I hope this hasn't been answered already, but I went through the first half and couldn't see it. I'm wiring up an M8 I made from EVA foam. I have all the wiring/battery info I need, and can wire it just fine, I'm just wondering if there is a way to wire it so that half the LEDs are constant, and the other half are activated via push-button (ie. trigger). If anyone has tips or suggestions I would be very grateful!
"Help!" for: Electronics
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chitwood1775
Member
If you're talking about using it for muzzle flash that's a bad idea. You don't want to pull the trigger and make law enforcement think it's a real weapon.
Good point, hadn't thought of that. It's alright, though, I miscalculated the voltage anyway and the battery i need to power both the LEDs and the button won't fit very well lol. I'll stick to the standard on/off switch for now. Thanks!
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Agreed about muzzle flash, don't do that.
Wire the LEDs in parallel. Then you can wire each individually with their own resistor to one switch or the other.
Wire the LEDs in parallel. Then you can wire each individually with their own resistor to one switch or the other.
Shadowind
Member
ok, question. I plan on using twenty three 3mm 3.0-3.4v/24mA max/6,000mcd LEDs to light my armor and have a Dynex DC12V 0.18A computer fan to cool it down while I'm wearing it. Due to my previous experiences in messing with small electronics I would really like someone's input on what I need to power this (I had a close call with an exploding resister once, do not want to repeat). I also have 470 Ohm 1/4w resisters for the LEDs.
For the helmet I plan on using four of the same LEDs and a DC5V 0.22A fan. Thoughts?
For the helmet I plan on using four of the same LEDs and a DC5V 0.22A fan. Thoughts?
spn phoenix 92
New Member
I also wouldnt advise on a realistic muzzle flash, but if you use a different color it may be ok. I drew you up a quick diagram of how it can be achived (minus the resistors and crap)
You could also wire the two switches individually, but I prefer this way in case the momentary ever gets bumped/stuck when in storage and lights up the trigger led and drains the battery. With this diagram, when the main leds are off, then the others can't be accidentally powered on. Gotta conserve that energy.
I have a question as well, I'm planning on making a needler for my wife's halo reach suit and I really wanted to try wiring up the trigger to make a pink led repeatedly flash in the muzzle and make the needler sound while the trigger is held with a momentary switch, but I have no idea how to make it flash and play sound. How would I go about doing that?
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Can use a 9V to power that setup (determined by your 470 ohm and fan voltage). Recommend one battery per zone. Helmet, torso, each limb. Pretty hard to max out the battery capacity that way, should get about 2 hours of battery life.
9 volts suck
Check out RadioShack, they sell a sound recorder kit.
Alternately, my favorite approach is a small cheap MP3 player and small powered speaker.
Lastly, add a blinking led kit.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062571
I normally don't recommend muzzle flash, but on alien weapons are ok. Chances are you won't get shot with muzzle flash on a non realistic gun.
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Phoenix, just saw your picture. Wiring the LEDs in series like that with a low resistance is what caused the burnout that shadowind described.
Parrellel wiring uses a few more resistors and wires, but at lower amperages per led. Makes them run cooler and last longer.
Edit;
The drawing below is much better. Runs on 3 AAA and 100 ohm resistors. Batteries lasts many hours, usually all day. Can swap in a 3 AA battery pack instead for even longer battery life.
simple_light_kit by thatdecade, on Flickr
Downside is that that 3AAA needs a less common fan, 5V instead of the common 12V pc fan. I can dig out a link where to buy them if you like.
Edit2:
Just reread the last few posts, its late, I'm an idiot, carry on.
Parrellel wiring uses a few more resistors and wires, but at lower amperages per led. Makes them run cooler and last longer.
Edit;
The drawing below is much better. Runs on 3 AAA and 100 ohm resistors. Batteries lasts many hours, usually all day. Can swap in a 3 AA battery pack instead for even longer battery life.
simple_light_kit by thatdecade, on Flickr
Downside is that that 3AAA needs a less common fan, 5V instead of the common 12V pc fan. I can dig out a link where to buy them if you like.
Edit2:
Just reread the last few posts, its late, I'm an idiot, carry on.
spn phoenix 92
New Member
Phoenix, just saw your picture. Wiring the LEDs in series like that with a low resistance is what caused the burnout that shadowind described.
Parrellel wiring uses a few more resistors and wires, but at lower amperages per led. Makes them run cooler and last longer.
Edit;
The drawing below is much better. Runs on 3 AAA and 100 ohm resistors. Batteries lasts many hours, usually all day. Can swap in a 3 AA battery pack instead for even longer battery life.
simple_light_kit by thatdecade, on Flickr
Ah, gotcha. Thanks for the fix, I don't want to mess anyone up.
What's your recommendation on using an mp3 player to do it?
EDIT: Sorry but I have one more question, if I am planning on lighting each of the 16 needles on the top of the needler with 9 volts, and 16 leds with a forward voltage of dc 3.2 and a forward current of 20 ma, would I be ok wiring them in pairs with a 150 ohm 1/4w resistor on each pair?
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Forward voltage = min battery voltage to turn on
forward current = recommended amperage
Connecting two LEDs paired with a single 150 ohm resistor to a 9V. LED total voltage required would be 3.2*2=6.4V. Then the current is a bit trickier, (9V - 6.4)/150 ohm = 17mA
Results in the LEDs lighting slightly dimmer than usual, but should be fine. A 130 ohm or 100 ohm resistor is also a good choice.
