Simple tips for noobs

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marshon

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I don't know if you guys think this is a good idea or not, but I thought a thread on all those tips and 'tricks of the trade' might come in handy for noobs.
I don't mean a full tutorial or anything like that, I just meant simple little things that make life easier / quicker / smarter?
I'll start off with one and see what you think. I'll add more as they come to mind (although I've probably forgotten LOADS of stuff)

Please add your own to this thread, but remember that a picture paints a thousand words so try and show a demo pic if you can.

Tip #1 If you use any kind of glue in a tube always store it upright with the cap at the the top. This allows the glue to settle at the bottom of the tube and the air to rise to the top. This means that it won't all squirt out all over the place when you open it!
Simples!

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Tip #2 I find that if you let your glue set a bit in a smaller open container, like a bottle cap, the glue gets tackier the longer it ages.

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Tip #3 It's easier to glue with Elmer's glue if you use a tooth pick to evenly spread a small amount onto a tab. This will also decrease warpage!

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Tip #4 The difference between a low temp hot glue gun and a high temp hot glue gun can often be whether or not you get burn blisters on your fingers.

Very painfully learned that one.
 
Tip #5 I helps a lot to have something in the background for you to listen to when in the pep stage of armor building, like a television or a playlist. I visit http://www.pandora.com and create a playlist there to listen when I'm pepping a piece, and try to stray from a television since it can be distracting.

Tip #6 If you're getting discouraged with how long it takes to make your build, take a break and visit other member's builds. It'll be a great motivator!
 
Tip #7 - Poor mans cutting ruler. If you cut your PEPs out using an X-Acto or scalpel and a steel edge, there can be a tendency for the edge to slip. Usually part way through a long cut which is very annoying.

You can get around this by using a cutting ruler. These have a machined slot in the back with a foam insert. As you press down on the ruler it grips more and more. However these are generally expensive and made of aluminium.

You can get a good result using an old steel ruler by fixing a strip of thin 'Foamies' to the back with double sided tape. I used the thinnest foamies I could find for mine.

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THANK YOU! I saw those in your tutorial but couldn't find any at the local (and less local -_-) craft stores.
Now Im gonna run with Tombskull's tangent
Tip #9 Buddy system! I did the entire base for my bro's SMG in one night (props to Marshon for tutorial) since my little bro was helping me out. That would have been days otherwise. A buddy helps you keep moving, is great for fetching snacks (xD), and helps keep boredom away.
 
Tip #10: When resining larger pieces make sure to work in sections and give each section time to dry before applying the next section.

Here you can see the definite break between two sections of resin.
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The texture and drips come from not waiting for the first section to dry. The new wet section will cause the first to seperate from the paper when you overlap the two sections. It creates an ugly section with lots of little particles instead of a nice smooth surface.
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This is an example of two sections properly applied. The first area was applied and all the runs and edges were smoothed (or feathered for the technical term) out and allowed to dry. Then the area was applied with very little overlap.
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Tip 11: When you resin pieces make sure to swish and mix the brush around your cup or tub of resin each time you dip your brush in. It helps to prevent the resin hardening in the cup and causing little hard globules to form.
 
Tip 12: if you want to save on resin, dont use the fibreglass like if you were to use it on a car. put a layer down straight into the helmet, then put in a dry piece, then brush over the fibreglass once its in. soaking the fibreglass with halo armor is useless, as no ones going to see the fibers under the padding when youre done.
 
Tip 13: Go over the fold lines with a pen and ruler pressing down hard. Makes it 100x easier to fold them than doing it freehand (as i did my first few builds before i learned this method) If your pep is coloured already as some are, then use a pen that has run out of ink and go over each fold line pressing down hard with a ruler against each fold line (i use a metal ruler) If the pep is just white then i find it easier to use two different coloured pens, red for mountain folds and blue for valley folds. Makes it alot easier to work with. Dont worry about 'how much/how far' to fold the lines, once you start glueing the pieces together the angles sort themselves out
 
Tip 14: this is for the pep stage. I found trying to glue the whole piece in at once never works well. What I do is glue one or two tabs in place, then go work on the mirrored piece on the opposite side. By switching back and forth between mirroring pieces it gives it time for the glue to set and not slip out of place when you have a pice that bends or curves
 
Tip 15: Storing your respirator cartridges in a Ziploc (seal-able plastic bag) when not in use will extend their lifespan, as they won't be passively filtering the air.
Tip 16: Plumbers putty (or blu-tac) helps prevent indents/negative details from being filled in during the bondo stage, foam cut to size and wedged in does too.
Tip 17: If you need things to stir resin & bondo, a pack of wood shims are often cheaper than paying for stirring sticks, and they work just as well.
Tip 18: In the pepakura stage, making a low-def model before making a high-def model can help you quickly dial in the scaling/sizing. It takes a fraction of the time and effort to find out if you made it too big/small. Plus, these lowdef models can be used for trying new techniques on, without fear of ruining a good model.
 
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