Props Spartan Laser Metal & Fiberglass Airsoft Prop (Fully Functioning Electronic Replica)
- Thread starter Redshirt
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Rysjin7717
New Member
Hey red, thanx yeah th' old site sucked really bad I got tired of lack of functionality of threads:angry, I'm glad it's back to th' old site th' 405th is back!!!:cool
- Member DIN
- S980
While work on the fiberglass continues, I've completed some more work on the fiberglass, but I've also done some clean up on the side stabilizers to get them ready for the final detailing push.
The epoxied version is so much cleaner than the welded versions. Time will tell if these will be strong enough.
Nice clean fit
Here's about the only good view with the attachment points top and bottom. These stabilizers have to be fitted to the lower receiver and lift mechanism after the lift mechanism and outer barrel are bolted on. I reassembled the front half the other night to test the fit. The whole job took almost 45 minutes! All told, that part took 25 screws and didn't include bolting together the trigger assembly, fore grip, or hooking up the upper receiver to the lower receiver. Clearly the finished project will be so complex that there won't be much service I'll be able to do in the field.
Redshirt
The epoxied version is so much cleaner than the welded versions. Time will tell if these will be strong enough.
Nice clean fit
Here's about the only good view with the attachment points top and bottom. These stabilizers have to be fitted to the lower receiver and lift mechanism after the lift mechanism and outer barrel are bolted on. I reassembled the front half the other night to test the fit. The whole job took almost 45 minutes! All told, that part took 25 screws and didn't include bolting together the trigger assembly, fore grip, or hooking up the upper receiver to the lower receiver. Clearly the finished project will be so complex that there won't be much service I'll be able to do in the field.
Redshirt
Rysjin7717
New Member
Nice work Red, hopefully th' epoxy is strong enough ta hold those stabilizers together for along time. keep up th' great work.:coolWhile work on the fiberglass continues, I've completed some more work on the fiberglass, but I've also done some clean up on the side stabilizers to get them ready for the final detailing push.
The epoxied version is so much cleaner than the welded versions. Time will tell if these will be strong enough.
Nice clean fit
Here's about the only good view with the attachment points top and bottom. These stabilizers have to be fitted to the lower receiver and lift mechanism after the lift mechanism and outer barrel are bolted on. I reassembled the front half the other night to test the fit. The whole job took almost 45 minutes! All told, that part took 25 screws and didn't include bolting together the trigger assembly, fore grip, or hooking up the upper receiver to the lower receiver. Clearly the finished project will be so complex that there won't be much service I'll be able to do in the field.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Thanks. Nope! The epoxy failed, but I've worked out some better internal bracing to help. Getting there.
OK, long time no update. I've been fighting some other projects again. So here's the question, who can identify these parts and the specific project they belong to?
Parts coming out of the Nickel plating solution.
Nice and shiny!
My skills with the nickel plating kit improve with each batch of parts. What are they from?
Here's the assembly they came from. What is it and what's my project?
The Splaser did get some attention though. With the front shroud aligned and forced into symmetry via filling and grinding, I started the finer work of closing small gaps.
Major blemishes filled. Wet sanding to follow.
Here it is closed. See how tight the gaps have become, especially at the back where they were once so hideous.
Here is the other side. This side wasn't as bad to start with as I used the left side as the baseline for alignment.
Zero gap achieved. After the Bondo set slightly but was still soft, I ran a razor knife along the seam to get the perfect split between components.
Notice the upper stabilizer has failed. More work has put that right--I think.
Till next time.
Redshirt
Rysjin7717
New Member
Okay Red, as far as those parts go i think that they're for your BSA what parts exactly idk. too bad th' epoxy didn't hold however I am inspired by your ingenuity, resourcefulness and inventiveness and skills. Also glad those ugly gaps are gone it just looks better and better brah keep up th' great work. :coolThanks. Nope! The epoxy failed, but I've worked out some better internal bracing to help. Getting there.
