Reasons Why Not To Make Halo Armor For Paintball/airsoft

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guido666

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DISCLAIMER: You, and only you are responsible for what you do. I, nor the 405th/staff/members, take any responsibility for what happens to you while wearing costume armor during any activity, including sitting on your couch doing nothing. I, along with most people here, think that trying to make costume armor to wear while participating in sports is a terrible idea, and hopefully this post will help you understand why.



Let me start by saying that yes, it is entirely possible to make costume armor that is capable of being safely and resiliently worn to participate in activities like paintball and airsoft. I don't like seeing posts that just say "it can't be done", because it very obviously can, and all those posts do is reduce credibility of the poster. My argument is that, even though it can be done, it's not worth it, gains you little or no benefit, and thus if you are wise you should not want to make it. If you take the time to read this post, you will hopefully see some of the issues that you would have to overcome to make it, and decide that it isn't worth the investment (or alternatively, prepare yourself to spend thousands of dollars and hundreds/thousands of hours of work actually making something that will work, because that's what it would take).



  1. Safety first! Under no circumstances should you use anything to protect your eyes that is not designed and certified for the activity you are doing. If you are playing paintball, that means you MUST be wearing real paintball goggles, that are designed to keep your eyes safely intact in your head. I've seen a guy get his eye shot out at the paintball field, and it's sad. This means you are going to need to play with a paintball goggle in your helmet, and you are going to have to put in considerable work to make the helmet fit (and even then, it still might not look right). There may be gold paintball goggles out there, but you still have the same problem of getting it in the helmet.

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  2. Master Chief is a video game character. His armor, when created in the real world, is cumbersome, restrictive, bulky, and limits motion and vision. The more work you do to try to overcome these problems, the more you deviate from the desired replica look. Paintball and airsoft are demanding activities, that benefit from being highly aware, highly mobile, fast and reactive. There is nothing to be physically gained by wearing this much armor, except looking really cool from the sidelines (which is where you'll be when some scrawny kid that CAN fit completely behind the bunker shoots you out).
  3. You will have to design better ways to attach, strap, and pad the armor. Accept right now that this will be expensive and time consuming. The current methods that people use to attach their armor work well for costuming, but will not withstand the rigors of highly physical use. Small straps will tear, standard sized rivets will pull out of the armor plates, the straps will be uncomfortable and chafe away your skin. Your best bet would be to design the armor to connect onto already existing items, like baseball catcher's shin guards and lacrosse chest/shoulder protectors. Alternatively, you could try to design padding and strapping systems similar to those found on sports equipment, but this will probably be time consuming and involve quite a bit of trial and error to perfect.
  4. You will need to make the armor plates tougher. They must be able to withstand the impact of the projectile, but also must be able to survive the impact of YOU, as you slide in behind bunkers and slam into walls and barriers. There are a number of ways to do this, but they will all cost a lot of money. You can fiberglass them heavily, you can mold them out of thick plastic, you can use stronger / more exotic materials like high-impact plastic or carbon fiber, or you can do something else to beef them up like casting them out of metal.
  5. The paint won't last. You would have to put special consideration into the way in which the armor is finished, to take the abuse. This would probably involve molding the armor with an appropriate color added to the plastic, or at least black. You will then need to choose highly flexible and durable coatings, because most paints will crack off if the armor is flexed. You will not be able to use Bondo, or other body fillers, since they too will crack off when flexed. These special pigments, paints, and coatings are going to cost you more time and money to experiment with and implement.



These are the kind of things you are going to have to deal with to DO IT RIGHT, and have armor you can actually wear, that will survive long enough to make your effort worth it. I'm sorry if it sounds like a "dream crusher", but I'm saying it CAN be done, just that it will take a lot of money and work.
 
Nice job on this Awesomeness, something I have found that can protect Pepakura Armor is if you use a coat if spray on rubberized undercoating it will protect better between the paint and resin and make it easier that if paint does get "knocked" off by paint balls that there won't be a lot of repair to do.
 
