BlueFreeze128
Member
Hey, i just wanted to ask about rotary tools. what kind should i get if i got one? i'm trying to do some research on it but there are so many kinds i couldn't understand it. I was hoping someone on here could help. Thanks!
"Help!" for: Misc...
- Thread starter 23Magnum
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Are you asking about the rotory tools themselves, or the attachments? For the most part a tool is a tool, but it's best to look for one with a variable speed option rather than just a simple on/off switch, as some work is better done with high speed, and some is best done with low speed.
As for attachments/bits, one good item to have is a flex/snake attachment, as this basically transfers the movement from the bulky (and in some cases unwieldy) rotary tool to a much smaller, almost a "stylus" type tool. Some good bits to have are engraving bits, carbide/cutting bits, and high quality cut-off wheels (the little film canister looking things with like half a dozen paper-thin discs, from my experience, are not worth the trouble. I've broken more of them than I've had projects in need of cutting). Drill bits (typically offered in much smaller sizes than with a standard drill) can also be quite useful for creating holes for wiring, venting, and lighting, as well as smaller and less conspicuous screw holes. Grinding wheels are also useful for deburring fiberglass builds and for some foam work as well. Foam especially is where the variable speed will come in handy, as you are going to want to use a low speed setting to decrease friction (and the very prevalent possibility of melting the foam).
That would be my suggested supply list, anyway. Probably could get a more detailed list from more experienced builders.
As for attachments/bits, one good item to have is a flex/snake attachment, as this basically transfers the movement from the bulky (and in some cases unwieldy) rotary tool to a much smaller, almost a "stylus" type tool. Some good bits to have are engraving bits, carbide/cutting bits, and high quality cut-off wheels (the little film canister looking things with like half a dozen paper-thin discs, from my experience, are not worth the trouble. I've broken more of them than I've had projects in need of cutting). Drill bits (typically offered in much smaller sizes than with a standard drill) can also be quite useful for creating holes for wiring, venting, and lighting, as well as smaller and less conspicuous screw holes. Grinding wheels are also useful for deburring fiberglass builds and for some foam work as well. Foam especially is where the variable speed will come in handy, as you are going to want to use a low speed setting to decrease friction (and the very prevalent possibility of melting the foam).
That would be my suggested supply list, anyway. Probably could get a more detailed list from more experienced builders.
BlueFreeze128
Member
thank you Zaff! I didn't really know anything about dremels really. I'm just working on my noble 6 helmet right now and i'm getting frustrated with the bondoing and sanding and doing that process repeatedly and not getting the result that i want. I mean I finally got my helmet about where i need it to be with the sanding part but my hands are very raw and damaged from the sanding. is there one that is good for sanding?
There are sanding "drum" attachments, basically a small (about half an inch) tall tube of sandpaper. Thing is, the barrel can get worn out fast, and using a power tool for sanding can also take away the material fast...and if you're not careful you'll take off a lot more than you intended to. Plus being that the only available sanding bits are rather small, it can still take a long time to smooth an entire piece. I'd recommend picking up some sanding sponges. They're a lot easier on the hands, and they conform to the shape of a piece while still applying fairly even pressure, so you won't be making high spots. Sanding sponges also allow for wet sanding, which can get you an even smoother finish. Just remember that with sanding sponges you'll want to clean them every now and then, otherwise they don't work as well as they should (think chalk eraser that hasn't been clapped in a long time).
The sanding/bondo stage is one of the most tedious parts of the build, sometimes even more so than all the cutting, folding, and gluing of the pep work. You build it up, you sand it down, then you might find you have to build it back up again, and sand it back down, sometimes even two or three times back and forth to get things right. But every bit of work put in at that stage is worth it, because every minor imperfection left behind will be magnified once you start throwing paint at it. Which is another reason why I'd recommend doing it by hand than using a power tool. You have a lot more control, and it's far less work to slowly sand something down than to grind off too much, have to put more on, and then grind it down again and hope to get it right that time. Plus, sanding bits really only come in one grit type, and it's a low (coarse) grit, which leaves a rougher finish. Sandpaper and sanding sponges come in a variety of grits, and usually higher (finer) grit. For the best results, you'll want to start with a lower grit (60-100) just to shave off the obvious and more heavily built-up rough spots, then gradually work your way up to progressively higher grit numbers to make the finished surface as smooth as possible. You probably wouldn't need to go all the way up to like a 1000 grit, put you'll want to go up to at least 200-250, maybe even up to 300 or 400 if you really want to put the time in. You don't want it to be too ridiculously smooth because then paint and primer won't adhere as well.
Which brings us to the next step. I'd advise laying down 2-3 light coats of primer (emphasis on "light" because you want to avoid drips and runs), then another 2-3 light coats of your base paint, then again with any secondary/accent color you'll be putting on. Finally, top it off with another 4-7 light coats of clear. The reason I suggest so many coats with the clear is this is when you can go back in with a 400+ grit, preferably wet sanding, and smooth out the clear (which will take off a few of those layers, hence the high number). This will help reduce some of that "orange peel" effect for a more clear reflection. If you really want to go nuts you could even go at it with a microfiber buffer and some fine buffing compound to really polish it up nice.
