"Help!" for: Foam

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I finally purchased a hot knife and used it for the first time last night. I was using it on 1/4" foam and the first piece I cut was perfect. The second set of cuts left a very ragged edge but I dont think it was because of the knife, I think it was due to the fact that I was using thinner foam. Perhaps the hot knife will work consistently on the thicker EVA. Anyone have any experience with this?
 
Does your hot knife have a variable switch on it? If it does check out the model on google or something and see how to set it correctly. The thinner the foam the less heat required to cut it. The thicker / denser foam the hotter the blade will have to be to thermaly cut cleaner. The heat is primarily melting the foam after all, not really cutting through it.
 
Yeah, unfortunately it only has "On" and "Off". Hehe. I think thats why the first piece I cut out was perfect, the blade wasnt up to full temp. It's a soldering iron with a blade attachment and not an actual foam knife so thats probably a big part of the reason. It was nothing that a new blade and a regular xacto couldnt handle though. I'll probably use the soldering knife for cutting out shapes on thicker EVA.
 
Been playing with the band saw a little more.

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At first I was trying to cut out the eyes with the bandsaw, hence the two cuts by the eyes on the skull on the left. I found its easier and faster to just use the exacto knife for the nose and eyes.

Really want to try a scrollsaw now. Its the one power tool I dont own yet though. Maybe after Christmas. We have a closeout one at the store I work at for $100.00 we shall see.
 
I must admit I wouldnt have thought a band saw would look that good. If it works that well you might as well do the rest of it.
 
I would be willing to bet that the scroll saw will give sharper edge cuts with finer details. Did you have any issues with the heat from the blade burning the foam at all?
 
I would be willing to bet that the scroll saw will give sharper edge cuts with finer details. Did you have any issues with the heat from the blade burning the foam at all?

None. I can even cut the foam on the side of the blade without teeth.
 
Hey uh, guys, what happened?

I plasti-dipped my pieces, and picked up some latex paint to test out, even though everyone discouraged against it.

First, I cleaned the pieces with soap and water, then I painted on them.

Surprisingly, when it dries completely, the paint is pretty waterproof (I ran it under a faucet for about 5 min, let it soak for 30), and it's pretty durable to scratches, unless you REALLY try to scratch it with a metal object.

So I guess Latex Paint works just fine for final exterior coats?
 
You can use it to seal your entire foam piece. I've used it as well as hyperballistik and we have both had great results. You should use Alex Plus silicone caulking from Walmart.
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Get a bowl of water and a sponge. Squeeze a small amount of caulking out onto the piece you are sealing, wet the sponge and squeeze it out leaving it damp. Then start rubbing the caulking around filling in small recesses and pin holes, even "little" gaps where you joined foam together. When you are finished, the part should have a "slight" white haze over the entire piece, as though you spilled paint on a floor then tried to wipe it up. Do not leave alot on the part, because if it's thick it will crack and that's not good. Hope this helps and I hope I explained it good. Let me know if I need to explain it better. :D

As far as the spackling goes, if you're talking about drywall mud, I wouldn't use it because it's not flexible, thus it will crack...thus...that will suck. :D

so has anyone tryed this way for sealing there armor. Also dose it really work? I'm tight on funds so i was hoping to see if this works?
 
A lot of people prefer pepping for their helmets since the piece has so much detail that you want to maintain. I've seen a few good foam builds but nothing for Halo 4.

I'll keep looking, though. Worst case scenario, print off the normal pep files, then put them together to make templates.
 
Is it at all feasible to use bondo with foam? I'm looking for something to smooth over all the crevices and gaps that come from building with foam and need to know if there is anything to help this. I'm only worried about bondo because its hard and rigid while the foam is malleable, but I feel like if its thick enough it should be ok. Has anyone tried this before?
 
Well, I free handed it... Yeah, I know there is a lot places to improve, you don't get a full view of the back plate! :p

Just wanted to share what I was up to. Any points for originality?

-Seth
 
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