"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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ok, so i've got a helmet ready for resin. I have a respirator with organic filters, overalls, gloves and goggles, im planning on doing it in the shed. Its quite small.
As im living in wales, it's generally cold, and on a warm day it only about hits 15 degrees max . So i was going to use a heat source to let the resin cure
Im planning on using a halogen desk lamp, which heats up alot. The resin piece will be in a large cardboard box with the lamp at the opening. My worry is that , could it get too hot and hit flash point? Im not doing anything until i know whats safe

Thank you


Take box... cut hole near bottom... find or build a cheap and small rack to go inside the box... place resin'd helmet on rack... close box... make hole in top of box... place fan (on low setting) facing up and out... box and contents inside never get to flashpoint... and the constant ventillation will help the resin cure that much faster.
 
I'm just about ready to resin a Magneto helmet, It come out a bit wide at the bottom and the front doesn't quite line up as I'd like. I've made some adjustments but right now the shape is largely being held by some toothpicks and a piece of cardboard I've got taped across the opening. My question is this: If I resin the thing, will it hold the shape I've taped it into, or will it fall back out to it's original, wonkier shape?

Part 2: If this is a problem resin won't fix, could you kindly point me to a more appropriate thread? Thanks again guys!!
 
Hey. I am about to start resining all of my ODST armor this weekend or next. Should I buy bondo and resin to make smooth edges? My friend told me that the mix of bondo and resin would be EXTREMELY TOXIC! Is this true? What is the proper procedure for resin/bondo mix? Can i get everything at my local Home Depot? Thanks for your time.
 
hey this is jus out there but does anyone know about a tut or something related to recon helmets thanx
ps im kind of new on here i dont get on much

Why do you need a tutorial that is specifically about Recon helmets? Just use one about any helmet and adapt the knowledge you gain from it if necessary.

ok, so i've got a helmet ready for resin. I have a respirator with organic filters, overalls, gloves and goggles, im planning on doing it in the shed. Its quite small.
As im living in wales, it's generally cold, and on a warm day it only about hits 15 degrees max . So i was going to use a heat source to let the resin cure
Im planning on using a halogen desk lamp, which heats up alot. The resin piece will be in a large cardboard box with the lamp at the opening. My worry is that , could it get too hot and hit flash point? Im not doing anything until i know whats safe

I'd rather add a little more catalyst and do without the heat box.

Make sure to open a window or the door of the shed, too, otherwise your filters may not suffice.

I'm just about ready to resin a Magneto helmet, It come out a bit wide at the bottom and the front doesn't quite line up as I'd like. I've made some adjustments but right now the shape is largely being held by some toothpicks and a piece of cardboard I've got taped across the opening. My question is this: If I resin the thing, will it hold the shape I've taped it into, or will it fall back out to it's original, wonkier shape?

If the tape stays put and the paper doesn't warp (and those are two pretty big ifs!), it will stay just the way it is now.

Hey. I am about to start resining all of my ODST armor this weekend or next. Should I buy bondo and resin to make smooth edges? My friend told me that the mix of bondo and resin would be EXTREMELY TOXIC! Is this true? What is the proper procedure for resin/bondo mix? Can i get everything at my local Home Depot? Thanks for your time.

Rondo is toxic, but no more toxic than resin or Bondo alone. Read this: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33426-Prop-Making-Safety-Guide
 
Instead of Bondo, is it okay to use lightweight spackle? I've seen some people using it on their helmets, but I'm not sure how it'll be in the long run. Also, is spackle toxic like Bondo, or can I just use a dust mask when sanding?
 
just need to figure out how to get the stench out of it - time might be my only option though.