OK, long time no update. I've been fighting some other projects again. So here's the question, who can identify these parts and the specific project they belong to?
Parts coming out of the Nickel plating solution.
Nice and shiny!
My skills with the nickel plating kit improve with each batch of parts. What are they from?
Here's the assembly they came from. What is it and what's my project?
The Splaser did get some attention though. With the front shroud aligned and forced into symmetry via filling and grinding, I started the finer work of closing small gaps.
Major blemishes filled. Wet sanding to follow.
Here it is closed. See how tight the gaps have become, especially at the back where they were once so hideous.
Here is the other side. This side wasn't as bad to start with as I used the left side as the baseline for alignment.
Zero gap achieved. After the Bondo set slightly but was still soft, I ran a razor knife along the seam to get the perfect split between components.
Notice the upper stabilizer has failed. More work has put that right--I think.
Till next time.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Thank you. Nope, not the BSA. Though the BSA finally got put back together again after popping an oil hose and making an epic one-vehicle environmental disaster.
Redshirt
Rysjin7717
New Member
well it is a motor of some sort idk what i'll have ta do some diggin' . :cool
Spartan 213
Jr Member
To me this looks like a carburetor/choke assembly to some sort of motor(no sh*t eh?), for the pieces you plated the little springs and the screws with the flat headed slot look like they would go together in some sort of throttle assembly to adjust it but for it as a whole I'm at a lost.
On the build topic I too like the look without the gaps and seeing your work so far this is gonna be awesome.
On a side note(not sure if this was asked yet) What are you thinking for the colour scheme traditional or something...new?
-Spartan 213
- Member DIN
- S980
To me this looks like a carburetor/choke assembly to some sort of motor(no sh*t eh?), for the pieces you plated the little springs and the screws with the flat headed slot look like they would go together in some sort of throttle assembly to adjust it but for it as a whole I'm at a lost.
On the build topic I too like the look without the gaps and seeing your work so far this is gonna be awesome.
On a side note(not sure if this was asked yet) What are you thinking for the colour scheme traditional or something...new?
-Spartan 213
Yes, it is a carburetor. The complex linkages are because it links to multiple carburetors. Anyone putting it together yet?
Here's more.
As for color scheme, it will end up traditional, but I would like to paint it arctic and desert tan and take a couple of shots each way.
Redshirt
I'm on a horrendous connection here, so only about 1 out of every 5 photos is loading for me through this entire build. Very saddening, actually. >_>
But that being said, it's either an automotive multi-carb setup, perhaps a multiple-one-barrel setup for an old MG or Jag (I know the Jags had some WIERD carb setups) or something I'm unfamiliar with. I've never seen a butterfly valve on any of the bikes I've worked on, but then I tend to stick to older, simpler machines with slide valves. Also, the float bowls are HUGE for a bike.
Possibly something for an old Land Rover even? Not old like 1980's old, I mean old as in, "This thing has a manual PTO and the windows slide front to back" old.
But that being said, it's either an automotive multi-carb setup, perhaps a multiple-one-barrel setup for an old MG or Jag (I know the Jags had some WIERD carb setups) or something I'm unfamiliar with. I've never seen a butterfly valve on any of the bikes I've worked on, but then I tend to stick to older, simpler machines with slide valves. Also, the float bowls are HUGE for a bike.
Possibly something for an old Land Rover even? Not old like 1980's old, I mean old as in, "This thing has a manual PTO and the windows slide front to back" old.
- Member DIN
- S980
It is a multi-carb setup. Side draft carbs to be more specific. The big polished aluminum chamber is the suction chamber (sort of like an Amal slide chamber) used to level out the running during turns and bumps. It is not a motorcycle application and not an old Land Rover, though that would be cool too. Yes this is for an old vehicle, not far from your '65 Tempest, but more complicated.
Redshirt
I've seen cinderblocks that were more complicated than the old Poncho. XD
So it's got a float chamber designed to provide for continuous action during bumps and turns, it's got multiple carbs, it's not a motorcycle and it's not a Land Rover.
