Clay Over Resined Helmet?

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MisterChief

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Is it possible for me to put clay over my already done helmet? I want to make a mold and I want to put more detail, so could I just put a half inch or so layer of clay over my done helmet? Also what type of clay would I use and would it stick?
 
Oil Clay.

It might fell if you leave it for too long, but you can put a small chunk and leave it there for 2 weeks.
 
LastSpartan said:
Oil Clay.

It might fell if you leave it for too long, but you can put a small chunk and leave it there for 2 weeks.
I'm basically going to scult it in one or two days and then cast and mold, but by then it will be under the pressure of casting so it wouldn't matter theoretically, yes? Oh and would it damage the helmet in any way?
 
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I think you're having some problems with molding. You cannot cast before molding.

You make a mold of the helmet.

Then a mother mold.

Then you open both molds and remove the helmet.

You then close both molds (there won't be a helmet inside anymore)

You cast with resin, plaster etc.
 
LastSpartan said:
I think you're having some problems with molding. You cannot cast before molding.

You make a mold of the helmet.

Then a mother mold.

Then you open both molds and remove the helmet.

You then close both molds (there won't be a helmet inside anymore)

You cast with resin, plaster etc.
Ok ya thats what I mean. I got the terms messed up. The point is i want to mold from the already done pepakura helmet that has been resined and the such.
 
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I used oil clay to add detail and smooth some areas on my pilot helm after it was finished paint and all, I even used the clay to seal up the visor area and vents to keep the rebound out. No damage and some Windex took it right off with a little elbow grease.
 
You can absolutely cover a resined project with an oil based clay to add detail. I have done this to help smooth out and a lil detail to the busa shoulder attachments. You can make a mold with the clay on. I do suggest spraying the clay with clear coat because SOMETIMES the oild based clay reacts with Rebound 25. What you intend to do will be totally fine.

Ithica
 
I'd caution against water-based as well. I used it as a base for my WIP Daft Punk helmet, and it shrank/cracked like nobody's business. Not a big deal for me since I'm going over the entire thing with bondo for the details anyways, but if you're going to be sculpting your detail work, oil-based is definitely the way to go.
 
I would use either Klean Klay or Chavant NSP. I've used both of those with silicone and neither one interfered with the silicone curing. :)
 
Beau Nidle said:
I would use either Klean Klay or Chavant NSP. I've used both of those with silicone and neither one interfered with the silicone curing. :)
I'm going to buy the Chavant NSP from HobbyCast cause I know that this clay is good because the mods use it.
 
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MisterChief said:
I'm going to buy the Chavant NSP from HobbyCast cause I know that this clay is good because the mods use it.

Good choice. You'll need to warm it up to soften it a little, in large blocks it isn't really hand pliable.
 
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Ithica said:
I do suggest spraying the clay with clear coat because SOMETIMES the oild based clay reacts with Rebound 25.

Ithica

Now is that because it was oil clay but sulfur based clay? On the Smooth-On site they say Modeling clay that is Sulfur free does not require a release agent. If it is not sulfur free, it needs to be sealed with acrylic spray. There is a link below: look under silicone.


Smooth-On Link
 
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MisterChief said:
I'm going to buy the Chavant NSP from HobbyCast cause I know that this clay is good because the mods use it.
Are you getting soft, medium, or hard?
 
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JediStumpy said:
Now is that because it was oil clay but sulfur based clay? On the Smooth-On site they say Modeling clay that is Sulfur free does not require a release agent. If it is not sulfur free, it needs to be sealed with acrylic spray. There is a link below: look under silicone.
Smooth-On Link


No you don't need a release agent. The clay is sulfur free oild based but for some reason it sometimes reacts with Rebound 25. I can not explain why and it is not just me. Adam has had the same issue so he recommended to me to spray it with a coat of clearcoat and that works just fine. The reaction is not always, I had it happen on a lil spot on one mold and that was it. Adam had it happen I think on his ODST Mold in a spot. Anyway this lil tip is better safe than sorry. I hate having to fix stuff that I can prevent which I do often...lol.

Ithica
 
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Is it where the rebound seems to delaminate a bit? If so I had that happen on the lower rim of my Pilot helm mould. I will be sealing all my models with primer from now on anyway though.

Cheers and good luck with it!
 
Bigalt424 said:
Are you getting soft, medium, or hard?
Medium, just do I have enough amount of play with it.

Ithica said:
No you don't need a release agent. The clay is sulfur free oild based but for some reason it sometimes reacts with Rebound 25. I can not explain why and it is not just me. Adam has had the same issue so he recommended to me to spray it with a coat of clearcoat and that works just fine. The reaction is not always, I had it happen on a lil spot on one mold and that was it. Adam had it happen I think on his ODST Mold in a spot. Anyway this lil tip is better safe than sorry. I hate having to fix stuff that I can prevent which I do often...lol.

Ithica
Oh ya.. Always better safe than sorry. I'll will be coating it
 
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i think you have to have sulfur free clay or the silicone wont cure properly. also if you spray your clay with clear coat, can you ever reuse the clay?
 
rachciav said:
i think you have to have sulfur free clay or the silicone wont cure properly. also if you spray your clay with clear coat, can you ever reuse the clay?

While I'm not absolutely positive on this, I don't think the clay will be re-usable as it seems it would have paint/clear coat chips in it (just seems like it would make it hard to work with later). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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