As I started to describe in the original post, the question that most people ask, "Will armor take a paintball hit?", is really the WRONG question. If your armor isn't capable of taking a paintball hit, it's not anywhere near strong enough to take the abuse of getting crushed between your body and the environment. Real paintball armor, like you would buy in a store, is about 1/8" thick plastic shell, sewn to some sort of padding. It takes the abuse by being flexible, and the material is quite similar to the plastic that makes a Rubbermaid tub, or maybe a little harder. It also isn't painted, because if it was, it would crack/flake off. Also consider knee/elbow pads.



With Halo armor, you aren't really able to make it from materials that are flexible as store-bought paintball armor. (If you did, you'd have to get really creative with coatings/paint too.) So you're railroaded down the path of making it rigid, but you still need to account for the fact that it will flex some, you're never going to get it completely rigid (and still have it thin/light enough to wear it).



On my paladin armor (in my pic), the smallest/thinnest piece is the armor plate on the inside of the forearm. It's about 8" long, 6" wide (although it's curved), 3/16" thick in the thinnest center section, and 1/2"+ around the border sections. It's 100% strong enough to take paintball/airsoft hits, and I can stand on it without flexing it enough to even crack the paint. That is going to be the minimum acceptable strength, in my opinion. Keep in mind, as the size goes up (like a helmet), it may need to get thicker, or have ribs for rigidity added, to maintain resistance to flexing.



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If you actually want to make something that is going to survive the abuse of paintballing, not merely "take the shot", it's going to take a significant amount of reinforcement. Rubberizing the inside probably helps, but it means that the armor itself already isn't strong enough to take a severe beating.
 
hey, what if I made a assault rifle out of molded plastic, put a gun inside and maybe added clay to fill up the empty spaces,

I was thinking SmoothCast 320 in a think coat.

would you think it would last? what kind of paints would I have to use to make it not chip off or getting ruined.

thanks :)
 
MikyVengeance said:
hey, what if I made a assault rifle out of molded plastic, put a gun inside and maybe added clay to fill up the empty spaces,

I was thinking SmoothCast 320 in a think coat.

would you think it would last? what kind of paints would I have to use to make it not chip off or getting ruined.

thanks :)

the paint would be ruined when the gun took the hit. the paint would stick to the gun. mabey if you finished your initial paint job you put a few acryllic clear coats on so when you wiped the paint ball off of your gun, it wouldnt take the other paint off with it
 
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My armor is molded with SmoothCast 326 with UreFill 3 ceramic filler in it (1A:1B:1-2Filler). If you can make it 1/4"-3/16" thick, it should be very tough. Since you don't typically beat your weapon up nearly as much as armor, it should hold up better than armor. Using the Task high-performance casting resins would probably be smart. "Bedding" the weapon with clay would be heavy, and somewhat ridiculous, I think. You would be better off to wrap the paintgun in cling-wrap and mold release, then inject sturdy foam into the cavity. You could also press it into some epoxy-putty "bosses", to form-fit it at key points, although the less contact it has the greater chance of scratching the paintgun's finish or something.



To me though, this is a terrible idea. On the paintball field I want to be light and fast, not carrying around an extra 5lb on my weapon because I want to "look cool". You wouldn't tape a brick to your paintgun, either. It also reduces access to the paintgun, making it more difficult to remove the barrel for cleaning or to correct malfunctions, etc. I personally never make sacrifices to operational capabilities for looks. Nobody looks cool standing on the sidelines because they failed.



As for paint, if you can get it to adhere well, it should be able to survive paintball strikes, in general. You'll eventually chip some off, especially in "trouble spots" like corners and edges. The more rigid the casting is, the less flexing will occur, and it will largely eliminate paint chipping due to the associated elongation/contraction of the surface. There are pricey "adhesion promoters", that run about $30 per spray can, that drastically improve adhesion to notoriously troublesome plastics, like polyurethanes and polyolefins. Also, using high quality paints, will significantly improve results. I painted my armor using the adhesion promoter, primer, and AutoAir automotive-quality airbrush paints, which cost about $8 for 4oz., and I can tell you that it is very durable. The only places that the paint is significantly damaged is where two armor plates grind over each other.
 
