Halo 4 BR85HB SR (Pic heavy!) - First Major Project

That's looking incredibly nice, Rob. I'll probably be making my own custom battery holders to try and cut down on the amount of space taken up by plastic when I'm installing my set, but it's good to see how much space we actually have to work with.

I'm given to assume you've done the maths and that ~14V is going to be enough to power everything? I've very little experience with electronics, so I'm curious to see how much the systems are likely to guzzle.

Arcanine said:

That's looking incredibly nice, Rob. I'll probably be making my own custom battery holders to try and cut down on the amount of space taken up by plastic when I'm installing my set, but it's good to see how much space we actually have to work with.

I'm given to assume you've done the maths and that ~14V is going to be enough to power everything? I've very little experience with electronics, so I'm curious to see how much the systems are likely to guzzle.

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Yeah, I'm liking the way it's looking, it's nice to have one almost finished so I can actually see the target I'm aiming for with the rest. I'm running a test now to see whether I should sand then clear coat then sand some more, or just clear coat onto the primer-texture and then sand that. I'll find out sometime today, I guess.

Custom battery holders are a good plan, and aren't exactly difficult to make. You could even make custom quick release spring contact battery blocks that fit precisely into the shape of the volume and can be swapped out virtually hands free. That'd be easier if you're putting them into the front of the stock, of course. On the other hand, you could make the "bolt head" in the foregrip a quick release button for doing it that way.

I know the Arduino can take up to 12V, pretty sure the Pro Mini can too. Otherwise I'll just stick a 5V reg in there, no big deal. Power amps tend to run on 9-15V, so that might like to suck on the 14.8V direct out of the four cells, I dunno. The LCDs are probably 9V, maybe 5V, and lasers/LEDs/whatever can probably run off the 5V too, I dunno. As for capacity, I'll be using 2600mAh cells. As long as I can get about at least 30 minutes out of them, I'm good. I Googled a bit initially, but didn't find much. If you look up the power consumption of your individual components, you can add it together. I'd be pretty surprised if it came to more than about 800mA. Each Arduino pin supports a maximum of 50mA. But, since I don't know is why I erred on the side of caution and said two hours.

I've personally run an Arduino Uno R3 and SainSmart 16x2 keypad shield off a 650mA power supply, so those two by themselves are guaranteed to run off 2600mAh for a minimum of 4 hours. How well that translates to our purposes, I don't know, but I'm not too concerned. That said, I'm far more interested in props for film and photo than cosplay specifically, so my requirements in the operational department are far lower and the accuracy and finish department much higher. But I mean, you could just fill the foregrip and barrel jacket with batteries if they don't last long enough. Obviously do a test before building custom blocks and stuff. You could make it so that the foregrip is actually just a cover, and the battery holders are actually glued to the underside of the jacket. Or the inside (with more capacity), if you cut up the whole thing. Then the foregrip bolts on to the battery block itself.

Really, without some testing and some defined expectations, I can't say for sure. But hopefully this gives you a general idea. Just run your circuits off external batteries until they die, then you know.

That sounds pretty reasonable. I just spoke with my tech guy and for all intents and purposes, a set of rechargeable packs should be fine as long as the voltage regulators are all set up properly. I've had issues before where I've put rechargeables into a standard circuit, blown the entire thing up, and had him go absolutely nuts at me for it, so I'm understandably wary of making the same mistake again. But, from what I can glean, it should be pretty viable to have a spare pack somewhere on my person while on deployment, so I can swap them out when needed. Likewise, 4-6 hours of use seems fairly decent - I doubt I'd be using the weapon for anywhere near that long while on deployment, given the need to take a break now and again for refreshments and to get out of the 'hotbox', as it were. And, again, should the need arise, I can quite easily have a spare pack on my person, I'm planning for extra storage on my armour for battery packs, wallet, phone and the like.

I don't mind having to bring along a few packs of batteries to a deployment - after all, this weapon will likely only be 'active' at deployments, so even using standard batteries will be fine. They're cheap enough as it is, and even if I have to use a pack of eight a day, I'll likely only shoot about $10 or so for a few packs of Duracell.

As I've said, I'll try and have a sit down with my tech guy properly at some point and go over all of the electronics ideas - he's more able to understand them than I am, and he's the one you're better off bouncing actual technical specifications off of than me. That said, if you could provide an estimated parts list, we may be able to figure things out a little better.

