SamuraiSam ODST (first build)

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SamuraiSam

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This is something I've been wanting to do for years, but never had the money and time, and the money to do so. Finally getting started and I thought I wouldn't post until I at least had something to post about. So i worked furiously for about 3 days and this is the result. I plan on adding in a fan or several fans for ventilation, as well as lights on the inside of the the helmet to light up my face to give off the effect of the visor becoming transparent and opaque when I want. Possibly some lights and some of the ODST helmet attachments throughout the series.

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Visor not glued on yet, was going to wait until I had the supplies for resin and fiberglassing.


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That looks really crisp and clean. Nice work!
Thanks, it'll be about a week before I can get the materials to continue on with the helmet, so I guess in the meantime I can make some money and do some more pepping of the rest of the armor on the side. Hopefully it all comes out as good as the helmet did. I'll be sure to keep this thread updated with pictures as I progress. I always hear it's a lengthy time consuming process, and I'm ready for it, just hope I can figure out how to do everything when the time comes. Of course I can always come here with questions, but I always get so confused whenever I read through everything.
 
Thanks, it'll be about a week before I can get the materials to continue on with the helmet, so I guess in the meantime I can make some money and do some more pepping of the rest of the armor on the side. Hopefully it all comes out as good as the helmet did. I'll be sure to keep this thread updated with pictures as I progress. I always hear it's a lengthy time consuming process, and I'm ready for it, just hope I can figure out how to do everything when the time comes. Of course I can always come here with questions, but I always get so confused whenever I read through everything.
There are definitely a few pointers that are good to know and can be searched for but a lot of this is trial and error. Unless you just absolutely understands what someone explains, there is always experimentation involved. But feel free to ask for advice before, during, after, etc,etc if you need it.
A couple of key points:
If you get confused or stuck on something, just do a quick search in the 405's search bar. Chances are someone has came across the same issue you are having.
If you can't find it or have a more specific question, never hesitate to ask

And good lord it's time consuming. No matter what type of armor you go for, be it pep or foam. I've been working on my ODST helmet for nearly 4 months. I want it to be amazing before I mold it (it'll be my first time making a mold of a helmet)
Anyways, keep up the good work and keep us posted! It seems like this year is the year of the ODST.
Hoo Rah
 
Check out c3real killers videos in YouTube. That dude does it right. If I can make a quick recommendation too, instead of hardening with resin, which will cause warping since some of it will evaporate and therefore pull the paper, paint a light coat of smooth on 320. It will permeate the paper like resin, but it had very little mass lost to evaporation. There is nothing worse than watching days of pepp labor burn away when you discover a piece warped beyond repair.
 
Check out c3real killers videos in YouTube. That dude does it right. If I can make a quick recommendation too, instead of hardening with resin, which will cause warping since some of it will evaporate and therefore pull the paper, paint a light coat of smooth on 320. It will permeate the paper like resin, but it had very little mass lost to evaporation. There is nothing worse than watching days of pepp labor burn away when you discover a piece warped beyond repair.
I looked up C3real Killer but didn't get results, would be neat if you could link me in the right direction, please and thank you! Can you do me another huge favor, and go into some detail regarding the smooth on 320? Like is it stronger or weaker, or just as strong? Do I still fiberglass with it, or is it a different process entirely? Sorry, this is my first build and all, I've been wanting to do this for years, and when it comes to anything I can put my name on, I tend to be a perfectionist. I'm also kind of a hands on learner, so it was very difficult for me to learn most of the process purely through reading about it, but I feel I have a grasp on most of it. But yea, I'll try my best to understand everything you tell me. And also, thank you!
 
Oh, sorry. Great videos and I would have been very lost without them.

Smoothon 320 is a 50/50 plastic mix made by the company Smooth On. http://www.smooth-on.com/

The resin drying process can warp the pepp model. The plastic coat to harden, rather than the resin coat, makes it a lot easier. It costs more to buy a small sized 320 kit (should be available at most art stores, US anyways) around $30 vs the $10 to buy polyester resin, but 3 days of my time is worth that price!

Again, good luck and watch those vids.
 
Ok, so I've been doing a bit of research so I wouldn't be here with annoying already answered questions. From everything I read, the Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 320 and 321 seem to be the best stuff to use to avoid warping (thank you Ghost Bear 027 for the recommendation), and still have a good solid piece of (costume) armor. But I have some confusion.

Some people say 320 is better, some say 321.
I hear 320 cures faster, not allowing much working time (but enough) and that 321 is softer than 320.
I would like to have it be more durable, so I'm considering the 320. (again, thank you Ghost Bear 027)

And my next question here is, should I just use the smooth cast for hardening to prevent warping, then continue on using fiberglass and resin on the inside, or should I stick with the 320 for outside and in and not use fiberglass at all?

Sorry, I'm very thorough when I'm trying to learn something, and I made sure to look for these questions and answers, but it's mostly preference sounding stuff, or I just couldn't find answers. I just hope to not upset anyone with any possible obvious questions, or any already answered that I may have missed. I'm intelligent, I swear.

And yes, those Cereal Kill3r videos were incredibly helpful! (AGAIN, thank you Ghost Bear 027!)
 
No worries and glad to help!

I only use the smoothcast to harden the model. After that is complete (it will feel very durable and hard, even with a few painted on layers) I use the fiberglass and Rondo to beef it up because it's less expensive. I use the smoothcast later if I'm casting.

Sooooo... Instead of hardening with the resin, which may ruin your day/week, I'd recommend some light coats of the plastic on the inside to beef up the build prior to really having a go with the resin and bondo.

Good luck! And remember...
 
No worries and glad to help!

I only use the smoothcast to harden the model. After that is complete (it will feel very durable and hard, even with a few painted on layers) I use the fiberglass and Rondo to beef it up because it's less expensive. I use the smoothcast later if I'm casting.

Sooooo... Instead of hardening with the resin, which may ruin your day/week, I'd recommend some light coats of the plastic on the inside to beef up the build prior to really having a go with the resin and bondo.

Good luck! And remember...

Ok, hate to keep bugging you, lol, but I just like being extra clear to get rid of any doubts. So you're saying to use the smoothcast on the inside only? Then from there to go ahead and fiberglass and resin the inside over the smoothcast?
Again, I'm embarrassed to be the guy that seems like he can't get it through his skull, but I'm trying, lol.
But if on the inside only, would it hurt to do it on the outside instead (the initial smoothcast hardening that is), or what about inside and out, or is the inside just THE way to go?
Oh, and thank you thank you thank you!
 
Depends? Inside is safest, and you can cake it on with no worries about loss of definition, but I'm pretty sure most others (including me) do apply a light coat outside just to make sure the paper fibers are saturated fully. This makes sanding a lot easier and keeps the details from the pepp work still visible. You'll see Cereal in one vid when talking about doing the finer details because he has some of the divots get some filler in them he wants to remove. Go to 3:38 and see what I'm talking about.

I use files and a utility blade, which I think is a bit superior to a straight razor since it has the angles on the outside to get into smaller spaces when scraping.


I really can't recommend his videos enough. EXCELLENT tutorials.

You put a lot of effort into the detail of the pep on the outside. Coating the inside allows you to sand down the peaks along pepp edges if you want to round those edges, by providing the material to sand into and thereby not ending up with a gaping hole. You may still get the hole, but patching isn't all that hard or time consuming.

So yes, inside is a sure thing. Outside if you wish, just don't cake it on.

No sweat on the questions too mate, that's what we're here for. Good luck with the build and stay patient. It is a learning process for sure.
 
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