The Ultimate Pepakura FAQ

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Very cool, good luck on it!

Don't forget latex or nitrile gloves, the resin itches a ton if you get it on your skin, I make sure to unroll the glove all the way since the brand I buy goes a couple inches up the arm on top of covering your hands.
 
Alright, I know this is a foam question, but I have no where else to ask: How would I make one of my files into a foam template file?

Like, for example, a Reach bicep?
 
I apologize if this is not the correct thread to post in but, to me it seemed fit. I have a rather odd question. Ive have yet to even begin the resin process of my helmet and i was wondering, what the viscosity of fiberglass resin would be?

if you could compare it to something what would it be like? (cooking oil, shampoo, etc.)

Any and all answers will be extremely helpful, and if there is a better thread somewhere that i may ask this question please direct me. I am very bad at navigating through forums :/

thanks!
 
I apologize if this is not the correct thread to post in but, to me it seemed fit. I have a rather odd question. Ive have yet to even begin the resin process of my helmet and i was wondering, what the viscosity of fiberglass resin would be?

if you could compare it to something what would it be like? (cooking oil, shampoo, etc.)

Any and all answers will be extremely helpful, and if there is a better thread somewhere that i may ask this question please direct me. I am very bad at navigating through forums :/

thanks!

Resin should be about the consistency of warm pancake syrup when applying it.

In the future, take a look in the NOOB forum, there are a number of Help! series threads. You could have posted this question in this thread...

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/26849-quot-Help!-quot-for-Fiberglassing-Resin-amp-Bondo
 
The resin I use does not change in consistency except when it hardens...

If it's rock solid in the can (this has happened to me) then you got a bad can, other than that it will always be the same consistency, from pour to catalyst addition to painting it on. As Carpathia said, pancake syrup, it will start to be like lumpy hair gel when it is about to harden, though, but if you haven't painted it on by that time, the rest of the batch still in the cup is useless at that point anyways, but what is already painted on will be fine.

Some fiberglass resins will have an indicator tint added to help you though, the one I buy pours blue, and when the catalyst is fully mixed it changes to amber.
 
No clue if this is the right thread to be posting in, but I must ask about the front recon attachment I've seen in a few builds PIC

Is there a file for this?
 
No clue if this is the right thread to be posting in, but I must ask about the front recon attachment I've seen in a few builds PIC

Is there a file for this?

L3X BLU3R1V3R has it in his 3D files thread, found HERE. I believe it's even the same file as the one in the picture you've linked.
 
hi Im using a mack and tried the JPG file link and it did not work. I kinda need those cuz I cant run pepkura. do you know where i can find them?
 
So when i went to home depot yesterday to get bondo and the like for strengthening my model I ended up buying the body filler is this ok to use or do i have to buy fiberglassing resin instead. If i dont have to i would prefer not to.
 
Here is a good question, from a noob; Why can't I open the files in the Pepakura designer, but I can open them in the Pepakura viewer? thanks.

It says "Cannot open file of specified type"
 
Is the file a custom made one? Is it unfolded already? Is your pep designer up to date? Can you put the file up for me to try?
 
I've also noticed that some files are locked by the creator and require a pass word or something because they don't want you messing with their work.
 
Is the file a custom made one? Is it unfolded already? Is your pep designer up to date? Can you put the file up for me to try?

thanks for the reply. I finally figured it out. I watched a tut on youtube, I saved the file to my start up menu then dragged it over the designer and it opened the first try.
 
I've also noticed that some files are locked by the creator and require a pass word or something because they don't want you messing with their work.

The file is unfolded already, I'm just not computer savvy. It wouldn't let me open the file thru the designer, but once I saved the file to my start up menu, and dragged it over the program, it opened up and now I'm ready to reread all the scaling tuts. Hopefully Ill have a WIP to post soon.
 
Hi, Currently I'm using a heavy posterboard type of paper (shiny and flexible, pretty strong though), but I read that most people use cardstock to print their pepakura files. Is there a big difference between them? I can only imagine that posterboard paper will not absorb as much resin/rondo as cardstock, since its fibers are less accessible. That's not a bad thing, right?
 
Hi, Currently I'm using a heavy posterboard type of paper (shiny and flexible, pretty strong though), but I read that most people use cardstock to print their pepakura files. Is there a big difference between them? I can only imagine that posterboard paper will not absorb as much resin/rondo as cardstock, since its fibers are less accessible. That's not a bad thing, right?

Poster board in the USA is a couple of mm thick and not practical for folding. Are you talking about the same thing. Cardstock is thick, but can still be saturated with resin--that is a good thing. The absorption and binding with the fiber is where the strength comes from. The trouble with pepakura is that it assumes your paper is infinitely thin. The thicker material that you use, the more errors that you induce into the folding. This generally isn't a problem unless you try to use really thick material. The original pepakura material isn't really intended as a significant contributor to the strength of the finished part. The pep guides the shape, but the fiberglass resin, bondo, rondo, etc are 90 percent of the finished product. You just need a paper that's strong enough not to warp during the initial resining.

Redshirt
 
Poster board in the USA is a couple of mm thick and not practical for folding. Are you talking about the same thing. Cardstock is thick, but can still be saturated with resin--that is a good thing. The absorption and binding with the fiber is where the strength comes from. The trouble with pepakura is that it assumes your paper is infinitely thin. The thicker material that you use, the more errors that you induce into the folding. This generally isn't a problem unless you try to use really thick material. The original pepakura material isn't really intended as a significant contributor to the strength of the finished part. The pep guides the shape, but the fiberglass resin, bondo, rondo, etc are 90 percent of the finished product. You just need a paper that's strong enough not to warp during the initial resining.

Redshirt

I imagine your talking about a weak type of posterboard, in which case I agree that it is not a good paper to pep with. But, as I have a friend who works at a paper company who gets me free poster board paper, I was able to get a very thick one (same thickness as cardstock) and the folding has been a lot of fun. The resin and rondo were no problem on my last project either, the bodyfiller was also holding on to it very well. The only thing I really needed to look out for was that I had to put like 1-4 extremely thin layers of resin on the outside, since it does not absorb very quickly. The resin first "lays on it" for a while, but eventually it gets in and secures the construction without deforming it. So I guess I'd still give it a go, I'm a student so saving money from free paper is a good thing for me.
 
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