Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.

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Tonight I made a spray booth out of a cardboard box, pedestal fan extracting paint out of the shed, then made a start on the high-build primer filler.

Last time I did this it took quite a few iterations of bog, spray. sand. I remember it looked awful when I started but with time and patience it looked brilliant in the end.

The can of filler cost me $17 at super cheap auto, but I think I'm going to take it into a professional auto sprayer and use the helmet as a test before I move onto the rest of the suit.

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If you ever get runs in the paint, keep a heat gun handy, on low and blow it at the runs, gravity downwards, try to "run" the runs off the surface. This is a trick my dad and I used to paint cars all the times so that you wouldn't have to sand down and restart and ruin a paint job. :)
 
If you ever get runs in the paint, keep a heat gun handy, on low and blow it at the runs, gravity downwards, try to "run" the runs off the surface. This is a trick my dad and I used to paint cars all the times so that you wouldn't have to sand down and restart and ruin a paint job. :)

Good tip. Thanks dude.

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I am so looking forward to seeing this in color.

Me too, but I wish my metal finishing was better so I didn't have to paint it...... ;)

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Next layer of touch ups today. I noticed a big improvement in smoothness, using only tiny amounts of bog this time. I think one more layer should do it.

Each time I bog it, sand it and spray another layer of primer-filler on it, I notice tiny faults, but less and less of them each time. This has to be done bit at a time. You can't just go and slap a thick layer of bog on then try to sand it into shape. I'm trying to add as little weight to this as possible and too much bog can thwart the mission.

I also pulled the hot-glued mesh out of the chin, cleaned it up and spot-welded it in.

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I think going to visit kids in hospitals is wonderful, they could definitely use the pick me up that will give them. The build looks amazing and I cannot wait to see it after paint!
 
Thanks gang. :D


Spent a bit of time in the shed tonight fine-tuning the fit of the eye lights so it's neater on the outside.

I inlaid the faceplate with some glad-wrap to protect, pressed the eye-lenses in and pushed the bog in from the front.

I tried the lights behind the steel mesh too and it looks terrible so that puts that to rest. Another light sand than etch prime and it's looking almost ready for paint.

In testing the eye lights, man are they BRIGHT!! I will have to find a way to dim them. Not as easy as you might think with LED's I hear. I'm a basic positive and negative man, so my electronics guy will sort that out for me hopefully.

Each one of these lights was originally running on three batteries. Now I have BOTH lights running on three batteries and they are still working fine and still as bright. I'm wondering if the draw from two lights on one set of batteries going to be a problem.
because the chipsets on the COB LED's are compensating. I really like these lights and lenses so it would be a shame to have to scrap them for something else. They are perfect fit and uniformity, just a bit too bright. Maybe if I can't dim them electrically I can just tint the lenses.

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Thanks gang. :D


In testing the eye lights, man are they BRIGHT!! I will have to find a way to dim them. Not as easy as you might think with LED's I hear. I'm a basic positive and negative man, so my electronics guy will sort that out for me hopefully.

Yes COB's can be fiddly to dim.
Best approach is some kind of PR (pulse reduction), as just "lowering the voltage" works acceptable with normal stand-alone leds, but on COB's, it's more something like "too bright, too bright, still too bright, crap can't see them at all now" kind of diming profile. :)
Reason is the array of individual leds on the COB chip do not act identical, which is why it's very easy to dim a single led in a circuit using a variable resistor, but this won't work all that well using multiple leds.

Still he can try to do a resistor approach first, who knows. Depending on the used COB, you _may_ get away with it still.

LED's in cars are COB's too (basically a bunch of sepperate LED's on one chip carrier, mimmicing "one giant bright led" as you well know) and dimming there is also done using PR (basically you're switching the led's on and off at a certain frequency, the slower you do it, the lower the emmited light level).

It's not that difficult, I'm sure your tech guy will solve it. In case he needs tips, I'm here. :)
A nice starting point for what he'll need is something like this http://www.reuk.co.uk/LED-Dimmer-Circuit.htm

But if you need a quick fix and you're not looking for an adjustable dimming level and you're just looking for a way to tone it down, you could use a colored filter over the COB. Keep in mind though, COB's tend to run pretty hot after a while so keep that in mind if you're playing with the idea of using a dimming color filter.

And yeah, I see why you want to keep them. Looks niiiiiice. :)
 
Thanks mate. Yeah he's going to change the resistor I think and we did talk about having a day and night mode for the two levels of brightness.


Today's update:

I just bought this 40mm silent fan from Jaycar, so it was
more prototyping today with cardboard to design a mounting bracket for it. It took a couple of goes, but cardboard is free.

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Next I traced it onto metal, marked and centre punched all the holes and tapped the four in the middle with a 4mm tap. I have a jar of screws left from dismantling an old computer and most of them are 4mm. Perfect for this sort of stuff.

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Next was to mark and stitch drill the intake hole, then file and sand it all smooth.

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The end result is quite neat.

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And it screws straight into the two drilled and tapped tabs I welded in earlier.

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Had a bit of a solder session and tidied up all the batteries and wiring. I'm just using AAA and AA for now, but will eventually change to LiPo once I advance it all a bit.

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Eye lights and video glasses are all one unit now. Easy in, easy out.

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And a quick motivational shot with all the lights going.

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Man, modern IronMan is kinda mean looking anyway, but seeing it in real worked steel is a whole different ballgame. Certainly not what I'd wanna see if I was a random henchman...

About the video glasses, does the FoV give you a headache? I was looking into something similar for a Gungnir helmet, but I get headaches looking at video games with too different of a FoV, I can't imagine trying to walk in a suit like that.
 
Man, modern IronMan is kinda mean looking anyway, but seeing it in real worked steel is a whole different ballgame. Certainly not what I'd wanna see if I was a random henchman...

About the video glasses, does the FoV give you a headache? I was looking into something similar for a Gungnir helmet, but I get headaches looking at video games with too different of a FoV, I can't imagine trying to walk in a suit like that.

It all depends on the FOV extreme. I have tried 140 degrees and that is just about right on, but I wouldn't mind just a little bit more peripheral. It takes some practice naturally, but I think the 170 degree camera I'm about to trial will be too much. The distortion just makes it hard to judge sistance and dep0th perception becomes a problem. I'd like to try a camera or two in between, say - 160 degrees and see how that goes.

At the end of the day you have to accept that nothing is as good as your own eyes, but it's a trade-off between looking the real-deal authentic on the outside, or sacrificing looks for function and freedom.

I'm happy to accept that in a full steel exoskeleton, I can't run, jump, squat and may have difficulty sitting or even scratching my nose. But it looks so cool......

SB
 
It most certainly does look cool. For your nose, they have smaller versions of those backscratcher things... Haha!

Anyway yeah, I imagine it also has a lot to do with the person looking through the glass as far as tolerating the difference. Can't wait to see what you decide on using.
 
eI'm happy to accept that in a full steel exoskeleton, I can't run, jump, squat and may have difficulty sitting or even scratching my nose. But it looks so cool......

SB

If scratching your nose is an issue, I know for astronauts they attach a foam cube to the inside of the fishbowl helmets for that very thing.

Like so-

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This man is a dentist, so we can't show you his face..... Mr electronics specialist playing in Iron Man's research and development wing, AKA - candyland.

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James tidying up the LED strips for the eyes

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The field of view and the picture quality on this tiny camera is phenomenal!

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Size comparison of the camera with the video glasses.

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