And while on the topic of painting, be sure to look specifically for masking tape marked "painter's tape." Regular masking tape will let the paint bleed through, won't leave as crisp an edge, and is more likely to peel up the paint below it. If you want to do any stripes, graphics, or anything with more than just the base color, you'll want painter's tape. And when you're pulling it off after the paint dries, once you get an end peeled loose, pull it slowly and smoothly either at a straight 90 degree angle, or angle it back on itself a bit. That will help "cut" the paint for a more crisp line. If you want the edge to look rough, then go ahead and pull it up any way you want. Maybe even pull it up before the paint has fully dried. Oh, and don't worry about covering the entire piece in tape if the area you want to work on will be small. Just mask around it with a border of tape, and then tape down newspaper or other scrap material (so long as it's heavy enough to not bleed through) overlapping the original tape border so that you have as little tape actually touching the piece you're working on (you're basically taping the newspaper to the tape border).
The sanding/bondo stage is one of the most tedious parts of the build, sometimes even more so than all the cutting, folding, and gluing of the pep work. You build it up, you sand it down, then you might find you have to build it back up again, and sand it back down, sometimes even two or three times back and forth to get things right. But every bit of work put in at that stage is worth it, because every minor imperfection left behind will be magnified once you start throwing paint at it. Which is another reason why I'd recommend doing it by hand than using a power tool. You have a lot more control, and it's far less work to slowly sand something down than to grind off too much, have to put more on, and then grind it down again and hope to get it right that time. Plus, sanding bits really only come in one grit type, and it's a low (coarse) grit, which leaves a rougher finish. Sandpaper and sanding sponges come in a variety of grits, and usually higher (finer) grit. For the best results, you'll want to start with a lower grit (60-100) just to shave off the obvious and more heavily built-up rough spots, then gradually work your way up to progressively higher grit numbers to make the finished surface as smooth as possible. You probably wouldn't need to go all the way up to like a 1000 grit, put you'll want to go up to at least 200-250, maybe even up to 300 or 400 if you really want to put the time in. You don't want it to be too ridiculously smooth because then paint and primer won't adhere as well.
Which brings us to the next step. I'd advise laying down 2-3 light coats of primer (emphasis on "light" because you want to avoid drips and runs), then another 2-3 light coats of your base paint, then again with any secondary/accent color you'll be putting on. Finally, top it off with another 4-7 light coats of clear. The reason I suggest so many coats with the clear is this is when you can go back in with a 400+ grit, preferably wet sanding, and smooth out the clear (which will take off a few of those layers, hence the high number). This will help reduce some of that "orange peel" effect for a more clear reflection. If you really want to go nuts you could even go at it with a microfiber buffer and some fine buffing compound to really polish it up nice.
And while on the topic of painting, be sure to look specifically for masking tape marked "painter's tape." Regular masking tape will let the paint bleed through, won't leave as crisp an edge, and is more likely to peel up the paint below it. If you want to do any stripes, graphics, or anything with more than just the base color, you'll want painter's tape. And when you're pulling it off after the paint dries, once you get an end peeled loose, pull it slowly and smoothly either at a straight 90 degree angle, or angle it back on itself a bit. That will help "cut" the paint for a more crisp line. If you want the edge to look rough, then go ahead and pull it up any way you want. Maybe even pull it up before the paint has fully dried. Oh, and don't worry about covering the entire piece in tape if the area you want to work on will be small. Just mask around it with a border of tape, and then tape down newspaper or other scrap material (so long as it's heavy enough to not bleed through) overlapping the original tape border so that you have as little tape actually touching the piece you're working on (you're basically taping the newspaper to the tape border).
BlueFreeze128
Member
Thanks for all your help! Actually, would it be okay if I PM you in case I have any more questions? You can say no lol you've already helped out so much
James Biotech
New Member
I am wanting to make a halo 4 recruit costume but I don't know what to use as the under clothing that does not cost a lot of money?
I found a cheap wetsuit on ebay, I'm going to replace the parts covered with the hard suit with a more breathable material so I don't get too warm!
I'm in the UK but here's the link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331603963...49&var=540763002776&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
CyberRaider
New Member
Hi. I just started working on a Halo 4 Venator. I couldn't find a way to re-size the Venator pepakura armor here, at least without buying Designer so I could keep a low budget. I am thankful for the tutorials posted here on how to use it, but they don't cover Viewer since Viewer is a limited version of Pepakura. That's when I googled and did some research and happened upon Stony Props and the Venator files one of the members shared on their Facebook. When I got curious about Stony Props, I typed in the address to their "old" site (I suppose) that was written on one of their files to learn more about them. I thought maybe they were related to 405th since their facebook page is littered with Halo cosplay aromor and pics. When I opened the site, the only thing I was greeted with was a banner that read:
"Stony Props has malicious members: Stony Props goes out of their way to attack members of the cosplay community. Their only focus is to make money. They have no care for the cosplay community and purposely steals the focus off of other cosplayers simply so they can make money. Cosplay is meant for the fun and enjoyment of dressing up as your favorite character. Do NOT support Stony Props."
