Smooth...methods?

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f0xtr0t09

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I admit I haven't been here long, but I have noticed the minor detailing in peoples projects. After a while I noticed that some models before painting, look like porcelain, while others look like a bunch of foam inside a piece of armor. I have not been able to find what makes the difference, and I would like to know the methods to getting the material to be that smooth.
 
f0xtr0t09 said:
I admit I haven't been here long, but I have noticed the minor detailing in peoples projects. After a while I noticed that some models before painting, look like porcelain, while others look like a bunch of foam inside a piece of armor. I have not been able to find what makes the difference, and I would like to know the methods to getting the material to be that smooth.





Do you have an example of what your talking about, in my case my project has been sanded like mad down to 220 grit paper. In some cases depending on how smooth your looking for you can take it further by wet sanding with a higher grit paper.
 
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In my experience/lack thereof, it's all in the bondo.



I attempted my first helmet with straight bondo... the results produced came out like the foam stuff you're talking about.



Then I mixed some fiberglass resin in with it.



Adding resin to your bondo makes a HU-YOOGE difference. On my ODST helmet (after I finish bondo'ing the outside completely I'm putting up a WIP and mini-tut) I use a mixture of 2 spponfuls of bondo, 1 spoonful of resin, and 30 drops of liquid hardener. This mixture hardens relatively quickly, but goes on very fluidly. You can use spreaders to get it as thin as you want and it's not too liquid that it runs all over the place. It stays where I want it to be and never runs off. I generally then just use a power sander with some 80 grit to get the majority of it, then add another layer of the same amount in the same place, then rinse and repeat. Usually my 3rd layer is the final and that one gets a good 80, then 100, then 220.



Play around with that and see how you like it compared to regular bondo.
 
thanks, Im planning on taking everything in mass, doing all pep pieces, then resining and fiberglassing all pieces, and so on and so forth.:)
 
Just so you know you can use the bondo either way, with or without the extra resin. The real key is how much hardener you add to the mixture. The advantage of adding extra resin is you get a creamer batch and it allows it to settle in voided areas better. The disadvantage is if add to much resin you can end up with a runny mess and cause yourself more work.



What I have noticed on a lot of projects is the following:



1- Mixing too much bondo at one time, and then trying to use all of it as it begins to harden. (This creates that clumpy look you see on some projects. Mix small batches so that you can spread it smoothly)

2- Making the mix too hot. (Even with small batches this can create a problem for you right out of the box, you will end up trying to spread paste leaving clumps)

3- Trying to cover too much of the project at one time. (Again mix small batches and spread in the uneven areas. It may be a slow process but work up your layers one at a time sanding in between layers.)



By mixing small batches you will learn quickly on how much hardener or resin to add for different stages of your project. At the same time you will not waste your bondo and it will save you more time during the sanding period.



Doug
 
Bondo does not produce fine detail without tons of work. You can get far superior results by using casting plastics but they are much more expensive. By the way Bondo is simply cheap polyester resin mixed with talc. You can mix polyester resin with other fillers for better results but then comes that expense problem again.
 
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