ALright, I've got a picture forming in my head. I think.
Here's another question. We've all assumed that it's a land vehicle. Is it for an old boat?
So it's got a float chamber designed to provide for continuous action during bumps and turns, it's got multiple carbs, it's not a motorcycle and it's not a Land Rover.
ALright, I've got a picture forming in my head. I think.
Here's another question. We've all assumed that it's a land vehicle. Is it for an old boat?
- Member DIN
- S980
I cut my teeth on a '67 Firebird 326 HO. It seemed complicated at the time, but now in the realm of multi-carbs, independent rear suspensions, disc brakes, overhead cams, and torsion bar fronts it was quite simple.
As far as your question goes, it is indeed for a land vehicle application requiring 3 carburetors. I'm truly surprised that the 405th members from the vehicle's country of origin have not recognized it and leapt to rally around their flag. Short of Keira Knightley and Elizabeth Hurley this thing is about the sexiest thing to hail from those shores.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Vshore solves it! My 1963 E-Type Jaguar had the audacity to suffer an engine failure (corrosion in the head culminating in non-catastrophic gasket failure) in the middle of my Spartan Laser project. It failed last April, but I put off disassembly until August/September. All of the machine work didn't get done until February. I kept putting it off in favor of the Splaser and the BSA, but finally needed to get serious as it's just too expensive and cool to leave around as parts. My wife is graciously hosting the bonnet in the dining room! That sort of patience shouldn't be abused for long. Anyway, I'm progressing on the Spartan Laser where I can, but building Jag subassemblies alongside it to keep the Jag moving. After I get all the subassemblies done, I'll finish the block and bolt everything together. So far I have the head, gearbox, two of three carbs, and the starter all rebuilt.
Here she is a couple of years ago at a photo shoot.
Here she is as seen a few days ago on a rare foray out of the garage--unfortunately not under its own power. This is far from the worst problem in the world to have, two outstanding projects vying for attention.
Anyway, thanks for playing. Congrats Vshore. I'm working on actual airsoft features of the Spartan Laser right now as I design and machine the feed tube attachments/hop-up adjust/hop-up tracer unit mountings.
Redshirt
Evilpenguin
Member
you have firstly an epic splaser build deep in progress but the classic red e type convertible? i think i hate and love you.
- Member DIN
- S980
If you are going to have problems, these are excellent problems to have. The down side is that I overdo trying to work on too many things at once making my hobbies seem like work--a sure sign I'm doing it wrong. Hopefully, I'll have both items sorted by the fall.
Wooowhooo!!! I won, lol!
"She's a beut Clark"! I love the red too. I hope you can get her back in order soon.
Classic Christmas Vacation! Later, when I attempt to get the Splaser actually working, you can be the first to say, "The little lights aren't twinkling, Clark". I love the red too. I've drawn the attention of the cops twice with the 'arrest me red', but never been ticketed.
OK, big work this week in designing the attachment point for the feed tubes. I not only needed a narrow way for the feed tubes to attach to the modified AND unmodified Echo1 BB chambers and hop-up units, my assembly has to accommodate the hop-up tracer unit, and provide the hop-up adjustment mechanism. For you non-airsoft guys, the hop-up is a system that imparts a back spin on the BBs as they depart the barrel. The back spin provides stabilization and lift. Without this spin, the BBs would rapidly drop upon leaving the barrel. The lift allows the BB to fly an approximate flat path for 100 yards or better. Too much lift and the BB will fly wildly, not enough and you get drop, so the adjustment mechanism has to allow very fine adjustment.
To locate my assemblies firmly to the chambers, I decided upon a plate that was carefully machined to sit on top of the chambers with holes and notches to engage to features on the chamber with no side play. Perpendicular to the plate would be horseshoe collars that would screw into the plate, locking it firmly into position. This place, once locked into position could host a mechanism for fine adjustment of the hop-up as well as an attachment collar for the feed tube.
