"Help!" for: Molding

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We would really need to see dimensions of the helmet. Also, Rebound is good, but it doesn't stretch as much as the Dragon skin, so you will need to use more of the Rebound to make a decent mold than you would have used if you went with dragon skin. Also, since its just the two trial kits, I would create a plan on this before you start slapping silicone on the helmet (to limit waste and make your silicone go further). I used a lot of rebound on my build only because I didn't plan appropriately. I found out the hard way that being ill prepared = headache and wasted material. I used roughly 12-14oz of silicone per layer and I had like 7 or 8 layers on my helmet (way to much). But it was my first experience at it. You will need to take into account the making of mold keys. Im not sure which Daft Punk helmet you are making, but the real popular dome looking one will need a few on it so that it doesn't fall in on itself. I'm no expert, so maybe some of the more advanced molding professionals on this site can way in. Good luck.

-Tony

I'm making the Guy-Manuel Daft Punk Helmet. The "Assembled" Dimensions are H300 W244 D294.
Here's the most recent picture of it:
imag0084bs.jpg


It is complete right now, Don't have a picture of it though.
 
I think you should have enough. The nice thing is you dont have really any undercuts (saves on material), so this may be do-able. Do you have any thixo? If not, you will either need some, for subsequent layers after the print layer (It is recommended to have two layers for the print layer, but I only used one on mine, so I know you can get away with it), or you can mix and mix untill the silicone has started to thicken up naturally.

You said it was complete, but does it still have just primer? If so, Is it Rustoleum? If the answer to both those questions is yes, then you should paint it with some sort of Krylon or other Non Rustoleum paint(You can have regular Rustoleum enamel, I just avoid it just in case). The reason being is, the Rustoleum primer has fish oil in it that has been known to inhibit the curing of silicone.

Anyways, you will need to make keys, they don't need to be gigantic like mine were, just around ice cube sized. So, take that into account when trying to figure out if you have enough material. An ice cube tray can work. You can either leave them as is once they have cured in the ice cube tray, or when you take them out you can cut them to different sized. The keys will keep them locked into the mother mold.

I would imagine you could get away with three to four layers of silicone. Either 1 or two layers for the print layer. 1 thickened layer (at which point you would add the keys) and one more final layer to smooth everything. PM me if you want to ask more questions. like I said, Im not a professional, but I'll try and help.

-Tony


P.S. avoid anything with Latex SIlicone & Latex are arch enemies.
P.S.S. Ben Streeper has a really good video on youtube showing how he molded an ODST helmet (I know they are different, but the principles are the same) This is a really good source of information for the first time molder. Also, I don't believe he used all that much silicone & he has a real good way to make quick mold keys.
 
I think you should have enough. The nice thing is you dont have really any undercuts (saves on material), so this may be do-able. Do you have any thixo? If not, you will either need some, for subsequent layers after the print layer (It is recommended to have two layers for the print layer, but I only used one on mine, so I know you can get away with it), or you can mix and mix untill the silicone has started to thicken up naturally.

No I don't have any Thixo, Where would I get this?

You said it was complete, but does it still have just primer? If so, Is it Rustoleum? If the answer to both those questions is yes, then you should paint it with some sort of Krylon or other Non Rustoleum paint(You can have regular Rustoleum enamel, I just avoid it just in case). The reason being is, the Rustoleum primer has fish oil in it that has been known to inhibit the curing of silicone.

I don't remember what brand was the primer because the can is at my friend's house but I'll make sure to get some Krylon paint. (Does it have to be Primer/ or it can be anything, as long as its Krylon, Right?)

Anyways, you will need to make keys, they don't need to be gigantic like mine were, just around ice cube sized. So, take that into account when trying to figure out if you have enough material. An ice cube tray can work. You can either leave them as is once they have cured in the ice cube tray, or when you take them out you can cut them to different sized. The keys will keep them locked into the mother mold.

To the Bold part: Do you have any pics?

I would imagine you could get away with three to four layers of silicone. Either 1 or two layers for the print layer. 1 thickened layer (at which point you would add the keys) and one more final layer to smooth everything. PM me if you want to ask more questions. like I said, Im not a professional, but I'll try and help.

-Tony

I think I'm gonna do it exactly as you said. 2 print layers, a thickened layer with the keys and then maybe one or 2 layers to smoothen everything out.

P.S. avoid anything with Latex SIlicone & Latex are arch enemies.
P.S.S. Ben Streeper has a really good video on youtube showing how he molded an ODST helmet (I know they are different, but the principles are the same) This is a really good source of information for the first time molder. Also, I don't believe he used all that much silicone & he has a real good way to make quick mold keys.

I seen the video on youtube before but I can't find it. Do you have a link to it?