Yeah, I've looked up the circuit for the L7805 5V reg and all that's required is a 0.1uF cap between output and ground to absorb fluctuating loads. If it's fed off AC you put a 33uF smoothing cap between input and ground, but I'm assuming that's irrelevant for batteries. I'm also assuming that the setup for other regulators is pretty much identical, but I haven't checked the datasheets yet.

Overloading caps and LEDs and stuff can be an issue, sure. Though probably not on this one since everything is digital circuitry, really. No need for limiting resistors here as long as all the regulators behave, no worries.

It'll be lighter to carry if you keep the batteries small and swappable, for sure. The best bet there is in the front of the stock, since the lid's magnetic (using these magnets, fyi: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SJ61EC/ though I may include a a few magnets in the kit, since it's pointless to buy 30 if you only want four). Cut in some slots, or make the battery holder zig-zag (could play on that for a cool geometric Halo pattern) and you're set:



Fits perfectly. Huh. Pretty easy to design a holder around.

The electonics systems are probably going to involve some trial and error for me, but I could try to put together a rough idea of what's required for the basics. Some stuff is factual already (like the trigger switch, though now I'm not drilling an exact hole, there's some more flexibility).

That seems more than reasonable. My tech guy (we'll call him Kilo from now on) will be visiting tomorrow, so we'll probably spend a few hours pulling your weapon apart based on the information you've given so far, in an attempt to plot out what we're doing and where things are going.

I hadn't expected the lid of the stock to be removable, so that opens up some more options for me - the image you posted a page or so back lists it as a solid-cast piece. If it's going to be removable, I'll likely have it secured with some screws, since - again - I don't want to put my faith in magnetism alone. Having some screws that look slightly out-of-place is preferable to my lid flopping off unexpectedly after a jolt. The pad/butt of rifles are usually padded and secured with screws nowadays anyways, I don't see why some screws would look out of place.

I'll have some more questions to relay from Kilo to ask you tomorrow - likely I'll PM you them rather than clutter up the thread, so that any concise information can be filtered to other members. He did mention something about adding a recoil system, though, just in case you want to consider that while I'm thrashing ideas out with (of?) him.

Sounds like a plan to me. Feel free to list your findings and ideas here if you want.

No, yeah, was always planning on the lid to be rotocast and removable. Originally I had an Arduino Uno in the back and would need access and cable management (it's the only way to route past the magazine well, basically), but I've switched to the Mini Pro which opens that rear area up for a 3" or whatever speaker. The bumper, also being rotocast, can have a cutout in it to make sure the maximum size of speaker fits (maybe 4"? The bigger the better. If you have armour on, a companion wireless low profile 8-10" sub in the chest plate for proper bass would be awesome.). Definitely says hollow in the pic:



Of course some of that has changed, but yeah.

Go for it. I'm still trying to figure out how to get 70mm of charging lever travel out of a compact electrical system, so if he has any ideas on electromechanics/mechatronics I'm all ears. I may just end up using some kind of stepper motor and micro limit switch system, since it needs to move around at very defined speeds (which I need to get into Audacity and figure out).

Meanwhile, almost ready to start clearcoating the barrel!

RobTC said:

Sounds like a plan to me. Feel free to list your findings and ideas here if you want.
Go for it. I'm still trying to figure out how to get 70mm of charging lever travel out of a compact electrical system, so if he has any ideas on electromechanics/mechatronics I'm all ears. I may just end up using some kind of stepper motor and micro limit switch system, since it needs to move around at very defined speeds (which I need to get into Audacity and figure out).

Meanwhile, almost ready to start clearcoating the barrel!

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I have my comp sci student team working away on the embedded systems for my suit and props and would be happy to help with ideas if you would like. I am not sure exactly what you are trying to get, maybe you are looking for a 70milliAmp charge level out of a compact electrical system? If you give me more details on the specs you are looking at I can definitely get you some answers.

The props we are planning are to be outfitted with arduino nanos, speaker, lights, ammo counter, RF signal, laser pointer diode, and bluetooth connectivity. Which looks to be quite similar to the components you are looking to set up here. We are planning to power the system with small, lipstick size 5V power supplies. Because the current draw is so low there is not actually a ton of capacity required so those power supplies have some pretty serious lasting power (and the guns should only be powered on and functional when un-holstered, thus saving battery power). Here's the power cell we are testing with USB Battery Pack.

