said:
they do have heat guns at walmart. you're probably gonna need help finding them, as I have no idea as to which department they'd be in. Probably paint or tools.
If you don't want to drop 60 bucks, you can use the oven method, just be aware it'll put alot of stink out when you do it. As the resin heats up, it starts to gas out again, meaning it'll make the apartment smell like resin. You're looking for an overall temp of 200-250 degrees, and you're only gonna need the helmet in the oven for 10-15 minutes. I'd start to pull it out and check every 3-5 minutes, and go from there. You want to keep it in long enough the resin starts to get tacky again, and the overall flexibility of the paper/resin parts to get alot closer to how it was before you resined. just tape it into place before you put it in to get it close, and keep adjusting the tape as you go. It'll get floppy, then once it cools, it'll actually be a little harder than it was when you started.
Another thing I forgot to mention, and which you should be aware of, is that the tape will naturally try to release as it gets hot (the adhesive on the tape itself begins to soften, and will slide off. just make sure that anywhere you put the tape on, give it alot more tape on the helmet to keep it from sliding off.
Also, don't use electrical tape. I know I said earlier that this will work, and it will, but not if you're putting it into the oven. The heat will soften the plastic of the tape, and it won't have any pull on it. So if you're going with the oven, use the fiberglass strapping tape.

The positive side of heating the helmet back up again is that alot of the odors naturally released from the resin will dissipate. Normally, when you glass something, it'll smell like resin for weeks, months, even years. Heating it up will make the fumes go away, as the resin is re-curing. You don't necessarily have to put it in the oven... leaving it outside on a hot day a couple of times will do the same thing.

IF your forearm part is that warped, I'd suggest starting over. Once the details start to significantly warp, its a huge pain in the ass to get them back to where you want them to be. It'll be less time and effort to remake the part than to try and fix everything with heat, bondo, etc.


Thanks for the info.

but, yeah, 60 bucks is a bit tough, and the only oven I could find around me is the one in the common room, which I don't want to poison the people all living in this dorm :p

I guess I will make another forearm by Normal Details. The HD pepping itself was a pain in the ass and I wasn't crafty enough to make all the pieces fit well, and it got messy. I wouldn't mind so much with some insymmetrical parts :)
 
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Just some progress updates

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A new handplate.
The new one is much better, making me think to throw a way the left one

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And I have a new pair of shoes! YAY!

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Still wrestling with the helmet.
I found out I could solve the warpage with a good piece of tape...

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working on the shin piece...

Doesn't that kinda look like the spiker?

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finished!

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So, now my parts lower than the knee are finished pepped
 
Looking good man! Did you get bored making both shins at once? I'm doing only the right side of the body, and then hopefully after I'll go back and do the other side. I figure I won't get tired of the pieces that way. Did you? Your stuff looks really really clean man. Good job! What ever happened to the warped forearm? What a pain to assemble, and an even bigger pain to Reassemble!
 
timonemycat said:
Looking good man! Did you get bored making both shins at once? I'm doing only the right side of the body, and then hopefully after I'll go back and do the other side. I figure I won't get tired of the pieces that way. Did you? Your stuff looks really really clean man. Good job! What ever happened to the warped forearm? What a pain to assemble, and an even bigger pain to Reassemble!

One part I hate about the human body is that it is symmetrical!
It was a pain to do the same parts(and the shins are 'exactly' the same yu know :) ), but I got over with it.

I didn't do anything to the forearm yet.
I was concentrating on the shins.
 
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So, update in a while.

I wanted to do some fiberglassing, so I got a respirator, but I found the cap of my fiberglass resin was sticked on because of the resin :(. I was wrestling with it for an hour and finally decided to throw away the f***ing thing. Since then, I didn't get new resin.

While I was wrestling with it, I looked at my helmet and though it was crappy.

So I decided to make a new one!

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picture of while making it. I was actually thinking the lower half was done pretty good.

DSCN2207.jpg


A mask for the old helmet :)

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DSCN2214.jpg


Near the end of finishing it, I was thinking... 'Holy cr*p! It's worse than the old one!'
The brim had a severe warping so it made me rip it off and glue it again.

You could see in the last picture that the left part of the brim is still twisted upwards.

crap...

and you could see that visor part of the new one looks much bigger.
Actually the old one's visor part is smaller.

And now I'm looking at the old one and thinking

'Hmm... It isn't so bad after all...'


... I might well as sell one of them after finishing both...
 
Spartan 051 said:
same thing that happend to me when i folded a FS helm the brim twisted right were yours did


I found my helm straighted up a lot when I put the cardboard visor in as apposed to just leaving it open. I also used a heavier card such as a 200g/m2 which helped a lot.
 
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