3D Printing a Reach HAZOP Helmet

toomtoomX · Apr 20, 2015

Hiya, guys, toomtoom here.
So, I'm taking a class this year called Computer Integrated Manufacturing, and instead of a test as the final, we have to make a physical object with some degree of computer design.
This got me really excited, as I really enjoy Halo cosplay, but never had a "kickstarter" per say. So, after MUCH yelling at the computer, I have got torsoboys model of the HAZOP Helmet thickened and cut into 8 parts in preparation for 3D printing. Here are some pics.

briger · Apr 20, 2015

that looks great could you send me one when its done? just kidding

but seriously that is going to look awesome.

nintendstroid · Apr 20, 2015

you should spend some more time smoothing out the model, and maybe make the walls a bit thinner. this is gonna take a loooooot of filament. and print time.
If you are gonna 3d print is wouldn't it be nicer to have almost no work on adding extra detail and smoothing. but only needing to fill it in.

TheUX31EGuy · Apr 20, 2015

Sweet! How much do you want for it?

Is the cutting up of the 3d model absolutely necessary?

toomtoomX · Apr 21, 2015

TheUX31EGuy said:
Sweet! How much do you want for it?
Is the cutting up of the 3d model absolutely necessary?

Unfortunately, this is the only format that fits in the print bed

nintendstroid said:
you should spend some more time smoothing out the model, and maybe make the walls a bit thinner. this is gonna take a loooooot of filament. and print time.
If you are gonna 3d print is wouldn't it be nicer to have almost no work on adding extra detail and smoothing. but only needing to fill it in.

I don't really trust the modeler I'm using to do the smoothing job, and, in regard to the thickness, the printer I'm using prints by excreting a hardener onto a plastic powder, and while highly accurate, it's rather weak. I also have to do some sort of refinement after printing as per the requirements of the project.

Also, has anyone made a HAZOP helm before? Having trouble with the sizing...

TheUX31EGuy · Apr 21, 2015

toomtoomX said:
Unfortunately, this is the only format that fits in the print bed

I don't really trust the modeler I'm using to do the smoothing job, and, in regard to the thickness, the printer I'm using prints by excreting a hardener onto a plastic powder, and while highly accurate, it's rather weak. I also have to do some sort of refinement after printing as per the requirements of the project.

Also, has anyone made a HAZOP helm before? Having trouble with the sizing...

Gotcha, that makes sense. So I'm assuming you'd end up gluing the printed pieces together? For the scaling part, refer to this guide by HaloGoddess: http://www.405th.com/f19/halogoddess-how-scale-more-tutorial-31627/

toomtoomX · Apr 21, 2015

TheUX31EGuy said:
Gotcha, that makes sense. So I'm assuming you'd end up gluing the printed pieces together? For the scaling part, refer to this guide by HaloGoddess: http://www.405th.com/f19/halogoddess-how-scale-more-tutorial-31627/

Yup yup, thats the plan, at least.

I used that guide to scale it originally, but, after printing a bottom view of the helm and cutting the center out on a hunch, I found that it was too small for my head to fit through by an entire 2 and a half inches on top of the added 1-2 inches for padding...

TheUX31EGuy · Apr 21, 2015

toomtoomX said:
Yup yup, thats the plan, at least.

I used that guide to scale it originally, but, after printing a bottom view of the helm and cutting the center out on a hunch, I found that it was too small for my head to fit through by an entire 2 and a half inches on top of the added 1-2 inches for padding...

Hmmmm... I understand that there has to be thickness to the helmet's walls, but is 1-2 inches absolutely necessary? I mean, if you use eighth inch foam or sponge neoprene, you shouldn't have to use more than one or two layers of it. I'd scale the helmet up just a hair. Depends, how long would it take to print out all the sections of the helmet? Also, what are the dimensions of the model, like HxWxD in MM or inches.

toomtoomX · Apr 21, 2015

TheUX31EGuy said:
Hmmmm... I understand that there has to be thickness to the helmet's walls, but is 1-2 inches absolutely necessary? I mean, if you use eighth inch foam or sponge neoprene, you shouldn't have to use more than one or two layers of it. I'd scale the helmet up just a hair. Depends, how long would it take to print out all the sections of the helmet? Also, what are the dimensions of the model, like HxWxD in MM or inches.

My apologies, I was speaking in terms of from my head measurement. The 1-2 inches was in before the scale up, but that was aabsorbed when I scaled the opening to fit my head. The thickness of the walls themselves is somewhere around the. 25 to .30 inch range.

1 to 1 and a half days per part, so 8 to 12 days to print (I'm assuming).