GeekGuardianDee said:

I have my comp sci student team working away on the embedded systems for my suit and props and would be happy to help with ideas if you would like. I am not sure exactly what you are trying to get, maybe you are looking for a 70milliAmp charge level out of a compact electrical system? If you give me more details on the specs you are looking at I can definitely get you some answers.

The props we are planning are to be outfitted with arduino nanos, speaker, lights, ammo counter, RF signal, laser pointer diode, and bluetooth connectivity. Which looks to be quite similar to the components you are looking to set up here. We are planning to power the system with small, lipstick size 5V power supplies. Because the current draw is so low there is not actually a ton of capacity required so those power supplies have some pretty serious lasting power (and the guns should only be powered on and functional when un-holstered, thus saving battery power). Here's the power cell we are testing with USB Battery Pack.

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Hey, I'll consider any suggestions! I need the charging lever (bolt handle) to move the entire length of its slot, which measures about 70mm.

1) Ready-built solenoid can't work because the travel distance is proportionally small relative to its coil length. I'd need a huge solenoid to actuate 70mm.

2) Custom sequential coil system I haven't totally counted out yet but would suck a lot of power and likely require a bank of capacitors and IGBTs to operate, assuming 14V would even produce enough magnetic flux since a voltage multiplier A) slows charge time and B) probably isn't con-safe, and I don't know if the capacitors could recharge fast enough to actually complete the entire reciprocating motion on time, or start the next one quickly enough- given that I can't just dump 10A or whatever into them from lithium batteries, it seems unlikely.

3) DC motor is a pain to try to use for linear motion, so just no.

4) Servos, even high-speed ones, are too slow to be able to move that much linear distance in the prescribed time (maybe milliseconds?) without a really long swing arm, which is impractical.

5) Pneumatics is the most obvious option, but it's out, I want a single, simple, con-safe electrical system.

6) Linear motors (actual linear induction motors) are an option, but I'd probably have to custom wind one and then use a signal generator (a dedicated Arduino, maybe) to drive it. It'd be cool and I could drive it at any speed I wanted based on signal frequency, but I'd prefer a simpler solution.

I think that's it. Seems like a stepper with a belt and some microswitches might be the best option, if there's one I can drive at crazy speeds (I'm not actually sure there is, now I think about it). It may be a case of scratch building an AC linear induction motor (maglev!)

So yeah, any ideas I've missed, I'm all ears!

Those mini USB power supplies are basically just a couple rolled up lithium sheet cells in a rectangle with a voltage regulator and current limiter on the end... So essentially, the same as my system but with extra packaging bulk and slightly less convenient charging. Probably handy for testing purposes! I guess you have to make sure all your systems are 5V though.

RobTC said:

1) Ready-built solenoid can't work because the travel distance is proportionally small relative to its coil length. I'd need a huge solenoid to actuate 70mm.

2) Custom sequential coil system I haven't totally counted out yet but would suck a lot of power and likely require a bank of capacitors and IGBTs to operate, assuming 14V would even produce enough magnetic flux since a voltage multiplier A) slows charge time and B) probably isn't con-safe, and I don't know if the capacitors could recharge fast enough to actually complete the entire reciprocating motion on time, or start the next one quickly enough- given that I can't just dump 10A or whatever into them from lithium batteries, it seems unlikely.

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What is the range of the most practical solenoids you are looking at? Solenoids have lots of power, but short throw distances. Why not mount the solenoid an inch or two away and put an RC servo control arm on a pivot in between? The solenoid throws a short distance and pushes near the pivot point. The handle is actuated by an arm that connects far enough from the pivot to get 70mm of travel using basic lever principals.

or

Scavenge or buy a cheap LPEG (low power electric gearbox) airsoft gearbox and use the piston to drive the charging lever. LPEGs are usually found in the starter-grade airsoft guns at big box local retailers. The gearbox is plastic and doesn't shoot BBs far or hard. However, they are very small. Here's one for $20 at Redwolf Airsoft.

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Books_DVDs_eBook_AirsoftPress_LPEG_Mechbox_DIY_Kit.htm

Not what I'd even consider for an airsoft conversion due to it's cheap nature, but perhaps ideal for driving a charging handle. You might prefer to mount it remotely as is and feed an air tube up to pneumatically drive the charge handle and let the little puffs of air push the charge handle back against a light spring.