Buy fabric softner sheets (the type for your dryer) and place a couple in your helmet. If you have a heat lamp, place it over the helmet (opening side up to the lamp) for a little while under it (20 minutes). The fabric sheet will help with the smell. Then anytime you store your helmet, place a fabric softner sheet in your helmet (helps kill the smell of sweat)
 
Buy fabric softner sheets (the type for your dryer) and place a couple in your helmet. If you have a heat lamp, place it over the helmet (opening side up to the lamp) for a little while under it (20 minutes). The fabric sheet will help with the smell. Then anytime you store your helmet, place a fabric softner sheet in your helmet (helps kill the smell of sweat)

Outstanding suggestion - will try it! I was thinking odor eaters... like for shoes... but dryer sheets are a helluva lot cheaper.
 
So I'm working on a helmet and already resined the outside and have one layer of fiberglass cloth on the inside.

How many layers of fiberglass do people normally use? Would 2 layers of fiberglass cloth in offset directions be enough?
 
So I'm working on a helmet and already resined the outside and have one layer of fiberglass cloth on the inside.

How many layers of fiberglass do people normally use? Would 2 layers of fiberglass cloth in offset directions be enough?

Depending the weight/thickness of the fiberglass cloth you used, one layer can be enough. That's all I did: 1 outer layer of resin, and 1 layer of fiberglass inside. Sure, more layers make it stronger and offer more piece of mind, but my suit is holding up fine so far. Hope this helps!
 
I'm using the Bondo brand fiberglass cloth which doesn't list a weight/thickness. It still feels like some areas are just a bit flexible so I may go back and do a "half" layer and just lay some more cloth down in areas that feel a bit weak. Then again, it probably wouldn't hurt to do another full layer for added strength. The only downside would be the additional weight I guess.
 
If any areas feel weak then add more fibreglass. Theres no set number of layers to use its down to how strong you want it to be. I think i only did 1 in mine but add more to any bits that need it. It doesnt exactly make a huge difference to the weight it will still be light so do 2 layers if you want to, just means you use up more cloth and resin. Will probably last longer and be more durable with 2 but its personal choice



Quick question, is it ok to use Bondo with your hands or should you wear gloves? I know its toxic but that comes from the fumes just wondering if its ok to get on your skin or not. Would be alot easier for getting it into corners etc
 
Quick question, is it ok to use Bondo with your hands or should you wear gloves? I know its toxic but that comes from the fumes just wondering if its ok to get on your skin or not. Would be alot easier for getting it into corners etc

It would be a good idea to wear gloves, some Nitrile (surgical) gloves would suffice. Bondo is is just Resin with a filler, and resin is a toxic chemical, so it would be a very good idea to avoid contact with your skin. The dangers of it aren't as severe as breathing it, but any resin that your skin absorbs must then be filtered by your liver (atleast from my understanding of it).
 
Quick question, is it ok to use Bondo with your hands or should you wear gloves? I know its toxic but that comes from the fumes just wondering if its ok to get on your skin or not. Would be alot easier for getting it into corners etc

Quick answer: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33426-Prop-Making-Safety-Guide

Not-so-quick answer: The toxicity doesn't "come from the fumes", but the fumes come from the toxic substance. Breathing the vapours is just one and in this case (but not generally!) the main way the toxin enters your body. Skin contact works, too, just not as well (in this case!).
So, more important than gloves is a respirator with the proper filters (see link above), but gloves certainly can't hurt. If you do it right, there shouldn't be too much contact with the Bondo, so considering that and the relatively short work time of Bondo, those thin examination gloves might actually suffice here. Usually, neither thin nor nitrile gloves work well with polyester resin based products.
 
Thank you

Just wanted to make sure, prefer to avoid gloves unless i have to wear them. Not a fan of wearing them after days in the lab we had to wear them 5 or more hours solid. I have a brand new respirator ready to go, think the filters on my other one were going i was beginning to smell resin through it. Found it actually cheaper buying a new respirator than buying new filters. I wear gloves for resin too to keep it off me but wasnt sure on Bondo if it would be dangerous on skin but being toxic theres no reason it shouldnt be so gloves it is then. I only have nitrile gloves i've used when resining and not had any problems with them. Gloves have been covered in resin but none went through the gloves onto me though my clothes got alot on them the time the cup melted on me.. Hopefully can get onto Bondoing my helmet this week or next
 
I only have nitrile gloves i've used when resining and not had any problems with them. Gloves have been covered in resin but none went through the gloves onto me

You should be familiar with permeation if you work in a lab and have to wear gloves there.