My responses are in RED.
Also Thank you for the useful information. :D
 
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My responses are in RED.
Also Thank you for the useful information. :D

Yo, yo, Sorry for the late response, my internet is down (Writing from my babies mommas crib).

Here we go:
1. This is Thixo, By Smooth on, you can get it Reynolds AM.
IMG_20110819_104218.jpg


2. It doesn't matter if its primer or paint. I just wanted metion the Rustoleum issue, so you didn't waste money.

3. Here are my keys:

IMG_20110416_160347.jpg


& This is how I made them:
IMG_20110416_095616.jpg


4.Ben Streepers tuts:
I'll have to find them later, or you can search the forums for it. I don't have time to right now because I need to feed my kids..lol, But I'll see what I can do later and update.

Be good & Good luck!

-Tony
 
Yo, yo, Sorry for the late response, my internet is down (Writing from my babies mommas crib).

Here we go:
1. This is Thixo, By Smooth on, you can get it Reynolds AM.
IMG_20110819_104218.jpg


2. It doesn't matter if its primer or paint. I just wanted metion the Rustoleum issue, so you didn't waste money.

3. Here are my keys:

IMG_20110416_160347.jpg


& This is how I made them:
IMG_20110416_095616.jpg


4.Ben Streepers tuts:
I'll have to find them later, or you can search the forums for it. I don't have time to right now because I need to feed my kids..lol, But I'll see what I can do later and update.

Be good & Good luck!

-Tony

Thanx for the help. :)
I think I found Ben Streepers Tuts:

 
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What type of molds is there? I heard of jacket mold and glove mold. Is there any others? Which one is the best?

WHat my picture shows is the glove mold. Check out my Commando thread for the complet mold. The jacket is what it sits in. Holds the shape of the silicone.
 
Hey guys, I want to mold suff in the future but they do not sell smooth on products in my area, I was wondering if I could use liquid latex instead and if I can what would I use for a mOther mold and what would I cast into it
 
This is my favorite, explains everything nicely. Youtube has several videos regarding molding.


I was wondering if I could use smoothcast320 instead of 300? Also is there a tut on how to cast using fiberglass?
 
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Hey guys, quick couple questions.

I know everyone seems to talk about Smooth-on products and rebound 25, but has anyone thought of using Silicone RTV?

It seems to be a lot cheaper than smooth-on (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=61&) at least from TAP. Has anyone thought of using this stuff?

Also, reading the description it said the viscosity is 60,000 cP. I know some molds require you put them in a vacuum chamber to degass them. At what number cP do you not have to degass the mold mixture?
 
Hey guys, quick couple questions.

I know everyone seems to talk about Smooth-on products and rebound 25, but has anyone thought of using Silicone RTV?

It seems to be a lot cheaper than smooth-on (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=61&) at least from TAP. Has anyone thought of using this stuff?

Also, reading the description it said the viscosity is 60,000 cP. I know some molds require you put them in a vacuum chamber to degass them. At what number cP do you not have to degass the mold mixture?

Hello !

Rebound 25 is a brush-on silicone , which is what you have to use for molding helmets . Pouring a RTV over a entire helmet would cost loads and loads of money and would be seriously non-economic . A RTV rubber is much better for creating block molds of small parts . Hope that answered your question!

Jacob
 
what paper should i use when i mold the helmet

I don't see how those two are related. By the time you mould anything, you will long have reinforced your model. I suggest you read a few more tutorials.

if i was to make a helmet for paintball what material should i use that provide the most resistance

You shouldn't make paintball equipment at all and you won't find much help for that here.
 
I wondering whether i should use a combination of high quality sandpaper and the rotary tool, just sandpaper or just the rotary tool? Any tips for using the rotary tool would be much appreciated :) ?
 
I wondering whether i should use a combination of high quality sandpaper and the rotary tool, just sandpaper or just the rotary tool? Any tips for using the rotary tool would be much appreciated :) ?

Use a rotary tool first , then sand it by hand starting with a high grit and progressing to a fine grit so you get a nice smooth finish . Make sure when you use the rotary tool to Take you time! I can't stress that enough . Take your time and it will turn out awesome! If you start to get frustrated , sit down and take a break . Make sure to plan out how you want it to look and what your doing before you start . Take a look at the updated version of my advice thread !

How to get the most out of your build (V2)



Hope that helped!

-Jacob
 
Use a rotary tool first , then sand it by hand starting with a high grit and progressing to a fine grit so you get a nice smooth finish . Make sure when you use the rotary tool to Take you time! I can't stress that enough . Take your time and it will turn out awesome! If you start to get frustrated , sit down and take a break . Make sure to plan out how you want it to look and what your doing before you start . Take a look at the updated version of my advice thread !




Hope that helped!

-Jacob

That helps alot thanks luckily we still have a rotary tool from when my dad used to need it daily :) Ill check youre thread out too
 
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