Before any LPEG fans get on me as I bag on their cheapness, they have their enthusiasts and are the way into the hobby for many. There are also some quality versions out there driving high-end compact submachine guns like MP7s as well, but more than you need for this project.

My 2 cents.

Redshirt

Redshirt said:

What is the range of the most practical solenoids you are looking at? Solenoids have lots of power, but short throw distances. Why not mount the solenoid an inch or two away and put an RC servo control arm on a pivot in between? The solenoid throws a short distance and pushes near the pivot point. The handle is actuated by an arm that connects far enough from the pivot to get 70mm of travel using basic lever principals.

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Actuations tend to be in the 4-10mm range. I too had the leverage torque/distance tradeoff idea, but that's a very long lever! I'm trying to avoid too much in the way of mechanics because the constant vibrations will want to shake itself apart. I had the idea of using it as an air pressure controller; if it plunges and retracts a large piston in a short tube and the lever is attached to a small piston in a long tube, that could potentially work, and the pressures involved would be relatively low.

Redshirt said:

Scavenge or buy a cheap LPEG (low power electric gearbox) airsoft gearbox and use the piston to drive the charging lever. LPEGs are usually found in the starter-grade airsoft guns at big box local retailers. The gearbox is plastic and doesn't shoot BBs far or hard. However, they are very small. Here's one for $20 at Redwolf Airsoft.

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Books_DVDs_eBook_AirsoftPress_LPEG_Mechbox_DIY_Kit.htm

Not what I'd even consider for an airsoft conversion due to it's cheap nature, but perhaps ideal for driving a charging handle. You might prefer to mount it remotely as is and feed an air tube up to pneumatically drive the charge handle and let the little puffs of air push the charge handle back against a light spring.

Before any LPEG fans get on me as I bag on their cheapness, they have their enthusiasts and are the way into the hobby for many. There are also some quality versions out there driving high-end compact submachine guns like MP7s as well, but more than you need for this project.

My 2 cents.

Redshirt

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I think I have one or two of those lying around in the basement, I'll take a look. My only concern is the gear noise overpowering the audio circuitry, since AEGs (well, cheap gear boxes) are pretty loud. Yeah, the remote mounting pneumatic idea seems to be the best idea I've had so far as well, glad someone else is thinking that's viable. By "no pneumatics", (hopefully) obviously I really meant "no gas canisters".

I also just had another idea- steppers are too slow due to too many poles and DC motors are too variable, but what about the halfway point? Brushless motors, with their low pole count, are as fast as DC motors but are easier to control and can be positioned fairly precisely even without a feedback servomechanism by controlling the power phase. I think that and the pneumatic (hydraulic, maybe? incompressibility of water might operate faster?) solenoid are the top two options at the minute.

Thanks for your (ever-valuable) input!

I think the piston design on AEGs would work best (and easiest). Just a geared down motor with a sector gear (one that slips, missing teeth on half the gear). This would also be the easiest to control, simply power the motor on when firing and cut power when stopped.

If you downgrade the spring to one with less compression, it would quiet it down quite a lot. You could even insulate the box.

You could print out all the parts if you have access to a 3d printer.

Had a good chat with Kilo earlier, we've decided to go in a different direction to the one you're looking at. However, would it be possible to get the dimensions of the ammunitions counter from you, Rob? Or, at least, a vague size of the screen you intend to use? We've seen some Arduino and Rasberry Pi kits that incorporate miniature TFT screens and we need the counter dimensions in order to make an educated guess.

Master Builder said:

I think the piston design on AEGs would work best (and easiest). Just a geared down motor with a sector gear (one that slips, missing teeth on half the gear). This would also be the easiest to control, simply power the motor on when firing and cut power when stopped.

If you downgrade the spring to one with less compression, it would quiet it down quite a lot. You could even insulate the box.

You could print out all the parts if you have access to a 3d printer.

Click to expand...