You can go to an automotive store and get a good quality auto primer that is made for urethane bumpers and such... it offers good flex such as the adhesion promoters and may be slightly cheaper in price... but yes, adhesion promoters are always a good idea and one specifically made for the purpose is still worth the extra money
 
you could make a two part mold for the gun you want to portray, keep the mold apart, brush plastic into each piece of the mold and use a two part foam such as foamIt 10, leave it cure in each half, carve out the foam to fit the actual gun, demold each half and strap each half over the actual gun with the carved out foam holding it in place... color the plastic with So-Strong pigments before pouring and then you have no need to paint it... still doesn't help the weight argument AWESOMENESS lays out... it will still add probably 4 (or more) pounds to your weapon but it would make it easy to access the actual gun for maintenance purposes, simply unstrap each half
 
right, thanks a ton guys :)

I have access to mobility, I made a "beta" gun. with all the key points I need. I'm more of a woodsball player so I don't run through corners and such. But I know exactly what you mean :pI just like going with originality. I have an ammo counter which counts up to 60, just like the original halo assault rifle, a remote coil, flashlight and later having a clip that has a built in tool kit inside. I played alittle of close quaters paintball that had me diving into bunkers but I never went head first, just to save the gun ( before I had my AR ).

The beta one I made is almost perfect for me :pexcept it's sturdiness, so I'm going to mold it out of some thick plastic.

cut out room, handle etc with a dremel tool.

My gun alone ( Alpha Black ) weights around 10 pounds alone lol. but oh well ahh

there's a little progress thread under my picutre on my signature.

and thanks for the help once again : )
 
Honestly, I would love to see a bunch of ignorant teenagers running around carrying all this crap trying to play paintball, it would make the game so much easier. But I would be quite insistent that my friends left all this stuff behind, they have enough trouble keeping up with me as it is. ;)
 
paintballing in armour is stupid for the reasons you listed above not to mention the amount of damage you'll do to it

why not just go laserforce wearing your armour and if you go on a costuming night you get prizes for the best costume and the top three players also get prizes
 
I think every costume type group ends up with the handful of peple who want impractical poorly thought out things. Batman costuming groups get idiots who want Batman armor made out of Kevlar (cause yeah, you get shot at a LOT at conventions?) Predator costumers who want Pred suits with real cloaking devices(cause yeah I want to work my ass off on a costume you cant see). Mostly if you really look at it, its usualy people who dont have the experience with actually making costumes and dont really understand the tolerances of materials. Myself I have worked in the film and television industry and been making costumes for years and just end up laughing and encouraging them to go ahead...maybe they just might accidentaly learn something useful while they attempt thier assinine idea.
 
Drgnfyre4 said:
Predator costumers who want Pred suits with real cloaking devices(cause yeah I want to work my ass off on a costume you cant see).

Haha, that's hilarious. I'm going to go around now introducing my invisible friend as a person wearing the world's most accurate Predator costume.



But seriously, I totally agree with you. Making paintball/airsoft armor is not impossible, or even difficult (engineering-wise; time-wise it will be). The armor in my picture would shrug off paintballs, and would easily stop even direct hits from a baseball pitching machine. It's like the old saying "If you have to ask, you can't afford it".



The kids that come around asking about it (and I'm willing to wager that they are all kids) are trying to see what the bare minimum that they can get away with is. They want to take some $5 paper armor, reinforce it with $10 of fiberglass and resin, then paint it with two $4 cans of spray paint and have it hold up to real abuse. That's not going to happen, and the foolishness of risking your eyesight is unbelievable.



And then to top it all off, wearing armor like that would actually be counter-productive. Real soldiers don't even wear that much armor coverage because it would cumbersome and restrictive, and they are worried about getting hit by real bullets.
 
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I think if you really want to have armor for paintball or air soft and you can afford it have it 3d printed out of abs plastic its what they make the look a like kevlar helmets on airsplat.com out of and actually abbs platic is very cheap. But having it printed is a different story. Also I think the best armor would be halo 3's odst armor there's not as much to it and its easier to move in. Just my oppion on that
 
I think if you really want to have armor for paintball or air soft and you can afford it have it 3d printed out of abs plastic its what they make the look a like kevlar helmets on airsplat.com out of and actually abbs platic is very cheap. But having it printed is a different story. Also I think the best armor would be halo 3's odst armor there's not as much to it and its easier to move in. Just my oppion on that

Please look at the last post before answering. Necro/bringing up dead post is strictly forbidden.
 
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