Here's the first of the horseshoe collars being fitted up. Threaded holes into the tops of the legs will have to be precisely drilled to properly locate the top plate. This is a standard Echo1 E90 hop-up chamber that is only modified to remove the side bracing that made the chamber too wide causing interference with the other chambers. The other two chambers had the end cut off and rotated 180 degrees to work properly upside down. This partially-modified chamber is for the center barrel.
The airsoft parts I use are from echo1shop.com.
Three horseshoe collars ready to go!
Sorry about the dark image. Here is the early work on the top plate with the attachment collar for the feed tube welded on.
Still have to work on how exactly the feed tube will screw in place as well as attachment of the hop-up tracer unit. I see lots of set screws in my future.
Redshirt
- Member DIN
- S980
Continuing to develop the hop-up adjust and feed tube attachments.
I welded an extended half cylinder onto a piece of plate to make the upper component. The plate will be drilled for two attachment screws into the lower horseshoe. I drilled a hole through the half cylinder to accommodate the feed tube. I will drill a hole through the front of the half cylinder for a set screw to secure the feed tube.
Here are two of the upper pieces with their initial machining done.
Here's a look at how the two pieces will interlock with the BB chamber and hop-up assembly.
Here's the groove I milled into the back of the assembly to accommodate the hop-up tracer unit. I discovered that my units were not tall enough for the tracer units to expose all of their LEDs to the stream of BBs passing by. I had to weld on an additional thickness of half-cylinder.
Into each assembly I JB welded in place a section of feed tube. The feed tube section is displaced up from the bottom far enough to allow room for the collet on top of the BB chamber to locate properly. The top of the tube section is rece3ssed enough to allow the feed tube from the BB hopper to slide in and be locked by a set screw. With this short section of tube JB Welded along its length, I will grind a vertical slot through the full length of this spring to allow the light from the tracer unit to charge the BBs as they come through. Like an idiot, I tried to cut this slot with my band saw, not thinking about what the hardened spring steel would do to my say blade. I reduced a nice $16 saw blade to dull scrap in about four seconds!
Slightly earlier picture showing the short lengths of feed tubing before I machined the tracer unit grooves in the back and JB Welded the tube sections in place. I actually extended and rewelded a few things between this picture and the ones above to get a workable product. IF I can drill accurate holes to attach these to the horseshoes, I am very confident this design will work.
Redshirt
I welded an extended half cylinder onto a piece of plate to make the upper component. The plate will be drilled for two attachment screws into the lower horseshoe. I drilled a hole through the half cylinder to accommodate the feed tube. I will drill a hole through the front of the half cylinder for a set screw to secure the feed tube.
Here are two of the upper pieces with their initial machining done.
Here's a look at how the two pieces will interlock with the BB chamber and hop-up assembly.
Here's the groove I milled into the back of the assembly to accommodate the hop-up tracer unit. I discovered that my units were not tall enough for the tracer units to expose all of their LEDs to the stream of BBs passing by. I had to weld on an additional thickness of half-cylinder.
Into each assembly I JB welded in place a section of feed tube. The feed tube section is displaced up from the bottom far enough to allow room for the collet on top of the BB chamber to locate properly. The top of the tube section is rece3ssed enough to allow the feed tube from the BB hopper to slide in and be locked by a set screw. With this short section of tube JB Welded along its length, I will grind a vertical slot through the full length of this spring to allow the light from the tracer unit to charge the BBs as they come through. Like an idiot, I tried to cut this slot with my band saw, not thinking about what the hardened spring steel would do to my say blade. I reduced a nice $16 saw blade to dull scrap in about four seconds!
Slightly earlier picture showing the short lengths of feed tubing before I machined the tracer unit grooves in the back and JB Welded the tube sections in place. I actually extended and rewelded a few things between this picture and the ones above to get a workable product. IF I can drill accurate holes to attach these to the horseshoes, I am very confident this design will work.
Redshirt
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