Aliens M41a Pulse Rifle (from a Nerf Stampede!)

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Ok Ive hit the point of no return! As we have had more rain i figured id start on trimming (Hacking) the Stampede.

The first thing i did was open it and marvel at all the moving bits!
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Then i started cutting! Muahahaha... Now i have to finish this project...
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And vola! The new and improved (Cut those sideburns!) Stampede! I like it :) Ill have to find a LiPo battery to run it now as the 6xD batteries really added space and weight.
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On another note ive remade the following peices as the rondo wrecked the bits. So much warpage its not funny. So these have been resined then fiberglassed. Even then there is a small amount of warping but nothing i cant fix later.
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This on the other hand was me trying to fix the massive amounts of warping with fiberglass. Needless to say it didnt work.
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Either way im happy as the fiberglass is much more durable. I may still coat a little rondo on the inside to smooth over the sharp bits.


Cheers!
 

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what ever you do, don't use a lypo with plastic. those batteries have been kown to melt full metal airsoft internals, and nerf internals are no exeption.
 
I thought that the wiring is supposed to be able to be used with lypo batteries, as well as the heat generated.

I use NiCad batteries in my M14A1 VN Echo1 airsoft gun and they make some really powerful heat waves in the gun body
 
Agreed. Im pretty certain its all about the current drawn which can cause problems like heat (and the melty melty). If you aare drawing hughe amounts of juice from an incorrect spec LiPo it will definatly heat up! If its spec is for fast drain (Large ampage) then im sure there shouldnt be a problem.


Cheers.
 
Agreed. Im pretty certain its all about the current drawn which can cause problems like heat (and the melty melty). If you aare drawing hughe amounts of juice from an incorrect spec LiPo it will definatly heat up! If its spec is for fast drain (Large ampage) then im sure there shouldnt be a problem.


Cheers.

I agree with this as there should be the the correct wiring and everything should be capatible with each other.

And even then when you make or consume energy, you ARE going to get some form of noticible feedback or indication of what's going on in the battery.

Also good wiring or not you ARE going to get the heat, just the correct form of heat being produced won't do anything dangerous; the incorrect way is HAZARDOUS at the very least!



Nicad with NiCad wiring
Lipoly to Lipoly wiring

NOT!!!!!!!> Lipoly to NiCad wiring OR NiCad to Lipoly wiring

this means that my M14 Nicad system should only use Nicad batteries as it is built for use with guess what guys-NICAD BATTERIES!!!
 
Anyway once im up to the powering it up bit ill do my research :) I have a few low spec LiPo that i can test.

I have one day before my Christmas busy period starts so i will see what i can do.
 
Anyway once im up to the powering it up bit ill do my research :) I have a few low spec LiPo that i can test.

I have one day before my Christmas busy period starts so i will see what i can do.

would love to see some pics of the wiring when you get it done!

I also am liking the overall progress!
 
Well im back from the break and here is a small update. Small due to lots of wet weather.

I started cutting/trimming the shroud to fit over the nerf gun and the clip. The clip parts worked well but i had to be brutal with where i was cutting to allow the clip to fit up through the lot of it. Ill cover that later when its all firm and settled.

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When trimming the join on the shroud i realised there was no glass holding it together so this was fixed. It should be nice and strong now and currently looks a bit messy.
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Slowly slowly getting there.
 

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Ok just a small update this time as ive been super busy with getting our Hackerspace going. We now have a physical site! WOO! :D

Ahem, now then i had an hour to start work on the ammo counter bits: A Make Hack Void created Arduino clone (*grin*), a few resistors, two microswitches and 2 seven segment displays:

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Ive decided to not use an IR beam to trigger the count as there are too many ways this is bad and could fail, instead im going to use a physical switch in the body of the gun. Hopefully i can get a bit of space near where the 'bolt' drives forward. That way when its out of Nerf darts it can still count down :D

Also here is the stand alone Somo-14d audio module:

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Cheers.
 

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You should be careful with the switch in the gun method. The whole plunger assembly, tube and all, slams forward at a very fast rate.
 
Wow, exellent work! i have the M41A1 conversion to the M1A1 Thompson airsoft gun. This is awesome. hope it comes out well. I might have to go pick up a stampede now!
 
You should be careful with the switch in the gun method. The whole plunger assembly, tube and all, slams forward at a very fast rate.

Totally. At this stage there are no hard of fast ways im going to do it but the are about 3 decent avenues to follow. Microswitch or IR/hall effect sensor on the bolt, or an IR beam on the barrel, which all have pros and cons.

Have you modded a Stampede before? I saw your post about the battery voltage etc. My plan will be to up the votage to 12v and to find a stronger spring (Not too worried about this yet) as this is the standard upgrade for a Stampede. Stronger spring for more range slows down the fire speed, which is countered with upping the voltage (12v or there abouts).
 
I love it when people make functional weapon props :D By the way, does the Nerf Stampede have the same dart loading mechanism as the normal clip dart guns? Basically, im trying to make a semi-automatic pneumatic nerf DMR. Ive worked out the power aspect by making a 3 way DCV, but I'm sill having trouble with the loading mechanism. Im trying to actuate the loader pneumatically, with the air valve, but the slide loading mechanism of your standard nerf gun probably won't handle the high-speed actuation. As such, I want to see if they did anything to help it load faster.
Thanks in advance and great job.
-Gryphon
 
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