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ok, the mp3 player. Find a cheap one. Here's a $4 one.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Clip-Mp3...TF8&qid=1350579496&sr=1-5&keywords=mp3+player
Then pop it open, and re-wire the play button to be near your fire trigger. Or just place the mp3 player hidden near your tigger button.
Load up the mp3 player with a single track of firing sounds, or several. Maybe some game audio, whatever.
Another $4 for the battery powered speaker.
http://amzn.com/B008SM3LWG
Anyway, I hope you get the idea. Buy cheap mp3 player and battery speaker, then tear apart and insert in your prop.
forward current = recommended amperage
Connecting two LEDs paired with a single 150 ohm resistor to a 9V. LED total voltage required would be 3.2*2=6.4V. Then the current is a bit trickier, (9V - 6.4)/150 ohm = 17mA
Results in the LEDs lighting slightly dimmer than usual, but should be fine. A 130 ohm or 100 ohm resistor is also a good choice.
--------------
ok, the mp3 player. Find a cheap one. Here's a $4 one.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Clip-Mp3...TF8&qid=1350579496&sr=1-5&keywords=mp3+player
Then pop it open, and re-wire the play button to be near your fire trigger. Or just place the mp3 player hidden near your tigger button.
Load up the mp3 player with a single track of firing sounds, or several. Maybe some game audio, whatever.
Another $4 for the battery powered speaker.
http://amzn.com/B008SM3LWG
Anyway, I hope you get the idea. Buy cheap mp3 player and battery speaker, then tear apart and insert in your prop.
Hey guys! I have a MK VI helmet (by ROBOGENESIS) that is almost ready for some LEDs. I went up to radio shack and realized I know absolutely nothing about basic electronics... So I saw a 4 prong LED and a jumbo LED. The problem is, the jumbo LED basically is like... eh.. and elongated nipple. It's just not an appropriate shape. The 4 prong, however, is flat and square, which would be really simple. My question boils down to this: how do I put LEDs in the helmet? I saw one guide that was not well written... If anyone can clear this up for me, I'd be grateful! Thanks. -TMC
spn phoenix 92
New Member
I would use this post from thatdecade on the previous page.
Runs on 3 AAA and 100 ohm resistors. Batteries lasts many hours, usually all day. Can swap in a 3 AA battery pack instead for even longer battery life.
simple_light_kit by thatdecade, on Flickr
herotrooper
New Member
Hey guys. Need some guidance in order to finish my Halloween costume. I made a DeadMau5 helmet (90% complete), but haven't decided how to light up the eyes. Do I make a basic setup like thatdecades post? Or do you think I could save some time and money by adding a switch to those sylvania dot it led lights? (if possible..)
Here is the dot it..
Here is the dot it..
VIzardErebus
Jr Member
I know nothing about electronics... where would i go to learn how to make a electronic counter, led lighting, programming timers, effects, ect. (specifically please.)
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Best guides I know of are on sparkfun.com, has a good community too. Honestly the more advanced effects takes book learning. See if your school offers a programming beginners class from the math department or a electronics beginners class from the tech ed department.
I took both electronics and programming in high school, then continued in college. Programming I picked up right away, but it wasn't until after college that electronic circuit design really made sense.
For the simple stuff, you don't need all that. Find an example or kit, build it. Enjoy.
Edit, some links to beginner guides
http://www.adafruit.com/tutorials
http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials
http://makeprojects.com/c/Electronics
Sure you can tear apart a led lamp light to use in your prop. The single led lamps are a bit easier to repurpose.
Eyes are tricky, have to get the angle just right not to blind yourself.
Skullptura
Member
Have you considered using EL strips? Tiny little led lights on a flexible strip. A few people have put them in the eye sections of armour. Somebody suggested using some diffusers so you dont blind yourself. See what ya think. Im pretty sure they are in this thread somewhere. It's that friggin big though. It might take a while to get through.
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
There is a Search Thread link near the top. Can use the keyword, eyes.
This is a good example of EL wire around the eyes.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30312-Finished-Fallout-New-Vegas-Suit?p=497911#post497911
Watch the video to see the brightness.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30312-Finished-Fallout-New-Vegas-Suit?p=502945#post502945
This is a good example of EL wire around the eyes.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30312-Finished-Fallout-New-Vegas-Suit?p=497911#post497911
Watch the video to see the brightness.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/30312-Finished-Fallout-New-Vegas-Suit?p=502945#post502945
herotrooper
New Member
Hey guys.
Sorry about posting again, but I have decided on LEDs for the eyes. I've done a basic setup of 2 LEDs, a switch, and a battery. I have drawn up a diagram with 8 LEDs, a 9V and a 12V fan, but don't know how to wire it up. According to your LED resister guide, using a 9V would require a 500ohm resister. Is that for each LED, or in the wiring somewhere? Feel free to help fill in the gaps. Thanks!
Here it is:
Sorry about posting again, but I have decided on LEDs for the eyes. I've done a basic setup of 2 LEDs, a switch, and a battery. I have drawn up a diagram with 8 LEDs, a 9V and a 12V fan, but don't know how to wire it up. According to your LED resister guide, using a 9V would require a 500ohm resister. Is that for each LED, or in the wiring somewhere? Feel free to help fill in the gaps. Thanks!
Here it is:
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Try this, hope it makes sense. The long wire from the LED goes to the red wire from the battery clip. One 500 ohm resistor per LED.
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