Nitrile gloves will at some point physically break down after they come into contact with the styrene in polyester resin (or Bondo), but the amount of time for which they protect you is significantly shorter than that and its end does not come with any sort of visual indication.
The next time you resin something, just do a little experiment: Take one glove, cut out two identical strips, lay one on the table for comparison and put the other one into the resin. After fifteen to twenty minutes, the one in the resin will have swollen significantly and you will be able to tear it apart like thin air. At this point, the glove would be WAY past the time limit.
 
I know these gloves arent ideal i just wanted something easily disposable and a good price. I had thick gloves but after one use are covered in resin i cant get off and they stay sticky which makes working very difficult. For the short time i work with resin these seem fine to me. I dont get covered in it either just a few small drips if it runs on me or if i actually touch the model to hold it thats about it. I know they wont last a longer time period and will become useless but in my time frame they have been fine. Least im using something, some people seem to do this work with no protection what so ever (not even a respirator) and think they will be ok. I cant find any other disposable gloves for a decent price. I could wear like 3 pairs and extend their usable time frame if i have to. I also change them often to prevent any passing through the glove. Before i knew what i was doing with resin i went to my local hardware store to buy a respirator, they had none of the proper ones i have now. I asked them what would be suitable for using with resin, they tell me the dustmask would do fine. Some people really dont know what they're talking about. No point asking anyone like that what to use

Your safety guide doesnt suggest a good type of glove to use, mainly ones not to use. For this purpose what do you use? I just need them for resin and bondo work. Mainly bondo as i havent really done any model work in awhile now but want to finish ones i've already done which are all at the bondo stage now
 
Hi, I'm new around here. I'm about to start my first helmet. I'm using the pepakura method and I'm planning on making an Assult Rifle afterwards. So when I'm making the Assult Rifle should I resin and fiberglass the interior of each piece before attaching them all together? Because after they are together I won't be able to get on the inside to fiberglass it. Or just any tips on making Pepakura weapons? it seems to differ from most armour making methods from the lack of interior access. But you guys are the experts not me :)
 
Hey. I was wondering if someone could tell me how much bondo/resin i would need to cover 2 ODST shoulder pads, and ODST chest piece, a Recon Helmet, and the center/side pieces. I know that the ratio of bondo to resin is up to me, but i was wondering how much i need to buy. Thanks!
 
Hi, I'm new around here. I'm about to start my first helmet. I'm using the pepakura method and I'm planning on making an Assult Rifle afterwards. So when I'm making the Assult Rifle should I resin and fiberglass the interior of each piece before attaching them all together? Because after they are together I won't be able to get on the inside to fiberglass it. Or just any tips on making Pepakura weapons? it seems to differ from most armour making methods from the lack of interior access. But you guys are the experts not me :)

I don't mean to be rude, you should do your homework and read the stickies. If you have gone back and read several posts earlier, you would have found the answers. This question has been asked many times and answered many times... No wonder the old members no longer respond to these questions any more.

You resin outside. Cut a hole and pour in bondo (mix of resin and bondo). Slush around. Let it cured. Cover the hole and you are done.

Hey. I was wondering if someone could tell me how much bondo/resin i would need to cover 2 ODST shoulder pads, and ODST chest piece, a Recon Helmet, and the center/side pieces. I know that the ratio of bondo to resin is up to me, but i was wondering how much i need to buy. Thanks!

Wal-Mart only sells 1qt size resin. For bondo, they sell 1qt and 1 gallon size. To do the pieces you mentioned, 1 qt each will not be enough. I suggest that you get 2 qts resin and 1 gallon bondo. 1qt bondo is around $7. 1 gallon bondo is about $21.
 
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