It's WxDxH = 13.2 in X 14.0 in X 13.5 in (latest sizing) I believe, not at the computer right now but I'll check next time I get a chance. This size does worry me, as it seems way too large, but is the minimum for my 241 mm in height head to fit in the opening

TheUX31EGuy · Apr 21, 2015

toomtoomX said:
My apologies, I was speaking in terms of from my head measurement. The 1-2 inches was in before the scale up, but that was aabsorbed when I scaled the opening to fit my head. The thickness of the walls themselves is somewhere around the. 25 to .30 inch range.

1 to 1 and a half days per part, so 8 to 12 days to print (I'm assuming).

It's WxDxH = 13.2 in X 14.0 in X 13.5 in (latest sizing) I believe, not at the computer right now but I'll check next time I get a chance. This size does worry me, as it seems way too large, but is the minimum for my 241 mm in height head to fit in the opening

It's all good. quarter inch to a little over quarter inch sounds good. Are you measuring your head, chin to base of skull or ear to ear? Well, It's better to end up with something too big than to have something too small. Is there a neck seal on your model? If so, I'd recommend you get rid of it.

toomtoomX · Apr 21, 2015

TheUX31EGuy said:
It's all good. quarter inch to a little over quarter inch sounds good. Are you measuring your head, chin to base of skull or ear to ear? Well, It's better to end up with something too big than to have something too small. Is there a neck seal on your model? If so, I'd recommend you get rid of it.

The 241 mm is chin to skull, but it's sized now so that it's using ear to ear. I made a cutout of the bottom view so that it slips over my head, then added the amount I opened the opening to the depth so that I know it'll fit on my head at the least. Also, this model doesn't have the neck seal the in game one has, so that's a negative on that.

TheUX31EGuy · Apr 21, 2015

toomtoomX said:
The 241 mm is chin to skull, but it's sized now so that it's using ear to ear. I made a cutout of the bottom view so that it slips over my head, then added the amount I opened the opening to the depth so that I know it'll fit on my head at the least. Also, this model doesn't have the neck seal the in game one has, so that's a negative on that.

Sounds good. Generally, I use the ear to ear scaling method. That works well for me. And, before someone else asks, PLEASE POST PICS OF YOUR HELMET!!!!!!111!!

toomtoomX · Apr 21, 2015

TheUX31EGuy said:
Sounds good. Generally, I use the ear to ear scaling method. That works well for me. And, before someone else asks, PLEASE POST PICS OF YOUR HELMET!!!!!!111!!

Hehehe, don't worry, I'll be sure to post all the progress I can!

TheUX31EGuy · Apr 21, 2015

toomtoomX said:
Hehehe, don't worry, I'll be sure to post all the progress I can!

Good, I can't wait to see how this turns out!

toomtoomX · Apr 23, 2015

Ok, so, I've changed the size of the helmet again, as well as upped the part count from 8 to 10/12. The increase in parts is so that I can remove a part of the lower section of the helmet to increase the head opening when putting it on, then reattach the piece using powerful magnets.

toomtoomX · May 14, 2015

progress!!!!!!

toomtoomX · May 22, 2015

So, I just had a real "Well I messed up" moment..... Compare the two images:

Now I know why I had the feeling that something was wrong with the CBRN Attachment.... well, not really anything I can do about it now.

Chernobyl · May 22, 2015

I was very surprised to see that you're printing out the additional pieces as integrated into the helmet as opposed to separately - that may have resolved some issues.

If you ever need an absolute reference for the file, there are game-ripped models in the Archive for you to use in order to cross-reference for accuracy.

toomtoomX · May 22, 2015

Chernobyl said:
I was very surprised to see that you're printing out the additional pieces as integrated into the helmet as opposed to separately - that may have resolved some issues.

If you ever need an absolute reference for the file, there are game-ripped models in the Archive for you to use in order to cross-reference for accuracy.

To be honest, it was a toss up between doing that and printing as a whole, and I'm not quite sure why I went with the latter...
Ironically, I used the files of the CBRN and HUL attachments from the archives, but upon importing them into blender:
1.) both attachments were orientated awkwardly,
and
2.) I didn't use a reference image
But, as I've already printed 3/4ths of the helmet out, I cant really do much about it now

toomtoomX · May 31, 2015

[UPDATE] 3D Printing a Reach HAZOP Helmet

Alright, so I have now printed all of the sub-parts and glued them together to create the 3 main parts of the helmet. My dad and I have decided that it will be best to keep the helmet in these 3 main parts rather than 2. So, here are some pics of the dry fit:

Lemme know what you think!

3D Printing a Reach HAZOP Helmet

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