When I say "ease of control", I don't mean so much "easy to turn on and off" as "easy to position with reasonable accuracy within a time of my choosing". Emphasis on the "control", I suppose. If there's some complex custom circuitry or programming involved, I'm not too bothered about that, as long as it's not too complex to wrap my head around. I already have to scratch-build some kind of 445-500nm dual-laser (maybe LED if I can get away with it) micro projector for the ammo counter due to the geometry of its housing, and build a second, functional (possibly thermal vision if I can justify springing for it), scope, so crazy out-there is fine- for marketing purposes, even preferable. There's also no particular time constraint here; while I'll offer the electronics systems as an after-market thing, I'm not timing their release to coincide with the kits, they just get done when they get done, as time and finances allow.

So it's the spring that makes all the noise and not the gears? Interesting. I'll try to remember that.

Ha, I wish. It's on the build list, but only a 50% chance of getting done this year, depending on whether I decide to go for that or a laser cutter.

I'm currently leaning back towards the solenoid operated pneumatic reduction system, which is pretty simple to build and by far the easiest to control, assuming the actuator has a good response time. I haven't checked the waveforms of the firing sounds I'm using, but I'm guessing the charging lever has around 15ms to move backwards, and probably about 40ms or so to return forward. Like I said in a previous post, I'm not going to move it for all three shots, it can simply stay open-bolt for the duration of the three round bursts. I like simple, but I also need it to operate within defined parameters, which is something DC motors (like those in AEG gearboxes) aren't very good at.

Arcanine said:

Had a good chat with Kilo earlier, we've decided to go in a different direction to the one you're looking at. However, would it be possible to get the dimensions of the ammunitions counter from you, Rob? Or, at least, a vague size of the screen you intend to use? We've seen some Arduino and Rasberry Pi kits that incorporate miniature TFT screens and we need the counter dimensions in order to make an educated guess.

Click to expand...

You're not following my crazy nutcase plan? I'm shocked!

I keep taking the measurements, I keep forgetting to notate them. Let's see... Ok, 36mm high, 18mm at the base, of the screen area, 13mm at the top before the rounded-off bit, about 2.5mm down from the top.

I'm going to use as big of a screen as I can fit inside the carry handle housing, probably 2", but I'm taking off the backlight and adding the projection optoelectronics around it. The actual ammo counter area just doesn't have the shape to fit an LCD screen, though there's a possibility that a simple small OLED for the numbers and then LED backlights for the other parts might work (and I'll test that before trying the more complex stuff, thinking about it). The main problem is its housing- while you could probably just about squeeze in the active area of an LCD, it's a very odd shape and doesn't have enough volume around it to hold the inactive area, bezel, PCB, etc. Obviously a simple LCD installation was my very first go-to, I didn't just opt for the most difficult option because I felt like it.

You're welcome to try whatever you can come up with, though, I'm interested to see.

A handful of pics before bed!

$450 of Smooth-On products. Mildly terrifying to order, not really a whole lot to receive. Got 'em stashed in the pantry to maintain temperature.



Found some 4" soft foam scraps to keep the master pieces safe in before and after moulding. Might need a little dusting off for moulding, but they should work perfectly well for archiving. Note how shiny the barrel is without even pointing it at a light source. It has its first coat of clear gloss, needs sanding to 2000 grit, then the second coat, then that sanding to 2000 grit too. As you can see, the grip rebuild is almost complete. Much easier to mould, cast and install electronics this way. Looks like I'm gonna have to do some texture touch-up though. Shame.



The ammo counter and a quarter (@arcanine). You can get exact dimensions if you take the quads used for the LCD texture, export as an OBJ, and stick in Pepakura Designer. It's very small, a very awkward shape, and the housing it's in doesn't make things any easier. Projection seems to be the only way without some kind of crazy cut-to-shape e-ink thing or something equally perfect but non-existent. Or a "nixie tube" made out of EL tape. I dunno, I'm spitballing here.



Second knurling batch also only did one side. Not to worry, it's worth the time and effort to do it this way. Looks very good!



Currently trying to figure out how to build/break down the scope for ease of building, ease of demoulding and minimising silicone use. I have a few ideas that I'm tossing around while I fill and sand for hours on end!

Tomorrow I grab some Design Master Premium Metals Super Silver from Michaels, the Future from Walmart, and mixing cups, screw heads, etc from Home Depot.

This has been a much more ambitious project than I anticipated. Probably should have just gone with an M6 or something for my very first attempt at a real build, I'm glad to be almost at the end of the tunnel. But then again, will you ever really accomplish anything if you don't push beyond what you think you're capable of?

Nice knurls!

