"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
- Thread starter 23Magnum
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Do as many pieces as you can in one batch without having to hurry. If you do one at a time, you'll most likely waste a lot of resin, because there will be a little left over each time. If you do too many at once, the resin will probably harden too fast (unless you use inhibitor or have a slow-curing one - but then you'd have to wait longer to continue working).
If you want it to look good, use body filler and smooth it out. If you don't care, just slap on some paint.
Uhm, that's kind of... unspecific. If everybody did that, you would be reading until you die of dehydration. I suggest you read, read, read and then ask specific questions if you don't understand something or want to do something better.
Hi, im not necesarily a noob, i know alot of the tricks of the trade, but there is just one thing that keeps stumping me, when bondoing do you apply it to the entire surface of the piece then sand down and dremmel down to what you want, kind of like a sculpture? or do you just apply to the areas you want rounded, smoothed, or filled?
I apply it to the areas that I wan rounded. Which is usually most of the piece.
Try using Rondo (resin and bondo combined) instead of strait up bondo. You don't get air pockets and it's easier to sand.
Hi all, as usual brilliant work from all here.
I have a problem that is really getting me frustrated and im hoping that someone can help.
I have created several of the pep forms (shins, forearms, chest and back plate for the mk VI armour but and am using the british substitute for Aquaresin (Jesomonite) to resin the finished pep pieces.
My major headache is that although im using really thick cardstock, as soon as i apply a thin layer of resin to the interior or exterior the card soaks up and starts to sag forming all sorts of distortions. This has made me waste no end of materials and time.
So, onto the question. Is there a decent way of sealing the cardstock to stop the sag i get? obviously as this is first process towards the resined armour i need to get it right or im just wasting my time.
I have searched the forums but so far have not found the answers i have been looking for and im beginning to get a little frustrated so if anybody can help me I will be forever in your debt
Cheers all
I have a problem that is really getting me frustrated and im hoping that someone can help.
I have created several of the pep forms (shins, forearms, chest and back plate for the mk VI armour but and am using the british substitute for Aquaresin (Jesomonite) to resin the finished pep pieces.
My major headache is that although im using really thick cardstock, as soon as i apply a thin layer of resin to the interior or exterior the card soaks up and starts to sag forming all sorts of distortions. This has made me waste no end of materials and time.
So, onto the question. Is there a decent way of sealing the cardstock to stop the sag i get? obviously as this is first process towards the resined armour i need to get it right or im just wasting my time.
I have searched the forums but so far have not found the answers i have been looking for and im beginning to get a little frustrated so if anybody can help me I will be forever in your debt
Cheers all
I'm not familiar with that resin-replacement you're using. If there's a way to increse it's viscosity, you could try that. You could also try to find a different kind of paper that doesn't like to soak up water quite as quickly. Also, try to apply really thin coats.
And of course: You don't have to assemble a model to check how the paper reacts. Just practice on a few fresh sheets if you like.
Uhh......You're talking about the resin, right? You need to add a little bit of the hardener (the clear liquid in the small tube). And by small, I mean about 30 drops for a 1/4 cup of resin. You need to mix it completely and then apply it fast. Once it starts to gel, it's no longer usable.
I need a little help to.
I need to know how your soposed to make the halmet sturdy?
I know you probably have to Fiberglass it or something but im not really for sure what to do?
I also want to know if somone could send me a message peronally telling me how to build a helmet step by step.
I would Gladlly appreciate your help!
Thanx,Happy Halloween!
I need to know how your soposed to make the halmet sturdy?
I know you probably have to Fiberglass it or something but im not really for sure what to do?
I also want to know if somone could send me a message peronally telling me how to build a helmet step by step.
I would Gladlly appreciate your help!
Thanx,Happy Halloween!
A thixotrope liquid is not a gel. Thixotrope means, that you can lower the viscosity of a liquid by applying force. This means (exaggerated example) that you can stir it like water, but it will stick to vertical surfaces without running off nevertheless.
Properties like thixotropy and viscosity are usually depending on which product you use and not on anything that you add later, so if yours is runny like water, try another one. But read the data sheet first, to make sure this one is better suited for the job, unless you want to try them all randomly.
Please take your time to read the stickies. All these questions are answered there. No offense, but if every new member needed somebody to take his hand and spoon-feed him everything, nobody would ever have time to actually build something.
As long as the resin doesn't dissolve the foam, the foam will harden, yes. It probably won't absorb the resin though.
I'd recommend that you read about that subject until you are able to select one yourself. If you don't know anything about safety, you can't really be safe, even with the right equipment.
3M's 6000-line of half-face masks is pretty good, but the filter is the most important part of it of course, and I have no idea how they are classified in Australia. Those masks look like this. The filters on the picture have a European label and are correct for working with paint and resin, but lack the particle filter you'd need to spray paint.
pwnurmom548
New Member
Quick questions;
a. I really don't feel comfortable using fiberglass because I have breathing problems. I'm hoping to use the 'hot glue method' for the inside of the helmet. Which leads me to my question, do I still need a respirator for resin and bondo?
b. I've made other props such as pep'ed weapons, does the same principles still apply, as in, resin'ing the outside and then adding bondo?
Thanks so much for the help.
a. I really don't feel comfortable using fiberglass because I have breathing problems. I'm hoping to use the 'hot glue method' for the inside of the helmet. Which leads me to my question, do I still need a respirator for resin and bondo?
b. I've made other props such as pep'ed weapons, does the same principles still apply, as in, resin'ing the outside and then adding bondo?
Thanks so much for the help.
a) Fiberglass can't be used without resin. Many packages say "fiberglass resin", but that is misleading, because there's no glass in there. Tose titles are to be understood as "resin to be used with fiberglass reinforcement". So, if you want to try your luck with hot glue, then at least for that you don't need a respirator. Bondo is basically resin with filler, so you should use a respirator for that as well. But I guess finding a non-toxic body filler is easy compared to finding a non-toxic way to strengthen a Pep model. Make sure it doesn't crack though, because that glue is probably going to be a little elastic.
One more thing: My guess is that the problematic part for somebody with breathing problems aren't the resin fumes, with the right precautions (work outside or in a separate building (not room, correct respirator and correct use of it) you can keep those away from you almost completely. What is probably going to be more of a problem is the dust you will create when sanding the thing down, and you will do that in both cases.
b) As far as I've gathered: Not completely. Weapons are more complicated because they're hollow and completely closed up. But I'll leave that question to the weapon experts, I haven't made one myself yet.
Hugh Holder
Well-Known Member
I haven't built any weapons yet, but I can tell you that the hot glue method is very effective. Though not toxic, if you're melting large batches of glue you will have some fumes.
The only thing I would be worried about is ventilation, just make sure you work close to an open window or vent over your stove. And also how close your face will be to the melted glue. There are vapors and fumes that can cause problems after a bit of exposure. I just wore the same mask I use for resining without any problems. A wet cloth or bandana will work fine too.
I actually used hot glue for my odst pep. Then I eventually used resin on top of it just to experience working with it. But you could deffinatly use just the hot glue, then harden it with a few coats of smoothcast 320
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