Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.

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Back armour painted.
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Left arm painted and added.

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Hey RYNO, I found this in Bunnings of all places. $11 a can. Going to trial it.

http://i.imgur.com/bmttQLj.jpg
Yes you got it!. It's good stuff. The trick is a very very light first coat to give the lay up something to bond to. Just mist it over the piece. Then during perfect temp/humidity levels make sure to be consistent with your hand movements. It's great paint it hides imperfections very well. It has a high solids base so it covers quick and definitely let it cure for days before abusing. Early morning is the best time to paint here in Texas.

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This looks so sick! Like it came out straight from the movie... ;_;
I love it! *w*
This paintjob is so accurate it really brings out the real Iron Man here.
 
Hey RYNO, I found this in Bunnings of all places. $11 a can. Going to trial it.

http://i.imgur.com/bmttQLj.jpg

Ive used this on the nine colored rings I 3D printed from DC's Green Lantern comics. It does really well actually and stands up to quite a bit of abuse, granted it still scratches a bit. It does soften up one of the colors but im sure that has something to do with the paint and not the clear coat itself because the other 8 came out really well. Its not an invincible clear coat, obviously, but for going the cheap route it should work fine!
 
With the paint things are always tricky.

Growing up painting cars with my dad there are so many tricks and tips I could give you.

First off, when doing things like this, especially with metal and bondo, straight car paint is the way to go, hands down, it's the strongest and specifically made to go over multiple types of materials.

Your primer or base coat is always key and I always use a primer filler for cars, I very much do not recommend rustoleum products for cosplay, especially for what you're building. All these 2x coating is one coat or more are absurdly thick and can run way to easily. Sticking with single layer and very light coats is always best! Do not fret about how many coats you need to make, you should be making at least 3 anyway to do it properly, plus you can add more coats to certain areas to change the color depth and give things rounded hues that way too.

Automotive paint is also designed to dry and cure much faster! You color one day, you clear the next 3 layers each, boom job is done. :)

Please always use enamel paint, car paint is always enamel, you can't ever mix enamel with lacquer or acrylic! Which ever you start with as your primer is what you have to keep painting with, or the newest layer will eat right thru the lower one!! this is a horrible thing to go thru. Also remember that if you want to air brush things, especially with model paint, those are almost always enamel so that's another reason to stick with that type.

Now, for clear coats, I highly suggest using semi gloss or satin finish, you don't want gloss as it's always way to shiny, especially for a armor suit look. Gloss is meant for brand new off the assembly line cars. Also clear can run very very easily and you should always wet sand the final layer and then buff it smooth. I mean that's what you'd do on a car anyway. In this case I would highly suggest finishing with car clear coat if you can get it. Also 3 layers minimum. Car clear coat is way stronger than anything rustoleum offers and is designed to hold up to the harsh weather environments.

If you ever need special paints or colors made and in a spray can form, I have access to a place locally that can make any color spray paint and finish you can need and I can ship it too ya, all they make is car paint, and they always come thru for me so just let me know if you need anything!

Also, I'm sure you know most of this already I'm hoping that this info helps others too!

Keep up the awesome work!!!!
 
Thanks so much for your massive effort in sharing experience and advice. Your heart is in the right place good man. Same goes to all those in posts above who have also shared and advised.

As you may guess, I have this build on other forums on the internet and there are a lot of people giving me advice and tips. Sometimes all are in agreement, sometimes I get conflicting advice.

In the end it comes down to a couple of things. Price and time. I have spent way too much money on this thing and way too much time from my family and other responsibilities. Three years is too much on one suit.

At the end of the day, I have chosen a paint option that is cheap, (I'm halfway through the suit now so no point changing paints) and easy to fix if I fall over or drop the suit in transit. Kids in a hospital are not going to nit-pick on my shonky paint and panel work when I walk in to the ward in a full IM suit. They are just going to say wow.

I would love to have been able to afford to send the suit into a professional painting auto booth, even got on local radio and news media, asking for volunteers to step up.

No one did.

So, sometimes, you just have to say, "Stuff it, enough is enough, let's just get it done."

I am so appreciative of all the help and support I have had here.

Bless ya guys and girls.

SB
 
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It's all good man!

I didn't expect you to start over at this point, no way, not with how much you've done. I've spent almost the same amount of time on my current halo armor heh so I understand there completely :)

Anyone can use that or any other advice they can gather on a new project going forward, I just hope it helps them save some time, that's all. Time is the most valuable asset in all cosplay work that everyone does. :)

I just want to offer what ever I can to help you finish quicker!

If only you were in the states and close to me, I would have totally offered to car paint this baby for ya! My dad would have loved to help too. He loves this stuff and seeing me use my car work skills on something so different. hehe
 
Doing a bit of dolly-work and panel-beating some accessible parts of the suit to save using too much bog. Here's some of the tools I use for this.

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Phew! This piece was a lot of work!

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Nice work on the spray paint. I'm impressed with how clean it looks.

Also, mandatory:
 

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this built is amazing. I'm a huge fan and I'm really impressed by your skills and excellent results.
The amount of detail is insane and I cant wait to see the finished result.
 
Thanks mate. :)

I got a couple of hours in today to mask off the gold again then give the red a few coats of clear to protect it.

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Really loving this colour in full sun!

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Worm gear drive for the hinges has been fabricated by my engineer friend. Now to check for fit and see how much it needs to be modified. The motor is just a test motor. The actual motor will be about eight inches away connected by a flexible cable.

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This is looking really great. You're going to need yourself a handler - not to assist you with the suit, but rather to pick up all the dropped jaws behind you.....

As long as the drool doesn't cause rust issues.... :p

UPDATE:

Leg day is a little different for the Sandbagger....

Bogging up ready for paint..

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