I look forward to seeing the blowback effect--however you end up actuating it.

Master builder does have a point about using a regular AEG gearbox, though you are right about positioning with a DC motor. Instead of fancy electronics driving everything, consider letting the DC AEG box drive everything. There are off the shelf 3 round burst MOSFETS. The movement of the nozzle can click the ammo counter/sound switch. The piston can direct drive the charger. There are a couple of really simple mods guys have done to their Marui-style Thompson M1A1s to create a blowback effect by adding animation to the charging handle. You could do the same.

Redshirt

Redshirt said:

Nice knurls!

I look forward to seeing the blowback effect--however you end up actuating it.

Master builder does have a point about using a regular AEG gearbox, though you are right about positioning with a DC motor. Instead of fancy electronics driving everything, consider letting the DC AEG box drive everything. There are off the shelf 3 round burst MOSFETS. The movement of the nozzle can click the ammo counter/sound switch. The piston can direct drive the charger. There are a couple of really simple mods guys have done to their Marui-style Thompson M1A1s to create a blowback effect by adding animation to the charging handle. You could do the same.

Redshirt

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Ha, thanks, they'd be a little more crisp if I used a clean file, but what can you do. Almost certainly more consistent than anything I'd do manually.

Hmm, approaching from the opposite direction altogether. Has a ring of genius to it. I guess it depends on the speed of the motor, since I'm kinda tied to the iconic BR sound- I don't think I have much leeway in stretching it to fit- but if it works it would be by far the easiest option, for sure. Definitely worth looking into, I'll check out those M1 mods too.

Here's the mod to get a blowback effect on a Marui-style Thompson (or Aliens Pulse Rifle).


I would think that you could control the motor speed via variable resistor combined with 3 round burst MOSFET to nail the effect. There are free phone apps out there to measure rate of fire by sound. You could play the BR sound to get the sustained rate of fire from the app, then adjust the motor speed to match.

Redshirt

Having spoken at length with Will over this, considering some things that have cropped up with immigration and housing recently, we've decided that the money might be better appropriated elsewhere (housing, immigration fees, etc).

Unfortunately that means I'm going to have to bow out of buying one of these rifles - at least, for the time being. It'd be a really nice thing to have, but unfortunately, it's a luxury we can ill-afford after looking more closely at where else we need the funds. If some spare money comes up I'll be sure to throw it at you, Rob, and I'm sorry for disappointing you - but, my slot would be better off given to somebody else who's able to stump up the fees there and then.

I'll continue to monitor the thread and provide input, though, where I can!

Redshirt said:

Here's the mod to get a blowback effect on a Marui-style Thompson (or Aliens Pulse Rifle).

I would think that you could control the motor speed via variable resistor combined with 3 round burst MOSFET to nail the effect. There are free phone apps out there to measure rate of fire by sound. You could play the BR sound to get the sustained rate of fire from the app, then adjust the motor speed to match.

Redshirt

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It's certainly a relatively simple method of achieving the result. I think it'll just require some experimentation on my part, probably after the other aspects of the electronics systems are in place.

Arcanine said:

Having spoken at length with Will over this, considering some things that have cropped up with immigration and housing recently, we've decided that the money might be better appropriated elsewhere (housing, immigration fees, etc).

Unfortunately that means I'm going to have to bow out of buying one of these rifles - at least, for the time being. It'd be a really nice thing to have, but unfortunately, it's a luxury we can ill-afford after looking more closely at where else we need the funds. If some spare money comes up I'll be sure to throw it at you, Rob, and I'm sorry for disappointing you - but, my slot would be better off given to somebody else who's able to stump up the fees there and then.

I'll continue to monitor the thread and provide input, though, where I can!

Click to expand...

Fair enough. I know exactly how many thousands of dollars into the process you are right now, so I sympathise completely! I'm sure you'll be able to go for it eventually (hell, I'll do a run of one especially for you in return for all your help if I'm not casting any more by whenever it is), maybe for the release of Halo 5 or 6, but it's definitely better to be fiscally prudent for the time being.

Meanwhile, the barrel is now waiting on partial filling with some Smooth Cast 305 and finishing off internally before having its Pledge polishing, and the Foregrip is just waiting on a little clear coat touch-up on the rear plug bit and its Pledge polish!



The magazine is probably ready for dark priming and the grip has been retextured and is ready for its final light priming!