The "official" Rellik Nissassa Wip

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Here's to hoping you can finish by Halloween. I haven't worked on my armor in a month or two (which I'm now regretting) so I won't be even close to finishing by the 31st. At the earliest, I could have it done by the end of December or early January.
 
ponchato said:
Here's to hoping you can finish by Halloween. I haven't worked on my armor in a month or two (which I'm now regretting) so I won't be even close to finishing by the 31st. At the earliest, I could have it done by the end of December or early January.



Thanks for the encouragement. It helps.

I am determined to have the basis of the suit finished in time, and there is a HUGE Halloween Costume Competition in my local area which I have heard that the grand prize is usually $500 or more, so I am determined to win that as well.



Gotta go rebondo and sand some more, so look for updates tomorrow/ later today.
 
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All right.



So, I had to take a break from my work as I couldn't finish for Halloween, and I was completely drained.



Now, I am back with an update.



Tis is Bondo Phase II:



WorkArea4.jpg


WorkArea2.jpg


WorkArea3.jpg


WorkArea1.jpg


Thigh.jpg


Knee-Calf.jpg


Thigh2.jpg


Chest.jpg


Crotch.jpg


Leg.jpg


ThighsandCrotch.jpg


UpperBody.jpg


HeadandShoulders.jpg


FullOverview.jpg




As you can see, the pieces are much smoother than before, but still not detailed at %100. I have also learned that sometimes, a Dremel can do more harm than good, and other times it does what no other tool can.



I have been using a mouse sander, which gets the job done much faster and more efficiently, plus then you don't feel like your arms are going to fall off, and I amon my third can of body filler, so you will notice the color differences. But, all in all, this is coming all quite well.



Most of the body is all standard pep, and you can tell which pieces are HD and which are not, so from now on, I will do only HD when I do this again.



I also grabbed most everything that I need for my under suit.



Let's take a look:



Rocky2095ParatrooperBoot.jpg


SetteSuit.jpg


TacticalGlove.jpg


WaderInfo-1.jpg


Waders-1.jpg




The waders I picked up are obvious Brown on the box, but turn them inside out and you've got a felt-like black over all that is the perfect get up. $40



The Sette Pressure suit was a steal for $80



The gloves, only $9.99 from eHobbyAsia



The Boots, Rocky 2095 Waterproof Zip Up Paraboot. I got em for the suit, for paintball, for the winter, and cause they're awesome.



I hope that you all like the updates, and if you want more info on anything you see here, let me know.
 
ProgressChartcopy.jpg




Just a heads up, I've got my first customer that will be purchasing a suit.



I need to put an add in the calssifieds, and I will sometime soon, so if anyone is interested in an entire suit, or just parts, pm me, and I'll post in the WIP when the classifieds are up.
 
OK. Well, I'm in the final stages of the MARK VI Helmet, and this baby will be finished and molded tomorrow.



Take a look, and let me know what you think:

Helmet1.jpg




Helmet2-1.jpg




Helmet3-1.jpg




Helmet4-1.jpg




Helmet5-1.jpg






This helmet is the first piece of armor that is officially for sale, but you have to CLICK HERE to visit the ad in the classifieds, and hurry if you want to get a great holiday discount.



So, I've already got one lucky guy who will have this thing chillin under the tree along with the rest of the suit which I will be finishing up and posting later.



CLICK HERE to hurry to the classifieds and get your helmet for a sweet deal before it's too late.
 
YES!



Finally, I am back on my week off, and today I was able to finish the Helmet detail as well as the mold.



This is my first ever molding experience, and it went quite well.



The teaser shots of the molded helmet are as follows:





UpperAngle.jpg


LookslikeIcing.jpg


Facial.jpg


CloseUp.jpg


Cheeky.jpg


BackSide.jpg




Inspiration.jpg




That last shot was actually the Legendary Edition box from Halo 3. If you cut it open, that's the inside!

I hung mine in my office room for inspiration (which the room is currently under work station transfer and the mold is curing, so it stinks like crazy right now).



More updates tomorrow, and more helmets to ship. Thank you all for your support and your business.



God bless.
 
Minkyboi said:
wow great armor man



and i never even realized the legendary box opened up that way...good thing i saved it :lol



I am glad that I could share something that you never would've learned anywhere else, and thanks for the comment.



Also, heads up everybody. I will be making the mold jacket and cracking it open in about an hour, so stay tuned.
 
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gingersnapples said:
well, its been 16 hours, pics or SNAFU?

(SNAFU means Situation Normal All F*** Up)



Hahahaha. I got pics, but I went out last night, came home, watched the Tonight Show, and hit the sack.

I'm finishing the mold jacket now, and I got some pics of that (more teaser stuff. hehe).



MoldingArea.jpg


Jacket6.jpg


Jacket5.jpg


Jacket4.jpg


Jacket3.jpg


Jacket2.jpg


Jacket1.jpg


Insides.jpg




As you can see, I have found another function for casting resin: Making the mold jacket.



Mix your batch and stir it up. Let it sit about 2 minutes, and as it starts to thicken into a syrup, you can spread it by hand or rubber spatula over your mold to create the mold jacket.



How do you crack it open to release the mold and the helmet? Stay tuned to find out.
 
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YES!

Mold jacket is complete, with approx. 15 minute dry time. Check it out:

FullJacket.jpg




So, I'm gonna go kill some time, and I'll be back for the "Grand Opening."
 
very creative way of using the resin for the mother mold

I'm just curious.



Where does it split in half? from the front? I sorta see a line there.



Were any registration keys made? I'm not sure if I saw them in the pictures.



Considering the mold looked like it was in the finished stage of thickness.

They are needed to reset the silicone into the mother mold shell for casting.



The methods you used for making this mold are very different than I've see before.



I'm curious to see how this turns out.



good luck man :)
 
Roadwarrior said:
Most of you're pics are broken, the jacket looks nice ^.^ .



Image links fixed, thanks for the heads up.



SupermanExtreme1 said:
very creative way of using the resin for the mother mold

I'm just curious.



Where does it split in half? from the front? I sorta see a line there.



Were any registration keys made? I'm not sure if I saw them in the pictures.



Considering the mold looked like it was in the finished stage of thickness.

They are needed to reset the silicone into the mother mold shell for casting.



The methods you used for making this mold are very different than I've see before.



I'm curious to see how this turns out.



good luck man :)



Well, funny you should ask how it turns out.



As it was, the casting resing jacket was not thick enough, and bonded to the mold so well that I practically had to break it off.



So, what I did instead was put the mold into a box, and started to pour the mold jacket around it.

Then, realizing how much resin would have to be used (and knowing how expensive it is), I decided to use filler.



THEN, I was like, "Hey, what about that expanding foam stuff?" so I shot that into the box, and compressed it as it dried.



So, I am half way through that experiment, and I will throw some pics on here tomorrow.



Should be interesting, so stay tuned.
 
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I think you should have had the mold completed before you began taking orders for your helmets

Since it is your first mold.



I can tell, because you missed a lot of key aspects of mold making.

since you are making a "glove mold" you could have added some registration keys and a dividing wall with clay or foil so that both sides of the mother mold don't stick together when cured.

Which was the problem.



It also appears that you didn't add a neck. When you cast from that mold the plastic around the opening will be thinner due to no run off point from the mold.



When Casting, the Resin should go past the actual helmet line and onto the run off point which is the neck and it could have been made out of a cardboard or card stock paper. This will ensure that the helmet is strong and the run off point is thin and that run off (neck) area can easily be trimmed off.



I hope I don't sound like a jerk.

It's just my opinion.

I want this to go well because people have already given you money.





so once again Good luck :)
 
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