With this in my mind, I have to ask the older members on this site: Who are Stony Props, and are they a "controversial" cosplay group? If they are, I would like to steer clear from them and their files. I'm asking this because I'd rather not use a file from a controversial group and stop what I am doing. I've tried researching more about them and have only found their new site, but it doesn't reassure me of the answers I was looking for.
I'm also posting this question here since the other FAQ and Q&A threads don't seem to fit this kind of question.
"Stony Props has malicious members: Stony Props goes out of their way to attack members of the cosplay community. Their only focus is to make money. They have no care for the cosplay community and purposely steals the focus off of other cosplayers simply so they can make money. Cosplay is meant for the fun and enjoyment of dressing up as your favorite character. Do NOT support Stony Props."
With this in my mind, I have to ask the older members on this site: Who are Stony Props, and are they a "controversial" cosplay group? If they are, I would like to steer clear from them and their files. I'm asking this because I'd rather not use a file from a controversial group and stop what I am doing. I've tried researching more about them and have only found their new site, but it doesn't reassure me of the answers I was looking for.
I'm also posting this question here since the other FAQ and Q&A threads don't seem to fit this kind of question.
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James Biotech
New Member
Thank you so much Your awesome
James Biotech
New Member
I am going to be making a halo 4 ODST foam costume but I don't know how to size it. Can someone help me?
XStringbreakeRX
New Member
Um, I wasn't really sure where to put this, so the Misc. section seemed like a good place. I'm interested in doing a Fotus armor cosplay. Only problem is I've never cosplayed before and I don't know a damn thing of what I need, or how to do anything. So I was wondering if anyone could possibly help? Any and all help will be much appreciated. Thank you so very much!
FlyinPhil
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the site! My only suggestion is to read, read, and then read some more. There is a TON of information on this forum, and it will definitely help you out in building a suit! We get this question on a daily basis haha. It's simply a matter of doing a little research and reading through other members' build threads that will get you on the right track.
XStringbreakeRX
New Member
Awesome. Thanks!
The BorosBoss
Jr Member
If you make it just the right size, it will hug your leg and sit atop the boots you make. If it's too loose, you might make a few cuts and remove some material, or lock it to your undersuit with velcro. I've only made one set, and they were freehand and fairly loose, but it worked fairly well, needing the occasional adjustment-- but in my experience most armor does. Looked a bit like so:
you can see that there's some space but it's fairly tight on the sides and rests on top of the boots so they don't move a whole lot. Hope this helped.
you can see that there's some space but it's fairly tight on the sides and rests on top of the boots so they don't move a whole lot. Hope this helped.
- Member DIN
- S922
This may be a stupid question for all you veterans out there. I'm working on an ODST build out of pepakura right now and need some advice on hardening in the winter. Over the weekend, I completed pep work on both shoulders and on of the hip plates. I'm worried about these pieces sitting as they are until spring. At the same time, today it's only 17 degrees F for the high, which is way to cold to get out there a resin/fiberglass. I've looked some into the wood glue, fiberglass method, but am not sure about it. Anyone out there with some advice/tips on how to help my pieces last until spring with minimal warping?
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
Epoxy resin is odorless (but a respirator is still recommended) and could be used indoors. Otherwise, you can box them up in a dry place until the weather warms up (maybe even add a silica gel pack in the box to absorb moisture). If the models include adequate structural supports then they shouldn't warp. If not, crumple up some scrap paper to place inside them for support.
Sentri
Active Member
I've returned after quite sometime of being inactive. I plan on making a set of armor at some point, but I'm starting with a smaller project first.
I want to make the Widowmaker Shotgun from Deus Ex (but the TF2 Engineer Variant). My question is, has anyone ever used drywall spackle on foam core board? I want to blend the corners. I planned on using tape and placing the spackle over the tape to blend the seams. I will be painting the whole thing, most likely spray paint.
I'm trying to cut the cost on materials as I own spackle, and foam core board already. Hoping that it will work.
I want to make the Widowmaker Shotgun from Deus Ex (but the TF2 Engineer Variant). My question is, has anyone ever used drywall spackle on foam core board? I want to blend the corners. I planned on using tape and placing the spackle over the tape to blend the seams. I will be painting the whole thing, most likely spray paint.
I'm trying to cut the cost on materials as I own spackle, and foam core board already. Hoping that it will work.
- Member DIN
- S128
Dirtdives is the only currently active member I know that works with foam board. He may have an answer for you. Or at least check out his threads, he's doing some FB builds right now.
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